The 4 Blueberry Hill were grown with 2 Banana Pudding all from Herbiesheadshop...Love all there seeds they have to offer...these were Herbiesseeds..the Banana Pudding came in the desert mix and the Blueberry Hill came in there female pack...I was happy with the grow they are not the biggest producer's, ( I've had way bigger) but all together the taste and the buzz are all there on both.....Seeing these came from Herbies line and never grew any from them, I was happy....No problems throughout besides some bananas popping out on one of the Banana Pudding plants...go figure.....But it did no harm do to the girls almost being done and not enough time for that to hurt the plants.... The total bud time from the time I changed the light cycle...was 52 days for the first Blueberry Hill, then 53 for a Banana Pudding, then 54 and 55...Then the last plant I waited and let ripen up which she didn't come down until day 68 with all kinds of amber on her. The total amounts on the 4 Blueberry Hill dried, Jared, and burped.....I don't weigh wet weed....was 24 ounces. 2 plants produced a little over 7 oz a piece....1 plant produced 6 oz and the smallest one that is first in the video produced a little over 4 oz....Not a bad little grow.. Until next time, smoke a fatty, help out your fellow grower.

Hello mate growers, All was fine this week, In this end week stretch start to be impressive, I up lamp each days, #3 is really biggest than others. I continue to give 2l water/pot 1 time grow tab + water 1 time grow tab + sugar royal + water Each 3/4 days I up a bit my power lamp each days, I'm now around 75% I'll probably remove some leaves and buds in shadows, next week, And start bloom fertilizer, Have a good week mates!

Hey Leute, Woche 6 ist im vollem Gange!!! Den Ladys geht es soweit ganz gut, sie haben sehr viel Durst durch die Hitze im Keller! Alle 3-4 Tage haben sie schon wieder richtig Durst nach 5 Liter Wasser. Leider habe ich es mal wieder zu gut gemeint mit dem Dünger, konnte aber noch schnell genug mit PH 5.8 Wasser gegen halten. Nach einer Kontrolle der PPM im Wasser hatte ich einen Wert von 4000 und mit diesem Düngeshema hatte ich schon drei mal gegossen… Ich versuche momentan die VPD einzuhalten ist aber schwer bei 30 Grad in der vollen Blüte bei 65-70% RL zu bleiben. Ich werde ab Mitte dieser Woche dann wieder mit dem Düngen beginnen. Wie man auch sehen kann, habe ich die Großen Fächerblätter noch entfernt, damit die ganzen Nährstoffe und Energie in die Buds geht. Beim nächsten Run, werde ich das erheblich früher durchführen, und beobachten ob ich dadurch auch so Riesen Buds erhalte wie andere. Die Lampe musste wieder auf 75% runter gedreht werden, einfach zu warm. Zum Glück etwas überdimensioniert, dadurch ein ppfd-Wert von 1400-1000 im Ganzen Zelt. Liebe Grüße, Fićo

Wir starten in die BW 5 Pflanzen sehen sehr gesund aus. LST ein wenig nachjustiert. Richtiger gesamt Bericht Ende der Woche

Adding this awhile after the fact... but me setup, bed is filled with small logs, sticks, leaves, hay, green grass, alfalfa, then redbud living soil on top 5lbs of worms added as well. Organic feeding, mainly lactic and baccilus, Kashi, knf inputs, fish shit, orca, king crab

Tag 63 - Beginn der 10 Woche. Die Blüte reift! Die Buds sehen super aus, sind dick und sind ordentlich frostig. Der Geruch wird auch immer schärfer und intensiver. Die Blüten duften süßlich und man schmeckt auch das Diesel schön heraus. Aktuell wird die Pflanze mit Flawless Finish gespült. Dabei gebe ich immer 1,5 - 2ml/l zum ganz normalen Gießwasser hinzu. Dieser Vorgang wurde bis jetzt 4x wiederholt.

11/26/24 11/27/24 this plant is blowing all expectations. this was the least promising looking pheno. these buds are so fucking dense. the trichomes are visibily standing ontop of the buds. the plant is 75% bud with 15% stem and 10% leaf. she is visibly fattening daily. i cant get over how hard these buds are though. the nodes are all growing into eachother and turning into long fat colas. absolutely beautiful genetics and im excited to see what the other phenos

Original Auto Amnesia Haze - She is very bushy and growing very well. One more week till flowering so the next watering will be with bloom nutrients :-)

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas finta F1 de ZamnesiaSeeds, que ganas que tenia ya de darles machetazo, me estaban dando muchos quebraderos de cabeza. Las flores no son para nada llamativas, una variedad más cruzada con rudelaris, que para mi gusto es perder el tiempo y el dinero invertido en cultivar cosas así… no merece la pena en interior, el ratio de gramo watio se me quedó en 0.5 , de los no peores resultados que tuve en los últimos 5 años. a sido una genética con la que no disfruté nada cultivarla, es complicada, es bastante sensible. Las plantas en sí se quedaron enanas y para nada fue lo que esperaba, me recordaron a las autos que plantaba en el 2012… Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

Week 13 (10-10 to 16-10) 10-10 Temperature: 27.4 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 82% (highest) 51% (lowest) Watering: 1250 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) The strength of the light is set to 90%, distance is at 29.5 cm / 37 cm. LUX: 22.300 / 27.300 11-10 Temperature: 26.6 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 74% (highest) 52% (lowest) Watering: 700 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 12-10 Temperature: 26.8 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 76% (highest) 60% (lowest) Watering: 400 ml. PH 6.5 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 13-10 Temperature: 26.8 degrees (lights on) 20.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 85% (highest) 60% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 14-10 Temperature: 24.9 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 74% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: None. 15-10 Temperature: 23.8 degrees (lights on) 18.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: 1200 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+) 16-10 Temperature: 23.5 degrees (lights on) 19.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 54% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: 1000 ml. PH 6.4 EC: 0.6 (without Hybrids & PK+)

Day 21

The cold weather and rain in the first two weeks definitely held these back. We had upper 70's F starting day 3.These girls are loving the warmer days and nights and have sped up their growth. More rain day day 4 then intermittently through the night and into morning of day 5. Day 6 we saw cooler temps and more intermittent rain in the evening and through the night. Day 7 temps stayed cooler and we had thunderstorms theater night. I added Diamond Brand Ferrous Sulfate at the above listed rate of 2.5 ml/gallon of soil in day 6. I distributed these granules evenly across the top of the soil. Using 7.6 pH well water creates challenges in keeping iron and phosphorus available to the plants. Adding this amendment acidifies the soil and provides a readily available and lasting iron supplement during veg.

Como bien dicen los de Sensi seeds esta variedad de White Label tiene entre 7 - 10 semanas de floración, por lo que mire una a una con un microscopio y estában casi a punto para cortarlas, realice un lavado del sustrato y ya se estan secando, volvere a regar con agua solo (ec 0,06) y cuando sequen de nuevo serán cosechadas, una variedad más que recomendable se quedan todas las plantas a la misma altura, distancia internodal muy buena, mucha resina y se ve buena producción, abrá que esperar a ver cuando pierdan el agua para hablar de la producción con un criterio más serio, el olor es a plátano maduro bastante fuerte a partir de la 6ª semana, en pocos días cosecharé, buenos humos👌

Buds are coming along nicely, they started off with a not so appealing smell but eventually started to smell very sweet. Increased dosage for increased blooming and ripening. Missed update for day 49 but vids from previous day makes up for it. Side note, I created a homemade Co2 bag with ingredients that is easily available and affordable. I don't think I let is have an effect on my buds but it sure did smell awful. After the 5th day, I got rid of it.

Day 59 - Seems since ropping up the res with nutrients the girls have taken well to it. They've started to fatten up considerably and are showing some nice colours. They are hard and sticky.. yield looks well on the first pheno. Day 60 - plants are getting on well, the EC is dropping which lets me know the plants are utilising the nutrients, pH slightly rising which again is a good sign. Leaves are changing colour too. I'll see what happens over the next few days, she should start to fade soon. Won't start flusing yet as she still has more to give. Stay tuned Day 63 - Girls getting on well, strong gassy smell from one of the phenos (left) and really sweet candy like aroma from the second pheno (right) actually smells so dank! 😄 Other thsn that, feeds have been dropped.. currently sitting around 0.5 EC. pH 5.8.. girls seem to like it there but I'd like it a little higher (6.0). They put on a lot of size from one day to the other which was nice to see. Can't complain really, I'll continue for now letting the EC drop and do a res change with plain RO water and let the plants flush fir a couple days. Planning for a day 70 harvest. Stay tuned

Cosechas asombrosas con XpertNutrients, el clima no ha ayudado pero ya tengo algo de hierba para fumar. Gran calidad,tiene un aroma muy potente a gasolina y fresas. Estoy deseando darle una calada, mas tarde actualizaré las notas de humo.

Alright grow cycle, mistakes, improvements, etc... She did stay in veg for too long, her growth was slow and not the best and so she took quite long, next time i'll be there from the beginning so I can take care of her throughout. But her growth is really fun. It is a tall growing sativa with fairly tight noding when trained accordingly, producing long filled colas. The buds grow fairly dense and fluffly but do air out a little when dried. Trichome production was pretty impressive as well as terpene production. She had thrips since her early days but did not seem to mind them at all. I did spray them initially but once flower started I stopped. I believe predatory mites might have been feeding on the pupae in the soil, if that is what this specific species of thrips did, the reason I say that is I could never see adults only larvae. Whatever the case maybe they were there but the population never really increased. Something I did not mention during the grow is that those plants were played music during the days, music that is apparently developed for plants. The 10L pot was WAY too small for a true sustainable living organic and to provide enough space for the plant, that was a mistake, I'd say a 20L would be the bare minimum and still. The bigger the better. The hempy transfer did not hurt the plant and I believe even helped to some extent, BUT, I am still running test on the subject and so can't confirm anything, here are my observations Roots did not colonize the perlite, a little on top and the sides but that was it, I was expecting to see a big root mass in there. I believe hempy are great for salt fert as it hold a soup of nutes where the plant can feed from since the coco only holds very little Whereas in nature most nutrient are in the top soil where the highest amount of decomposition happens, this is where the highest microbial activity happens and so where the plant will find food. Living organic is trying to reproduce nature and so there is no need for the plant's roots to gather at the bottom of the pot. Although it could have potentially provided the plant access to a larger amount of water and possibly more oxygenation of the pot. Those are all theories, please speak up if you have other proofs. In conclusion , unless i get proven otherwise by someone or my latest running experiment , I will not be using hempies again as I believe it brings more complication and issues than a simple fabric pot. The lights, The 600w at the start was good, then I decided to add a 400w...😂 That was completely overkill and not necessary. Waste of electricity. And they started suffering from too much light it seems at some point, I raised the light by a good 30 cm and they were fine. 600 is more than enough. I am happy about how the soil performed but it has room for improvements. As for the watering technique I have been watering large ammount every few days, next time I will be giving constant small amount of water each day and a soak every week or so, I believe the soil might perform better under those conditions. She was also an easy plant to harvest whit her long colas which had very little foliage, I do trim in excess as I like my buds extra clean but the buds are not excessively bushy. The trims were use to make some bubble hash, around 100g of wet trims yielded around 1.5-2g of bubble hash. I did add a negative effect but only because it wouldn't give me a smile otherwise, but to be honnest it barely dries your mouth. The soil is going to be recycled and reused in a next grow. I can't think of anything else at the moment but if you have any question don't hesitate.