Is she dying on the stem ?

Garys_Mod_Green
Garys_Mod_Greenstarted grow question 5mo ago
Is my plant dying on the stem? She was yellow and people said oh that happens during flower but now im seeing leaf curling and browning is this an emergency?
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 5mo ago
That much is beyond senescence. But, the time to do something was when the symptoms were progressing. There's no healing necrotic plant tissue. The red color can be ignored, unless you unintentionally allowed temperatures to drop below 18c / 64F. Low temps will exaggerate "Fall" colors. Plant biology struggles at colder temperatures. Sometimes the Fall colors just happen due to genetics even if temperatures remain in a good range. Your dairy week from "19 days ago" shows some potential N-deficiency and start of Ca deficiency, i'd wager. Leaf symptoms are indiscrete, so you typically need more information to be confident. These 2 are a bit more obvious than others, but that doesn't mean it wasn't lockout of some sort.. usually lockout has symptoms that are confusing or a smorgasborg of issues... always need to cross-reference more info to diagnose properly and can still be wrong at times. Week 2 also shows likely bad watering habits, which over time can definitely contriubte to problems later on even if it doesn't cause a problem initially. Hard to say if 5-3-2 is a good ratio as your soil contents are a guess and possibly exhausted late in flower anyway. On its own, 5-3-2 is not a good ratio. if not using readily plant-available N upon dilution, 2-1-2 is a better ratio and late in flower you want less N. What 'should be' is all fine and good but always react to the plant in front of you regardless of what 'should be.' A deficiency or toxicity simply needs to be counteracted, regardless. Lockout needs to be remedied. The plant definitely shouldn't be near-dead or have a decimated canopy before the flower ripens. that's not senescence. that's senescence exaggerated by not providing nutrients to the plant. If you use the same products, soil and keep track of your fertilization over time, you can review, adjust and do better next time. Anytime you change the soil, you'll have a new learning curve, but it gets easier each time. Fertilizer brand won't matter much, but whether it's for soil or soilless/hydro does make a difference.
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squalino
squalinoanswered grow question 5mo ago
Hey there. Sorry, the response is going to be long. Indeed, this is not a very good sign. I'll try to explain it as best as I can. I understand your concern. Your plant is not "dying" in the immediate literal sense, but it is in critical distress; it's extremely urgent to act to save your harvest. We are well beyond "normal senescence." This is a massive deficiency and severe nutrient lockout. Here’s the diagnosis and emergency action plan: 1. The Diagnosis: Complex deficiency and lockout Looking at your photos, especially image_8.png and image_4.png, we see several combined issues: Rapid senescence: Your main buds (image_8.png) are almost "cooked." They are brown, dry, and the leaves are curling. This is a sign that the plant can no longer hydrate or nourish itself properly. Advanced Phosphorus (P) & Potassium (K) deficiency: The yellow/brown color and the curling leaves are typical of a glaring lack of P and K during bud swelling. Zinc/Iron lockout: The bright yellow leaves at the top (image_5.png and image_6.png) with still green veins and rust spots indicate a blockage of these micronutrients, often due to a completely unbalanced soil pH. 2. The Emergency Plan (Starting now) If you do nothing, your buds will finish drying on the plant and become unfit for consumption. Step 1: Immediate corrective flushing. You need to "wash" your soil. Use pure water (without nutrients), ideally tap water left to sit for 24 hours, and make sure to adjust its pH to 6.2-6.5. Water generously until 20-30% of the water drains from the pot. This will flush out the accumulated salts that are blocking the roots and restore a healthy pH. Step 2: Check the humidity. With such dry buds at the top but generally moist at the bottom, the risk of mold (Botrytis) is immense. Make sure your extractor is running at full speed and that your oscillating fan is blowing directly on the buds. Step 3: Adjust the light. If your light is too strong, it will "burn" the dry buds. Move it slightly further away or reduce its intensity to 50-60%. Step 4 (Next watering, in 2-3 days): DO NOT use "Grow" nutrients. If you have 1 or 2 weeks left before harvest, only water with pure, pH-adjusted water. If you still have more than 3 weeks, prepare a very light mix (1/4 of the dose) of a flowering booster (like PK 13/14) with your pH-adjusted water. My verdict: Your main buds are severely affected. The goal is no longer to have a record harvest, but to limit the damage. By flushing now and stabilizing the pH, you will allow the lower buds to finish maturing properly. Above all, inspect your brown buds at the core to check for any gray mold inside! I hope I was able to help you. Have a great day.
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Green_Claws
Green_Clawsanswered grow question 5mo ago
Fried weed anyone.. No seariosly that's well over fed with too strong a light or you have sprayed with something.. Probly when lights are on.. You can over feed in living soil its easy too I fact, not knowing what is in the soil then adding more is having loads of one mineral and not enough of another..you use a nutrient line that is all. Not living soil u till it's colanised with microbes so I recomend a microbe inoculant like mammoth p... Sorry not looked at your diary but can see some1 mention npk values, not in my living soil thanks.. Look after the soil and she will do the rest. Salts will only kill off the microbes that are doing the heavy lifting.. Good luck.
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Nocone_Purple
Nocone_Purpleanswered grow question 5mo ago
That’s more than normal fade the heavy yellowing, curling, and browning suggests serious nutrient deficiency or lockout (likely high/low pH or salt buildup), so yes, act now with a flush and reset your feeding
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JUNGLE_B4RNS
JUNGLE_B4RNSanswered grow question 5mo ago
It’s called the senescence…. It’s normal… it’s part of the end of its life cycle.
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GoodWeedBerlin
GoodWeedBerlinanswered grow question 5mo ago
As you grow in living soil, I would not look at over-/underfeeding or lockout at first. Is it possible that this is wind damage from the vent? The vent looks huge and close. Even if it is oscillating, that might be too much for the plant. It is called wind-burn.
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Domenik
Domenikanswered grow question 5mo ago
Do you give her still nutriends? If you do so, you might have a lockout. Did you check trichomes to estimate how long they need from now?
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