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So... the Preflowering is real... we've got immens Plants which just want to Flower. I'm totally impressed about this Green Gold at Outdoor Conditions. - Greetings your organically » tried and true, since simple is the best!

Grow diaries has been a new and fun way for me to keep track of my grow, learning heaps through the questions and answers, theres some real knowledgeable growers that are helping who they can with a positive community surrounding. Good stuff. Cheers guys

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!! 1/7/26 6:10AM...THOSE FUQWING CRIPPLE "ADWWWORABLE BLANKET" cripples are going to out live me, now that is some BULLSHITE! IM ALSO HAVEING ISSUES WITH A LARGE GROUP OF CERTAIN KIND OF PERSONSS...SO I HAD AN IDEA...BUT.....IT TURNS OUT THE GERMANS HAD THE SAME IDEA 80 YEARS AGO...AND I JUST DONT WANT TO BE THOUGHT OF AS A COPY CAT. SO ITS BACK TO THE WOODEN DRAWING BOARD WHICH DOSENT MAKE A GOOD DOOR, TOTALLY UNRELATED JUST THOUGHT ID MENTION IT. 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

Growin

Plan is doing very well. Paul needed about four or five times this week with about 12 to 15 flowers. Hand pollination occurred. Hopefully everything took

8/3 12:36AM MONDAY FULL RETARD MODE ACTIVATED 8/3 10AM " They look solid for where they are. **Quick visual read:** - **Right plant (front)** — strongest of the three. Good color, solid node spacing, leaves are filling out nicely, no obvious stress. This one is handling the current feed best. - **Back plant (Mendo Frost)** — clean and upright, healthy light-to-medium green. Looking very consistent. - **Left plant (front)** — a bit behind the other two in size and leaf development. Color is still good, but it’s the lagging phenotype of the three. Common with mixed RF3 packs — you’ll often get one that starts slower. None of them are showing tip burn, clawing, or dark “overfed” green, which means your decision to keep the EC at 0.93 while adding the light amino dose was correct. They’re not hungry yet either (no pale yellowing or slow growth signs), so jumping straight to 1.1 without aminos today is a clean next step. At this stage (early veg, still small pots/coco), staying in the 0.9–1.2 range is ideal for RF3s and Mendo Frost. They’re still building structure and roots more than bulk. Once the stronger two start putting on more rapid growth and the internodes begin tightening a bit, you can ease toward the higher end of that range. One small observation: the left plant’s lower leaves look a touch softer/less turgid than the others. Keep an eye on whether that improves after the next watering. If it stays lagging while the other two take off, you can always give it a slightly lighter feed or just let it catch up at its own pace — mixed packs almost always have one slower starter. Overall they look healthy and on track. The amino experiment didn’t push them over. You’re dialed in right now."" 8/5 12:16AM. 8/3 Grandpa from the Lost Boys Mode activated 8/7 3:41am 👍 Yes, 400 mg each of L-proline and L-phenylalanine in a gallon of water is a low, one-time dose that should have only a minor effect on EC. Rough concentration 1 US gallon ≈ 3.785 L ~400 mg of each → roughly 105–106 mg/L per amino acid (total ~210–212 mg/L). Proline molecular weight is ~115 g/mol, so this is about 0.9 mM. Phenylalanine is higher MW (~165 g/mol), so closer to 0.6 mM. These are in the range commonly discussed for plant use (often 0.5–2 mM or a few hundred mg per gallon for proline as a stress aid). Effect on EC Amino acids do contribute some conductivity because they can ionize (especially depending on pH), but far less than mineral fertilizer salts at the same mass. At this low concentration the rise is usually modest—often in the 0.1–0.3 mS/cm ballpark or less, depending on your starting water, existing nutrients, and meter. In practice, many growers add pure L-amino acids at similar or higher rates without big EC swings. The big EC jumps seen in some studies come from much higher doses of mixed commercial amino products. Measure your solution EC (and pH) before and after dissolving them so you know exactly what happened in your mix. If you’re already running a target EC for the autos, you can simply account for the small bump or dilute slightly if needed. Will it help / any downside? L-Proline: Plants accumulate it under stress (heat, drought, salinity, osmotic stress). Exogenous proline is often used to support osmotic adjustment and stress tolerance. A single modest dose is unlikely to hurt and may give a small buffer if the plants are dealing with any environmental stress. L-Phenylalanine: Precursor in the phenylpropanoid pathway (leads toward flavonoids, lignin precursors, and various secondary metabolites). Some research and grower use explores it for supporting secondary metabolism; effects are more variable and usually not dramatic from one application. Because this is a one-time introduction at a conservative rate, risk of imbalance or toxicity is low for autoflowers and your other plants. Amino acids are generally well-tolerated when kept moderate; the main caveats with higher or repeated doses are possible effects on nitrogen metabolism or nutrient uptake patterns, and the fact that they can feed microbes if the solution sits too long. Practical notes These are pure L-forms from the labels (BulkSupplements and Nutricost), which is what you want. Dissolve fully, check pH/EC, and use reasonably soon. For coco or other soilless media, just include it in a normal feed or water event. No need to change your overall regimen for a single application. Keep an eye on the plants for a few days after (normal advice with any new input). If everything looks happy, you’re good. You’re not wrong for trying a light one-off addition of these two. It’s a reasonable, low-risk experiment at the dose you used. Measuring the actual EC change will give you the clearest answer for your specific water and nutrient base..👍 8/7 11:54 PM Classic Stock Car Race Replays by My Journey 4K.... distracted by classic cars again

Great week popped in a day! Germination took 1 day also! Growing fast! Fastbuds!

Hey now, was a pretty good week for the Sour D, I didn't really make any changes as far as the nutes, still at EC of 1.6, with water from my dehumidifier, then cal mag, then maxi bloom powder, then liquid kool bloom. Only real issue I had this week was on day 58 I noticed her leaning a little bit, and I went to move her pot, and she almost toppled over. It really scared the crap out of me, so that is why you now see all the wire tires wrapped around her base. Definitely something I will be more mindful of in the future. Still dealing with high temps and humidity, but my dehumidifier has been a real Beast. I will also add that when I open that tent, the smell of Diesel Fuel, and Lemons smack me in the face like a 2x4. I have never smelled anything that pungent before. I am amazed at how well my Terra bloom carbon filter is doing, although I am sure it helps I have an 8x24" inch filter and Infinity T8 exhaust running on the lowest possible setting in my tiny little tent. Really hoping for some thick and sticky flowers! Thanks for checking me out and and Blaze On....

05/18 I have a question Should defoliation continue? The light hits the buds and is unnecessary, but some growers advise getting rid of the foliage so that power from the roots goes to the buds. I plan to leave it as it is and only occasionally remove 5-10 leaves that are shadow. What can you advise in my situation? 05/20 1200 ml. на каждый куст с добавлением Bona Forte 5ml/l 05/24 1500 ml. воды с добавлением Bona Forte 6ml/l для Auto Lowryder and Auto Brooklyn Sunrise

And here we are with another week just over... And most probably next week I will also chop her down!! In these week probably for the heat stress she got I started seeing some main buds foxtailing. We are in the 10/14 days of plain pHed water, but I'm considering cutting her before the full flush is complete, this cause I can also see some amber trichomes. For now that's all, but now more than ever stay tuned for the next week, which will be most likely the harvest week! Stay high peeps!!

Festive! Short on time. More to come soon.

Day 82 - She is growing beautifully, buds are huge & smell like ⛽️ started flushing this week will be cutting her down in the next week or 2! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!🙏🏼🌱✌️🏼

Добавил немного света ест она хорошо по 3 литра в сутки

Trichomes everywhere 👍💚😉

Everthing is cool Pheno 02 is looking good for flower already I'm keeping them very low with lst so when the strech they don't become a issue. Defoliate some leaves on the number 04 cos they were in the way of the light for the new

W7 - GRETA 🌱is growing well. I again defoliate some leaves from top brunches (compare with week 6) just to make the top canopy slightly less dense. That will allow more sunlight receive by lower brunches a specially when they in the flowering period. Still using garden wire to hold down two top branches. She looks like bonsai cannabis 🎉 😘 I am happily watching her grow 🙂

I’m not too happy with the rate of growth but I knew I would be as I didn’t put dynomyco in (purposely) I’ve been feeding every 2 weeks (top feed) with Phyco myco (started last feed) and am seeing some beneficial changes! But will see in time just how much! I was 1” ahead last time and 10” ahead the time before that! So will be running the organic fertiliser next time with dynomyco and just feeding water and seeing the outcome of that! Autos are my testing ground now! As I know exactly what to do with photos! 😉