Good/Bad SPECS?

Biggest factor to keep an eye on especially since you are using organic nutes is soil temp, if it goes above 72-73F for any peiod of time, things will get yellow very fast.

With no pictures of the plant it’s hard to tell… 8-10 weeks Veg plants can handle this amount of light . Smaller plants I doubt.

VPD is for transpiration; transpiration occurs lights on, letent heat drives evaporation that pulls water and creates a cohesive column of water up and through the plant; osmosis/EC is what dictates the potential and drives turgor pressure/nutrient uptake through bulk flow. VPD is 10x less effective at night as there is no transpiration. Leaving the responsibility on moving water to evaporation; if it never occurs, eventually you're screwed. Moisture can only stagnate in the same atmosphere so long before disease will set in. Maintain VPD at 0.8 at night to prevent bud rot and pythium. Allow the 10F drop from lights off and worry only about RH (what you can control) Reduce and control RH to 50% at night and connect secondary exhaust to RH% and keep it within 4-5%. We optimize for days, but no one optimizes for nights; failure to do so often leads to inexperienced holding high RH% overnights; this is devastating to respiration as gas exchange grinds to a halt. Doesn't matter if you capture 100DLI if you only convert a tiny fraction of it into usable energy overnight due to a stifled environment crippling efficient enzymatic production. Do that, you will convert a vast amount more ATP overnight; you need the negative pressure differential at night to keep the soil pumping(breathing) through varying tent pressures. Varying tent pressures act as a mechanical bellows for the soil. (Shhh, our secret)

1040 ppfd for 4th week of flower under 12 hours is too much for rubisco to handle to maintain, unless your environmental conditions are spot on 100% time, she will have massive vascular crashes with small pots (5-8) gallons. Noticed you have a carbon filter with bends. As soon as you do that, it adds 50% resistance to airflow, which means in order to maintain correct air exchange and keep your exhaust functioning efficiently, you need to double the size of your intake to counter the resistance and create a correct negative pressure, if you can. If the latent heat from lights cannot be exchanged/exhausted faster than heat is generated, the tent will rapidly heat up past what it needs to be. To even get close to actually utilizing 45 DLI, you need to be in the 86-88F range at 400ppm, Takes alot of water to do so. You are also using plastic pots, which will greatly reduce oxygen levels (especially without negative pressure) Organic nutrients and creating an organic rhizosphere require a lot more oxygen in the medium. There will be massive shifts, as once the buffer capacity is filled, the entire pot will rapidly shift to anaerobic, hypoxic conditions; everything goes yellow, then you come on GD and ask for solutions and get told to add calmag. You are trying to be the organic grower using a synthetic-style setup. VPD10x less effective at night.