Can you help me? This is my first autoflower, a Tr...

At week 5 flower some yellowing is normal as the plant pulls nitrogen down to the buds. But if it’s aggressive, it could be a few things: Gaia Green is solid but sometimes needs a calmag boost in flower. Check your pH if it’s off, nutrients lock up. Heat can speed up fade too. Try: add a light calmag dose, verify your pH is 6.2-6.8 (soil), and make sure temps aren’t above 28°C. If new growth coming in is green, it’s just natural fade. If it keeps spreading to new growth, dial in calmag and pH.

yellow up top with thin blades - probably slightly too much light for an extended period of time. too much p/k can do similar, but this looks light related.

Hey there! First off, beautiful plant Tropicana Cookies is a fantastic choice for your first autoflower! At week 5 of flowering, it is completely normal to see some gradual yellowing, especially on the older, lower leaves as the plant naturally starts redirecting its energy and nitrogen toward packing on weight and resin in the buds. Looking at your photo, the overall canopy still looks fairly healthy and vibrant. However, since you're using Gaia Green dry amendments, keep in mind that they are organic and take about 1 to 2 weeks to break down in the soil and become available to the plant. If the yellowing is moving up rapidly or starting from the top down, it might not just be natural fading. Heat stress usually shows up as canoe-shaped, curling leaf edges, which doesn't seem to be the main issue here. A slight pH lockout or a mild nutrient depletion (like a need for a little extra calcium/magnesium or a light top-dress of Power Bloom) is more likely if you haven't amended the soil in the last few weeks. I'd recommend checking your runoff pH to ensure it's sitting comfortably between 6.0 and 6.5, and maybe giving them a light organic cal-mag tea if you suspect a lockout. Keep an eye on how it progresses, but you're doing great so far. Happy Growing Growmie🌱

Same old same old, using organic nutes requires A LOT more oxygen, I'd guess your medium is oversaturated, tips look to have high EC. If pH is high (alkaline) its drifting from too much nitrogen ratio in the medium, a nutrient can present against its mobility if it's antagonized, causing symptoms all over. If pH is low (acidic), it's from oxygen deprivation in the rootzones. Leaf shape and size tell me she is under very high lighting DLI, possibly too much. Stems also look reddish, which reinforces the oxydeprivation. Make sure the medium temp is between 68-72°F. Any deviation above 72F will cause oxygen depletion. When oxygen is depleted in the root zone (hypoxia), a plant’s water uptake drops significantly. No water no diffusion. If oxygen is not present, all water uptake goes with it (95%). If water uptake drops significantly then root diffusion of oxygen into the medium also drops significantly. leads to a harmful feedback loop. When the medium becomes hypoxic (low oxygen), roots produce toxic anaerobic nasties like ethanol, which further damage their ability to absorb water and nutrients, ultimately leaving the plant at high risk of root rot or "drowning". Inadequate wet/dry cycle, too high RH% most likely overnight. Make nights a 45-50%, given she is in flower. No such thing as too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long, or vice versa, too little. A very big plant for an average pot requires more attention, without a large buffer zone, deficiencies can pop up very fast. The faster you "drive" growth, the easier it is to crash into deficiencies. Warm, wet (High RH) VPD tweaked days. (vpd 10x less effective at night as there is no transpirational pull. Without evaporation, then 100% of the water in the medium stays in the medium. At night, no water moves out of that pot as transpiration stops. Evaporation, transpiration and evapotranspiration, at night if you leave the RH% high as soon as the lights go out, that 60,70% RH will jump 10%+, soon as a plant in darkness sits at 70+% rh, it almost entirely closes its stomata, no gas exchange, if gas exchange goes there is no pressure build up and the roots can not diffuse oxygen in and out the medium. Transpirational pull is dictated by the plants and roots, but at night, all the water that is added to the tent does not come from the POT/medium; it comes from the air. Transpiration does not occur if at all. This puts 100% of the responsibility of water movement in the medium at night on evaporation, not transpiration. IF the ambient RH stays above 50%, then almost 0 evaporation will occur. Oxygen moves 10,000 times slower in soil compared to air, and 320,000 times slower in soil saturated above a point. Oxygen can very easily be locked out even if it's in abundance, its moviing so slow it cannot keep up with the metabolic demands placed on it. Gluck Shuks.

Hi, one thing I think could be causing the yellowish growth could be the light being a bit to intense. I have a cheese Auto growing at the moment that's stretched loads and was looking like yours is. Unfortunately I ran out of height so mine has just suffered terribly.