Check this videos all are same technics

ENGLISH BELOW ESP: Estas dos mangos fueron preciosas de cultivar. Cogieron un tono azulado y algunos pétalos se volvieron de un color rosa muy fuerte. No fue difícil de cultivar aunque la empezara en octubre, tuvo la visita de algunas orugas pero no causaron casi ningún daño. -Empecé el cultivo en octubre, esto y la falta de luz hizo que mis plantas no llegaran a la altura deseada, no tuvieron todo el sol que necesitaban y se espigaron. Les hice un corte FIM a una planta y apical a la otra, lo cual hizo que las puntas desarrollaran una forma curiosa. - El producto final son 23,3 gramos de cogollos no demasiado prietos pero muy resinosos y con unos colores preciosos. - El sabor es algo difícil de definir. En el sabor no he encontrado el coco, pero sí las frutas tropicales, mango y cítrico. Y me parece haber saboreado algo de hierbas. Es un sabor agradable aunque solo lo haya curado durante tres semanas. -El colocón es indico, pero empieza como algo cerebral y se va extendiendo por el cuerpo pero sin dejarte k.o. A mí me ha convencido, he disfrutado cultivándola, la recomiendo a quien esté pensando en probarla These mangos are amazingly gorgeous. They took a bluish tone and some petals turned a very strong pink color. It was not difficult to grow considering that I planted it a little late, I only had the visit of some caterpillars. There are some pics of one of them. -I started cultivation in October, this and the lack of light caused my plants not to reach the desired height, they did not have all the sun they needed and they sprouted. I made a FIM cut to one plant and apical to the other, which caused the tips to develop a curious shape. - The final product is 23.3 grams of buds not too tight but very resinous and with beautiful colors. - The taste is something difficult to define. In the flavor I have not found the coconut, but the tropical fruits, mango and citrus. And i think i tasted something herbal. It's a nice taste even if I only cured it for three weeks. -The high is indicated, but starts as something cerebral and is extending through the body but without leaving k.o. It has convinced me, I have enjoyed cultivating it, I recommend it to anyone who is thinking of trying it00

I use face clean cotton to germinate the seeds , After 3 days the roots came out 3 cm and then I place it in my own mixed soil.

Act III - Week 11: The Dame Finally Breaks Bad Hallelujah, folks! Our dame finally saw the light – or rather, the lack thereof. Flowering has begun, a slow burn that's more like a smoky confession than a fireworks display. Big shoutout to all the growmies out there who kept me calm during this green-fingered fiasco. Still, gotta be honest, this is some seriously late blooming for an "auto." My outdoor non-autos have also started flowering. Looks like this dame had her own schedule, one that wouldn't be rushed by sunshine or a well-timed trim. Growth slowed down this week, a respectable 4cm. She's putting all her energy into those precious flowers. Speaking of which, tiny shoots have started popping up all over – another sign our dame's finally embraced her floral destiny. Rain and sunshine, both in abundance this week, seem to have given her the push she needed. But the question remains, folks – will this late bloomer be worth the wait? Stay tuned for Act III, where the stakes are higher than a penthouse with a bad view, and the harvest moon hangs heavy in the smokey air.

Harvest Time Give few days, Let soil dry out and chop

Welcome to 📅 Day 22 of veg 4/5/2021 and boy am I happy with the growth on the girl under the MH TS1000 she is growing fast and strong and that's just what I want to see later today I will be mixing a new batch of nutes but that's about it Update 📅 Day 25 of veg 4/8/2021 she is still growing very fast under the TS 1000. I have done some more LST as she grows. I have noticed some problems in the leaves but it is very little and I hope it will not get worse only time will tell. Happy growing and keep your stick on the ice 🏒

Hi Growmies, Here we are at the four-week mark of our Epic Buzz's vegetative stage. I must start with an apology for missing last week's update. Rest assured, our Epic Buzz has been far from neglected during this time. This week's entry is a celebration of resilience and flourishing growth. Let’s delve into the details: Despite the reservoir not being changed in the last 14 days, our Epic Buzz has shown remarkable resilience. A modest addition of Orca and a bit of boost to feed the fungi has been more than sufficient. The plant has become a spectacle of health within the reservoir, developing an intricate root ball and sporting sizable fan leaves. This vigorous growth is a clear indicator of the strain's robust genetics and its compatibility with the hydroponic environment. All side branches have been intentionally removed to direct the plant’s energy towards vertical growth, a technique that's paying off with the plant’s current stature. The light intensity remains at a conservative 25% to encourage stretching. This cautious approach is shaping the plant into a true beauty, with an ideal structure that should transition well into the flowering stage. As we edge closer to the flowering phase, anticipation builds. The plant’s current vigor gives me high hopes for its performance during blooming. The sight of the Epic Buzz in its vegetative glory is a promising prelude to the potential explosion of flowers. I apologize for the gap in updates, but I assure you, the progress of our Epic Buzz has been unwavering. Its current form is a testament to the strain's excellence and adaptability. As we approach the flowering stage, I can't help but feel excited about the possibilities that lie ahead. Stay tuned for the next entry, where I'll cover the transition into flowering and the ongoing evolution of Epic Buzz's growth journey.

Week 6 6/20/22 - 6/26/22 Day 39 of veg Midway week #6 6/23/22 (today)

Growing so strangely.

Week 18 for Gelato 41 by seedstockers She's just becoming a monster... i know i went through a period of barely feeding her... well this week she's been fed 5-7L of water plus heavy heavy sprays every night😂 so a bit of a change up she doesn't seem phased either way. Im a little worried when it comes to flowering because she barely/never gets wind & her branches aren't very strong. Which is one of the reasons I spray them heavy every evening to build some strength. She also needs a nice defoliation again to keep PM away + also need to start thinking about giving her flower dry amendments top feed because i think she's partly going into flower because of the shade.

Week 3 Day 1: 8/16/25 Fed with nutrients : 8/15/25 Flushed with sledgehammer: 8/18/25

Day 1 of week 9 in flower. I took some close up pictures of trichomes yesterday they are at the end of week 12. Judging the looks of the trichomes I can go longer before flush/ harvest. The buds are slowly adding weight. The plant smells great I am happy with the progress. I will be lowering my center light down to 15cm for the last 10 day push. Early in veg the plant has a Indica look to it and its leaves. Late in flower the leaves look more Sativa. Friday May 14th I will check trichomes tomorrow which is the end of week 9 in flower. End of week 9 trichomes are getting there. One more week will be 10 weeks in flower the estimated flowering time. Video for comparison tomorrow first day of week 10. Buds are defiantly gaining size as branches bend from their weight.

After repotting and topping 2 mire times,shes shining again,one more week before the switch to flower.

I just cut her down like 3 weeks ago. Gd was having update issues. It had pretty purple flowers. They had a nice layer of resin on them. I will update more when I do the smoke report, and have it processed and ready. Thank you Gen1:11, Medic Grow, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️ Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Even though it says 80 Gallon pot, it’s really 400, it just glitches out when I enter 400 and converts to say only 80. I know she looks bad! I know. She has only been managing a nutrient lockout with horribly low pH for far too long! The Hydrated Lime has indeed fixed the pH! Resulting in my next inbound set of problems. The original soil from the second 2.3L pot she was in was too strong! She needs to get her roots out into the larger pot, but that only gives her so much more space. Plus in that larger black plastic pot, the hot dry sun at 7,000 ft in elevation, really heats up those pots! When it’s 98F later, that sounds like torture! Maybe it was enough to balance out the more concentrated stuff towards the inside of the root mass. But I don’t want her roots to stop there! The time is now for her to go into the 400!!! The soil is 6.5 pH through and through. The peas are about to bloom! She has just avoided lockout and is picking up momentum! The 400 gives her a huge diameter for her roots! Something I sincerely hope her genetics will take advantage of. The soil is rich and alive! The temps in 400 will be so much better! Now I must prepare for my Arch Nemesis! The Butterfly!!!!!! Lol But seriously. They find my plants attractive, and decide to serve my plants as food for their offspring!!!! Not okay! Last year their success rate on my plants was a fat 0!! But they did some serious damage! I am prepared this year!! I will watch with vigilance for any butterflies around my plants specifically. I will spray my plants down regularly with diatomaceous earth! Not too much obviously! I know less is more when spraying that stuff! No mother wants to give her children food with razor blades in it! And as always there is always next year! I can’t let a phase of mice and men get the better of me. However!!… that’s what I said LAST YEAR!!!! Lol. This year IS next year! Anyways she looks rough right now on Day 58 but I tell yah what, she has very recently made a dramatic turnaround for the better!! …I hope! Happy Growing! StrongTrees💪🌳

Fed both on Day 46. The Caramel cream likes to EAT! R/O is high again. I’ll monitor again during the week to see if this is an issue. Day 50: ph water feed w/ calimagic. Moved into larger tent to prepare for flowering soon. Added additional lighting as well flowering. Grow on.

Aug 16: Mimosa Shot is progressing but it has been cool and rainy lately. There are indications of P deficiency because of the cool weather. The top dressing of malted barley and Power Bloom will do its thing so I’m not worried about it. Hoping for more direct sunlight though.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.