Let’s see , humidity is an issue . It’s higher than I’d like it to be . I added drip pans & two different miniature forms of dehumidifiers one electronic and the other passive . I need recommendations on affordable dehumidifiers before I run into mold issues . After breaking the apical dominance there was one or two issues but it gave me all the more admiration for the genetics to take a beating and still remain unbothered & WHOLE . A main top was bound too tightly & broke in half trying to pull itself back up . It remained broken and unnoticed for atleast 3 days before I saw the damage and taped it . She is now almost fully scarred over & healed . Vertical growth was decent this week I wouldn’t describe it as fast or explosive. Still watering to activate the dry amendments I can tell they haven’t began taking it up quite yet. Holy shit do they stink when not premixed into the soil before planting ! Just monitoring & trying to get as much dense continuous resin packed bud stacked up in there .

De planten hebben een geweldige geur die heel zoet is ze zijn nu aan het drogen. Na het drogen post ik een rook ervaring

Just over 6z from the 2

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

I supercropped the tall Enemy of the State branches that were in the light. As you can see In the video there was no light burn! We also have about 30” of light penetration even though I’ve not performed any defoliation! Loving these lights.

Dropped light hours down to 16 . Topped off nutrient solution with 5.0 ph evened out .removed none chosen phenos to be flowered in separate room no longer tracking those we will only follow the chosen mothers clones i cut clones today as well had the lady friend clean floor with bleach and dawn put clones in ez cloner 32 systems

11/09/2024 La croissance se passe bien . la plante est vigoureuse et repond tres bien a l entraînement. Je viens de couper les apex pour une seconde fois avant la mise en flo je devrais l avoir realisé au minimum 4 fois. Elle a tres réagi au rempotage dans son pot definitif. Un peu tot pour elle .Mais le rempotage devait etre réalisé en meme temps que les autres filles.

Those babies stated to drink a lot, drying a substrate in 24 hours decided to replant them into the large 25 liter air-pots. The roots are visible and developed quiet good, so i hpe it was good timing to do that. Also made some topping on one of plants, others will be topped this week. Generally all goes good👍

Update week 2 of Bloom

I believe this is around week 10 I haven’t been keep up with the time frame..

Día 48 . Ya se comienza a llenar la carpa de brotes 🌴, aún falta para pasar a floración 👽. . El led que uso es un TS1000 de Mars-Hydro 🛸🚀 a 17" o 40cm de las plantas. . ▪️Variedad: Big Devil F1 Fast Version ▪️Carpa: 80x80x160 ▪️Temperatura: 28°C ▪️Humedad: 65% ▪️PH agua: 6 ▪️NPK: 8-3-3 : 2ml/litro

12 weeks / 84 days old today. So my first grow journey is coming to an end! Not a lot to report this week. Been using my jewellers loupe daily to keep an eye on the trichomes and can definitely see a big difference. (Sorry, pictures are crap - don’t have enough hands to get a good one!) Still watering with plain water but they’re taking a lot less and only been watered every 4 days or so. Sticky orange has lots of cloudy trichomes and starting to get a few Amber. Her leaves are drying off so she is getting harvested before the weekend. Purple skunk is a bit behind so I think I will wait and see how she goes for another week or so. I always thought she’d be the one to finish first too. I think I will be drying in the garage. We are consistently getting 18 degrees outside now but with the temperature drops at night, I am not sure whether to bring the buds inside overnight. I’ll be drying in a hanging ‘herb’ dryer and I have my curing jars all labelled and ready to go. Thinking of wet trimming roughly then going in for a final dry trim later once dry to neaten them up. Drying advice welcome! I did think I’d have to harvest in stages and chop the lower buds later on. But even the bottom buds look like they’ve caught up this week. I have honestly enjoyed every second of this grow and I’m almost disappointed it’s nearly finished. But at the same time, I can not wait to see (and taste) the final result!

After realising that it was the temps in my reservoir changing causing my ph levels to change I have now sorted the issue and levels are a lot more stable. This week I will begin diluting/flushing my system by just adding water ph 6.2 to the reservoir before I do a full system change for the final 2 week flush Starting to see a lot more too her now and her buds are starting to bulk. I'm really pleased with how she is turning out and I can't wait for harvest! Happy growing 🌱

Ultima semana solo riego con 3 ml De enzimas por litro de agua, esta etapa es un riego final, donde se puede esperar a que se seque el sustrato. Una vez las hojas no muestren signos de vida, o estan muy amarillas, ya no cumple función para realizar la fotosíntesis, dejar la planta mas tiempo ahí es perdida de recursos. Es el momento ideal para poder cortar. NOTA FINAL: Cherry Lemon AUTO: Es una genética compacta pero productora, con manifestación de antocianinas ante los cambios de clima, mas calor es igual a un color de las inflorescencias mas lilas. Mas Frio, y el color central tiende a ponerse morado, a un color purpura y vino tinto, propio de las genéticas Cherry. Tonos de aromas cítricos y dulces en el aire. AK ULTRA: Es una genética bastante sativa, con una floración larga, esta planta todo lo que le puedas dar, se lo va a comer , asi que hay que tener precaución a la hora de administrarle la comida semanalmente. Para verano es una genética excelente, y puede llegar a dar bastante producción, dentro del indoor llegando a 1.20 metros 1.30. Tolerando mucho el calor y la sequia. Flores densas y compactas, ramas laterales abundantes , aromas a limón y Diesel por el aire. En lo que respecta a la alimentación de las sales, tantos A+B y C . Las autoflorecientes con las solución A ( N 4- P 2- K 3) tienen una buena base de nitrógeno, calcio y magnesio, lo necesario para que la planta crezca hasta la semana 5 sin necesidad de cortar el nitrógeno de golpe. Sino que aplicando la mitad de la dosis cuando la planta entre en floración. Durante las primeras dos semanas se recomienda tirar la mitad de la dosis utilizada en vegetación + la solución B que es la de flora ( N1: 5 P- 5 K) luego de la tercera semana ya se puede aumentar la dosis de 2ml x Litro en cada riego a la semana. Por ejemplo, si la planta en la semana come 800ppm. El primer riego debe aumentarse cada 1ML en agua base de osmosis 0.045ppm hasta que la solución marque 400ppm - ML. A los tres días repetimos hasta lograr 400pm-. El próximo riego si no vemos excesos, se puede diluir un poco mas de ML x L hasta un máximo de 5ml de la formula B. Luego de 3 riegos con sales, es recomendable regar con agua lo mas limpia posible o usar enzimas para que haya un arrastre de las sales y el sustrato quede mas liviano. Dejando de aplicar sales y regando solo con agua 2 semanas antes de la cosecha. En la solución C para auto florecientes en todo el cultivo con un NPK de 1:1 5:1 . Las dosis acá fueron mas altas empezando de 2.5ml hasta 6.5 ml x Litro de agua. Aquí no hay sobre-fertilización, se puede agregar tranquilamente hasta 4 riegos en dosis bajas , y ya en el quinto riego es recomendable usar solamente agua. Debido a que es una formula que expreso una pequeña falta de PK, se pueden agregar aditivos ricos en Fosforo y potasio para potenciar el cultivo. También como la solución C, es recomendable dejar de fertilizar dos semanas antes de la fecha de corte o cosecha , cualquier tipo de aditivos minerales, dejando así un sabor mas suave a la planta. OJO: Si ud va a usar este producto con fines medicinales como aceites y extracciones, es recomendable que limpie bien el sustrato, Cortando con la fertilización 10 a 15 días antes de cortar la planta. De lo contrario, puede seguir alimentando la planta hasta el ultimo de sus días. Pero el sabor no será el mismo y arruinará el trabajo de meses solo por un capricho de querer tener mas producción. Pero si a ud no le molesta, puede fertilizar hasta el ultimo dia de vida de la planta. TIP: Si tiene la posibilidad de usar enzimas por cada 3 riegos de sales minerales, seriá lo mas perfecto para la planta. Luego puede volver a fertilizar tranquilamente. Aqui un ejemplo. 💧( AGUA) Semana X Fertilizacion (🔴 ) Fertilizacion (🔴 )Fertilizacion (🔴 ) 💧( AGUA) O enzimas. Repetir, dos semanas antes, parar de fertilizar.Y regar solo las proximas dos semanas con agua.

Last week happened a lot. I Was looking forward for day 49, because it marked the last foliation day. I put away the scrog net ä, because i think i just let those girl the freedom they need. The sidebranches got thicker, and I think i just let them go from now on. This is the first time im really giving nutritions, and the difference is huge. These nugs are crazy. They are 3 weeks before harvest much bigger than These from my first grow. I also have some cal/mag issues on my strawberry Gorilla and my Red mimosa. Lets see if I can handle it. Day 53: i think the plants are struggeling with the high variation in temperature. its between 10 degrees and 28. but i cant move them into a heated building. at least i hope that the yield will be ok, and next grow will be under other circumstances.

She’s been flowering for 4 maybe 5 weeks now initially I thought she was taking long because my 12/12 was a couple mins off giving it more light but corrected that n it just looks like it’ll be a long finish her but it’ll be worth it 😎

Die Pandora ist allmählich am Ende ihres Blütezyklus angekommen und hat sich wunderbar entwickelt. Für die etwas lichtarmere Umgebung kann sich ihr Blütenverhältnis im Gegensatz zu anderen Autos an diesem Platz durchaus sehen lassen. Da momentan das Wetter wieder besser ist, bekommt sie auf ihre letzten Tage hin nochmal viel Sonne zum Ausreifen.

Humidity was 25-35% so the buds were smaller than they could have been but that’s winter for ya. Other than that the plants is amazing. Grew very fast in veg and the buds smell fruity/ oranges. Great sativa high that feels relaxing and stoney. Pretty powerful.