You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Bellissime genetiche x pure instinto... Mangiatrici di npk ... Ma resistenti...

All in all went well but come home from a 12 hour shift last night to find the temp on 45° and rh was 55 so got signs of heat stress added another fan high up to hopefully get a much better air flow

UPDATE GANG!!! SO sorry for the LAG!!! Lots going on this month in the house.... But I'm going to try to stay more consistent with the updates!!!! SOOO the plants are doing okay they are starting to change Hues as far as color appearance mainly I'm thinking because of the lower temps because of local weather, other then that the girls are doing fine a lot of those whiteflies sucked a lot of sap out of the plants they started getting crispy i hope this doesn't affect the quality of the buds, other then that I'm going to start ramping down the nutrients ill keep you update I'm going prolly chop in 2 or 3 weeks thanks guys!!!!!!

Week 2 of flower 12-5 She is growing nicely. She got a good dose of microbes yesterday. 2k ml she got cal/mag 5ml per gal, Drops 1ml, dusting of yucca, Kelp 1/16th tsp, EM 1 1 ounce per gallon and 1/2 tsp recharge. Top dress is soon. She will only get water x2 waterings. Cheesecake pictures tomorrow. I think I even may have, underwatered Cheese HAHAHAHA No way! Me ..... Underwater.... Thats a first! Now I have it marked. LOL 😬 J/s EM1 is kinda lol Icky. And the bottle almost exploded on me 😂 Good stuff. 12-7 Good ol plain water ph 6.2 Watered around 2.5 liters took it well. Roots are coming out the bottoms of both bags. 💪 Almost looks like worms 🤣 I must be doin ok, I haven't had them jump out before. 💪 And on both. Not the other 2 🤣 yet? The buds on 3x are tiny. They need top dressed, but i dont think thats it. May be a slow budder?? Idk, we shall see. But I do see signs of hunger. Top dress next water 💪 Removed all leafs pointing in. Or most at least. Very happy with progress. Still no signs of over water/feeding yet. 😁🤘 12-10 Top dress both 2 tbs buildaflower, 1 tbs craftblend, 1/4 cup poo. 12-11 Just growin tall.

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Well, as it's been 8 full weeks now it's time to change to flora, today the 24th of July 2023 I'm changing the time from vega to flora so they will take 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness thus starting the flowering phase, today I should have watered with top bloom from top crop but it ended up that I watered only with water and I'll wait for the next watering I'll already water with top bloom from top crop and let's see what these beautiful girls do, I was going to leave another time in vega another two weeks apparently i'm going to move so i don't know if i'm going to have much time left in this house so i'm going to take advantage of the time i have and already putting them to bloom

Day22: As said in Week3, I will not keep this perspective for the whole grow, as it doesn't really show the size of the plant. But it gives a nice view of how to top leaves grow :) The flashes that you see in the video is the humidifier. It pumps out vapour every hour for 15mins. So basically a quarter of each second of the video will be when the humidifier runs. Day23: I changed it, as I wanted to see the size as well. Day24 - Day28: Happy, healthy growth.

Ok dear ones, my 10 followers needs their internet niche micro celebrity back in order to show off viced practice in weed growing stating back the basics and record everything if i go broke beyond repair and obviously confirm , if you invert mediocrity you receive mediocrity, if you invert best you receive the best, but im on the sweet spot on that one. I used a special bac product on germination called x-seed in order to prevent damping off or lose a whole pack of seeds , these seeds are from a local bulk brand called RengoKabron and it's also my first time buying from these allegedly "premium selection" seeds, im not bragging or usig irony to expect like the specific strain from from a very aknowledged cup winning breeder bank behind it , just emphazising that the prices for bulk unit usually is 1 to 3 usa dollars, this is the last criteria and this exclusive one based on sugar black rose , mango sapphire and Karma OG as far i remember. Even if it's a little too much on the expensive side (im not throwing dirt on bulk seed brokers and by consequence banks that are only repack, but yes they have a threat, the same provider of seed told me , local competence, on even when they aren't competence by any means also the starting price of this particular strain can be comparison with local seed breeders that also can offer some exclusivity but, besides the combination of the genetic and the provider, because on stores i suffer a lot so ... , a generic bulk or most premium seed can fail and the value adds is that the person face of the bank offered guarantee and i believe in honor, something that here in my country is very hard to do because usually the sellers says WHAT PART OF COLLECTION DID YOU NOT UNDERSTAND ANYTHING BESIDES COLLECTING THEM IS ILLEGAL AS FAR NOV 2024 MF SO I BELIEVE IN YOUR WORD HOMIE, INCLUDING THAT ARE FRESH AND WILL NOT DAMP OFF IF CORRECTED PARAMETERS AND REGISTER EVERY PROCEDURE EXPLAINED THEREFORE. shoutout to rengokbron, as 28 of 30 seeds popped initially, so , they are fresh, now the vigor will be covered on the next update. stay tuned! So my initial cash inverted on seeds is 60.000clp Regarding to substrate, there are two, a light mix from a local substrate brand called "tanu mapu" (it means something soil in an archaic language) and the seller gave me a small bag of coco to try if it's more useful to germinate, as i will do 30 seeds with the hope that at least 1/3 survive ( i'm on my cursed era right now, when your hand decays everything it touch, a breeder phase where you must reformulate) 50lt on 7500CLP (actually that's quite cheap and quality is good on touch but it's also my first time using it too so i need to confirm that by empyric test) i inverted 35000CLP on substrate, i will think about the space after the germination test and checking on the final survivors and the most vigorous. (thats what i love from bulk and budget banks, you can put more to select the ones you belove, but sometimes stability is missing and there is a lot fake bulk on shops that usually is regular seed on falsified bank packaging so im happy with my shopping, except if everything fails and my effort and refreshing the stash is not enough because im suffering from kush breeding erectile disfunction, and this is my second attempt throwing seeds and everything that shall fail, can fail again. Also substrate and humidity , shall faulter, but as im using more prepared substrate and conditions, this will not fail twice in a row (i lost 20 seeds of purple punch and white shark), also , parameters will be monitored 24/7/365 and there will be automatization and more mid ranged lighting , as i'm on summer transition and heat can cause a bad interior conditions too!, like a baby inside a car.

removed a few leaves to give each a little more space. the soil is a mixture of already "used and fresh earth", as well as a little perlite and lava rock and plenty of smelly pre-mix from biobizz.lol let's see how four of them get along in one pot.lol * tools for irrigation.lol: the sliced detergent bottle is demanding as a tool for hand watering. costly and time-consuming, but since you can adjust the water flow speed, every centimeter of soil really gets damp.lol and you can use it on all sizes of pots. (the plant in the last picture is another plant, fastBuds gorilla cookies, meanwhile, in my opinion my favorit.lol )

Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

Let’s see , humidity is an issue . It’s higher than I’d like it to be . I added drip pans & two different miniature forms of dehumidifiers one electronic and the other passive . I need recommendations on affordable dehumidifiers before I run into mold issues . After breaking the apical dominance there was one or two issues but it gave me all the more admiration for the genetics to take a beating and still remain unbothered & WHOLE . A main top was bound too tightly & broke in half trying to pull itself back up . It remained broken and unnoticed for atleast 3 days before I saw the damage and taped it . She is now almost fully scarred over & healed . Vertical growth was decent this week I wouldn’t describe it as fast or explosive. Still watering to activate the dry amendments I can tell they haven’t began taking it up quite yet. Holy shit do they stink when not premixed into the soil before planting ! Just monitoring & trying to get as much dense continuous resin packed bud stacked up in there .

Lots of fattening up this week. This girl is looking fat for such a small plant. Gonna ease up on nutes this next week, and hopefully there'll be a harvest next week!!! Issues with the leaves seems to have stopped after adjusting pH and adding some calmag.

New light, the MarsHydro sp3000 + 2x4 tent. Seedling looks great, cant wait to see coming weeks development.

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Weekly update on these three. They'll be getting the chop this week as they're super close to being finished. I'm looking for mostly cloudy trichs on them. Over all Happy Growing

Day 70 First day of Week 10, 12 days of flower - Plants look like they are loving life in the tent. White hairs coming up everywhere. Smell is starting to increase. Soil is still moist so no water today. Day 71, day 13 of flower- Buds are forming nicely, soil is pretty dry so I'll water tonight or tomorrow morning. The closest top to the light is about 18" the others are about. 24"from the light. Currently at using the Growers Choice ROI-720 at 60% using 432w from the wall. Watered with 3 liters of plain water per plant. Day 72, 14 days of flower - just measured them today. Day 73, 15 days of flower- I turned the light up to 70%. Soil is pretty dry today. Day 74, 16 days of flower- watered with 3 liters per plant with 2.3ml/g of micro, 2.3ml/g of grow, and 3.3ml/g of bloom with 1 tsp/g of molasses. PH 6.4 @ 71°F. Plant B has some lower leaves turning yellow. Day 75, day 17 of flower- trimmed alotnof yellow leaves off of plants B and D, plant A is starting to yellow at the tips of the new growth. White hairs are growing fast. Day 76, day 18 of flower- you can start to see the tricomes on the sugar leaves now buds are starting to form. Starting to claw at the ends again. Mabey from too much water. Not sure why they are yellowing, not sure if it's over water or under water or over feed or under fed.

Went on holiday for 3 weeks, had no one water her, had 4 x 3L bottle of nutes upside down withe hole drip feeding, she has done well to survive the hot summer, needs a tidy up and caging before she pre flowers . 14hr 59 minutes day light hours here.

This plant was germinated along side three other strains , it stayed short and compact ,it was very leafy and compact . If I was to grow it again I would spread and thin out the canopy and defoliate more heavily . This strain was in a10 litre pot and produced 90g of dried trimmed bud . It was a low producer but the flower is really nice , a very enjoyable evening flower through a volcano vaporizer.