Al corte ✂️✂️✂️

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

She looks extremely frosty and stink like good lemony shit it's crazy but she doesn't smell like the other phenotype I have of lemon pie,she smells very citric but very floral at the same time, very sweet, her sister smells just like moby dick. Can't wait to try this lady 😍

- Ich hab die erste Woche des Biobizz Allmix Düngeschemas gestartet und gebe wie immer erstmal vorsichtige 100%, da meine Erde an sich durch den Kompost recht potent sein sollte. - Außerdem hab ich mit meinem Calmag-Rechner mein Leitungswasser angepasst. Die Werte könnt ihr auf den Bildern sehen. - Den PH-Wert passe ich ebenfalls auf 6,5 an.# - Die Lampe bringt zur Zeit etwa einen PPFD-Wert von 350 - 360 µmol/s/m² bei 18 Stunden Beleuchtungszeit (DLI von 22 - 23 mol/d/m²). Sie wird aber nur eingesetzt bis es warm genug draußen bleibt. Tagsüber stehen sie jetzt schon draußen, sofern es nicht regnet oder stürmt. Die Guava macht sich hervorragend und sie ist sehr uniform mit den anderen Fastbuds Strains bis jetzt. Sieht gut aus finde ich 💪😁👍

Really looking forward to harvesting this girl. Trichomes and Terps are showing up nicely - very fruity - not detecting pineapple yet but really nice. On the grow - I can definitely see how it is not a nitrogen hog - actually would change the nutrients next time around as she’s darker than I would prefer at this stage so I’ve scaled back the nitrogen. Anyway - What started off as a really small, runt of a plant has blossomed into this magnificent 2 foot tall solid bud - not really bothered that I didn’t get time to top + LST

Sanlight EVO -3 60 190W at 40% Day 15: Looks OK, a little scrawny but oh well. She got a bigger pot yesterday 👌🏻 Day 16: looking a little better, IT was probably too cold outside in the morning. Started to Bring her outside later during the day🌞 Day 17: developing OK, did nothing today 👌🏻 Day 18: looking good 👍🏻 Day 19: watered with rain water and 1ml/l Root Juice + 1ml/l Powerzyme. Added Mycorrhizal and a little Dolomit Lime to the soil. Day 20: looking allright👌🏻 nothing to report for today👍🏻 Day 21: looking good 🤗 developing nicely👌🏻

90x60x140 (Mars Hydro) FC-E4800 (Mars Hydro) Easy2go Aquavalve5 (Autopot) Living Soil (Demetearth) Bruce Banner (PEV Seed) Gorilla GG4 (Ganja Farmer) Cream Caramel (Sweet Seed) Gorilla Gelato (Ganja Farmer) Blueberry (00 Seed) Kalini Asia (Zamnezia) Biscotti Mintz (Barney's Farm) Blackberry Cake (Sensi Seed) Amsterdam Amnesia (Dutch Passion) Gelato Cookie (Ganja Farmer) Purple OG Punch (Ganja Farmer) Sweet ZZ (RQS) Rainbow Road (Paradise Seed) Substrat ~50L: 30L Super Light Mix Biotechnologie 18L coco 2L perlite 1,7kg lombricompost 350g guano de chauve-souris 350g Zéolithe 350g Basalte 170g guano vers de farine 170g biochar 0,7g Endomychorise glomus intraradices 0,7g Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens Paillage de luzerne alfalfa Arrosage avec 2ml/L de mélasse de canne 1x par semaine Pulvérisation avec 1% d’huile de neem

May, 15th 2021 Some of the Hyper Glue Plants, wich were in the smaller continers, were transplanted into 3l They needed it, because some were yellowing, Roots were well developed, now they can go on for a few more Weeks . Keep Watering them with Beneficals, and Spraying one Time daily with "Fast Plants Spray" Thosse foliar Feeding drives them very well

Costa Mesa Haze is what I am renaming the "Vorneese haze" bag seed from my other grow diary. One of the best flowers Ive ever had in my life. Purchaed from HTC church in Costa Mesa, California in July of 2018. They arent a legit dispensary so they have zero clue who grew it or wtf is, or who grew it. I researched as much as possible and never found anything out. 12 Costa Mesa Haze 4 Blueberry Muffin Went a little OCD with this tent but figured after outgrowing the last one with randomly size plants I'd keep everything the same height as much as possible. Really focused on taking good cuttings of the same size knowing what I wanted this tent to look like. Only running the cree bulbs right now on the light letting them ease into things without stress. Will Veg for 4-5 weeks tops then 12/12.

Woche 4 Der kleinen Malibu OG geht es sichtlich gut. Aus 4 wird 8 gemacht. Damit sie den Stress etwas besser verkraftet gibt es vor und nach dem Schnitt Hesi Root. Ebenso noch einmal vor und nach dem anstehenden Umtopfen in 20l Stofftöpfe. Tag 26 Alles gut. Weiter so. Tag 28 Triebe werden leicht nach außen gebogen, aber nicht fixiert.

I advise everyone to try this!

They look good so far. I mixed a teaspoon of mega crop into the bottom half of soil prior to planting these babies hope things work out.

Purple lemonade is around the cornr for harvest. Ogkush is starting to flower and mystery straing is still in veg. Did some defoliating and lst again to even out the canopy

*Week 3 Flower - 09/10* Blimburn Apple Fritter - Seedsman Genetics Critical+2.0 Healthy - 0 signs on of deficiencies Most fan leaves have been stripped; - Lighter defoliation - Aggressive LST on main colas *Week 3 Flower Mid-week update 09/13* Approximately 3 inch increase in Height on both plants - Critical+2.0 - Seedsman Genetics - Blumburn Apple Fritter 1 Gallon increase on water feed (Nutes included) Budsite density has increased. Light defoliation *End of week recap 09/16* (Week 3 Flower) BlimBurn - Apple Fritter - 47 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Seedsman Genetics - Critical+2.0 - 46 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Increased water feed (2.5 gallons every day +Nutes) *SEE UPDATE END OF WEEK VIDEO RECAP*

They are all coming along nicely. I’m concerned that they are fading a little early. I’ve used the nutrients may add a bloom booster

Harvest in week 12. But I screwed up, I didn't have enough room to separate each variety, so I would put an average weight when everything was dry... I had done everything well, I had to mistake on the place of the drying bag Last pictures, mixed buds

This concludes the vegetative phase, I've set the timer to 12-12 and the flowering will begin tomorrow

Getting bigger and bigger... haven’t been feeding her very heavily but her leaves are darkening like the heavily fed mother plant. I think I figured out my problem finally, my pH meter was off and the pH of the water was way too low(4pH rather than the 6pH I thought I was watering). Buds popping up everywhere; ScrOG’ed her to have a bit more control over the grow. She takes up almost an entire 2x2 area of the tent by herself. I have four other plants in with her that I have to flower out. Plants in the flowering tent right now: Pineapple Express, two bag seeds(one I think is berry white and the other is either white widow or purple trainwreck... I mixed the bud up in the grinder so I don’t know which seeds came from what bud... I wasn’t expecting seeds at all since it was dispensary stuff but ended up with seeds in all three strains I bought that day)... I also have this purple trainwreck plant and one white widow plant all in varying weeks of flower.