Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Day 50 and a new week... the summer comes back to germany and "Hilde 2.0" goes well 🙏😀 Day 51 ... the summer is back in germany ... sun and heat 😎👍... good for the Buds 😉🙏 Day 52 summer sun and warm weather....😎🙌🙏👍 Day53 hell yeah....sun and hot weather 😎🙏👍 Day54 summer sun and heat sounds like fun again 😎🙏👍 Day55 sun sun sun and hot weather 😎👍 Day56 really hot summer day 😎👍

📆 Semana 8: ¡Últimos riegos con nutrientes para la Gorilla Cookies! Esta semana hemos realizado el último aporte de nutrientes, manteniendo el equilibrio de PK para asegurar el máximo engorde antes del lavado de raíces. Las dosis han sido ajustadas para evitar acumulación de sales, y el pH se mantiene óptimo para maximizar la absorción. Los Adlite siguen demostrando su efectividad en esta etapa crítica. El Adlite UV55 ha impulsado el desarrollo de tricomas, logrando que la resina brille aún más bajo la luz. Por su parte, el Adlite Red55 ha intensificado el color y el volumen de los cogollos, consolidando flores compactas y aromáticas. La combinación con el Mars Hydro FC6500 continúa siendo excelente para mantener una luz intensa y homogénea en todo el dosel. Las temperaturas están controladas entre 23-25°C, y la humedad se mantiene en torno al 50-55% para evitar riesgos de moho o botrytis. Los aromas se están volviendo cada vez más complejos: la dulzura y el fondo terroso se intensifican, mientras que el característico toque a galleta de la Gorilla Cookies se hace más evidente. Los tricomas están mayormente lechosos, con algunos aún transparentes, pero sin presencia de ámbar, lo que indica que el proceso de maduración sigue en curso. Última fase de engorde y máxima expresión de resina... Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪

22/9first update since I've been on holiday, I left the plants in the best hands i could find 👌💚 23/9 really pleased with plant #2 I've taken plenty of clones off her before she was in flower(and gifted to friends/kept a couple). Any water she will have this week will just be water & little calmag 24/9 both starting to show where bud sites will soon be, I hope!! Plant 2 has definitely been the start child the whole grow. 25/9 plant 1 popping pistils alot quicker than plant 2 26/9 growing well but taking a while to start flowering, I'm not sure if that's just me being impatient or what?! Either way plant 2 is actually going to be a monster at this rate. I increased boost nutes in hope it will speed things up 27/9 not sure if plant 2 is popping green pistils or she is just a layer bloomer 🤔 plant 1 was put in to flower a little bit later than #2 however she is starting to bloom quicker. Maybe just different phenos? Or maybe because I fucked up with the light timer the other week, who bloody knows?! 28/9 fiiinally starting to get pistils on the larger plant!! I was getting worried she would never stop growing!

hello after 4 weeks of growth we have just changed the soil and put in new pots in 11 liters. the red tea I will make them myself in our mixture we have 60l of perlit 70l of coco 50l of soil and to finish 10l of hummus worms. i changed the lamp too we are now under the zeus at 25% to start I will increase in the days coming . to talk about the plants first of all thank you very much to sweet seed for collaborating with me I am very happy with the variety and their way of doing things. the plants they behave well except the three in the middle which remain very small despite all the attention that I pay them we will see better in the weeks to come what it will give here thank you very much to you good continuation kisses

At the start of my first proper week of growth she seemed to be doing really well. I noticed her stretching quite a bit, so I moved to the light a bit closer. This seems to have done the trick. Thanks to everyone on Grow Diaries who answered my question about burying some of the stem when transplanting. I decided to move to a slightly bigger pot (from 1litre to 3.8 litres) so that I could bury some of her stretchyness. This was based on advice from you guys - so thank you! She seems to have taken to the transplant well. I made sure the EC and PH of both mediums were very close.

The outdoor plant's stems are thickening and hardening af. This will be perfect for when my next light arrives; I will switch it back to flower and will support some fat buds. It is windy af; I am also twisting all stems on the outdoor plant every 3-4 days so they harden/thicken even more. I really might need to cut it to size before going inside again... I am giving it full veg nutrients (2.5ml/L fish emulsion, 1ml/L Activera, 0.8ml/L Bloom) with tiny bit of bloom; There are also some small pests eating some small holes through the leaves, but seems to handle it; I get rid of anything I see and will give it an organic pesticide (garlic and neem oil) spray before bringing it back inside. Indoor plant is going OK, the buds are fattening a bit slower than I want, The light is now also a bit too small for this plant as well; I want also the lower buds to fatten so some of the higher leaves are burning a bit but the middle is best. I might have given it a bit of nitrogen toxicity a bit ago but I lowered my fish emulsion and it stopped spreading,

Microrrizas and trichodermas

Hey everyone at week 4 know and wow have these girls grown early this week I applied some LST and all took really well to say it was my first time trying this

04/09/2025 - Mais uma semana se passou e fiz regas apenas de agua.

Final week of flower for some and we will start the harvest. Also we flushed the plants at the start of the week. All the plants got flushed and will be given the final weeks as required. All looks good and frosty. Lemon Z and Peyote Cookies look out of this world. Gorilla cookies look good but plenty of variation in phenos

March 28 Diy Growbox: 60*60*160 cm Light: 150w led Light Cycle: 12/12 Soil: CocoPerlite in diy Hydrobucket Extractor: 120mm PC vent Running 24/7 Dear Growdiary, Day 110: Drainwater 185ppm @6.23Ph Fresh feeding 750ppm @6.05Ph

გ

This is a great strain from a great seed company in Canada, 34 street seeds. I have had great results from germination to harvest with their strains and these Cookies are no different. Nice tight nugs, some great tasting hard hitting smoke 💨 They grew easily enough, no disease or weirdness that couldn’t be solved by proper NPK. This would be a great strain for beginners looking for an easy harvest, with some good bud to show. I definitely did not maximize the potential of this strain this go around, but I still have 2 seeds from the 5 and it will make it back to my garden again. ❤️🇨🇦😎💨

ºDay 71 (17Jan - Transition and stretch phase, 8th video; ºDay 72 (18Jan) - Starting LST again, 20th watering (1st nuteMix), 9th video; ºDay 75 (21Jan) - 21th watering (2nd nuteMix), 10th video; ºDay 77 (23Jan) - End of week 10;

Let me just say I had to combine 2 grow cycles because this strain was a bit of a pain in the ass ..as you can see the first time all my plants hermied but on this last run I came out with some pretty great looking /tasting bud that gets you almost too high!

-Pretty close to being done but trichomes are not ready yet. I usually like about 70% cloudy and 30% amber.