Heat stress or defiencey? Happy420 yall!

So, I am not a 100% but: likely culprits I see are some potential light burn (the colors you described + medium cupping, maybe recovering?), Phosphorous deficiency (explains the rest of the coloration / petioles / rusti-ness) or trouble accessing P (because there might be too much other stuff in there). As for the foliage - see if you can pull the big colas sideways a bit still, that should open up her canopy. She is in a bit too deep for lollipopping. Cut out leaves from the bottom (but not all at once) to make sure there is no chance for infection / stagnant air pockets maintaining a climate for unwanted visitors.

Yes, that sounds like light stress raising the light was the right move, and the pale top leaves should stabilize in week 8 only do very light defoliation (just a few leaves blocking buds), nothing heavy

Organo, my boy... Didn,t u know that Ca excess leads to Mg lock ??? tch tch tch ?

Hi. Your observations are very relevant. By dimming your lamp, you have probably exceeded the tolerance threshold of your plants, which caused this color change. ​Here is the analysis of the situation for your plants in week 8: ​1. Light Stress and Chlorosis ​Symptoms: The fact that the upper leaves turn light green, or even yellowish, while the rest of the plant remains darker is a classic sign of light stress or "bleaching". ​Reaction: You had the good instinct to reassemble the lamp. At this stage, the plant needs all of its photosynthetic capacity to swell the buds; light stress can slow down this process. ​Recovery: Once the lamp is reassembled, watch to see if the yellowing stops. Leaves already affected may not turn completely green again, but new ones should not be impacted. ​2. Defoliation in Week 8? ​Timing: Week 8 is an advanced flowering phase where the plant is very dense. ​The approach: Massive defoliation would be a bad idea because it could cause too much stress and slow down final maturation. ​The Solution (Selective Pruning): Instead of complete defoliation, remove only those leaves that directly hide the main bud sites or those that are yellowed/damaged at the top. The objective is to promote air circulation to avoid mold (botrytis) without depriving the plant of its essential "solar panels". ​3. Tips for the end of flowering ​Air circulation: Given the density of your foliage, make sure your fans circulate the air above and through the canopy to avoid pockets of humidity. ​Stability: At this stage, avoid any sudden changes (nutrients, light intensity, temperature). ​In summary: You did well to reassemble your lamp. For the leaves, stick to very light and targeted cleaning to let the buds breathe without rushing the plant as harvest approaches. I hope I was able to help you. Have a good day

To me, it looks more like a magnesium deficiency than anything else. A pH of 7.0 could be a contributing factor................something closer to 6.4 would be better for soil grows.

Yep, i,ve checked ur CalMagXTRA, it has 3.2% Ca, so if u don,t use Ro water for ur solution it,s definately Ca excess wich locking other salts UW 😎

There,s problem with ur feed Either it,s deficiency or lockout Depends on what, how much and how often My guess it,s lock due to excess of Ca or K

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