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@festaOG
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Almost ready for harvest, starting to flush the girls out. Love the array of colours and smells, got some gassy phenos aswell as sweet phenos. Counting down until I have 10% amber trichs (discounting sugar leaves) EDIT: Added more photos
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Trip out of town to check on Buddy (As now named by the helper). Plant looked good on arrival but rather a lot of yellow leaves with the nice looking buds. I removed some of the shaded yellow fan leaves and sprayed the rest with Gaia Green soluble seaweed extract as a foliar spray. Also crushed in one calcium citrate pill. The remaining 0.5 L was watered onto the soil. Within half an hour you could see the green colour coming back to the leaves. Amazing revival trick it seems. After giving that some time which lets the potassium do its thing, I then fed it a final round of nutrients in pHed water (molasses, Big Bud, calcium citrate and Epsom salts). K followed by Ca and Mg. Planning to just use water for next two weeks. It is looking really nice. I had topped it several times during vegetation and consequently there were too many branches/colas happening. Removed four small ones as testers. Tied branches to cage to provide support and resilience against wind (see videos). Also placed logs to buttress the base so it won’t tip over in a strong wind. It was good to see Buddy again and I’ll check in her again soon.
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@valiotoro
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Another super terpy tasty baby strain💜 Rockdense buds
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Easy grow and the overall quality is great. I feel like I definitely could yield way more if I did way more training. If included trim and shake, this planted yield 2 ozs which isn’t bad for sharing space with 3 other plants in a 2x2 space. I have a few more seeds of this strain and will be growing them again definitely. I’ll catch yall on the next one ☝️🏾
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@Localbudz
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What a run!!!! my first grow was a massive success a wet weight of 3696 Grams. 16 colas in total from the V-8 manifolding technique i used on my two ladies. The average weight wet of each cola was 81.2 grams! I have this haul back in my tent ⛺. Excellent air flow not directly at the buds. I have the humidity at 50%. I expect a 10 to 12 day drying period with a 3 week minimum cure. I am taking a short break and starting a new crop of 4. Will be switching to either dwc or autopots. Have sour jack from crop king seeds still looking for an Indica. Will be running two sativa two indica under my twin TSL 2000. Check back for dry weight and pics of this first of many grows from Localbudz.
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@Edenganj
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Some significant yellowing a day apart from feeding. Did I give it a nutrition burn by changing the ratios of nutes? I probably should’ve done a flush before feeding.
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Pretty normal week, lots of flushing and smell definitely increased Managed to control temps a little better
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Posting the phenos when I do them
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@CalGonJim
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1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂
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Day 29 - The lady that I accidentally topped seems to be responding well, her top two nodes are really stretching out and looking good. Still only have one lady clearly showing white hairs at the nodes, but the other lady looks like shes about to pop. I also defoliated them a bit to allow for better light penetration. Day 30 - Did another round of light defoliation and rearranged the LST on both ladies. Still haven't noticed any white hairs on one lady. Day 31 - Rearranged my equipment setup inside the grow tent. Still no white hairs on one lady. Day 33 - More light defoliation and LST on both ladies. Starting to notice some white hairs on the lady yet to begin showing hairs. Both ladies are now in flower.
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@artems
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My little bonsai with 3 colas😇 Looks good, smells fine, very berry smell really
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@Fizzybuds
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We Have liftoff, They are officially potted! Regular soil and Perlite, going to find the sweet spot with the light, Being me Im trying a little Experiment with the pots, both fabric and 5/6 gal/25l but one taller and thinner than the rest, would be nice to see if there is any difference 😬, i've added the tiniest bit of bit of root juice just to spice things up a lil bit! Also a lil sneak peak of a Sweet seeds Dark Devil late flower 😉 lets doooo this!
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The calmag deficiency has improved significantly and the plants are now putting all their energy into the flowers. In the meantime, no new eggs are forming, which makes us very happy :)
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Day 73 Ho tolto entrambe le Watermelon Zkittlez. Non sono contento per come le ho trattate e per non essermi accorto dei problemi mostrati fin da inizio fioritura della Watermelon Zkittlez #2 (quella tutta gialla con foglie secche). Pensavo a una carenza e quindi ho continuato ad aggiungere calmag quando molto probabilmente era un blocco di ph e conseguente mancato assorbimento dei nutriente. Morale della favola?Fiori piccoli con resina che non ha minimo odore. Dagli errori si impara e finalmente mi sono comprato una pennetta Ph (Adwa Ad12) e non le solite cazzate che trovo su amazon e mi durano qualche giorno per poi rimanere senza e inciampare sempre in questi problemi. L'altra pianta stava bene fino a quando sono stato bene io. Alla fine loro vanno seguite e se ti assenti un attimo tante volte rischi di mandare tutto il lavoro all'aria. Fino al 60esimo giorno era perfetta poi per tre giorni sono stato male e non ho dato da bere alla pianta. Quando riapro il box la trovo tutta floscia e le cime molli e senza quell'odore che tanto mi stava colpendo nei giorni precedenti. Ora la lascio chiusa nei barattoli e vediamo se riesce a regalarmi un piccolo sorriso 😊 Grazie del passaggio. Due tre settimane aggiorno diario con qualche bella foto 🖐️
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This Week she's continuing to really strech out and form some pretty nice Buds. I started to Use the "Green Buzz Organic Bloom Liquid" and untill now i'm Happy with it. I am Incredibly Happy with the Strain "Applestrudel" from 420 Fastbuds it's growing Beautiful and starts forming and Packing up pretty decent. I hope you enjoy the Diary, please leave Comments and Questions !
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@Kushizlez
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Day 70-77 (Day 71) Not exactly sure why but node spacing on bbb 6&7 is super tight still. Their stems are also harder and less bendy, almost like they’re root bound. Bbb #5 in my veg tent is looking bizarre and I’m at a loss for what to do. I’ve been looking up and asking around about the leaf crinkle and no one seems to know what’s wrong. Trashing a pheno of this would hurt. It could be a keeper too as I don’t think the problem is genetic. It’s definitely root bound but that doesn’t cause contorted new growth like that. I’ve concluded that it’s my dense soil coupled with root bound issues, overwatering and high RH. (Day 72) Later tonight I’m going to give bbb 5 a bath tub flush until it’s reading 200ppms, drain it well and then transplant into a 3g pot with lightly amended soil. I’m also going to give it a light defoliation. I don’t mind stressing the shit out of this plant right now because I won’t be flipping for another week at least. With the small container it will run out of amended nutes mid flower so I will hit it with a few synthetic feedings around then to test out the smokabilty and taste compared to organic nutrients. I might as well give the rest a good defoliation on the rest of the plants too. I will try to get most of what is under the trellis. (Day 73) I definitely defoliated #7 waaay too much. Since it’s tucked away in the corner and a really bushy plant I can’t train it as well as the others. I cut most of the sucker branches and the majority of the lower fans. This should prevent the need to defoliate at all until week 3 of flower. (Day 74) I’ve been reading that higher temperatures with a high RH can affect growth big time. It could be what’s causing all the crinkling and twisting. And now that the plants are in very late veg they could probably benefit from a lower RH. When I was running my temps around 74-78F and 70% RH I was in the perfect range. Now that I’m around 82-86F with the same 70% RH that could be what’s causing it. Hotter air holds more moisture than cooler air and proper vpd at 84F is around 75-80%. I’m going to turn up the speed on my carbon filter and set my controller to 75%. If I don’t see a difference or it gets worse I will drop to 65 and go from there. (Day 76) I finally got the lights raised up another 4 inches or so. It’s not much but it should help reduce the intensity and stretch the nodes more. I’m starting to think the super tight node spacing and droopy/contorted growth has more to do with something I’ve been reading about called ‘soil compaction’. Apparently farmers often deal with compacted soil in fields from running tractors over it all day. When I potted the plants I gave them a good little jiggle to compact the soil down further so I could fit a bit more in the container. I think this could be the culprit as they don’t seem to be drying out evenly. Even the plants in my other room are not drying out like they should and it’s probably from compacting too. With the addition of rock dust and dry amendments the soil can become sandy/clay like and retain a lot more moisture. Wish I would have added a few more liters of perlite and packed the soil a bit looser. Either way I need to get this problem sorted ASAP before I get root rot. Earlier in the season when I overwatered, I stuck a fish tank air pump into the soil and it aerated the soil enough to prevent overwatering. The only reason I discontinued it is because it didn’t have much effect in the 1.7g pots. I just ordered a 36w 6 way fish tank pump that is way more powerful. It was 50 bucks and I’m willing to take a gamble on it. It seems to be my only option at the moment because I can’t just repot. Worst case scenario I can use it for brewing compost teas if it doesn’t work. I’m not sure how well this will work in a giant fabric pot but it’s worth a shot. I’ve heard of people supplementing additional air into raised garden beds with great results. I’m picking off some of the new auxiliary branches to try and widen the node spacing. Growth is definitely slow and stunted but no signs of deficiencies. I just thought of another theory on the node spacing... and the more I think about it, the more I think it’s the mystery problem. I’ve been foliar spraying with 1-1-1 VeloKelp at pretty high concentrations 2-3 times per week. I have heard in passing that kelp and seaweed can somehow reduce stretch. A quick google search reveals that Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed and other marine algae extracts contain large amounts of hormones and auxins that reduce plant height and stretch. *facepalm* Guess I’ll stop that for the rest of the cycle. As far as I know there is nothing I can really do but wait for the plant to use up all those excess hormones and nutes. The recent 0-0-15 seaweed extract and 1-0-3 kelp meal I bought is derived from the same kind as the velokelp. I guess I won’t use it again until week 3 or 4 in flower. Tight nodes are very useful in flower but aren’t desirable at all in when trying to scrog in veg. Especially when they’re like a half inch apart. It slows the shit out of a grow. Vietnamese and biker gangs in my area used to grow SOG style and use a synthetic PGR hormone (meant for bonsai trees) called ‘paclobutrazol’ that would make the weed rock hard dense so they wouldn’t have to pay people as much to trim it. I’ve heard that in recent years they have made the switch to using kelp extracts because paclo is getting harder find and is not meant for food crops let alone smokeable crops. I’m ashamed of it but I have smoked pounds of PGR weed long before I knew what a PGR was. 🤷‍♂️ (Day 77) One more theory. Ever since raising up the plants up onto that shelf the root zone is probably significantly warmer and the bottom of the pot (where most of the roots are) drys out way quicker. It’s possible that the warmer root zone could not be holding dissolved oxygen at the proper rate resulting in that over/underwatered look. Or it could be that I’m not watering enough at once to reach the bottom of the pot where the roots are and it’s indeed under watered. I’m going to water in a gallon when I get my new air pump and see if that makes any positive change. If I see the new air pump making a difference, I will flip on the 21st of April. If I don’t see a difference, I will carefully untangle the plants from the scrog net and remove the shelf. That extra foot should make a massive difference with ppfd and will cool down the roots significantly too. I’m thinking about grabbing a simple soil/compost thermometer to check the temp of the medium. Better safe than sorry. Rough week. Hopefully everything get smoothed out in the next little while before I flip.
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@Zuppler
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Harvest Report by Zuppler - End of Week 9 Yo, what’s good fam? Zuppler comin' through with that harvest report, Week 9 wrapped up and it’s time to bring these queens down. The buds are lookin’ fat, frosty, and sticky – they ripened up just right, with that perfect mix of milky and amber trichomes. Real proud of how this run turned out. I learned a lot in this grow, no doubt. Dialin' in them nutes, catchin' the burn early, and lettin' them heavy buds stack properly. It’s all about leveling up, ya feel me? Next grow, I’m excited to be poppin' some Cherry Pie and Fruit Cake beans – gonna take everything I learned this round and make the next one even better. Zuppler out. Stay tuned, fam – the next one’s gonna be fire! (Gemäß § 6c Abs. 2 des deutschen Cannabis-Gesetzes beachten wir die zulässige Höchstmenge von 100 Gramm getrocknetem Cannabis für unseren Zwei-Personen-Haushalt. Alle darüber hinausgehenden Mengen werden gemäß den gesetzlichen Vorgaben unverzüglich vernichtet, um sicherzustellen, dass wir uns stets im rechtlichen Rahmen bewegen.)