2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

July 11: hail storm went through this afternoon and did some damage. Happened very fast, and was the next day after a big storm caused some flooding in the city and made the news.

Compost tea turned out well, let it go for 26 hours total and geared it towards fungal. Also took some soil samples several days later around the stalks and found a lot of nematodes and protozoa which is what you want to see. Lots of different types of nematodes so what your looking for are the bacterial feeders (there are charts online that show you how to identify them). Mycorrhizae can be identified by it's dark colour, uniformity and segmented nature. Testate amoebas live in a translucent shell like a snail and are easy to spot but hard to spot moving due to my shitty microscope, but look for the tentacles. Also found some eggs with movement inside, no idea what they are but they have vacuoles and flagella. She is really getting sticky and smelly now; berries with herb notes. You can see the resin stretching over the trichomes in the last pic. No signs of senescence yet so I'm not going to feed them, they should have plenty of food anyway as this is a second run of the same soil.

Por el momento solo estamos aplicando Bases Connosseur Grow. La fotografia de esta semana es la del ejemplar mas alto, cerca de los 18cm, no es un espigamiento; mas bien parece que es un ejemplar "grande" solamente, además es el ejemplar que mas consume agua. Adjunto video donde se aprecia junto a otra variedad de original sensible.

Loved

Sorry guys been lagging on posting because got a lot other stuff going on n I figured this plant would’ve been chopped by now but I must say she’s been filling out quite nicely..I lowered the light hours to try n see if thatll he’ll ripen her a bit faster as I’m looking to replace her with another plant

He elegido una red metálica. Es muy fácil de instalar y permite un control eficaz de las plantas. El resto es igual a cualquier cultivo hidropónico. Subo el nivel de nutrientes cada día.

Growing great now I went and got brand new 4x4 aci tent with the mars hydro FCE6500 light it's 730 watt commercial grade bar light and it fits wall to wall in the tent it's supposed to be for a 5x5 but heyy what the

Seems like the 75-85 day lifetime suggestion from fastbuds is on point and not a overstatement, (KEEP IN MIND THEY ARE FEED BY A DRIP SYSTEM FROM SAME WATER TANK / SAME NUTES) - pheno 1 chewed more nitrogen than her siblings since early on, she got a topleafs fade earlier than expected but she is forgiven because she is finishing crazy fast and feels like shes 2 weeks ahead of everyone else bonus point to her she smells strong and full of ice no matter the top fade, pheno 2 is doing avarage smells 100% same as pheno 1 but seems slower (no early fade full of trichomes too) - Pheno 3 🏅words cannot summon her up, she looks purple already and she smells like a elite photoperoid pheno hunt result, honestly id suggest fastbuds to ask me to cut a stem put it in a glass tube with gel and send it to them via mail to study or replicate her genetics if that is possible, i have never seen such absurdly 10/10 auto in my life, her smell is a John Jones punch in the nose, and not just me saying this ive shown it to my friends and they are shocked (keep in mind im a Berliner who is in toch with some of world LOUD hunter legends if yk yk) something was up with this pheno since sporut we dont know what that is but we want more of this one, she also loved the nute dose we gave her with zero problems . Pheno 4 is simmalar in smell with pheno 1 and 2 but her growth seems to be noticably slower she seems to be a bit behind id say 1 week, maybe because shes under the 6inch osculating fan and shes getting a bit less light she has 0 metabolism problems though so thats fine. Dont get me wrong pheno 1 2 and 4 smell strong and amazing too but miles away from pheno 3 and NO pheno 3 isnt a different strain put in the seed bag by mistake if you toch the stem 4 of the phenos have the exact same cherry cola smell pheno 3 is just the CHOSEN ONE.

I purchased these seeds along with 100+ others (individual seeds, not packs) in late 2006 and early 2007 by sending Western Union money orders to the UK in birthday cards along with my seed order. My only recourse was crossing my fingers and hoping that my seeds would eventually arrive. What I found was that the “Buy it Now” option on Seedbay turned out to be pretty reliable. They used to have a Nirvana 4 pack deal for a very reasonable price ($50, I think). European seed producers at the time were very guarded with the lineage in their crosses, but the common thought was that Nirvana was taking known elite Dutch cultivars of the time and breeding them with a Skunk #1 male and producing ‘knock offs’. AK-48 was AK-47xSk1, Blue Mystic = Blueberry x Sk1, Bubblicious = Bubble GumxSk1, Jock Horror = Jack x Sk1. The point being, there ended up being a lot of variation in packs, but also some keepers were there to be found. I did some growing at that time, but ended up buying a ton of seeds that I never used. As a daily user for almost 30 years now, self sufficiency made/makes a lot of sense. A couple years ago I decided to get back into growing my own herb after being disappointed and underwhelmed with the quality of flower from the dispensaries.

Started low stress training this week. Still doing every 2nd day nutrient feeding. Good growth so far. Let’s see how LST goes, only issue with LST is that plant keeps obviously growing towards sun. But I am monitoring it to check the angles it’s growing at.

Začátek pátého týdne holky začínají krásné vinit a bobtnat 😀

She was a breeze. Put up with early drainage issues and over feeding during veg. Responded well to all the training and snipping bouncing back each time. And gorgeous flowers during late bloom that smelled like hard candy. Full disclosure I goofed the bloom pretty bad. Late in bloom I put a new bulb in only to find out I never took the MH out from veg. Had a couple of strokes plus in colorblind so judge me lightly. Anywhos aside from me screwing the yield down to 42g with that mistake it was a kick ass experience. Definitely will grow Red Dragon again very soon.

SUMMARY: - overall everything went smooth but I overcompensated the LED height, I started too high (lack of extension cords), then I dropped them too low, ultimately burning the second set of "starter" leaves (after the cotyledon set). I didn't get the humidifier and climate to synergize in the way I liked either, but it went well overall. nov. 11 12:00 - third seed has still not been able to germinate, resorting to emergency soak in glass of bottled flat water 15:00 - seed taken out of glass back in damp paper towel nov.12 23:00 - put humidifier inside tent set to 95% but rH never got to 60% according to AC infinity's humidistat in between both smart pots at soil level - lowered lights from 30inch to floor to 20inch to floor - soil is 3.5" from floor - seedling canopy is 1.5" tall nov. 13 - 15:00 Grow tent climate stabilizing with the humidifier helping keep the rH between 50-60%, which is about 10% higher than before. - note: humidifier is set to max 95% rH on its setting, claims the rH is high around 80% but the AC humidistat right at the canopy claims it is closer to 50%. - Keeping the AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 controller set on 24/7 only on setting 2 - note: must be careful with the S6 active intake, as the ducting can drastically drop the cfm coming in, resulting in a rapidly increasing negative pressure which if left uncheck could force the tent to cave severely. It was very important to watch immediately when changing the inline fans speeds, and the ducting positioning to ensure a stable and safe pressure exists. - Temperature stable around 78F during 18H of LED light - soil is slowly drying up, its still significantly heavier than the empty pot, not quite moist so will have to see about watering, still trying to get those roots to work for it and avoid overwatering. - Turned on 6" mini fans to get the lanky stalks to dance a bit and strengthen, fans are about 2 feet away at 45 angle set on "normal" power nov. 14 19:00 - humidifier is able to get the tent to a low rH of around 60%+ nov. 15 14:00 - one hour after turning on lights without humidifier on and the rH drops from 53% (as it levels out to when lights are off for 8H) down to 40%. Nov. 16 17:00 - seedlings looking a little sad and in need of some water - the younger seedling’s leaves are starting to twist a little bit (like a propeller), this could potentially be from the mini fans moving them around. - gave both plants 3x waterings of 50ml each, over the course of 5 mins. Watered until run-off, soil was extremely light and dry as to encourage greater root growth. Water was measured at 6.92 and the run-off is measured at 7.21 for the younger smaller seedling but 8.14 for the larger older. Nov. 17 14:00 - seedlings had to sit in the room just under normal room lights as grow tent was set into final position and hooked up to the new ventilation going out of the house. - some potential concerns with the air exchange “leaking” cold air back into the tent - the concern is that the grow room sits around 70-74 during the warmest possible times - whereas, during the coldest possible times it is possible for the grow room to drop to 63, which is the lowest temp just outside of the danger zone - - 22:00 right now the fan settings are synchronized on 4 and humidifier set to 80% - it appears as if this setting will hold the rH around 60-70% and the temperature around 70-74F - grow room temp: 74 - humidifier: rH 78% - set to 80% - Older seedling getting some discoloured around the tips and a little bit of a brown tip - likely lowered LED too long, but they were out of the grow tent a few hours , so not worried at all and expect full recovery in 48 hours - Lights now 27 inch from the floor / 23 from canopy Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED (default 100 watt draw for seedling but will be bumped up to 125 Watt for flowering if not sooner) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Oscillating fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Timers: - 2x Kuman 15A/1800W 24-Hour Digital Timer

Thats a new experience for me. To grow and share the result. Im really like it. It's helpful, inspiring and have a great community! Thank for support, keep in touch for new grows!

La Etapa de Enraizamiento la desarrollo perfectamente igual que en crecimiento y en Floración, de 10 todo. Pensé que iba hacer difícil de cultivar ya que no es fácil esta genética. Recomiendo como ya dije al banco de semillas BSF y a Top Crop por los buenos productos! El 26/07 corte la planta para ya iniciar su etapa en secado, vamos a ir viendo como va surgiendo.

11/17 Week 10 Ripley - Starting her on the Soul Peak very soon, low dose 5ml see how she takes it will reduce CocoTek on just her by 3ml/gal at that dose. Keep defoliating her gently, dozen of so leaves every day or so just to keep buds open to light. No visible problems Tara - The Beast - Ok now it officially the largest plant we have grown to date. With the pot its hitting 4 ft 8 in without 3 ft 2 in. The stretch has finally slowed to a stop and buds are beginning to quickly build... thank you God. I was really wondering what I was going to do next. Am going to have to bind her up a bit just for support tomorrow as those buds get heavy and she needs to give Ripley some room. Also cleaning the heck out of the lower end tomorrow. Keeping her CocoTek at current level with a Cal-Mag foliar every few days 1/19 Foliar Cal-Mag feed on Tara Cleaned out the bottom of Tara, first pass at least see how it turns out. Decided to put Tara on the same feed as Ripley see what happens as Ripley is building buds faster with the PK cant say that would hurt Tara, No def so may as well May be early but heck what do I know, on new ground here 1/20 So far so good, cleaned up Tara a bit and bound her up to give support and room for Ripley. Buds building nicely crap load of them Ripley doing well in the pK so will continue her protocol by slowly reducing CT and inc PK 1/21 Noticing some mag def on Tara and random Ca spots so getting a dose of Cal-Mag 3ml/gal as well as the foliar. 1/22 3ml/gal CalMag added to Tara feed reduced CT 2ml/gal Ripley on 5ml/gal CocoTek AB and 10ml/gal Peak getting her ready for flush 1/23 Going to try alternating between adding 3ml Cal-Mag to Tara's feed and foliar with same. Not a bad Mg problem but obviously one I cant ignore given its Ca as well. Ripley on 6.1 Water and 15ml/gal Peak one more day then flushing to start week 11

Hi guys, what's up? Welcome back to my diaries. My experience with this pheno has been just amazing and I wish I had a ton of these gems by now!Really very resinous, tight and compact buds .... With spectacular colors and aromas that ... mmmmmm already make you dizzy I'm sure we'll re-propose this delicious plant on a large scale!

The tallest pheno is ready and being flushed for a couple of days now, rhe others are close but still consuming nutrients at a strong rate , I think they will take at least 1 more week. They smell very much like gelato as a group but are all very different from one another .