🖐️👨‍🌾 Bienvenidos entusiastas de la marihuana casera, clandestina y orgánica! Quinta semana de floración! 😋🌼 Fantástica planta! creo que me estoy enamorando! 💚👨‍🌾 HASTA LA PRÓXIMA... SALUDOS Y SALUD A TODOS! ========================= Zamnesia: "Si te gustan los efectos eufóricos, sociales y creativos, tienes que probar la Panama Red. Esta variedad landrace sativa centroamericana te animará al instante y deleitará tu paladar con un intenso sabor cítrico. " https://www.zamnesia.es/10652-zamnesia-seeds-panama-red.html Usa el siguiente código de descuento del 20% con cualquiera de nuestras cepas: ZAMMIGROW2024 =========================

// Day 78 I put her inside. I know, that's cheating, but I do not care right now. The weather will be abyssymal in the next days and I do not want to keep her just in my room at the balcony door because she stinks amazing, but I can't let her stink up the apartment. And she is pretty late in flower, I really want her to work on the buds, let them thicken up and I just want to enjoy the outcome in the end. This grow is already incredibly long for an autoflower and she still needs 2-3 more weeks, when looking at her bud sites. I don't want to harvest trash buds after investing 3 to 4 months into a plant. If the weather is good again, she will be back outside. If the weather is trash with rain all day, I'll keep her in the tent. My main concern is her bud development. The sites are huge but the calyxes are just not fattening up. You can see it in the pictures, they're very airy and overall not "sexy" looking, if you know what I mean. I hope that she finishes nicely since this grow went amazing so far. She is an absolute unit and I want her to finish perfectly. Let's see how she developes in the next 14 days. With 78 days, this plant is very old, but I've seen autoflowers getting harvested after 90 days or even 100 days. So I will just keep calm for now and I try to enjoy the last 2-3 weeks of her grow life. // Day 83 She is bulking up nicely. Unfortunately, I needed to remove 1 headbud from a side stem because I saw spider mite webbing... I hate that. The other buds seem clean, in general does this strain have not many pests on it. But they managed to set up a little camp in there so I removed the whole top bud of the side branch.

🌱🌱🌱Continuamos este cultivo, con esta hermosa cepa de FastBuds, Girl Scout Cookies Auto, de lleno en el periodo de Floración .🌱🌱🌱 👨‍🍳👨‍🌾🏻 Nutrición y Bitácora 👨‍🌾🏻👨‍🍳 -Día 43. Sigue aumentando el engorde de las flores y el aroma es cada vez mas intenso 👌. -Día 44. Se riega con 3 litros de una solución nutritiva NPK de Plagron Alga Bloom (6 ml) Plagron Sugar Royal (1.5 ml) y Plagron Green Sensation (1.5 ml). -Día 45. Los aromas se intensifican, ya seco el sustrato. -Día 46. Se riega con 3 litros de una solución nutritiva NPK de Plagron Alga Bloom (6 ml) Plagron Sugar Royal (1.5 ml) y Plagron Green Sensation (1.5 ml). -Día 47. Sigue todo excelente 🙌. -Día 48. Ya seco el sustrato. -Día 49. Se riega con 3 litros de una solución nutritiva NPK de Plagron Alga Bloom (6 ml) Plagron Sugar Royal (1.5 ml) y Plagron Green Sensation (1.5 ml). 🚀Equipamiento🚀 Indoor de 60x60x159 cm y una iluminación BlackCob F320, se activa solo 1 modulo (160w) a 45 cm del canopy por el resto del cultivo. Intractor de 135mm, extractor de 135mm, filtro de carbón, ventilador "oscilofan", ventilador "clip fan", este ultimo ventilador se ajusta en la parte baja de la carpa para mejorar la circulación de aire bajo el canopy, 2 termohigrometros y una malla SCROG de kanovi a 15 cm de la maceta. Acompáñenme para ver los resultados de este hermoso desafío, un saludo cultivadores 🔥🔥🔥

2025-09-18 Kush´n Cookies had a great Time- she doubled in size and biomass I gave her some training ( mix of mainline( supercropping and topping) and i started the Autopot-System so easy peacy from now on... Container: 35L Smart Pots Growing Method: Autopot System with "Water-Only" strategy 🌿 Soil Preparation Base Mix Recipe: 5g per liter soil - Startrex 5g per liter soil - Silicium Flash Mixed thoroughly for optimal distribution 5x Fertilizer Tabs - strategically placed near bottom (20cm height) for autopot compatibility 1 tsp Mycotrex - applied directly in planting holes Bactrex solution - used for initial watering 🏗️ Layer Construction Bottom Layer (10cm): Drainage material (clay + perlite) Air Circulation: Airdomes positioned Growing Medium: Pre-mixed soil with embedded fertilizer tabs Root Zone: Mycotrex application + seedling placement Initial Watering: Bactrex solution ⚙️ System Activation ✅ Setup Complete - Autopot system now delivering automated water-only feeding From this point forward: Pure water automation via Autopot system 🙏 Acknowledgments & Partnerships Special Thanks: Biotabs - Premium nutrient solutions 🏭 Puraplants - Autopot system provider 💰 Exclusive Discount Codes 🌐 Puraplants (Hamburg, Germany) www.puraplants.de Code: GrowBigger → 10% OFF Biotabs Webshop biotabs.nl/en/shop Code: GDBT420 → 15% OFF

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This week i did LST on the gorilla cookies. The nugs are starting to fatten on a couple. Looking good so far 😎. Also the yellowing went away after a good few days of flush. Now rhey are on half of the recommended does of nutes.

10/15 This week saw a few snags. Both gorilla zkittlez girls are showing what looks like a Mg def i.e yellowing between veins and green veins themselves. This isn't the first time they've exhibited these symptoms. Currently the heaviest affected leaves are the lowest fan leaves farthest from the light. Aiming to keep it that way. I think it's pH swinging too low. I need to pay more attention to my feeds but sometimes I don't have the time to pH my water as properly as I should. The reason I say it's that and not a deficiency is because they are also showing signs of over feed (yellow leaf tips) only a one half-strength feed did this. There must be plenty of food left in the pot. I'm thinking the flip is gonna come at the end of the week. I'll clean up some lower foliage tomorrow or Sunday and let them grow the rest of the week. 10 weeks seems like a nice round number to me. More pics coming when I do my defoll. 10/16 added some pics and vids

New light caused massive growth! Definitely stronger and cheaper than the last light

. 🌱 : LST and defoliation on day 49 💧 : 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :

Olá amigos, obrigado por acompanhar meu diário! Siga meu perfil, deixe seu like, comentário ou dúvida, ficarei feliz em ajudar se eu puder. Semana tranquila, as plantas foram transferidas da célula de germinação para o vaso de 1,2L. com Coco e Perlita. Uma das plantas saiu deformada e já eliminei do cultivo. Sigam também meu Instagram @casadasarvoresgrow Cultivo Medicinal pessoal. Não vendo, não dou e não compartilho. Mais um brasileiro em desobediência civil buscando na natureza a sua saúde

Grosse grosse defoliation Remise en place des branches Et passage en flo ! Dans l'ordre: 1) Afghan Peach x Blue Monkey 2) Gelato Cake 3) Fast Critical Poison 4) Tropical Fuel 5) Hindu Kush 6) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra) 7) Blueberry 8) Herz OG 9) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra)

Been wanting to try out this auto ghost og from original sensible seeds for a while and finally got the opportunity to get one wet. I originally started this setup to compete in the solo cup challenge, but I needed something that will be minimal maintainence and doesn't require hand watering. So this is what I ended up with. I will not be entering since I know it will bring controversy, but I am going to follow the rules and treat this grow as if I am competing. I didn't want to use regular solo cups because last time I had a lot of algae growing in the root zone when I harvested. I opted to use a black light proof cup. These cups were 27 oz originally so I filled them with 16 oz of water, marked the level, then cut them down to 16 oz. I set the drain pipes about an inch from the bottom so they have a little reserve if I have pump or power issues. I know people will see the drains as a way for roots to grow out of the cup but in reality I have to keep the entire pipe free of roots or it will clog and overflow. So I am actually losing a little volume due to this. I filled the bottom inch or so of the cups with river gravel to stop the perlite from washing into the reservoir. I am running a 5 gallon reservoir with a small air pump and the plants will be getting irritated 24 hours a day from an aquarium power head pump. I set the system up to be totally self contained and easily portable. It was all built from things I had laying around other than 97¢ for the cups. I will be keeping the feed simple as always feeding maxigro and maxibloom with a couple flower boosters.

Harvesting the cheese auto tonight 😁

7/11 Got half in of rain last night. Glad I didn't water. Ph of rain water is very acidic. Added supports to the blueberry cheese in the 50. I just used string and went diagonal and attached to the cage. Wrote a ton but it disappeared. Anyway looking at previous diaries I was wrong about senescence. It wad the life cycle of those earwigs that did that to my plants (see other diaries). This soil mix is amazing. These plants gave only gotten like two small feeds of big bloom. I showed my commercial buddy and I'll keep it between us what was said but it made me feel really good. I'm considering either expanding the cage in one direction with some lumber I already have or moving a couple outside tge cage. That way I have more room. He said he's seen plants structurally similar reach huge heights (14f) so I'm just trying to avoid future problems. I at least need to get the trellis on. I hope poor that's food enough. Did a real nice video this morning but nothing wanted to upload and it just uploaded the same one twice. I'll try again and hopfully it will go up. If not I'll put it up tomorrow. 7/12 Dad has surgery this morning. I did a quick video and took some pictures. I need to do some rearranging with the plants and cut a pallet to fit in the back. Then I can put a vertical trellis up. Haven't decided if I'll add on to the cage, remove a couple plants or just rearrange things but I'm leaning towards the later. They will need water again and I'm wondering if I should start nutrients but everything looks so good. By this time on past diaries I'd be losing all my leaves bu now. MI think it wad part ear wigs and part to many nutes. This soil mix is taking these plants through veg. I'll probably do a feeding soon but it will be organic and it will he small like a big bloom or ancient amber. Im leaning towards not using growbig this year as my plants seem to be doing great without it. We'll see. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: Went back over and gave plants a full watering. Some were slightly drooping. I was going to add nutes but decided against it as I didn't see any deficiency. So far NO Earwigs! I comed through the plants and I did find a jpn beetle which I happily killed. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and gave it to the 11 plants so it wasn't quite a gallon a plant. I need to rearrange the plants so I have room to move around. I also need to cut another pallet and use the spaces I'm not. Trellis needs to go up. 7/13 I think I've got the watering amount down. Now just to find how often which will depend on weather. I've watered very little this year. They loved that gallon. I was going to use big bloom and kelp me/you but looking at my garden I decided not too. My buddy asked what i was addingvthings for and to wait fir what i added to do what I wanted it to do. I see no nutrient deficiencies so why add anything? I think this soil mixture will get me all tgexway through veg. I dont plan on using much in fliwer either. Definitely good genetics. I really need to cut that palley and move the 1 10gallon to the far back coener. It will open thibgs up so much better. The garden looked so beautiful this morning. Getting very aromatic. I started untangling trellis netting but had to leave. I'll update what I do. Happy growing folks UPDATE: Went back over as I had a slight intuition that I needed to check the garden. I found and killed at least 7 jpn beetles. That's what's been making holes. They tried to escape and bounced off a tarp but I got it. I went through the interiors and found two pillars. If these beetles are gonna be around I'm ordering a net. I'm also close to positive I'm going to extend my cage in the back a few feet. Things are getting unmanageable in here. My buddy said I'll be having problems soon if I don't do something. I'll document what I decide to do. 7/14 Found ONE jpn beetle in the garden this morning. I can manage those well enough. The birds help too. I check my garden multiple times a day so I manually remove many pests. However I've noticed some thrip damage on a leaf and a leafhopper damage on "A" leaf so there are "some" pests around but not enough to spray shit. A couple wasps were doing there job while I was there. Supposed to get thunder storms after three and tonight. Supposed to get over a half inch of rain tonight. I lifted the bags and decided to hold off and let mother nature take care of it as the bags weren't totally dry. Only problem I really have is space. I AM moving that 10gallon (that's the same size as some 20's) in the back. There's 27in not being used and a few feet the other way. My buddy cautioned me that I'm going to have problems since my plants are so crowded. I agree with him. I spoke with me father and we have most materials to extend my cage four feet in the back. I think that's my plan. I'll extend the structure before the stretch then I can put up the supports. We'll see how this goes. UPDATE: Went back over to check the girls as I had a feeling I ought to. When I got there I saw that a couple of the blueberry cheese were pretty light (liftng the smart pot) but the others seemed to be fine. ONE 10th planet was light like that and the purple punch in the 10 gallon was as well. Each plant thar needed it got at least a half gallon of water. I'm waiting to see if we get the thunderstorms and the half inch of rain. I watered the MASSIVE blueberry cheese in the 50 but I only gave it 1 pitcher which is like 1/4 gallon or so. Don't know why I even gave it that. Looked fine but the soil WAS pretty dry. Next year I'm giving myself way more room. I was running trying to chase these jpn beetles. This time I have the dawn and water and a measuring cup to knock them in. This ain't my first rodeo. I did notice some bright yellow streaks on a leaf edge and I'm hoping it's not septoria. I doubt it but I have an anxiety disorder and I worry. I hope I can get the cage extended sooner rather than later. It's getting hard to move in there and more importantly I can't take any more plant pathogen problems. I'm considering starting a plant doctor regimen just to be safe. 7/15 Got a bunch of rain last night. No jpn beetles in the garden and not really much damage. I did notice this (I think it's leaf hoppers) that leave those dots close together on a leaf so it appears I've got a variety of pests. I'm considering how to approach this. I mean the damage is very minimal but I don't want it to get out of hand. Another thing I need to look out for is leaf septoria or any other fungal pathogens. I believe that has been part of my problems in the past. I think that's what caused my earlier grows to drop all their leaves so quick. I think I'm being overly cautious but its very crowded in there. With my father just getting out of surgery the girls will need to wait a little bit before before I can extend the cage. I could still cut the pallet and move the 1 10gallon and that would give more room. I rearranged a LITTLE BIT so they have a little more room but I've really got to get this cage extended. UPDATE: IT Rained so hard I had to pull the car over. We hydroplanned the whole way home. After working ob my house I went to see what the damage would be like. NOT A SINGLE BREAK THAT I COULD SEE. I took a video but since the wifi here sucks I'll have to upload it tomorrow. Walking around in the cage even if I cant get it extended I think I'll be OK. It obviously will open me up to lots more issues but at the very least I can reorganize before I build on. The 10 gal purple punch would fit perfectly in the back and I have a pallet I can cut to fit it in place. Putting that one back and pulling the others forward will be much better than what I've got going on now. I'm also thinking about running an extension cord and putting fans under the canopy or at an angle to keep the wind moving. Just thinking outloud. However after that storm the girls looked as happy as I've ever seen them. All happy praying to the sun, thankful for the much needed rain. Mother nature does a pretty good job with out me messing with it. I've noticed a couple interior lowest leaves turn yellow and die like a nitrogen deficiency but everything else is fine. Also noticed a leaf that looked like a p deficiency but again, it was the VERY bottom leaf on ONE plant. Again the rest of everything looks fantastic. I'll keep an eye out for anymore nutrient deficiencies and if anyone that reads this sees some please let me know. I should've taken stills since they looked so good but I got it on video. 7/16 It POURED last night and throughout the day. TORRENTIAL rain. The branch breaking sheet rain that us outdoor growers learned to fear. My plants aren't trellised currently. I know what I need to do now. I have a pallet to put in the back corner and I'm moving the purple punch in the 10 there. And pulling others forward where there's more room. Then when I extend it (it's gotta be done this week) everything g will be in their proper place and I can just throw on a vertical trellis. I also noticed more (leafhopper) damage on a leaf. Different leaf of the same plant so I'm considering spraying something. I have a number of products but I was trying not to use them. Luckily I have these diaries so I can look back and see certain plants reactions to certain nutes or fungacide/insecticide/nutes and the doses used. I haven't been using much but if my plants will remain cramped I'm going to start the plant doctor. I'm seeing more pillar damage too but BT is super narrow so I'm thinking when I fo spray for pests I might use cap jack and be done with it. Then I can apply the BT in flower if it's necessary. I took a video but I have to wait until tomorrow to upload. I took a quick snapshot though. 7/17 Despite the torrential rain I don't have any breaks. I'm noticing more pest damage though. Another leaf on the same plant had those closely shaped round circles. I forget what pest it is but it's there. Caterpillars are there I'm sure so I may do a preclcentative spray. Just unsure what I'm going to use. I lost a COUPLE very bottom interior leaves that look like they just got used up. After this rain I think think the plants might benefit from a feeding. Probably next water after they dry out. I REALLY need that cage extended. I expressed that today and it should be done this week. I'm looking for pallets today. I have the little one that I can put in the back which will allow me to move the 10 gallon and move the other forward. That will help some but I need more room. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT A SMALL PALLET AND IT FIT PERFECT IN THE BACK ROW. I MOVED THE PURPLE PUNCH IN THE 10 GALLON ONTO IT. I SHIFTED A BUNCHVIF THINGS AROUND. I ROTATED ON BLUEBERRY CHEESE 180 DEGREES SO IT WOULD FIR BETTER. CROP ROTATION IS GOOD ANYWAY. I TOOK VIDEOS AND YOU CAN NOW SEE THE ROWS MUCH BETTER. 2 WITH 3 and 1 WITH 4. IT'S SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN IT WAS. I CAN GET AROUND ALL SIDES OF EVERY PLANT NOW. GRANTED THE LARGE 50 IN THE BACK IS GOING TO HAVE SOME TROUBLE BUT ILL JUST STAKE IT TO THE CAGE. IT WILL GROW TOWARDS THE SUN ANYWAY. IM SUPRISED I DIDN'T LOSE A BUNCH OF LEAVES AFTER THIS RAIN. MOVING THINGS AROUND AND LOOKING ON THE INTERIOR OF PLANTS I FOUND A COUPLE LEAVES THAT HAD BEEN USED UP. I REMOVED A COUPKE LEAVES THAT HAD DONE THEIR JOB. I'LL UPDATE AS I GO ALONG.

Welcome to my MilkyWay F1 Topped/Untopped Diary sponsored by RQS. Topped/Untopped Phenos 1/2 Pre Flower Days 12-15, Flower Days 1-4 Days 57-64. Plants are quick. Didn't put on much height during pre flower. 43 cm for the Topped (pheno 2), and 41 for untopped (pheno 1). The pistils surprisingly are 50/50 amber/white. They're in the fattening stage only a few days. I've added co2 for 12hrs and then they are going under my P1000 for 6hrs. Hoping to see some big buds. They are moving quickly. So, let's see. I've added a 13-14 PK booster from plagron with a few of their other products. With the 12hrs of extra heat and co2, they'll be needing a lot more nutrition. Diet/Defoliation/Temperature Was on a Full Plagron natural line and a few of their other products, and I've added a 13/14 PK booster, with fish force and a few others. I done a 10-15% defoliation removing many fan leafs, focusing on the middle to allow better airflow was done after pre flower. And more will be done coming into her next week "10" and light lollipoppoing at the end to clear any possible larf areas was done this wk. So, what's therenow will be brought to harvest, a lot is very far away, so I need to get a blue HID I think to control tight Inter nodes in veg, I'll do this as I gain more experience. 28-29c is maintained for the co2 addition and under the P1000 the temp is brought back down to 26c with no additional co2. And ppfd is lowered to 850 ppfd but its a deep penetrative led light I'll give it that. Actually it carries the highest ppfd into your canopy than any 100w out there, and this is the 2021 version. They've an upgrade. Much respect to Vipar, this light and the Spiderfarmer have been my veg lights the past Yr, and this yr I've used these both and they've produced some quality bud. The cbg is done fully under them and the plant is amazing. Diet, Shes on the Full Plagron Natural line, soil and all. "Pro mix" with mega worms to add later. With PK, green sensation, fish force, power roots, vita race, "dummies sent me 2x of these instead of Start" Silic Rock, Pure Zym Sugar Royal. And Terpinator. "Power Roots has been pult, its time recommended by plagron. The roots are plenty and they drink close to 1L of fluids a day. Normally I don't like given so much stuff. But all are different, (expect Terpinator and SR they've the same purpose but its only 1 feed of the Terpinator a wk, by itself 370ppm 6.1ph 15.5c temp.. Co2 Co2 is maintained at 1000-1300ppm for 12hrs. And then when they go back under my p1000 they get ambient co2 levels 675ppm. The co2 is been ate at 350ppm every hr. Mind you most of these girls aren't hitting a high ppfd that's needed to convert into sugars. I've shuffled my 3 fans. 2 fans 1 on the top left blowing above canopy and 1 on the other side. A small one is at the bottom that keeps the heavy co2 off the ground. And my moving my fans, the co2 went from 1000 to 1300 shows, right air-flow is paramount. Thankfully I've a sensor that reads every second and is so sensitive it allows you to move your fans and shows how much longer co2 lasts if kept at an level with the foliage.. WARNING: Co2, is no joke. You can die from inproper use. I fully advise if anything you get a top sensor at least to known your levels and then you can jerry rig whatever. If not using a full kit. I highly urge to have it only in use while you're there to monitor it. No way should it be left on. As co2 is heavy it'll flow down your stairs and your beloved pets will be the 1st to suffer. It doesn't take a lot of gas even from a 1L bottle to fill a 12x12M room to 500ppm.. mine does 3x1L bursts every hr at 0.00001L a burst. Thanks to my rep James's for the seeds & merch. The rolling tray is constant use. My bird sings its praises. The grinder, possibly the best out for grinding. Goes through wet bud like dry. It grinds it that well. When I'm trying the get a small of her tetpine profile. COUPONS Spider-Farmer "ggst" EU (for now) 3% Mars-Hydro "ggs" WW 3% Zamneisa "GROWITGD" 20%

At the beginning of the second week, one of them started to completely freak out and mutated with all the impossible possible symptoms on the leaf pattern. I think maybe the soil life, i.e. the microbiome, was still too busy in the process of conversion and metabolism. And experience has shown that the Trichoderma bacteria usually take different amounts of time to symbiotize with the seedling and substrate. Also Myccorhiza.

Cuando se trasplantó fue la mas pequeña de todas las plantas del jardín y sigue conservando esa característica, aunque resalta por su originalidad 😁🍀

My homework. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration.Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems.

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