HumanCompanion

<span class="link_user">@HumanCompanion</span>, ahhh ok buddy. I got ya. I know what you mean. And now I know what you want specific to Trichoderma. I thought you want a complete full answer with the smallest detail:rolling_on_the_floor_laughing: Lets have our conversation in privat chat so we dont spam the comment section.

<span class="link_user">@GanjaGecko</span>, dude, thanks for keeping up the conversation. I don&#039;t want to ask Ai about some things which I want to learn. THe questions I am asking are to make me a better grower. I need to remember these basic things. I can use that google, but I want to have a discussion to remember this info. So, I am going to continue asking questions which you can cook with your Ai, but your main contribution is teaching me. PS yeah, I use Ai a lot for growing, but I don&#039;t need to teach Ai. I am guiding and teaching myself this way!!! I want your understanding. Not Ai or articles. I need to have basic understanding of these basic things which are known by every grower, but for us they are more like stupid rules which we follow without understanding them. With your Ai i will not remember much. I want to remember, I want it to be between me and you, humans. I can find articles about trichoderma. What I need is your simple words without any Ais. ______ Dude, are you passive aggressive? &#039;&#039;I don&#039;t know if that will make your plant healthy again. I don&#039;t know what&#039;s wrong with it.&#039;&#039; I did not ask for help with unhealthy plants. My plant is not unhealthy ))) I repeat: I need to understand (not just remember) these basic things. So, I am like a child, asking basic baby questions. I mean that microorganisms are a lottery. And most people use them like a monkey with glasses, they buy and buy and pay money, but I have a lot of doubt about all those bags with expensive powders. For example, if you use the bokashi which are extremely popular today, but don&#039;t set the right temperature and pH, then there will be no effect!! And I suppose, most people just buy those substances and powders, and waste time on useless ways of growing. So, I was like one of those people: buy trichoderma, buy root hormone, buy auxins, but hormones, buy minerals, until one day I started growing in soil. Now, I can easily grow a big bush of weed outside in a 10L pot with organic soil and coco/verm (very cheap). And it grows like it&#039;s crazy while you are applying that trichoderma to your substrate. Compare me and you: you waste money - I save money. I also relax and don&#039;t stress about all those chemicals, and dosages, and deficiences, all that garbage info is already the thing of the past for me. I will use your trichoderma if I have it, and I will be happy because it will give +10% boost to my confidence that everything is OK in my good soil. And I used trichoderma in my pot this cycle, but it is not critical for my pot&#039;s health. More likely that trichoderma expired in the fridge after 3 years. Mites. You use them for catching other mites. I simply use mite extract called Actofit. Super effective!!! Can be kept in fridge for years, works like a charm every year. Let&#039;s continue digging into the basics, don&#039;t hate me for strong curiosity. Have a good evening. PS really don&#039;t hate me, because I miss our chatting. :kissing::zzz:

<span class="link_user">@HumanCompanion</span>, With mineral fertilizers, it&#039;s advantageous to be able to control and regulate the environmental conditions. This means you have to monitor the EC value and adjust it as needed. Under- and over-fertilization are more likely to occur. I use CalMag as my mineral fertilizer, which I switch to Bio-CalMag during flowering. GreenSensation is a flowering booster I use, also mineral-based. However, I only add it starting in the fourth week of flowering, and even then, only at 50-70% of the recommended dosage. At 100% of the recommended dosage, the plant shows signs of over-fertilization. I had to experiment a bit to find the right amount. Since BioBloom is a complete flowering fertilizer, and there&#039;s also Batguano available as a flowering booster, there&#039;s no need for a 100% mineral flowering booster. PK 5-8 is an organic flowering booster that the plants receive starting in the second week of flowering and tolerate very well. Mineral fertilizers may not promote soil life, but they don&#039;t destroy it entirely. With mineral fertilizers, you feed the plant directly with macro- and micronutrients in a form that the plants can absorb. With organic fertilizers, you feed the soil life, and the microorganisms in the soil decompose the organic nutrients in the substrate, making them available to the plant. From here on, I was feeling lazy and copied something: Besides NPK, BioGrow powder contains, among other things, calcium, magnesium, trace elements, as well as beneficial fungi and bacteria. The mineral nutrients can be absorbed directly by the plant, while the organic nutrients are broken down by microorganisms and gradually released into the soil. In addition, the beneficial fungi and bacteria increase the soil&#039;s microbial activity by forming humus. BioGrow Organic matter from bone meal, malt germ, horn meal, feather meal, vinasses, rapeseed cake meal 34% Derived from: bone meal, barley germ, Magnesium sulfate, horn meal, feather meal, sugar beet vinasse, limestone, canola meal. Mycelium can appear on top of the substrate. It improves microbial life inside the substrate and will not harm humans, animals or plants. Fungi is the main agent of the decomposition of organic matter such as simple sugars, amino acids, etc. It solubilizes minerals that are not initially available to plants. BioBloom Organic Matter from bone meal, feather meal, vinasses, rapeseed cake meal. Derived from: bone meal, Magnesium sulfate, feather meal, sugar beet vinasse, canola meal, dicalcium Phosphate. Mycelium can appear on top of the substrate. It improves microbial life inside the substrate and will not harm humans, animals or plants. Fungi is the main agent of the decomposition of organic matter such as simple sugars, amino acids, etc. It solubilizes minerals that are not initially available to plants. The fertilizer also includes Bio Enhancer every two weeks. BioEnhancer The fungus Trichoderma harzianum combats diseases caused by other harmful fungi. By keeping the root zone healthy and free of parasites, it improves the root system. Trichoderma produces auxins, or growth hormones, which it passes on to the plant. The plant can use auxin for its root and overall growth. Additionally, Trichoderma is able to make nutrients present in the soil more readily available to the plant. The bacterium Bacillus subtilis competes with other pathogens. By depriving them of nutrients, diseases are naturally regulated. Furthermore, Bacillus subtilis decomposes organic matter, making valuable nitrogen and phosphorus available to the plants. Benefits of BioEnhancer Increases plant vitality Activates and improves root growth Stimulates microorganisms in the soil Combats diseases, bacteria, and toxic fungi Improves seed germination rates -Wormcastings Worm castings are rich in nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as trace elements like iron, manganese, copper, and zinc. They provide important microorganisms and plant hormones for healthy soil life.

<span class="link_user">@GanjaGecko</span>, 1) heavy dryback is beneficial to the growth of the plant&#039;&#039; How exactly does it help cannabis grow better??? I did it to promote root growth, because I thought they had to search for water and got deep into substrate, but I am not sure it really helped. 2) I must have fooled myself about the wind blowing away spidermites (maybe those were children from the spider which was working for me in my tent at the moment. I let big spiders live in my tent. They look happy and effective). But I believe they just cannot get attached to the stem and get blown at the beginning, and not when they have already created their protective nets? Nice hypothesis?

<span class="link_user">@GanjaGecko</span>, dude, you copied their marketing info from their site. I already see something non-organic: Magnesium sulfate and dicalcium phospate. I cannot tell what can happen if I add them to my soil. It&#039;s risky. Will they damage microorganisms too much or just kill 10 % ??? THis is what I don&#039;t like. Soil must contain some nutrients (not more not less) which become available to plants with the help of microorganisms, right? SO, if I add your ferts I will make my plant healthy in one area, while the other areas get side effects and get worse. DOn&#039;t you think so? This marketing info: - &#039;&#039; Trichoderma produces auxins, By keeping the root zone healthy and free of parasites, it improves the root system&#039;&#039; . Have you read any research papers on it?? It sounds so good! - &#039;&#039; Bacillus subtilis competes with other pathogens, decomposes organic matter&#039;&#039;. But it would be killed by Trichoderma, wouldn&#039;t it??? I like these eco-mechanisms. I need to clearly understand them, because there is so much marketing garbage which manipulates people and does not get punished.

<span class="link_user">@HumanCompanion</span>, das braune Wasser ist gedüngtes (Biobizz) Wasser. Wir gießen die Pflanzen alle zwei Tage, somit kann die Oberfläche leicht austrocknen.

<span class="link_user">@Sundancers</span>, mmm, yummy. :yum: Is that Biobizz made from fish intestines and fish bones? Powders? I also let the surface get dry (it&#039;s not coco, it will be fine )))) :grin: but the fungus gnats will get dried, and the plant will not lok pale because of sick overwatered roots. I guess roots get sick or just cannot cacch the oxygen in the substrate if it is always wet. I heard that you should not dry the surface when you grow in coco. What would you call your substrate in simple words? Mine is peat with humus, but there are many components ie lime soil, peat, vermiculite, coco and 4 manures. Many big worms live in my pot, really. I mean big worms which reach 15 cm. They are simply from my garden, and I will not change them because they are locals, i.e. already adapted to all sorts of terrible local pathogens (at least 25% omy substrate is the local lime soil from my garden. I&#039;m lucky I&#039;ve got this type of soil for free, while many people in other non-lucky regions on our planet have to buy expensive bags of my soil. I could grow in that soil alone just by using sulfur granules + manure + maybe pH down. PSS I suppose I could try growing even in coco+vermicompost. Would you risk?

<span class="link_user">@Mrs_Larimar</span>, I also wonder how they grow them so big. Maybe autoflowers?

<span class="link_user">@HumanCompanion</span>, going from 10 to 20% is twice as bright haha..