The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Fed and defoliated to start week 7. The plant looks good, the buds are on point, frosty, sticky and look as expected at this stage of the grow.
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เธอค่อนข้างเติบโตช้า แต่ไม่เป็นไรหรอกฉันรอเธอได้เสมอละ ฮ่าฮ่า
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@StarLorr
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Welcome to my Cherry🍒Cola diary. In this Diary: Seeds: [420 Fast Buds]from my growmie Tropicannibis_Todd 👊🏻😎 Media: Pro~Mix HP Open Top Grow Bag, Connect. Nutrients: Green Planet Nutrients, 2 Part Dual Fuel starter kit. RealGrowers: Recharge. Diablo nutrients: Ripping. Feeding : Wed 13Mar: 3 1/3L Nutes/Recharge pH'd 6.5 Sat 16Mar: 2.6L Monster K,Blaster pH'd 6.5 ___________________________ __________________________ She's so gorgeously filled with buds!😋 ___________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated.👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨
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Growdiaries deleted this section (don't ask me why). So everything in this week is from the top of my head (like 2 weeks later): Environment This week, I went back to watering (gently) to get the soil used to a ‘normal’ assimilation rate again. As a result, the temperature dropped slightly, while the relative humidity increased at the same time (which was of course elevated by the fact that I removed the sand at the end of last week). Plants + Training Gentle defoliation continued this week. However, it became apparent that Mimosa Cake Auto requires significantly more attention than Gorilla Z Auto, as it grows incredibly densely and intertwines. It also seemed like the Mimosa Cake Auto was about to crack due to the high forces (no space to bend and stretch because everything is just nodes and side branches). *Gorilla Z Auto was ??? cm tall, Mimosa Cake Auto ??? cm. Organisms As you can see, microbial life is still in full swing. Numerous springtails can be seen (yellow sticky traps), Oribatida are decomposing organic material, etc. Living Soil To check the most important indicator of healthy soil life, I carried out a pH test this week. This showed a value of 7, which is slightly too high but definitely within an acceptable range. [Living soil should be between 6 and 7, ideally 6.4–6.6.]
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This strain had to suffer a little bit at the end of the cycle due to a fungus gnats issue but she managed great, her buds are really citrussy and dense and she has grown at a very fast pace in her vegetative stage. I really hope you guys enjoyed, this lady has been grown with kush FLO (Living soil blend) and water.
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2 Girls 1 Cup week 7 is it? How time is flying by. Day 42- still eating like pigs, so I'm bumping up the formula and doing 50/50 tap/RO for now on. Bubbled of course. Spots of calcium deficiency on GC here and there for the last week and I have seen a few spots on WG also. Still used 5mL calmag per gal as max dose to hopefully keep spotting from spreading. Raised my bucket to 374ppm prior to nutes. Decent defol tonight and I got a net back out to hold these down and spread em out as much as possible. One branch on WG has taken over as the main I guess and it's hard as f. Only place it's going is up lol.. 22in from the light as of RN, getting 37.2 DLI. Going to work up to 40 this week and see how they like it. GC really needs to hurry up. Can't let WG get too amber and can't leave dead rotting roots in the system right? Crossing my fingers GC hurries TF up in the end, or it may get cut early. RES change around 6pm tonight, modified week 2 bloom GHE medium. Breakdown as follows: 2gal water/calmag - 374ppm Hydroguard - 5mL Micro - 12.6mL Grow - 12mL Bloom - 15mL RES totals after PH corrections - 1453 @ 5.71. Plants 14in ^ Lights 22in ^ DLI 37.2 =========================================================================================== Day 43- McGuiver'd some external RES together tonight. Waterfarm site tube is now extended into a return line to the external RES. Small cat drinking fountain pump in the base of the external with a 1/4in fitting plastic welded on the 3/8 outlet of it. This thing trickles, just like I wanted. 1/4in line runs to my old fill port on the front of the waterfarm. Constant circulation from one res to the other. Waterfarm started life as a 2gal RES system. Roots fill it up and take up precious space. Roots were even coming out of the site tube lol. When I pump it out for a change lately, Im barely getting a gallon... side res and waterfarm combined now hold a little over 4gal now with the root mass filling a large portion of the farm. Ill actually measure one of these times. If I raise the farm up more, I can hold more in the side RES. 4 or so should cut it, they don't have much longer right? Filled with same formulation as last fill, just 4 or so gal instead of 2. Mixed 5, left with 1? in the bucket when I hit fill line. This may help conserve some water once I finally get their EC dialed in. Not only do I play my plants music throughout their day, I even sing to them from time to time.. Hopefully I don't lose any watchers with my horrible singing in the vid tonight 🤣🤣 =========================================================================================== Day 44- Why didn't I start this experiment off with an external RES? Damn the stability of more volume is a definite PLUS! Haven't had to adjust PH or top off 2 or more times a day since. Been letting the level drop and watching numbers while keeping PH in check. I think I've finally found a stable EC too. For now anyway. Water level drops, EC drops slightly, ph rises slightly. Taking almost 24hrs to swing from 5.61 up to 6.12 instead of 8-12hr. Been thinking about cutting back GC and just keeping it alive so dead roots don't disrupt WG but let WG finish as best it can. GC is THAT far behind from the looks of it. Trimmed em both up late in their day yesterday. Open it up a bit so the lowers on WG can bulk up too. Adding to the list of things I should have done differently and will share at the very end. =========================================================================================== Day 45- ditched the net AGAIN tonight. No leak, shit was just annoying being in my way. Also been thinking ALLOT about my choices in life... latest is why did I plant two diff strains in the same pot and how can I make the best of it? They don't grow at the same rate or eat the same. WG is a PIG! Thought long and hard and have made the decision to cut back GC some to give WG her room to bloom. WG didn't stretch much and GC is still going. Keep supercropping it to keep it out of the fan and same distance from the light as WG. I have to keep both alive till the end, unless I throw in the towel on GC at WG harvest and chop em both. Really don't want to waste the experiment, so I may get creative at the end. Only have the one tent and was planning on drying in it since I've got the closet its in dialed in. Really don't want to make a cardboard dry box... =========================================================================================== Day 46- Going to wean these girls off the N next RES change. GC is starting to stretch more, and still refusing to make the transition. maybe less N will do the trick?? kick up the bloom a bit as well. WG is ready for it for sure. GC may have an issue with it, but she'll survive. gave em both a defol before lights out today. heavier on GC than WG since WG isnt bushing up as fast as she used to. the light frosting is getting more populated also. side RES is working out beautifully! =========================================================================================== Day 47- little prune on GC today to keep it out of WG's way. Plucked a few here and there off WG to keep it opened up. Colas everywhere! Going to be one short dense plant that's for sure. If GC gets to a finish, it's going to be a bunch of popcorn from the looks of it. Time will tell. =========================================================================================== Day 48- light prune on GC to keep it out of the way, since its decided to be like 3wk behind WG. maybe tonights RES change will punt it in gear, and itll start exploding in flowers... yeah, i smoked before typing this so the pipe dreams are real on this one.. dialing back the calmag plus (since it has N in it) to 4mL a gallon. dialing back the N in the modified formulation from GHE week 3 "mid bloom" medium feed. formulation as follows: Tap/Zero Water - 2.5gal/2.5gal 81ppm calmag plus - 20mL ^ to 307ppm Micro - 26.5mL Grow - 26.5mL Bloom - 41mL RES totals after PH corrections - 1148ppm @ 5.63. Measured the total volume needed to fill both the waterfarms RES and the external RES and it came to 18.4L. i scooped nearly every drop out of the side RES, but didnt even tilt the waterfarm. so there was prob a quarter to a half gal left in the farm. safe to say roughly 19L capacity. a HUGE increase from a measly 8L from factory. thats before roots fill the RES too, leaving you with NOTHING for water/nutes. so ill have to measure once again when the system is empty and see the true total volume without fillers. tis the end of week 7 i suppose. i will update the timelapse tomorrow afternoon to wrap up the week. i have a 3 week day 27-47 vid on YT if you're actually reading this and want to see the up to date clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKtqPxKeMNM *edit* looks like GC is finally starting to hit the transition harder closer to end of the day today looking at vid.. =========================================================================================== As always, thanks for stopping by and checking out my current grow experiment. If it's your first time, check out previous weeks for their daily updates, pics, timelapse, blah blah blah.. you still reading this shit?? 🤣
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So, they’re still growing vertically, again, I had to go away for 3 days. Not planned. Tops got too close and a load of them burnt to a crisp, the seriously burnt ones have been cut off and the other ones that weren’t too bad have been bent down. It was 14 inches when the plant was flipped, I reckon she would be around 48 inches now if I didn’t have to hack at her. But disappointed as I reckon she would have been a beauty. But... life goes on and I’m sure she will yield alright when the time comes 4ish weeks time. Literally the only problem this week has been vertical space, plant itself is very healthy. Next time I better get a taller tent 🤦‍♂️
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My plant present fosariun I need changin my earth of my grow, I harvested
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@Mo_Powers
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the first week is behind us. the weather is still very changeable. a lot of rain and not yet the desired daytime temperatures. the little one is growing, but is taking her time.
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Giorno 70 Tutte le piante sono state raccolte e tra un mese aggiornerò il diario con le foto delle cime essicate. Sono molto contento perché certi odori mi hanno colpito e non vedo l'ora di sentirli in fumata. Grazie a chi ha commentato e ha lasciato un like. Un altro giro è appena iniziato. Ci vediamo di là 💪🖐️❤️
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This week is pretty routine plants look good was going to flower for 10 weeks but most of the fan leaves are turning yellow indicating that it's almost time to harvest. There aren't too many new white hairs growing most are turning orange.
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Durante esta semana hemos notado un buen crecimiento en la SS Y un enraizamiento correcto en las pequeñas. Quiero destacar que esta semana hemos empezado con el plan de nutrición con deeper Underground y micro vita de Top Crop. Quiero recordar a todos los amigos que estoy utilizando un sustrato tipo All Mix Y que durante esta semana voy a ir haciendo pruebas con las Servet a ver qué tal le sienta el producto Top Veg para crecimiento, solo va a ser una prueba con dosis muy pequeñas para que vaya acostumbrando. También quiero destacar que estoy muy contento con la evolución de la raíces de las Servet porque ya están en el fondo de la maceta
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All 22 plants are doing GREAT in week 11! They have a healthy green color (shows that the BIO TABS nutrients still work well) and develop more and more flowers all over. The buds have started to form HUGE COLAS on some plants and the TRICHOME PRODUCTION Is in full swing now. The plants are GLISTENING with trichomes and some even have RESIN-RAILS on their fan-leaves, its AMAZING TO SEE! My wonderful ladies are SMELLING DELICIOUS now. The STRAWBERRY-SOUR-DIESEL from DevilHarvestOriginal-Seeds has an amazing CITRUS and LEMON aroma. The Mr.Jekyll-Kush from Mr. Hide Seeds has a VERY STRONG KUSH-aroma...it smells gassy and DANK! The SUGAR BLACK ROSE from Delicious Seeds has mildly sweet aroma, which reminds me a little bit of VANILLA. The SERIOUS HAPPINESS from Serious Seeds has a nice BERRY aroma, which is fruity and sweet. The aroma from the Mr. Big Candy from Mr. Hide Seeds is similar to that, fruity and sweet. The BLUE-MINT from Mountain-High-Seeds has a more EARTHY smell to it. The SHORELINE plants from DevilHarvestOriginal-Seeds stays very short and bushy and has a VERY FUNKY aroma...very refreshing, almost like eucalyptus. Until now I LOVE THE SPEEDY DEVELOPMENT UNDER MY SANlight LEDs! The plants are growing healthier and faster and develop more resin under the EVO5-150s than they do under HPS!
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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Welcome to the Smoking Tiki's hut! For this grow, I'm using some of the seeds I won at the Summer Buds contest from last year. I kept the seeds in my fridge door during one year. It worked very well because all the seeds successfully germinated after 48h! 😎 I used 3x3 seeds. I selected 2x3 seeds with the bigger root to put them in some pots. I will let them grow a bit and then select the 3 best plants to make it until the harvest. It's the first time I grow some Fast Buds under a light and in a controlled environement, I'm really curious to see how it turns out! My set-up: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Mars Hydro TSW2000 (300W). - Tristar fan (30W) - Greenmigo dehumidifier (155W). - Compo Sana universal soil (2x40l) - Timer - Weather station + pH meter Have a nice journey through my grow diary!