Autos will show sex much earlier than a photoperiod, in most cases. So, if you see preflowers at nodes in the first 2-4 weeks of life, it's probably an autoflower. Seems like an odd context not to know. Autoflowers take a particular breeding process, so if that's a random seed, it's most likely a photoperiod.
possibly some issues with irrigation, or a bit too much light -- can use a little common sense to eliminate one or the other. possibly both, who knows. Time will tell.
If node spacing is healthy, it's not the light causing a slightly droopy plant. Probably irrigation practices due to having small plants in large pots. Even with autoflowers, despite common belief in the peanut gallery, should be potted up over time. I've never seen a plant get shocked from gently placing it into a larger pot and gently covering with more medium. Not the end of the world. Just make sure when you water a smaller area around the plant, get that moisture deep. You want roots growing downward toward greater moisture not upward due to superficial watering. Water an area about as wide as the canopy. Get it wet all the way down to the bottom with some runoff.
for soilless, runoff is really important to maintaining levels of nutrition in medium. When you hhave a large pot / tiny plant and doing weird irrigation, runoff isn't carrying out its function as effectively as it should. It should be impossible to get buildup over time with runoff, but in this context there's zones of medium ebbing and flowing with moisture and depositing solutes that will just go back into solution later as the moisture comes back, which can lead to some imbalance of nutrients in those boundaries. Short-term is not much of a problem, but long-term is. Once you get to full irrigations of entire pot, give a little extra runoff for an irrigation or two. Nothing crazy. mybe 20% runoff instead of 10%.
check out dr photon's corner of cocoforcannabis.com. Their other guides and articles are good too. Soilless growing is the "easy button." Adhere to certain best practices, and the rest is simply adjusting your formula to provide a consistent diet relative to stage of life.
irrigation:
1) fertigate every time with a minimum 10% runoff. Runoff is essential, don't scoff at it :P
2) wait for appropriate dryback, then repeat.
It's simple. Don't make it complicated..The volume of water required will be consistent if you wait for a similar dryback (loss of weight). With coco, a safe wet-dry cycle is waiting for the top layer to start to change color. Feeling the weight is probably a better way to do it, imo.
In the future, you want a coco:perlite 2:1 ratio... there are other options than perlite, but don't use big chunky stuff that makes roots work harder and doesn't distribute as well. coarse vermiculite and #2 perlite are better options for gas:water mixture in rootzone. Small potatoes but worth doing right since it takes no added effort.. If you ever use a heavier medium like sphagnum peat moss, the ratio is 1:1 because it holds more water per volume. In the end, bot have a similar gas:water mix, which is the goal.
I'd also suggest tracking ppm of each nutritional element you provide over time. It helps diagnose. It helps to have that info to adjust what you do next time to avoid any bumps in the road. A good formula can work well on 90-95% of plants, and even the oddballs can be mostly fine.
mimic jack's 3 part hydro setup (Part A, caclium nitrate and epsom salt). Brand is almost entirely irrelvant when it comes to 'hydro' fertilizer. You can trust the gauranteed analysis labels. Potential ingredient pool is significantly reduced - only 100% soluble / 100% plant-ready ingredients. buy dry fertilizer in bulk once you settle on something... it becomes one of your smallest expenses.
you can have good outcomes day 1 ... soilless is that easy.