What is wrong

CY-GENETICS
CY-GENETICSstarted grow question 22d ago
Week 7 autos from week 5 the leaves started to yellow and brown spots at first i thought i was feeding too little at week 6 i upped the nutrients, kept on getting worst around 50-60 rh now going lower to 50-55% 400w led have it about 70-80% lately the temps been a bit higher 28
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Leaves. Color - Pale
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
Leaves. Color - Mottling
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LetsGrowSome
LetsGrowSomeanswered grow question 22d ago
Hey Gromie, You've had issues before week 5. You can see at week 3 they were already lacking a bit of nitrogen. Dont think it is because of under feeding. At week 2 one plant shows possible calcium issue. Appears like your ph drifted. You didnt feel the pots all the way up with soil which can leave a humidity bowl under the plant which can cause transpiration issues.. The plants had issues before it flipped to flower. Think of first few weeks of flower to be like a teenager. It eats a lot! But if your ph is off or your watering habits are wrong, or your nutrients are off, it cant eat like it wants to and changes occur more rapidly. You show you are watering all the same specified amount. Thats not correct. You fully saturate each pot by how much it needs and then wait for proper dry back. I agree with Organoman in its too late to fix anything from here. Maybe can slow it down. Dont sweat it. You will still make it to the end, maybe wont be top shelf you want, but still usable. Just learn as you go in growing. Mistakes make you a better grower as long as you learn from them and adjust for it the next time. Anyone growing top shelf plants on their first grow, imo isnt really their first grow. It takes time to learn everything. Ive only been growing a little over 3yrs and im still learning every grow. Write down everything you do and monitor the plants. Make note of when things happen and go back to see what you did before. Not just nutes. How much you water, light intensity and height. Humidty and temp each day. If you hit a snag, water a little extra to get runoff to see ph and ec. See what you are facing before just throwing stuff at it to try to fix. Also have more than 1 ph pen to compare. They are known to fail at some point and can get you running down a rabbit hole. You'll learn more that way than asking a site for help. Just my thoughts, Best of luck! Happy Growing!
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JUNGLE_B4RNS
JUNGLE_B4RNSanswered grow question 22d ago
It’s the natural process of a plant that haven’t been over fertilized during its life cycle. The plant moves its own nutrients for the flowers…
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Ultraviolet_
Ultraviolet_answered grow question 22d ago
50% 60% rh daytime goes to 60- 70% nighttime. =very litte pot evaporation, very little respiration, moisture retention, creates lack of oxygen.
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Philhsy
Philhsyanswered grow question 22d ago
Week 7 autos started yellowing and getting brown spots around week 5. Increasing nutrients in week 6 made it worse, likely due to nutrient lockout, salt buildup, heat, or light stress rather than underfeeding. Temps around 28°C and strong LED intensity probably increased stress. Solution: Lower nutrient strength slightly, check runoff pH/EC, keep soil pH around 6.2–6.5, reduce light stress a bit, keep temps closer to 24–26°C, and only add light CalMag if using soft water. Some fading is normal this late in flower, so focus on stability and finishing strong. 💚🌱
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cangrowz
cangrowzanswered grow question 22d ago
Hey Growmie, I see you're dealing with some frustrating leaf issues on your week 7 autos. Based on what you described, upping the nutrients when the yellowing and brown spots first appeared actually made things worse, which points directly to nutrient burn and a potential pH lockout rather than a deficiency. When the soil pH drifts out of the optimal range (typically 6.0-6.5 for soil), the plant can't absorb key mobile elements like magnesium or calcium, causing those classic brown spots and yellowing leaves. Adding more food into a locked-out root zone just increases the salt buildup, compounding the stress. Your temperatures hitting 28°C under that 400W LED are also pushing the plant's transpiration to the limit, especially with the humidity dropping down to 50-55%, which accelerates how fast the plant sucks up water and concentrated salts. To fix this and save the remainder of your flower cycle, your best move right now is to flush the growing medium with plain, pH-balanced water (around 6.2-6.5) to wash out those excess built-up mineral salts. Check the pH and PPM of the runoff water if you can, as that will tell you exactly what's happening in the root zone. Once you've flushed it through, pause the heavy feeding and only introduce a very light, balanced nutrient solution on the following waterings, making sure your pH stays locked in. Keep your light dimmed slightly or back it off a bit until the plant stabilizes from the heat and salt stress. Happy Growing Growmie🌱
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 22d ago
Multiple issues. Nutrient deficiencies (nitrogen and phosphorous particularly), likely pH issues, unnecessary amount of defoliation, poor watering habits etc. etc. No way to fix anything now. Next grow look at doing a whole lot more research into growing cannabis before planting any seeds.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 23d ago
At the least it has a nitrogen deficiency.... exacerbated by the defoliation leaving less room for error. Keep the leaves, next time. They are important organs. Paling tip-in and bottom-up on the plant is distinctly realted to nitrogen... other symptoms are less discrete on average. MAybe somethign else with the crispy leaves higher up on the one plant, but the pictures are too far away to see the symptoms.
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