My first coco grow
martin53247started grow question 8d ago
My first coco grow hey i want to start jorney witch coco but i struggle last 4 weeks +- 4 days ago i put plants to new cocos from plagron premium and yesterday the get hesi tnt 3ml /l. canna mono trace mix 0.5ml/l.hesi powerzyme 2ml i call mag ec from 0.13 to 0.40 ph5.8
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GrowerMarioanswered grow question 8d ago
Hey man, looking at your plants and routine, there are a few things that need immediate fixing, especially since coco requires a different approach than soil
1 Coco is inert (needs food from day one): Unlike soil, coco has zero nutrients. However, because you just transplanted them 4 days ago into new Plagron coco, their roots are still in shock and trying to establish. Giving them heavy doses right after transplanting usually causes nutrient burn or root lock.
2 EC is way too low: You mentioned your EC went from 0.13 to 0.40. That is extremely low for coco! Coco acts like a sponge for elements like Calcium and Magnesium (CalMag). With an EC of 0.4, the coco itself is literally starving the plants and sucking out their minerals, which explains the severe yellowing (chlorosis) and mobile nutrient deficiencies we see on the lower/older leaves. For coco, your base nutrient EC should generally start around 1.0 – 1.2 minimum, even for younger plants, plus proper CalMag buffering.
3 pH is okay, but watch runoff: pH 5.8 is generally fine for coco, but make sure you are measuring the runoff pH and EC to see what's actually happening in the root zone.
What I would recommend doing:
Flush gently or adjust feed: Stop underfeeding them. You need to bump up your base nutrients and CalMag so the coco gets fully saturated and stops stealing minerals from the plant.
Flush gently or adjust feed: Stop underfeeding them. You need to bump up your base nutrients and CalMag so the coco gets fully saturated and stops stealing minerals from the plant.
CalMag is key in coco: Make sure you use a proper dose of CalMag every single watering in coco, because coco naturally binds to calcium and magnesium.
Don't panic about damaged leaves: Those heavily yellowed leaves probably won't recover, but once you fix your feed strength and EC, the new growth will stabilize.
Keep your head up, first coco runs can be tricky with the cation exchange capacity, but you'll dial it in! Good luck! 🌿💪
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 8d ago
These look severely under-nourished. Don't worry about it this time, but in future you also want 33% of volume to be perlite or similar (i'd recommend vermiculite). This will give a more optimal gas:water per volume and a healthier rootzone.
check out cocoforcannabis.com - guides, articles and dr. photon's corner, only. Always beware of forums and things like this questions section.. anecdote is always suspect.
Coco is irrelevant. It's soilless growing methods. That is all that matters.
1) always fertigate and religiously get 10% runoff or more -- this is waste water. Don't let it sit in its piss.
2) wait for appropriate dryback (water weight drunk by plant) and repeat.
The waste water can be used for plants in the eart, but not other potted plants. Or, just downt he drain / on the lawn etc...
You feed a well-balanced formula every time. The runoff eliminates buildup, which is why it is so essential to a properly run soilless growing method. This makes adjusting based on leaf symptoms 100% about fixing your formula and eliminates all sorts of fog of war potential of buildup and pH issues that result from buildup and selective feeding of the roots.
Check out germ week and week 7 in my 2026-1 diary (any one). That shows my vege and early flower formula. Mostly everything stays teh same but N drops a good chunk. I'd recommend anything that results in a similar concentration and ratio of nutes that Jacks 3-2-1 amounts to.
stick to 'hydro' type nutes... 100% soluble / 100% plant ready upon dissolution. It needs to be a full diet becuase coco provides nothing.
Coco only leaches nutes when it is buffered poorly. If you ever run into that, change brands of coco ASAP unless you think it's a one-off problem. I'd recommend just mixing some perlite or vermiculite into pro-mix bx or hp products over coco coir. Less concern with buffering and such.. greater consistency of products. Think they call it 'activ' something now, but new name but same products as before...find the equivalent to hp or bx. With sphagnum peat moss, you want 50% of volume perlite or similar. HP only comes in at 20-25% as packaged and BX less than that. At 50% it ends up being same aeration/oxygenation qualites of 33% added to coco coir. Cococ coir does not have an advantage in this regard unlike common beliefs.
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