Day 36 : I did LST again plants are growing quick. I set the lamp approx 26 cm away. 600 W LED, 20 hours on 4 hours off the same with ventilation humidity approx 60 percent. Ferlizitaion will continue the same way Monday Wednesday and Friday BioBizz family and Tuesday Thursday and Saturday bat gunao and Epson salt. Water intake 100 ml per day per plant. Day 39: Pre-flowers are coming BlackBerry Kush is getting purple ❤️. All of them started flowering and colas are coming out. Day 41: All of them have pre-flowers and pistils are out. BlackBerry Kush started turning into Purple. She and LSD-25 are the most developed. I did more LST on them.

Day 3 of 12/12, could of vegged this girl a little longer as she Germinated a few weeks later, still I'm happy with her. Roll on the next 65 days.

not all the ladys are drom the same time 5 are 2 weeks ahead 1is West coast OG auro and all 10are Amnesia haze auto,

DISCLAIMER START EC Value on weekly page is the actual value, my EC meter was not calibrated and gave extremely false values, that's why it went so bad, corrected it on the weekly page when I noticed it, the EC value in the comment is wrong, the rest is correct. DISCLAIMER END The plant keeps growing super slow and doesn't like "high" EC, after the Increase in EC last week it got stunted and a couple days later started to show tip burn. Really really frustrated and if this one was in my usual setup I would have tossed it out of the window. New growth after topping is also growing EXTREMELY slow. Did some defoliation to get light to lower nodes but ya whatever the plant doesn't care and doesn't want to grow. Unsure if it is due to this pheno, the new setup, the new light or whatever, to many variables to definitely say. I see this grow as a big experiment from now on and don't expect anything anymore. Added some Universol Yellow (high P) after lowering EC due to tip burn. Changed the light to my old one the SP3000 to see if the higher amount of far red is helping it to stretch. Plant started to flower properly mid week so I'll start to mark it as flowering starting next week. On one leaf there is a bud starting to form. Values are average of the day. DATE - EC(us/cm) 20250315 1696 20250316 1630 20250317 1433 20250318 1406 20250319 1398 20250320 1323 20250321 1350 DATE - PH 20250315 6.09 20250316 5.94 20250317 5.58 20250318 5.67 20250319 5.68 20250320 5.71 20250321 5.70 DATE - ORP (mV) 20250315 49 20250316 40 20250317 80 20250318 63 20250319 51 20250320 30 20250321 45 DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20250315 23.8 43 20250316 23.2 37 20250317 23.2 43 20250318 22.9 43 20250319 22.7 53 20250320 22.8 48 20250321 23.2 44 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20250315 20.9 20250316 21.1 20250317 19.4 20250318 18.6 20250319 18.9 20250320 19.2 20250321 19.0 DATE - CF 20250315 16.96 20250316 16.30 20250317 14.33 20250318 14.06 20250319 13.98 20250320 13.23 20250321 13.50

Day 29. No problems as far as I can see. Started doing daily feeds from day 20, figuring I'll keep consistent track of the runoff PPM, and it is right now at 330, which is the highest reading so far (too high?). Inflow has been steady at 420-460 PPM for a while, and will continue until flower. Last weeks topping turned out to be a FIM, and I now have 8 new tops.. "fuck I missed" indeed

Mar 10th Week 13 CDP # 2 is doing awesome Some LST required and possibly some more defoliation this week CDP # 1 is picking up a little bit from last week but still far behind it’s sister plant Mar 13th Fresh nutrients today More defoliation CDP # 1 is still lagging behind CDP # 2 is healthy happy filling out nicely It is the biggest plant in the tent Mar 14th Defoliated CDP # 2 big time. Took me an hour or so. This is an experiment with defoliation for me. I want to see if this will help provide the stimulus to produce buds instead of leaves. All in an attempt to get the biggest nuggets I can.

Looking sweet. Stretch has now slowed down and there’s plenty of frost starting to show. In a few weeks there’s gonna be some beautiful buds if they carry on like this. Slight bit of burn at 1.2 but nothing major. Still nicking the odd fan leaf here and there to let the light down. Don’t really think it affects them when they’re strong like this and I’d far rather have the light getting down there then not. Roll on next week.

2/10: I watered today with about 3/4 gallon each, plus cal-mag, signal, bembe, armor si, a little open sesame, and their final dose of endoboost. The short one is budding up nicely, but the taller one is still stretching. The short one looks to be considerably more indica than the other. 2/11: Wife home sick today....postponing construction project to raise the lights. 2/12: Today, I tackled the project to raise my ceiling another foot. In addition to that project, I installed and hooked up my new AC Infinity 6" intake fan. It's pulling in fresh air from the soffit vent on the eave of the attic, and currently feeding the garden with 46f fresh air. I'm able to easily maintain daytime temps in the lower 70f's now. I am able to drive the nighttime temps as low as I want. The only issue is that the outdoor RH varies quite a bit, so I ordered a 30-pint dehumidifier to put in the top of the closet. I sprayed everybody with boomboom spray to try and mitigate the light burn damage that is likely to ensue. 2/13: The taller one is still stretching a little bit, but the 2-footer is just budding up. 2/14: I fed them today with about 3/4 gallon each including grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom, cal-mag, signal, bembe, humic acid, and I switched over from Open Sesame to Beastie Bloomz. Raised the lights another couple of inches. I did some training on them and defo'd a little bit. 2/15: Installed the new dehumidifier and rigged the continuous drain on it...works great. 2/16: I rotated the edge plants and removed some old leaves. I added another 22w 3000k 4' bar light under the canopy. 2/17: I rearranged the garden and defoliated a little bit. That's it for week 8-

Anesia Seeds - Chimera Cut💚 100 days from seed and 52 days into flowering. Everything is going well, but of course, we always strive for better! The main cola has split into three massive buds, all covered in sugar and looking incredibly beautiful. However, the lower branches don’t look as impressive, but we’re holding out hope that they’ll bulk up a bit more. I’m considering increasing the nutrient dosage, as our girl has quite the appetite. We’re almost out of nutrients, but luckily, our favorite fertilizers from Xpert Nutrients are already on their way to us. A huge thank you to Xpert Nutrients 💚for always having our back! Also, a big thanks to Anesia Seeds – we love your genetics! For our next grow, we’ll definitely be growing another strain from your collection.

Some Faded bottom leaves . Temps are lower . Not sure if my questions are seen but moving forward with my first Auto Blow Dream grow.

Update coming.

Wednesday 20/03 - heavy defoliation, removed all large fan leaves 🍁 - last few days now, few trichomes turning amber, don’t want too many to go amber as I want the maximum THC available haha, pushing for that 30%! - smells abso-fucking-lutely beautiful, sweet candy notes with strong diesel and pine coming through! ⛽️🍭🌲😫

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Poisoned against insects

Fragrances are really starting to develop this week. Both phenotypes smell differently. Leia has more of an earthy vibe going on so far while Maz smells straight up like candy! 🍬 Leia's yellow pistils are still stretching like crazy and her buds are nice and stacked. The bud structure on the Maz phenotype are very reminiscent of the Skywalker OG that was the mama for this cross. It's really cool to see and appreciate the differences. I changed my watering practices from 1 gallon every 6 days to 1/2 gallon every 3-4 days. The plants have seemed much happier with the change. 😉

Good bud and visible trichome development.😍 Stretch seems to be slowing down by the end of this week. Another round of MegaWorm and Guano powder spread on the soil this week. Temperatures and and watering needs are increasing as the light is set to 100% this week. 160W of LED on about a third of a square meter should push these plants to some nice yields.🙌

4/15/25 Things are progressing nicely. Some plants dont seem to be doing too much but 3 of them or so that are really standing out. Im curious if some of these are going to be longer flowering time than anticipated with the very obvious sativa dominant plants.

Hay good week the flowers have started to bulk up a bit .I've stopped the take root and started a low dose of explode . I've been taking a few more leaves an I've tied down a couple of branches to let the light get in . Lots of tricomes some frosty leaves and getting sticky and smelly .