Chat
RecommendedRecommended

gnome

Newbie
Message
Follow
3
#5011
Global pos.
4
Diaries
29
Harvests
5
Growing, years
NA
Region
1
Answers
P 9%
Photoperiod
100%
Indoor
Dr. Krippling
Breeder preferred:
66% Dr. Krippling
16% Royal Queen Seeds
Mars Hydro
Light preferred:
100% Mars Hydro
Terra Aquatica
Nutrient preferred:
96% Terra Aquatica
4% NPK Industries

gnome
gnome
@TheUk420Show, Feeding every watering is way I go as well, I use plain water no ph adjusting with veg to save money on nutes and they generally look little worse for wear. They are also most times root bound which wouldn't be issue in coco if I hooked up automatic watering again. Id like to get automatic watering in the bloom room but getting root to coco ratio to that point will take longer than I'd like to wait. Putting the plants in bigger pots before the raised bed makes 30% of the roots stick out top of the raised beds coco. Though for efficiency a scrog with a sog plant count seems to do best. Canopy evenness, root spread , and to some degree pruning and training are easier. Out here in southern Virginia day temps outside are mid to low 80F (26-29c). Inside it stays 73F (22-23c) my mini split ac unit does good job cooling and keeping humidity in check. One main reasons I didn't run CO2 this run couldn't get temp up high enough to warranty it with out my humidity getting way too high. My nutes are in a 20 and 55 gallon (75L & 208L) containers that sit on concrete so they stay cool. In past with manageable size pots if I had salt build up or high EC I would set the pot in a tote and pour tap water through it and let it sit for hour or so. I'd Measure EC of the water left in tote and rinse and repeat till it's in range. Then the last flush I'd mix a batch nutes up and get it to a good ph . That way plant doesn't stress from the osmotic change of going to straight plain water over the long term. This probably is the top reason I love coco over "soil".
gnome
@TheUk420Show, Only time I have salt issues is when I go overboard on the ph up. I used to use General hydro dry ph up (potassium carbonate )till they discontinued it. That 1 kilo bag lasted me years the 1 gal liquid stuff goes too quick , so I got ph up from kelp4less (calcium hydroxide) cheap enough but it doesn't mix in like the potassium. Now If I need to raise ph I get kettle going and use almost boiling water to dissolve the calcium hydroxide and I add in potassium hydroxide so I can cut back on how much I have to put in. When I reuse coco my only issues is the old roots. I sift most I can out , but when the rest start to compost it starts to lower my ph. I love the fabric pots , I have times specially with the 5 and 7.5 gallon ones that they like to become meshed with the coco/roots . My 200 gallon raised bed is a huge fabric pot 1m x 2m x 0.5m. I run 150ish liters through it and long as it doesn't suck up all the fluid I let it cycle . That way EC and PH even out both in the media and the reservoir. I don't always fertigate this way as I think it would be wetter than the plant can handle. Maybe every other week or so. Do you fertigate every watering or do you rotate with plain water? This plant is biggest I've flowered indoors but I've done the same size canopy with 3 plants and they seem to finish about the same time. No matter the size one grow to the next they've always finished 70-73 days from flip. When running my CO2 burner at 1200 ppm I did tend to finish more at day 69/70. I think when you grow, the size of the plant determines the need for higher EC and/or more frequent fertilizing. specially with potassium in both late veg and bloom it needs to be handy . Your user name nod to the youtuber or is that your channel?