07/09/2019 #5 failed! just well not enough room for all of them, I'm thinking about stagering one month apart so I can harvest once a month anyone who has ever done this please share your insight.🙏07/14/2019 Day 5 and roots coming out time to transplant, the other two will go another week before transplant so they will veg longer in bigger pots

I put them to germinate on 03/09, and on 05/09 they were already in the pots. They don't have a defined breed, the weed was good, let's try. I'll use 5 seeds, but 10 of 11 germinated. 12/12 from seed 2 on organic pots 3 on inert pots

Muy buenas a tod@s... Octava semanita de las critical... Ya estamos en los días finales, hermosas y pretas flores, rico aroma y bastante recina... Una limpieza y listo... Hermosa planta... Me encantó... Buen finde para tod@s y buenos humos... 😎💪🏻🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦💨💨💨

Not much really to report, the 2 seeds took 3 days to pop up- Still nothing from the 3rd BUT it also didn't crack open in water while germinating.. SO 2/3 aint bad. I will be waiting a few days and transplanting these autos into 3 gallon pots and put on 12/12 :) 2019.12.29 third one didn't pop up, kept trying and decided to give up! stoked about these girls, they are thriving in my tent.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Empezamos la semana cambiando los nutrientes al observar ya unos pequeños pistilos o estigmas , en definitiva, empezaron a mostrar tímidamente el sexo. Empiezo con poco y iré subiendo la dosis hasta 4ml/L hasta que vuelva a cambiar de nutrientes. Creo observar del Lumatek ATSpro que le fataria un punto de luz en el centro del panel. Por lo general con otras luminarias la planta del medio me solia crecer mucho mejor y esta vez está quedando retrasada. Seguiré cultivando y si me sigue pasando lo mismo entonces no tendré ninguna duda, por ahora solo son conjeturas, xd De lo anterior rectifico , tengo que decir que pasados dos dias lo estoy viendo diferente, la del medio parece que sigue por buen camino, ahora apenas notaria la diferencia. La semana anterior, la sexta, se les hizo una segunda pulverización con dosis alta de 3ml/L con spiderbloom ( "fitofortificante de impacto muy rápido") pero de nada sirvió, durante esta semana subió la temperatura a 30ºC un par de dias y las arañas salieron a pegarse el gran festín. Una vez constatada la existencia de araña roja correteando por el envés de las hojas solo toca desinfectar bién el armario, lavarlas a todas una a una con agua corriente para arrastrar el máximo de arañitas y una vez secas darles con algun acaricida químico. De no hacerlo ahora me seria imposible más adelante y no tengo ningunas ganas de dejar perder este cultivo. No soy partidario de lo químico pero menos de dejarlas perder.

Day 39: haha one girls is so fast already got flowers and I totally failed scrogging these girls! But I hope for nice bud anyways Mars hydro SP3000 High PPFD at 2.8 umol/j, average yield at 2.5g/w, increasing your yield 50% or more compared with old blurple and HPS lights, 300 watts output. Dimmer knob added, more convenient to adjust the brightness. Up to 30 lights can be daisy-chained and control together on just one light, or just have one lamp in 120x60 tent is perfect for light. https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/

* Week 8 ( Week 3 flower ) - 12/3 - 14.5 Inches* She has about 2 weeks left so I weaned her off the flower nutes and began flushing with Lotus Carbofulsh. Harvesting next week ( 12/9 or 12/10) switched to 12/12.

Good week overall, started with a defoliation and lst for Sugar Mama, she was too unruly and here we are by the end of the week she is full of leaves again. I am going to let her grow as is and save her from more defolation she is not getting taller, yet. All the other girls are doing well, nothing much to report apart from that I found out what is going on with those nutrients and the general unhealth of plants (spots on some, really bright on others, clawed tip, ...) but none seemed too serious. I discovered that because I am towards the end of my nutrients that they were too think and were not actually mixing well into the water explaining why the EC wasn't getting as high as I expected when adding biogrow. Made sure the nutrients are properly mixed (put them in then blast with water to mix well) and water them today with a good mixed meal, expecting them to have better colours soon. The fastberry is looking prettier every day, the deformity that was at the beginning is barely visible now. Good week overall, although I've been focusing on my outdoor plants (one harvested another moved indoor permanently). Started on day 43 with a defoliation and lst for Sugar Mama, she was too unruly and here we are by the end of the week she is full of leaves again. I am going to let her grow as is and save her from more defolation she is not getting taller, yet. All the other girls are doing well, nothing much to report apart from that I found out what is going on with those nutrients and the general unhealth of plants (spots on some, really bright on others, clawed tip, ...) but none seemed too serious. I discovered that because I am towards the end of my nutrients that they were too think and were not actually mixing well into the water explaining why the EC wasn't getting as high as I expected when adding biogrow. Made sure the nutrients are properly mixed (put them in then blast with water to mix well) and water them today with a good mixed meal, expecting them to have better colours soon. Thanks for visiting, please leave any feedback, comments or suggestions.

Dear Growers , Welcome to Flower Week 7-8 Day 49-56 from Flowering , we’re excited to share a very special project with you: NARCOS SEEDS Kingping Kush . With dedication, knowledge, and hands-on practice, we’ll guide you step by step through the journey—watch with us as growth, development, and small wonders unfold before your eyes. Whether you're a beginner or an expert, you are warmly invited to join, ask questions, and share your own experiences along the way! Project Setup & Conditions: • Brand/Manufacturer: Narcos Seeds • Tent: 222cmx150cmx150cm • Light: 2x 720 Watt Full Spectrum • Humidity: 40% • Soil: Narcos Organix Mix • Nutrients: Narcos Products • pH Value: 5.6 A Special Thanks To Narcos Seeds for the amazing collaboration, trust, and generous support in making this project possible. Your contribution is truly appreciated! Congratulations on Your Own Projects! We celebrate your growth, your creativity, and the passion you bring to the table. It’s truly inspiring to witness at Each visit . Stay curious and keep up Growing —we look forward to welcoming you back for the next chapter soon!

Inside me tent, set up AND... Beautiful girls, and the queen has already started to bloom :)

Keeling on top of training and trying to full my scrog

Awwww mannnn. She's getting pretty huge. I flipped to 12/12 on May 8th. Now we wait to see how much she stretches and for buds to start forming. So excited!!!

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 56 and she's just killing💀it👌 The Smell has kicked in and is wonderful 😀 👉We are in full out flowering 💐 and its looking great 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the first few feedings 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm helping out with some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Happy 420

I have a little issue with some clawing going on here. But only on these 3 plants. These are the ones closest to the circulation fan which was right on them so I pointed it upwards a bit last week to not hit them so hard. Granted it’s not been a problem before. They are in coco and the run pretty dry every other day and they get a reasonable 800ppm water of nutrients from floraflex with cal mag and some micros from ghe. I can’t imagine it’s a nitrogen toxicity in the second week of flower especially with these nutes. Now only on the middle one I also have a large fan leaf as the photos show starting to yellow. What do you think??

The ladies will tell u all, as u can see on the pictures these girls will become majestic