The buds are really sticky and smell super strong. This stuff gives you a head high followed by relaxation. I dried for 14 days at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 % RH.

…

Ich bin gespannt ! Die Blüten sehen schon gut aus und der Geruch ist super lecker 🤩

From the looks of it. I am in early stages of root rot. Plant is not growing as fast as it was at all. It can be a few things. Light penetration into the bucket. My water temps are around 70f. So I think that's okay. I had some extra mylar from a grow I did years ago. Cut pieces to go over the kids hopefully that helps. I took out all additives besides CalMag. They were fouling the rez as usual. Dropping the Ph as usual. I think it's also the cause of the root rot. I have sprayed soaked with h202 and have added it to the reservoir after a cleaning and a water change. Looks a bit better. I'm located in Canada and I cannot find hydroguard anywhere. Which kinda sucks. Any alternatives would be great. Thanks

Edit from 19th May. Literally 00:09 Pre-Flowering. Fat Banana looks like Hermie. Royal Critical = clean pre-flower. Edit from 19th May. 16:26 Fat Banana had balls sack and pistils growing all over the place. I nuked everything that had balls on it. I left only top node with pistils. Royal Critical is full of pistils, no balls. Now I wish I had photoperiod seeds instead of automatics. I would give Critical 1 extra week in veg. She is around 10-15cm smaller then Fat Banana. I switched the lights back to 400W. Edit from 20th May. 14:45 I think 32C is maximum what these plants can handle. With 600W I was reaching 34C on some top leaves and that could possibly turn the Fat Banana into hermit (she was the tallest). I open the tent a little (front doors), I put big-ass fan on second gear blowing strong wind through the mesh-window of a tent. I put the lights straight up to the ceiling, I literally can't put them any higher. Fat banana is now 58cm tall and around 80cm away from the light. Royal Critical is now 41cm tall and around 100cm away from the light. 50% Humidity 28C under the canopy/on the ground under the leaves 31C Air temperature. Fat Banana fan leaves temperature: 28.5C Fat Banana center/middle of the plant: 30.9C Royal Critical fan leaves temperature: 27.5C Royal Critical center/middle of the plant: 27.8C NOTE: Royal Critical ugly/yellow leaves have higher temp: 29-30C The rest of small plants range from 28 and 32C Surface area/soil temperature DRY: 35C Surface/Soil temp. WET/SHADOW: 28-29C That pistol/laser for checking temps was solid purchase. I can see back of my tent is more hot then other areas. Will do more Temp-Checks in the future. I also deleted few things from "Condition" tab because one day they are correct, the other something change and the info is not accurate anymore. I'll update info here in edits. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date: 20th May 2024 Time: 16:57 Tent status: Side doors little bit open. Both windows fully open. Fan blowing air on second gear outside the tent, West window. Fan insides on full. Lights power: 400W Lights schedule: 18/6 Humidity: 50% Dry soil temp: 35C Wet soil temp:
 28.5C Fan leaves temp: 28.5C 
Center of the flower temp: 30C 
Stem temp: ~32C 
Air temp. Inside tent: 30-32C 
Air temp. Outside tent: 25.5C 
Air temp. Outside house:
 21C ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date:
 21th May 2024 Time:
 15:53 Tent status:
 Side windows full open. Front doors 75% open. Big-ass-fan on second gearwest window. Lights power:
 400W Lights schedule:
 18/6 Humidity:
 50% Dry soil temp:
 36C-38C in front // 38C-40C in back Wet soil temp: 
Fan leaves temp: 28-29C

 

Stem temp: 29C 

Air temp. Inside tent: 31C 

Air temp. Outside tent:

 26C Air temp. Outside house: 20C Details: Smol plants growing stronk! They have little bit crumbled leaves cuz of heat I guess. 32C @ 50% RH is max for my setup. Edit from 22th May. @ 13:10 Nothing changes. Plants are happy and praying to their god ( me ofc :) ) Same temps Same RH I watered them yesterday after long days/weeks of dry season (cuz of FuckYouGnats). Edit from 23th May. @ 11:40am Same temps or even a bit lower then in last two days. I like it. I closed 85% of windows in tent (door fully closed) to create negative pressure that's gonna suck out the hot air. It seems to work better than what I did yesterday. Today I gave them second dose of nematodes. There is really very little Fungus Gnats around now. Sometimes, occasionally one or two "teenagers" or "baby" Gnats would fly out from bottom of pot or top of the soil after watering but that's like nothing comparing to what I had at the beginning. Shit-ton of yellow-sticky-tape does the job as well, just put it everywhere you can. / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZEddFi1W8k / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? Edit from 23th May @ 2pm So I'm reading about VPD now and I think, this is what is happening in my tent right now. High temps but RH at right levels makes the plant comfy in that zones. Right now plants sitting at 30.6C @ 55% RH So I'm sitting at 1.27 VPD? If I could lower my temps to 29C and keep RH at 55% that would be 1.20 VPD (which would be perfect) N o t B a d R o o k I e Edit from 24th May @ 11:24 am So in last 3 days the temperature outside my house is dropping + raining. So that means I have perfect VPD in my tent now. We are sitting at 30C @ 50-55% RH. Most plants have praying leaves, even Lady Banan stops being moody and just start fucking flowering like it should. Finally. But I can see she wanna grow even more upwards, like wtf, this is not 3 meter tent, its only 2.2m, chill the freaking out Lady Banan... Im gonna have literal forest if the rest of Bananas would grow like that. As you can see I'm kinda happy with the grow now. Fungus Gnats still present but under control. Yellow Sticky tape, especially under the mesh window, the tape is catching fuck-ton of these motherfuckers. Few days ago I did "Very Light Stress Training" with Royal Critical. So I basically just tackle the fan leaves in the way, where, when fan leaves are growing bigger, they push the side branches more to the outside (apologize for my English but you can check out the pictures and see what I mean). So she is training by her self, alone, with the power of nature = and it works, she is opening more and more every 2 days. Edit from 25th May @ 21:53 Yoyoyoyoyoyo! So my ADHD and Bipolar kicks in so Idgaf about temps, its colder, around 29C @ 45% They got a lot of fresh air today, I was "luchting" today. I think I had to water them today but... Will do tomorrow morning. I'm thinking about Pimpology classes for myself, for better communication with the bitches, you know what I mean... They ain't thickening up if they aint stressing! Edit from 26th May. Sunday. 7am DOUBLE DROP NEVER STOP LET THAT BEAUTY POP 69 PLANT SIZE: BANAN = 72CM CRITICAL = 65CM 😎

Can't wait for each of them to finish out. Giving them hopefully their full amount of water, less with the auto as it was stunted by the 12/12.

Continued working on the mainlining structure. This week I performed a selective defoliation to remove leaves blocking the inner structure and improve airflow. I also applied some light LST, only to guide the branches and keep them level while the manifold continues to develop. No heavy stress this week, just fine tuning and letting the plant recover and grow evenly 🌱

it smells SOOOOOO sweet in my house im glad it is leagal the Black lebanon has so much resin its all most dripping you cant touch a leaf without your fingers sticking together Super Sativa Seed Club has nothing but top notch genetics My next Grow will feature Sour Tangie Chemdawg, and Bruce Lemon diesel. my current grow harvest date is DEC 3RD I can wait more to follow soon Black Lebanon is one of the prettiest buds I have ever grown gulp gulp nothin but H20 till dec 3rd

We’ve now reached the third week of flowering, and I’m thrilled with how well my plant is doing! I adjusted the nutrients recently, and it’s definitely made a difference. The plant seems to be thriving, and the leaves are showing a vibrant green, indicating that it’s getting exactly what it needs. Even more exciting, the trichomes are starting to form all over the buds, and there’s no shortage of them! It’s amazing to see so many trichomes developing this early on, giving the plant a frosty look already. The overall growth is still going strong, and the buds are getting fuller. I’m really happy with the progress so far and can’t wait to see how things continue in the coming weeks. I hope this nutrient adjustment keeps everything on track for a great harvest!💚🌱

Overall, I would definitely grow this strain again and probably will to see if I can do better a second time around.

24/7 Dedication 10000000% Involvement Future is HereExploreer Level. Have to bring it to All Community Peace

So Buddy‘s Den Ladys geht es hervorragend. Sie machen ordentlich Fortschritte. Wetter spielt wieder Perfekt mit. Updates folgen ✌️

All in all a good run but because of my fault with the wrong lightcolour. Wont Happen again. On to the next one. (After I smoked All these)

Struggling a touch with cold temps at day and night but now swapped the 400mh for a 600hps for the last few days of veg to up temps a touch. Will initiate flower in a couple of days and all looks good. Limited height room in this chamber so plants are a little smaller than I normally would have liked.

No problems to report this week. Gelato smelling amazing. Strong frosty bud growth in all strains. Looking forward to the next couple of weeks of development.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

The girl is hungry and asked for 5 liters watering. (1200 ml has flowed through)😋

Light fluffy bud, but so much of it that weight got up there in the end. Really soft smoke with some earthy textures and tastes. Less sweet smelling than the previous haze but has a lot more earthy, baking smell to it this one.

CASH EXPRESS 03.01.2025 Tag 44 / 19.02.2025 Die 6 Woche ist erfolgreich erreicht! Das Umtopfen war erfolgreich es gab keine großen Schäden an den Wurzeln. Zwischenzeitlich habe ich noch mal gedüngt und einen Wurzelaktivator in das Wasser hinein gegeben. Gerne nehme ich Ratschläge von der Community an.

Las plantas se ven bien, me hubiese gustado que estén en una maceta mas grande. Intentare hacerlo esta semana aunque no se si sea lo mejor a esta altura.