So long as you keep oxygen in the medium, it's almost impossible for pH to swing unless there is a deficiency. Your plants look perfect; just keep an eye on the color of the green. Right now, she is a little darker; this isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it indicates that the concentration of chlorophyll is high, meaning nitrogen is abundant and that the plant is currently uptaking slightly more than it is able to process through dynamic growth,
If it continues to go darker, then you should flush to reset your medium and continue like you were before, but do less food. She looks nowhere near high EC, so even just give her a watering with no feed, then go back to feeding a slightly lower dose.
"No ppm meter, just a blue razz some guessing"
The thing is, EC isn't just about food; it's the electrical conductivity that drives water potential(movement). Just throwing in nutrients works for a little bit, but as soon as your EC goes up, the water stops flowing, all you are doing right now is filling up all your buffer zone in the medium. As soon as it's full, your pH will skew, and you'll see it 2-3 weeks into flower, maybe earlier, asking why your plant is turning yellow from resulting alkaline drift/iron chlorosis.
EC IN = 1200ppm
EC IN MEDIUM = Potential for water movement (Just gotta make sure this number stays as balanced as possible)
EC OUT 800ppm
Synthetic nutrients: all you really do is replace the salt ratio; the problem is, if you don't keep tabs on runoff, eventually the nitrogen levels will skew one way or another, and you won't have a clue, as the immediate medium's EC can only hold so much before water movement becomes crippled.
Good luck anyhow.