Decided to chop one girl early. If I'm honest I was very worried about the yield, because for the fort half of the flowering it didn't look very promissing but holy cow, just the first plant had 70g on it. I accidentally snapped two main colas in early stage so it would be probably more. However 3 girls are still running for at least a week or two so it looks like I will achieve 200g and probably well over which is awesome. Most importanltly, buds are super dense. Finally! I can't wait to finish with proper flush and curing. Humidity is now at constant 60% and can't really do much about it. Weather outside is also a bit humid, but i'm running 3 fans inside with pretty good extractor fan so hopefully no mould issues this time. I feel like the strain also help a lot. I will probably chop one girl in few days or a week and then the last monster looks like it will be ready little bit later than the rest so I will give it some extra time.

11/21 Mother#1,2　D85　13Week　 #1Clone☓2　D63　SD42 #2Clone☓4　D53　SD32 #3Clone☓4　D52　SD28 Grow 1ml / Bloom 3ml/l Max 1ml/l = 1l #5 Clone☓12

Ah it has come to an end! A grow for the books for sure! Coming in at 5lbs 3.8oz wet bud, this lady went above and beyond! I cannot say enough good things about this grow, genetics and strain, and will be growing another from her seed packet in a couple cycles! Cultivate love my friends! ✌️🏻

What to say in the end, even though things were not ideal, the outcome is better than expected. 🙏 My only regret is that it has not reached its full potential, although the buds are beautiful, dark purple, full of terpenes that stick to your fingers like honey when you touch them. 😋 The outcome is in the end 56 g. which is more than it looked before the harvest. 💪 She dried along with her two roommates Purple Punch for a total of 14 days. My wife, although not a consumer, enjoys trimming which suits me great because I can take photos during that time. After trimming, we put the dry tops in jars where they matured for another 20 days. Sometime in the future I would definitely repeat Watermelon, I know it can do even better. It’s great that it’s summer, it fits perfectly with the Watermelon joint on an afternoon summer evening with a book and the sea. I hope those who visited the diary got useful information, and to all who commented and liked, thank you for your support. See you soon with new diaries.

Welcome to Flower Week 1 of my Tiny Pot Journey! Pistols are shooting out of all nodes. I started the week off by adding a pinch of Gaia Green's All Purpose & Power Bloom to the top layer. After that, topped up Herbie with a couple finger fulls of living soil. 😉

to mutch cold here 2 week with low temps at night cicle betwen 12 &16 graus in europe. maybe this is the reason of that purple orange colors (:

She is lilly so far I didn't have any problems with her and I'm so exited to know what strain she turns out will find out in 3 or 4 weeks

I took a sample off the bud to see how it’ll look dried, so the plan is to cut the plant off Sunday! All I wanted is something to smoke and at this point I’m happy that seems to be the reality after the drying&curing process! Amazing feel! Some powdery mildew starting but shouldn’t be a problem if I cut soon!

1-5 week 4 of vegeration and the Girls goes very well. Distance between lamp and plants is 60 cm. Ppfd is 840 umol/s. 5-5 a nice screen of Green at the moment and i think first flowering begins.🙂

Switched to 12/12 light schedule. 😎

These keep on stacking calyxes on top of calyxes! A couple more weeks tops I reckon.

Week 1 24 hours ethos popped and began to stretch Temp 76 humidity domes on top 5 of 5 out going directly into pots and 24 hour lighting on day 3! gonna run 24/7 for 30 then switch over hopefully. Nothing added but FishShit and rootdrench to pop

Fastbuds Banana purple punch and Gorilla Cookies are looking great in early veg. Started a second seed of the strawberry banana and she finally popped up so now it’s just a week behind the others,but looking good hopefully will see some real growth in the next week!

26.1.25: I have had a mistake 😕 i spilt some Fish Mix as I was experimenting with a syphon from some aquarium tubing I have. Unfortunately, I forgot to take the syphon out! Ugh 😣 However, it is fish emulsion and very thick consistency. Therefore, I was able to scrape it up with 2 of my business cards up off the counter. So added this extra into the next 2 ltr solution I mixed. All plants were watered with at least 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3. Containing the following nutrients;- ♡ 3ml Seachem Seaweed ♡ 4ml Biobizz Fish Mix ♡ 4ml Biobizz Bio-Grow ♡ 3ml Biobizz Bloom ♡ 2ml Xpert Nutrients Bloom Booster ♡ 2ml Xpert Nutrients Cal-Mag ♡ .25g Ecothrive Biosys. ♡ 2.5g of Bicarbonate of Soda as PH UP. Unfortunately I have broken my PH pen too. Accidentally submerged it under water, then the readings went crazy. I'm leaving it to dry by standing it up but I'm most likely going to need a new one, which is extremely annoying 😑 I'm going start implementing the Scrog net probably some point next week if I let the plants that are in flower to just grow up now, as I do believe that I stunted Watermelon 🍉 by using too strenuous LST. Hopefully the plants still are able to grow upwards at this stage during flower for all the Purple Punch P1, P2 and P3. We will soon see! 28.1.25: My PH pen has packed up 😣 I've got to wait to get another. It's super annoying 😑 so I'm just judging by memory how to regulate it. Unfortunately, that's my only choice! I'm also out of the dechlorinator 😕 things are not going very well this week so far 😅 I guess we will have to make do, until I can get replenished. 29.1.25: I removed all the plants, hoovered, and disinfected the tent. There were several accidents when watering, causing some debris and splashes. I decided to just go ahead and get a few other things done. It's crazy how quickly things can become neglected! 😣 So I defoliated moderately on all plants except Gorilla Cookies seedling. I have absolutely dropped the ball on my lighting situation! My light was much further away than I thought! I turned it up to 100% and dropped it down to just under 2 feet away. After I reset the tent, I set up my scrog net. I removed 80% of all LST pegs. I am planning on letting the scrog net take over the training from here. I really want to minimise the risk of mould, so I decided to start using my dehumidifier. It has raised up to 73% RH this week, so it's necessary. Hopefully, I will be able to get my dechlorinator and PH pen soon! That's kind of essential to me. It's been a little bit of a stressful day in the garden, to be honest 😅 30.1.25: So I am expecting the arrival of my new PH pen today, as well as my new bottle of Ecothrive neutralise. It is supposed to measure the TDS and EC in addition to the standard TEMP and PH, which I had previously. Obviously, time will tell if it's any good or not. I realise, much too late now, that my lighting is very insufficient for this many plants. I need double the watts at least, and coverage is very poor. I remembered I had an old LED floor lamp, which was in a corner being unused. I decided to take the stand off, and Zip tied the pole onto the tent pole at the back left corner. I have no idea what the wattage is, and it's quite pathetic 😅 but I mean, I might as well use it, being as I definitely cannot afford more lights! 😣 Next grow, I will probably only grow 2 plants, max 4, and just use larger 7-10 Gallon pots. Being as I ran out of dechlorinator, I only watered some plants properly because I only had enough to make 6 litres. When my pen arrives, I will get everything properly watered. 31.1.25: The leaves of several plants are showing signs of iron deficiency. This is likely due to my PH pen packing up earlier. I now have a new pen. Due to this, I decided to use my Seachem Prime, which I use for my aquariums. As I wanted to get them watered properly, and my Ecothrive Neutralise hasn't arrived yet. I watered each plant with 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.0. I added .25g Ecothrive Biosys to the water. May give them a breather on the nutes and just use the Cal-Mag and Biosys. Being as I've just topped dressed with rich fertilisers, I'm sure that will be OK for the next several waterings. Bubble Kush

Hi all, Grow area updates: So I hit the switch and flipped the light to 12/12 to start week 1 of flower for the master kush. And also raised the scrog net and defoliate a bunch. Blue dream auto: Week 4 flower God her first real good defoliation and and a lollipop on the under the canopy. As you can from the pics. The bud sites are plenty. Plant def got biggger then what I thought it had to be tucked one more good time under the net ended up taking up space where another plant woulda be. Literally had to leave a couple branches still standing do to nowhere for them to go and I’m almost definite they will need assistance standing here in a bit. She literally takes have the flower area by herself. I’m stoked about that. The last pic from the web cam shows about how much I took from each branch For defoliation. Ppm at 900 Master kush photo: 1st week of flower She got pretty y’all over the past week the extra nitrogen grow really helped her have a Maher growth spirt. It got a lil hot this week so some minor leaf curling but nothing major. The new growth coming in looks perfectly fine. She responded well to the femming. So I went ahead and topped all the tops on her and she might get one more at the end of this week. She also got re-tucked under the net. Ppm at about 750. As always #StayKited!

12/13 Week 12 Blondie has about 2-3 weeks left Changing up her nutes a bit Adding some cal-mag reducing her PK try to help her out a bit here. 12/16 Shifted her to Soul Peak yesterday and man what a bud explosion. Remember this is not a big producer normally but she is really building now. 12/19 She is done just let her finish in flush

I love sativa. This is a great freaking plant. Long skinny buds (a little squeezed by me :) and the smell is incredible (strong put in jar open 5 min later my house smells strong) its sweet from the haze but it's got that gassy fuel smell to it also with a tiny bit of earthy after aroma. It's wonderful smokes great gets me higher than any weed at the stores and I never have coughed from it I don't think it's so smooth. Organically grown buds are fckin smooooothh man I never would have understood until I grew organic! This bud is the tits I'm stoned off a mix of blueberry amnesia haze northern ligbt joint as I write this lmao good harvest

Getting there... cant wait for Spring Walls are up and painted, floor is laid, electrical all done, exhaust outlets mounted. Ive started to install the trim - I decided to put a grey stain instead of boring paint on the floor trim boards. Looks really solid against the dark bamboo floors. I used two gallons and two coats of flat pure white paint for walls and ceiling. Should give me a reflectivity somewhere around 80%. Some may ask why not opt for mylar? I just dont like the look. I dont care too much for reflectivity, as I will be well above the required watts/sqft with the light setup I will be using. I mounted an electrical receptacle in the ceiling, I thought it may come in handy for cord management. Im going to mount the 3 x meanwell drivers outside of the grow room and run some extra long cables to them. This is to keep heat out of the room, any little bit helps. Will be running a 8inch fan with about 750 CFM in order to properly vent the room. Intake will be a door vent and the negative pressure the fan provides. Odor is not too much of a concern, but may as well add a carbon filter. Tables to be built this week after trim is installed Week 1 Spend - $2080 Week 2 Spend - $350 (mostly on hardware store visits) Total so far - $2430

08/21/2018 Day 1 week 2 of flower. Last bit of supercropping, keep the canopy low as possible 08/22/2018 #5 is the only 9 fingered leaves plant, all other GTH plants have 5 & 7 finger leaves, #5 took 3 clones she's my keeper of this batch. She is very diesely citrus,musky smell.can smell her at 90". #4 similar smell not as much stink. #3 minty chlorophyll smell. #2 orange,citrusy,mint. Ps. Gonna hit a selected branch or 2 of GTH #5 with mystery cookie males pollen I saved from earlier pollen harves. (week 19 mystery cookie grow) & some 2017 cherry pie pollen.( See Breeding Project, pollen test)@growdiary. #1 most similar to #2.rubs Smells from stem rubs on #1#2#3#4 , #5 no stem rubs needed she straight up stinks.👊🔥🚀⛽♨️

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.