Possibly. I'd recommend anything that results in a similar ratio and concentration of Jacks 3-2-1. You have some simple requirements for soiless/hydro growing and 1,000 ways to achieve it. 100% soluble - it all dissolves. 100% plants-available - the plant can take in the nutrients immediately upon dissolution Provide a full and complete diet at all times - no mad scientist adding this or that here or there. you may need a slightly different formula for seedlings vs veg vs flower, but nothing extravagent or wildly complicated. Fertigate everytime with a minimum 10% runoff. This is incredibly important. Any process that does not incorporate teh 10% runoff is basically taking the benefits of soilless growing and taking a massive shit upon it. might as well grow in soil at that point, lol. i may be exaggerating, but only slightly. Be religious about the 10% runoff. it avoids buildup and eliminates a whole plethora of potential problems... it makes diagnosing easier. A 'fix' for any problem related to nutrients is simply adjusting the formula used. J.R. Peters Jacks 3-2-1, megacrop, masterblend, crop salts, kosher salts, and several others all use a time-tested 3-part setup A 'hydro' based .. this will vary a bit between brands calcium nitrate - this is the same regardless, but you do see variation in concentrations 14-0-0 to 15.5-0-0 etc.. Magnesium Sulfate - aka epsom salt in these setups you don't need a 'calcum' product, because calcium nirate takes care of it. Whatever is available locally -- Whatever is cheaper is best. Buy in bulk and dry nutes if you stick to soilless growing. This stuff is compatable with hydro growing too. You can use it with normal soil growing, but you'd need to dose it differently to supplement what nutrients are in the soil already, but you may prefer something else if you switch back... but once you settle, buy in bulk and your fertilize will be 4 cents per gallon mixed. it'll become one of your lower cost expenses growing. I spend about 30-50/year for 2 grows totalling 65-70sq ft of canopy give or take -- similar to four 4x4 grows but probably slightly more than that.. Coco coir should be 2:1 ratio with perlite or similar. I'd recommend vermiculite because it also provides some Si. Plants don't need much Si and can avoid the often expensive Si products. 70/30 coco+perlite is often sold, and .that's certainly close enough and convenient. consider promix hp or bx or some other soilless / very lightly charged options. You get a bad batch of coco that isn't properly buffered and your plants suffer for a month or more or possibly even die from it. Learning to buffer coco yourself would also be beneficial. Some brands can be trusted more than others. If you do go with a spagnum peat moss base for soilless growing, just know the ratio is 1:1 for perlite or similar. It holds more water, so it needs a bit more.. in the end both coco and sphagnum peat moss mixed to these recommended ratios have roughly the same gas:water mix which is the goal each recommendation.. not a coincidence. that will be best for the roots. Unlike soil you control everything in regard to nutrition. Track what you feed.. either become familiar with weighted average percent of mass based on dose of each product and summed up or, calculate ppms and track those. both options are equivalents. You'll soon learn upper/lower limits and how to avoid 99.99% of problems with ease.. nutrient problems are incredibly foreign issues when you put in just a modicum of effort tracking it. If you want some ballpark PPMs to start with .. this is good for mature vege... may need a bit less for seedlings (just dilute slightly) and you almost certainly need to drop N to 100ppm or below in flower.. that will depend a lot on how you feed prior to that point, though. Feed heavy early, need less later on etc.. mature plant in vegetative phase: N 120-130 P 40-60 K 180+ Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100ish Some minimal adjustment relative to local variables is almost always necessary. This is less than 700ppm of nutrients. This does not include whatever is in your tap water. Shoudln't be too relevant, but part of those 'local variables' that could requires minor adjustment to mitigate. It's not about what works well for 1 day or 1 week... a small imbalance may take weeks or even a couple months to display a problem. How long it takes informs about how severe of an adjustment you need to make to avoid it next time. Plant use does change after flip to flower. If you continue with 120ppm N after flip, you will almost certainly end up with a nitrogen toxicity by week 5-7 of flower or before. this is where tracking helps.. you can look at what you did, decide to change your formula at a certain point to avoid it next time... rinse and repeat until it's smoothed out and works for 95% of plants, or more. i regularly run multiple strains off the same reservoir. I've run 7 off 1 reservoir with zero problems.. it's not even something i worry about at this point because i know it'll be fine. this is one of the benefits of soilless/hydro... this will be incredibly translatable and consistent from garden to garden, even if some minor adjustments are necessary for local variables. you can start off mimicing someone's formula and it will be incredibly similar results in all but the most extreme contexts and a modicum of common sense.