FBA2507 Light mix finito✔️BANG To the guy behind this strain : THANK YOU it's a one-way to the past when I was harvesting peaches in my grandpa's garden👨🏻‍🌾 Once again the quality of the buds 😳!!! In coco she s huge🚀 Same feeding + Green Sensation RoOoOaAaaADDD I've ever been down👻 Take care 💚

Still running heavy bloom. I will taper off when buds are fully formed. Very unique blooms. I have only grown indica dominant plants so far. I’m hoping these flowers fill out while staying firm. I’ve been defoliating as I go. I will have to prune a few branches that didn’t make it.

Despite the stresses the plant feels very well. I did the topping last time, it will have 32 central branches and many other branches, I am going to leave it in the vegetation phase for 6 weeks, I will plant the scroging and fill one square meter 🌱👌

Entering third week...all of my plants have developed second pair of leaves and third one is growing already! Had an issue with watering as in first week I have overwatered, last week I have underwatered. One of the plants is significantly behind other two, however I hope that she will survive. 14.10. - Starting with 1ml/l of Bio Grow and Bud Candy to see how they'll respond. Also done the first LST. 10.10.2023 - 16.10.2023

Last week of veg now , let’s see what she can do . I was munching on a fresh leaf and it tasted exactly like orange candy so keen to smoke that taste

The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil spread evenly across the top of the soil. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 93°F with sunny clear skies. I watered 4-5 gallons each pot twice, from the well. Day 2 we had a high temperature of 95°F with clear sunny skies. It was super hot today. I watered each pot 4-5 gallons twice. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 95°F. It felt like 97°F. We had super clear sunny skies. The girls are loving the sunshine and slightly less humidity. I watered twice @4-5 gallons per pot. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 90°F with super clear sunny skies. The temperature was more comfortable at 90° today because we had less humidity. I watered 4-5 gallons per pot from the well. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 81°F with partly cloudy skies. The girls are still thirsty. I watered 4-5 gallons per pot once. These girls roots have tapped through these pots and into the soil. Unless it's just super hot watering once is enough. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 83° with clear sunny skies. I watered 4-5 gallons once per pot. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 79°F with clear sunny skies. I watered once 4-5 gallons of well water per pot. The girls are thirsty but the heat isn't sucking the water out of the pots. The girls are in full vegative phase 2 and continue to gain height. This week was a great success. The girls really stretched and tipped out at 89". That's over 7 feet not counting the pot. The weather was very pleasant. We had a few hot days but mostly cool fall type weather. The defoliation and treatment of powdery mildew with Growers Ally fungicide ended that problem. These plants do have a high level of resistance but not immunity. I'll continue to treat once a week. Most growers don't talk about their fungal pathogens or treatment of them. Outdoors, if your plants aren't immune (many fastbuds I've grown from seed have been) then this is an issue you'll deal with if you have cool humid nights. There are many treatments and preventatives and some are scarey. My grows are all organic and I carefully chose Growers Ally fungicide as I smoke these plants and don't want anything scarey in(systemic) or on them. Thanks for stopping by and checking out my grow.

She's developing very nice on her second week, she's not developing as good as her sisters but she's definitely coming along. Let's see how she performs. 💎💚👨‍🌾

This is the last post with mid quality pictures and video since I will be going home soon 😀. It is a bit rainy back home so she has to be under a roof or inside a lot of the time. The nutes will be upped to 4ml/l for both the grow and the bloom nutes.

July 20th. 36 days post flip Clones: These things will not stop growing. I should have known with them being landraces but I am super cropping multiple tops every single day to keep the buds off the lights. Interestingly the plants no longer seem to be burning even when they are directly touching these lights. I’ve never grown a plant this resilient in my entire life but shows what nature is capable of. Some clones have a more modern bud structure but one of them has this crazy almost spear like structure going on. Super excited to see how they smoke in a few months. No longer seeing any deficiency’s on any new leaves due to the nutrients last week. Will likely avoid adding anything else except some build a flower here in a week or so. Smell is finally starting to take off. So far very peppery but also a slight off smell as well. Can’t quite put my nose on it but hopefully in a week or so will start to get even more smell. Parents: Parents got topped aggressively a week ago on July 12th in order to keep them small. All 4 are already showing new nodes and recovery. So far they have been in these small fabric pots for 20 weeks with no signs of deficiency. I think the secret to that success has been low power lights limiting growth, no night cycle so the plants cannot develop the roots needed, and the fabric pots air pruning the roots so they don’t ball up. At this point simply going to continue topping every month or so and once they start showing deficiency will move them into slightly larger pots God bless!

High GD community, I cant believe its 3 weeks since ive started this grow. Time flies!!! The lights are only 3 days in a better position. First it was tight up to the roof, now ive changed that so i can easely change height. I also only use 190w of the 320 available. So they still need to adapt to the new settings. Ive thrown some alpha alpha seeds in there and allready some not composted tomato seedlings start to pop up. They are still in their first pots of 2l, because rooting is not yet to the bottom. But they are standing on their future housing. I have to say, im quite pleased with how the soil looks. Theres not to much big pieces of uncomposted materials. I hope to see some exponential growth coming days, so next week transplant is on schedule. Thats it for this week Grow safe buds 🙏🍀🍀🍀🙏

End of Week 1 of flower All is well so far

D64/F20 - 03/06/23 - The situation is under control now. I'm going to change water asap (maybe tonight) D65/F21 - 04/06/23 - 👉 Water changed, some hours without nutes... D66/F22 - 05/06/23 - EC 0.8 ph 7.0 D67/F23 - 06/06/23 - EC 0.8 ph 7.3 - added pH- D68/F24 - 07/06/23 - Added water and nutes EC 0.9 and pH 6.3 D69/F25 - 08/06/23 - EC 0.9 and pH 6.3 D70/F26 - 09/06/23 - Added water and Calmag, Connoisseur Bloom A-B. Added pH-. EC 1.0 and pH 5.5

🌺🌌 Runtz by Zamnesia 🌌🌺 🌌30.5 ... 🌌31.5 ... 🌌1.6 ... 🌌2.6 ... 🌌3.6 Ok I admit, I'm already running out of steam. I rested on my laurels a bit, pushed by the propitious moment of my situation. I receive daily requests for collaborations, questions regarding cultivation and I am expanding my social network. This has led me to walk away from the box to spend more time on social media, which has already led to problems as if the plant was telling me "hey you! Shit!" and I was neglecting it. Now I get back in line with at least one photo a day as it should be, otherwise what cultivation diaries would they be? 😆 And after having criticized myself for good, here are two sad and quick info. I seem to have a little leaf miner problem. which is strange, because nothing has been in or out of my house for months, such as soil or insects (I have a double mosquito net, I am very careful), I also reuse the soil a lot before changing it. I really don't know where they came from. I have already split the leaves well and am ordering neem oil in advance. For the rest, everything is going great. The third internode begins to be seen; when its leaves are formed enough (4-5 days) I will start the manifold. Yeah! 🌌4.6 🌌5.6 __________________________________________ ❓ Are you new to the world of the cultivation and don't know where to safely buy your seeds? 😮Zamnesia boasts the most complete and accurate site where you can find everything related to cannabis and the "psychedelic" world. Autoflowering, feminized seeds, mushrooms, salvia divinorum, afrodisiacim of everything, and more! ✅http: //bit.ly/ZamnesiaSeeds _________________________________________________________________ 👀 Are you looking for a good lamp to start with? 👀 🌞Viparspectra has something more than the others, take a look at their site. ✅ https://bit.ly/ViparspectraXSSeries ⏩ Use "GDVIP" for an extra discount or "DREAMIT" for an extra 5 %% discount 👀 Search for it on Amazon ✅https://amzn.to/3ttb2j9 ⏩ Use the code - lt10gdvip - for an extra 10% discount 👀 Watch my ViparSpectra XS1000 unboxing on YouTube, leave a like and write to the channel 🦄 ✅http://bit.ly/UnboxingViparSpectraDreamIT __________________________________________________________________ 📷🥇 Follow the best photos on Instagram 🥇📷 https://www.instagram.com/dreamit420/ 🔻🔻Leave a comment with your opinion if you pass by here🔻🔻 🤟🦄💚 Thank you and enjoy the growth 💚🦄🤟

Vamos súper las veo sanas y sin problema e pegado una poda a la que me faltaba y que sigan creciendo

Day 52 They got some Sunburn, and i fixxed it late, bad for the plants but they grow !

-Trichomes looking ready -Gave last watering and will harvest in the dark in a few days -Reeking like a mix of garlic and herbs!

Regando 3 x na semana com água. Previsão de corte na próxima semana. Muito contente com meu cultivo e pela ajuda de todos aqui grows. 🌱🌱🌱🌱👊🏼

Ahoooj 🍀 Další týden za mnou. Řekl bych ze bez nějakých vaznch problému.( Aspoň doufám )😅 jinak u předchozího modelu co tu mám “TheNew” . Mám nejaky (problémy) ,tak jestli mate čas. Napište mi k tomu jestlinse tím mate nějaký zkušenosti. A zda je to velký. Peoblem . Jsem linej to vše zase předělávat a lepit to u bodu kde je to rozlomene. 😅🤦‍♂️🏼 Problém : po zastrihnuti jsem naplnul hlavní tepny a po čase se mi roztomily trošičku na místech kde byly zastrihnute. Příjemný den BRATŘI .🍀

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Buds should be dried in the dark at 22 degrees Celsius and 50% humidity