Hunger necrosis?

durac187
durac187started grow question 2mo ago
Please tell me how to be in my situation, how to put the plant in order. the last time I fed Palagron alga grow, I diluted it to 7 liters. the input is up to 400 ppm. 30-40 milliliters leaked out of 7 liters. the output is 300 ppm. question: can I remove the empty leaves and thos
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cangrowz
cangrowzanswered grow question 2mo ago
Hey durac187! Your PPM numbers (400 in, 300 out) definitely confirm your hunch: your plant is hungry. She's actually eating more than you're giving her, which is why she's pulling mobile nutrients from the older leaves to support the new growth. That's why the bottom leaves are yellowing and dying off. To get her back in order, you should gradually increase your nutrient strength. 400 PPM is a bit low for a plant that size in the vegetative stage; try bumping it up to around 600-700 PPM for the next feeding and see how she reacts. Regarding your question about the leaves: Yes, you can remove the leaves that are more than 50% yellow or crispy. They aren't doing much for the plant anymore. Just don't go overboard and strip the whole plant only take the ones that are clearly "empty" and dead. Once you up the feed and get those dead leaves out of the way, you'll have better airflow and the new growth should stay nice and green. Happy Growing, Growmie!
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Zion309
Zion309answered grow question 2mo ago
What you did is actually the right approach. The key idea is to first restore stability and let healthy new growth come in before removing anything. During recovery, even damaged-looking leaves still play a role in keeping enough energy production going. That helps the plant push through the stress phase. Once the plant is clearly back in healthy growth and everything is running stable again, removing the remaining weak or unhealthy leaves makes sense. At that point, they are no longer contributing much and can even become a drain on efficiency. So the important sequence is: first recovery, then cleanup — not the other way around. That’s exactly what you followed, and it’s one of the most reliable ways to bring a stressed plant back into balance.
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Mexicanasseeds
Mexicanasseedsanswered grow question 2mo ago
Lo que estás viendo en tu planta no es precisamente necrosis por hambre, sino un problema de eficiencia lumínica y gestión de energía. ​Tienes un dosel extremadamente denso. El problema es que cuando las hojas se enciman tanto, las que quedan abajo dejan de producir energía y empiezan a consumirla solo para mantenerse vivas; se vuelven parásitos de la planta. Ese gasto de energía y nutrientes es el que debería irse a tus brotes nuevos. ​Aquí te paso lo que tienes que hacer para ponerla en orden: ​Defoliación selectiva (Poda de hojas): No le tengas miedo, en este caso es más que necesaria. Quita las hojas más grandes que están tapando la luz a los brotes de abajo. Tienes tanta área verde que la planta ni va a sentir la falta de esas hojas; al contrario, le vas a quitar un peso de encima. ​Luz directa a los brotes: En cuanto la luz le pegue directo a esas ramitas que hoy están en la sombra, vas a notar que crecen con mucho más vigor. La planta va a dejar de desperdiciar energía en mantener hojas encimadas y la va a mandar a los puntos de crecimiento. ​Circulación de aire: Con tanta hoja junta, el aire no corre y la planta no puede transpirar bien. Al podar, el aire va a fluir mejor y eso acelera el metabolismo. ​Sobre tus números (PPM): Que entren 400 y salgan 300 ppm significa que la planta sí está comiendo, pero está lenta. En cuanto hagas la poda y la luz active más puntos de la planta, vas a ver que empezará a comer más porque su metabolismo se va a "despertar". ​En resumen: Sí puedes (y debes) quitar esas hojas que no están haciendo fotosíntesis de manera óptima. Vas a ver que en lugar de estresarse, la planta te lo va a agradecer creciendo más fuerte.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2mo ago
P deficiency - the blue hue in the leaf of pic #4 and 5 along with dark spots pic #2 looks like K-deficiency. Possibly something locking both out... based on "400ppm input" mor likely just needing more, i guess... overall concentration is a bit lacking in resolution.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 2mo ago
Upvote for Green_Claws!
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Green_Claws
Green_Clawsanswered grow question 2mo ago
Squalino you should have your points removed for AI intigration, have you noticed that all your answers agree with a promlem telling the grower they are doing a good job and then justify it with other nonsense.. STOP spreading this poison
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Nocone_Purple
Nocone_Purpleanswered grow question 2mo ago
Yes, you can remove the fully yellow/dead leaves, but the main issue looks like potassium deficiency or slight lockout, so focus on proper feeding and pH first, not just defoliation
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 2mo ago
Bhahaha 🤣👇 Rly 🤥🙈🙉🙊 I feed my parsley with 600 ppm and u,r giving 400 to this...
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squalino
squalinoanswered grow question 2mo ago
hello my friend I'm happy It's great that you kept your watering at 7 liters with 400 ppm. Your readings (400 ppm input / 300 ppm output) are excellent: this proves that the plant is consuming its nutrients well and that there is no accumulation of toxic salts in the pot. ​Here's how to "get your plant back in order" and my answer for defoliation: ​1. Can I remove empty or damaged sheets? ​Yes, but with precision. * Yellow/dead leaves: You can without hesitation remove the lower leaves which are completely yellow or dry. They are no longer used for photosynthesis and block air circulation. ​Strategic defoliation: Your plant is very dense in the center. You should remove some large fan leaves that hide the bud sites inside the structure. This will allow the light to penetrate deeper. ​Golden rule: Do not remove more than 10 to 15% of the total foliage at one time to avoid stressing the plant. ​2. Analysis of “Crisping” (Top leaves) ​Some upper leaves still show tips that are curling and turning brown. ​Since your PPMs are perfect (400 in / 300 out), it's not fertilizer burn. ​It is most likely environmental stress (heat or too strong light intensity in this specific location). Make sure your fan circulates the air well between the lamp and the top of the plant. ​3. Root condition and hydration ​The fact that you only have 30-40 ml of drainage for 7 liters poured shows that the plant drinks a lot. ​Advice: Stick to this volume of 7 liters. If the plant continues to drink so quickly, you might even need to water a little more often, but keep that dosage to 400 ppm. She seems stabilized and vigorous now. ​My recommendation to “put it back in order”: ​Cleaning: Remove the most damaged leaves and those that touch the ground. ​Aeration: Remove a few leaves in the center to “open” the plant to the light. Stability: Don't change anything in your nutrient soup for now (400 ppm is your "sweet spot"). ​In summary: Your plant is no longer in danger, it is just very greedy and a little tight in its foliage. A little cleaning will do it a lot of good to begin the rest of the flowering.. have nice day
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