LED

That driver has A and B circuitry. I can't recall exactly the difference per label... one can hook up to an external pentiometer and one is built in but more limited in range of power 40%-100% vs 0-100, for example. The floor can vary by model. Usually 40-50% give or take. The 'type' (A or B) that has the built in control for amps can also exceed the listed watts. e.g. my 240watt dirvers go up to 278watts.. it'slisted as 1400ma, but can dial up to 1.61a or 1.65a.. whatever adds up to roughly 280w (v x a). Been years since I read up on all that when i mae my DIY lights, so the exact details are a bit foggy. The efficacy of the light will impact exact fit. This is just the driver. Efficacy might range from low 2.0's to nearly 3.0 umol/J 500 - 720 umol/s PAR can make a big difference in the area you want to focus it on etc... In general for a QB framed LED, 18-24" is usually best... with a bar/strip style frame you can get closer due to better distribution of diodes. If it's well-sized for a tent, it's 67% over 18hours and 100% over 12 hours.. but if not sized properly it'll vary. Also, if oyu only grow autoflowers, it's a slightly different calculation for how big of an area you can sufficiently cover with that light. So, too many missing variables here. knowing the umol/s PAR output of the light would help greatly with suggestions. Otherwise it's a guess with potentially exaggerated trial and error to dial it in.

That's only the name of the driver, not the light. The driver runs at around 260w on max

Generally, hanging heights are....... Seedligs 24 inches Veg 18 inches Flower 12 inches I do 50% for seedlings then 75% for veg and 100% for flowering. 18/6 from day one until harvest for autos and 18/6 for seedligs/veg, then 12/12 for flowering if photoperiod fems.

Seedling early veg 25 to 40 % 24 pouce week 1 and 2 Growing :50 to 75 % Flowering: 100 %%