Plants still dwarf and same deficiencies for a year (auto and photos) – water/pH/irrigation problem?

As others have pointed out, pH first. Get a pH-Down product, a syringe and a pH meter. When your pH is wrong, your plants simply cannot access the nutrients in the soil. CalMag: Your water provider report lists no Calcium (Ca) or Magnesium (Mg), most important to answer your question. Can you find a way to obtain this info? You want to try to keep at least a 3:2 ratio of Ca:Mg. If this is not properly maintained, your plants again cannot access the nutrients you put in your soil. Mg or Ca will bind to all sites and other nutrients will form salts / gypsum.

pH 7.7 is the root of all your problems.

97-99% of absorbed water is released into the atmosphere through transpiration, the small percentage retained is vital for cell structure, and the water used in photosynthesis is a direct ingredient in creating new plant material. Water is the universal solvent used for nutrient delivery and cooling, it is a critical, direct reactant in the process of photosynthesis, but 97% of that is cooling not growth. The amount of growth that occurs depends on the amount of energy available. How much energy is available is determined by how well you optimize the 9. A fundamental principle of biology, governing everything from individual cellular growth to entire ecosystems. Plant growth is fundamentally driven by the available energy—primarily light—that is converted into chemical energy via photosynthesis. The total growth and yield depend on how well you can optimize these nine key environmental parameters, often referred to as the 9 Cardinal Parameters of Plant Science, which influence the efficiency of this energy conversion. Plant development is a complex, interconnected system where environmental factors act as limiting agents on metabolic processes, (ATP). If any of these factors are bottlenecked, the entire metabolic chain, will slow down to the rate of the most limiting factor, a concept known as the law of limiting factors. NPK and all the Macros and Micros consist of only 6% of dry plant matter after 100% of water is removed, think about that for a second. The other 94% consists of Carbon, Oxygen and Hydrogen. All sugars (saccharides) and carbohydrates are organic compounds composed primarily of carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). Good luck in your quest for fat nuggy autos!

If you have bad tapwater, check out the aquarist product called "seachem" in my experience it's the best water conditioner on the market. Corrects even the worst tapwater.

Well cal mag is essential. It looks like your plants are cal mag deficient and chlorine toxicity. They look similar. Calcium is literally the basis of plant cell walls which is leaves, stems and buds. Get a water filter or boil your water and cool it. Give your plants all of the nutrients they need. Especially calcium and magnesium

¡Hola BunnyBud! El análisis del agua del grifo. He revisado todo con detalle para entender por qué tus plantas (tanto autos como fotos) se quedan enanas y siguen mostrando las mismas deficiencias año tras año. Parece que el problema principal podría estar en el agua, el pH/riego y posiblemente en la nutrición ajustada a tus condiciones específicas. Vamos a desglosarlo paso a paso y te doy una dieta óptima basada en los productos que usas (BioBizz Light Mix, Bio-Cultivo, Bio-Floración, Calmag, Micro Vita, Mezcla de Pescado, Limón Superior y tus lámparas SF1000/SF1000D). Me baso en las fichas técnicas de BioBizz y en ajustes para autos en interior, considerando tu agua. 1. Análisis del agua del grifo Tu análisis muestra que el agua es potable y limpia (bajos niveles de contaminantes, bacterias en 0, TOC bajo, etc.), lo cual es genial porque no hay tóxicos como cloro alto (2.5 mg/L, bien por debajo del límite) o metales pesados. Sin embargo: pH: 7.7 Esto es alto para cultivo en suelo orgánico como BioBizz Light Mix. El óptimo es 6.2-6.5 para que las raíces absorban bien los nutrientes. Un pH alto bloquea hierro, manganeso, zinc y otros micros, lo que causa deficiencias (hojas amarillas, crecimiento lento). Los nutrientes BioBizz bajan un poco el pH naturalmente, pero no lo suficiente con tu agua base. Conductividad (EC): 363 µS/cm (0.36 mS/cm)** – Baja, lo que indica agua blanda (alrededor de 180 PPM TDS). Es buena porque no acumula sales, pero probablemente baja en calcio (Ca) y magnesio (Mg) – no se miden directamente en tu análisis, pero con EC tan bajo, es común que estén por debajo de 20-30 mg/L Ca y 10 mg/L Mg. Esto explica deficiencias de Ca/Mg (manchas, hojas retorcidas), sobre todo porque mencionas que nunca usaste Calmag. - Otros clave: Nitrato bajo (0.86-1.2 mg/L), amonio

i guess underwatered (especially during stretch) and underfed. if you can tune the spectrum of your light try more red/less blue or less light intensity/more distance.

At first your light is too close. It miniaturizes your plants. Then Low Stress Training. This manifolding technic is meant to keep the plant low to spread horizontally instead like a typical Xmas shape growing vertically. Next, is the life cycle, auto’s have a short life cycle, not long enough when being manifold. And photoperiodic plants being topped and manifold requires a longer Vegetative period.