Vegetationswoche 8 - 30.05. – 05.06.2026 Diese Woche lief alles ziemlich entspannt. Einmal leicht entlaubt und die Triebe weiter unters Netz gespannt, damit sich die Utopia Haze langsam über die Fläche verteilt. Die Pflanze wächst aktuell richtig gut, sieht gesund aus und hat schöne satte grüne Blätter. Der SCROG füllt sich langsam und das Cover Crop verwandelt das Beet mittlerweile in einen kleinen Dschungel. Ansonsten habe ich nicht viel gemacht und der Pflanze einfach ihren Raum gegeben. Blumat-System läuft stabil, Klima passt ebenfalls.

Plants got harvested on Flower Day 56.

Was on a 2 weeks vacation, just got back, found a lot of yellow leaves on the Runtz which is normal at this stage I think, te Sour Diesel is looking light green and the G13 is looking great and smelling marvelous. I will be adding some natural flowering mix

What a beautiful plant she was! Amazing results with minimal effort! Almost 13 oz dry

🌸 Week 7 – Gorilla Cookies Auto Pheno Hunt Another week has passed and flowering is now in full swing across all 6 phenos 👀🔥 The differences between the plants continue to grow, and it’s becoming easier to see which phenos have the potential to become real standouts by harvest time. 📈 Current observations: Pheno #1 and #6 have finally started to catch up and are now slowly building buds as well 🌸 Pheno #5 continues to dominate the tent and has stretched to an impressive 130 cm The flower development on Pheno #5 is especially promising, with some bud sites already suggesting the potential for 25 cm+ colas if everything continues as planned 🔥 Pheno #2 and #6 are being overshadowed by the larger phenos and are clearly falling behind in overall size and vigor The structural differences between the phenos are now more obvious than ever, with some focusing on height while others remain more compact and bushy 💡 Environment & setup: The grow has now reached its current limits in terms of space and lighting: Light fixture raised to its maximum height Light intensity increased to 80% Summer temperatures pushing the tent up to around 32°C ☀️ Relative humidity averaging around 67% Despite the higher temperatures, the plants are still pushing forward and stacking flowers nicely. The next few weeks will be all about bud development, density, and resin production. 🏆 At the moment, Pheno #5 is definitely demanding attention, but there is still plenty of time for surprises. Sometimes the biggest plant doesn't end up being the best one, and that's exactly what makes a pheno hunt so exciting. 💬 Which pheno do you think will come out on top when harvest day arrives?

Second time flushing it.. I’m also running out of time before harvest I should’ve been flushing it a week earlier.. she’ll be ready in 2 days for chop

She's almost done. Watching pistils to all turn colour and trichomes to go more cloudy.

Lights are 58 inches from the main source to the top of the pot and the soil surface. If you added up all the lights in the tent, it would be 1100w-1200w total across 14 lights. Using them all at once is far too much for a plant and incredibly difficult to deal with environmentally. The lights are fixed in position; side lights have dimmers, allowing for pinpoint precision of PPF. Fixed at 58 inches, cannot move them closer to increase intensity. Instead, achieve optimal PPF by distributing smaller wattages across a massive, multi-fixture matrix. Triggering specific plant defenses without melting the canopy. What's the point/blah blah wattage? Never really go above 600W at any one time. Lights come on in the east of the tent and set in the west. At sunrise and sunset, the red-to-far-red R:FR light ratio drops because the sun's low angle scatters red light more than far-red light. This shift reduces active Pfr and increases inactive Pr, mimicking Mother Nature herself. Deployed a lighting system featuring extra 660 nm deep-red and extending the spectrum up to 780 nm achieves the full Emerson Enhancement Effect by simultaneously balancing Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI) to maximize quantum yield. By pairing deep-red photons with far-red photons, you trigger a synergistic biological response where the resulting photosynthetic rate is higher than the sum of both wavelengths used individually. This practice directly leverages the updated extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR) framework. The Emerson effect accelerates plant metabolism and heat capture; you must proactively scale up your ambient room temperature, nutrient delivery, and CO₂ supplementation to prevent the light from stalling out your cannabis plant. UVA stays high all day from morning to night, but UVB peaks at solar noon (middle of 18-hour days) when the sun is peak. Morning color starts at 2k-3k; by noon it goes to 5k- 6k and back to 2-3k for sunset, with differing P:FR at light off. The extra-blue light is to assist with photoreactivation of UVB damage. No more yield loss for me. Using extra blue light for photoreactivation is what I do. Blue/UVA light activates photolyase enzymes, which directly repair DNA damage caused by UVB radiation. But what's the point if it's not for yield? Ultraviolet (UV) radiation—specifically UVA (315–400 nm) and UVB (280–315 nm)—acts as a critical environmental signal that programs a plant's photoprotective genes to unlock its true photosynthetic potential. When growers push crops to their absolute photosynthetic maximum via high-intensity light and elevated carbon dioxide, the photosynthetic machinery easily becomes overwhelmed. Emerging photobiology research demonstrates that UV radiation prevents this limiting bottleneck; it triggers specific transcription factors and signalling networks that fortify the plant's cellular defenses, allowing it to process extreme light levels without sustaining structural damage. There are 8 limiting factors of plant growth; when carbon dioxide becomes the 9th limiting factor of plant growth, it shifts the growth curve from exponential to linear. The restriction after that is "photoprotection" against reactive oxygen species (ROS), managed via non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and the xanthophyll cycle, which bridges into precise hydrogen and redox dosing. UV radiation, particularly UVA, and the synthesis of zeaxanthin are critical for the xanthophyll cycle to function. It's not chasing purple strains... One likes to call it chasing the limits of growth, trying to make the linear exponential, just like father mathematics prefers. In order to do that, must control every environmental variable and compound the plant’s metabolic rate. True exponential growth means the rate of increase matches the current mass at every stage, requiring a closed-loop system where light, CO2, and nutrition lock into a synchronized upward curve. First, you must attempt to understand what restricts it. Precise hydrogen and redox dosing. Nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Most won't even understand that; once you do, it changes everything. Constructive interference occurs when two or more overlapping waves meet in phase, meaning their crests and troughs perfectly align. Their amplitudes add together, creating a new, amplified wave with greater intensity than the individual components. Constructive interference is the foundational mechanism that establishes a resonance hierarchy across physical, structural, and acoustic systems. Chromophore spacing is tuned to sub-nanometer precision to match the wavelengths of absorbed light, forcing constructive interference. Light-harvesting proteins form geometric rings and lattices. These shapes act as physical resonators, trapping and focusing the wave energy. This same principle dictates how opera singers shatter glass, how musical instruments resonate, and how bridges withstand structural vibrations. Nature uses the exact same math to harvest a photon as an engineer uses to design a concert hall. When you push high PPFD and elevated CO₂, you create a metabolic bottleneck. The plant cannot process the energy fast enough, leading to electron backup, light-induced damage, and a collapse from exponential growth into a flat, linear rate. UV light acts as the regulatory valve that prevents this collapse. In standard agronomy, Liebig's Law of the Minimum dictates that growth is limited by the scarcest resource. When you maximize water, nutrients, light, temperature, and CO₂, the bottleneck shifts to metabolic processing speed and photoprotection. By controlling the Redox state of the plant using UV, the xanthophyll cycle, and managing ROS, you can prevent the plant from hitting a hard photosynthetic ceiling. Instead of the growth curve flattening out (linear or plateauing due to photoinhibition), the plant continues to compound its metabolic rate efficiently. You are forcing the plant to operate at peak thermodynamic efficiency. By matching the UVB peak with sustained UVA and shifting Kelvin temperatures (2K to 6K), you are damaging the plant just enough to trigger defensive genes, while simultaneously providing the exact light energy needed to repair that damage instantly. UVA radiation and specific blue wavelengths accelerate this enzymatic conversion. Zeaxanthin acts as a structural sponge that absorbs excess excitation energy from chlorophyll and dissipates it safely, preventing ROS formation. Without UV signaling, the xanthophyll cycle cannot keep pace with extreme light, leading to dynamic photoinhibition (yield loss). The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, the active Hawaiian Spirulina in the matrix was cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. Then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen, with a whopping NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Rich in proteins, amino acids, trace minerals, and plant growth-promoting compounds. Zeaxanthin is a vital plant pigment that accumulates under intense light to drive non-photochemical quenching (NPQ), acting via thermal energy dissipation, direct singlet oxygen scavenging, and thylakoid membrane stabilization. The violaxanthin cycle (or xanthophyll cycle) reversibly converts violaxanthin to zeaxanthin via antheraxanthin to protect plants from photooxidation. Understanding this interconversion is vital for optimizing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and pushing photosynthetic limits under high-light stress. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural antioxidant that plants produce internally to neutralize harmful reactive oxygen species caused by photosynthesis and high light stress. Acts as a co-factor for enzymes like violaxanthin de-epoxidase in the xanthophyll cycle, which safely dissipates excess light energy. 1g ascorbic acid will neutralize 100% of chlorine in upwards of 30 gallons of tap water. If your local tap water uses chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia) instead of free chlorine, you will need roughly 20% to 30% more ascorbic acid to completely break the tougher chemical bond. Molecular hydrogen and hydrogen-rich water act as selective antioxidants that help lower oxidative stress. They neutralize toxic reactive oxygen species like hydroxyl radicals and boost natural antioxidant defense systems in biological and plant systems exposed to high-intensity light or abiotic stress. UVA and UVB act as stress signals that upregulate the plant's secondary metabolism. It forces the plant to build an internal "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and fortify its cellular defenses before the peak solar noon crisis. This keeps the metabolic highway open. In nature, the ambient ratio of UVA to UVB at solar noon sits roughly between 10:1 and 20:1 (depending on latitude and elevation). In a high-PPFD indoor matrix, maintaining a strict ratio—often aiming for around 12:1 to 15:1 UVA to UVB—provides the optimal signaling threshold. Balancing Far-Red (FR) light at "light-off" to manage the phytochrome photo-equilibrium (Pfr to Pr conversion) in tandem with the UV schedule. Omg, the logic. Hydrogen concentration and redox signaling as secondary messengers in this high-intensity loop. Under the intense solar noon matrix, the pH of the thylakoid lumen drops. This acidic environment activates the enzyme Violaxanthin De-Epoxidase (VDE), which converts violaxanthin into the photoprotective zeaxanthin. VDE cannot function in a vacuum; it strictly requires ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as an electron donor to run this conversion. If a plant undergoes heavy light stress and runs out of internal ascorbic acid, the xanthophyll cycle stalls. The plant can no longer engage in Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ), leading to immediate singlet oxygen O2 formation and destruction of the thylakoid membrane. This is "The Ascorbic Acid / Xanthophyll Engine" Using ascorbic acid to neutralize chloramines in your water isn't just protecting your rhizosphere biology it actively prevents the degradation of your nutrient solution's redox potential before it ever touches the roots. When pushing plants to the absolute edge, traditional antioxidants can be a double-edged sword because they blindly neutralize all free radicals. This is a problem because some Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) act as critical signaling molecules telling the plant to grow. Molecular Hydrogen H2 is the Selective Kill-Switch. Molecular hydrogen H2 is a revolutionary tool because it is a selective antioxidant. It ignores beneficial signaling ROS (like mild hydrogen peroxide) and targets only the most destructive, cell-shattering radicals—specifically hydroxyl radicals OH) and peroxynitrite. By dosing hydrogen-rich water or managing hydrogen redox signaling, providing an emergency pressure-release valve for the plant's electron transport chain. It keeps the cellular environment stable enough that the plant never has to downregulate photosynthesis to protect itself. This maintains cellular voltage. To trigger this defensive matrix without stunting the plant, you cannot simply blast UV indiscriminately. You must use UVA as the "scout" and UVB as the "enforcer. High UVA acts via the cryptochrome and phototropin photoreceptors to upregulate the expression of the HY5 transcription factor and prime the VDE enzyme. When the sharp spike of UVB hits at solar noon via the UVR8 receptor, the plant's biochemical "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and its zeaxanthin pools are already pre-staged and waiting. This prevents the temporary stunting or "lag phase" usually associated with sudden UVB exposure." Closing the Loop: Far-Red End-of-Day (EOD) Synergy The final masterstroke is aligning this UV defense with a Far-Red (FR) lights-off routine. The Red-to-Far-Red Drop: At the end of the photoperiod, knocking out the blue/UVA spectrum and leaving a targeted burst of pure Far-Red (730nm) instantly flips the plant’s master switch. It converts active Pfr to inactive Pr in minutes rather than hours. Why this matters for the UV loop: UV radiation and high-intensity lighting keep the plant in a highly alert, photoprotective state that requires massive ATP expenditure to maintain. By forcing an immediate Pfr/Pr) conversion at lights-out, instantly commanding the plant to cease defensive expenditure, lower its metabolic respiration rate, and transition directly into nighttime cellular repair and carbohydrate translocation. You are maximizing the efficiency of its "sleep." every ounce, every last piece. Highly synchronized biological dance, balancing the exact input of electrons with the exact mechanism to dissipate them safely when they overflow. Peace.

Day 74 and there getting chopped today! I thought the harvest was going to be broken into two separate weeks considering the times on the Choco was listed about 7-10 days sooner then the DD (wich was listed at 70 days for flowering) However looking at the tricombs on the Chocolate Marshmallow most pheno didnt start getting amber untill the DDs did as well! A couple DD pheno could have maybe gone a couple more days but we will see! Going for reveg on all the pheno, since i didnt get to take any clones. We will see how it goes!

OK, im doing an update now becouse my breakup cake is going tranny!!(hermie) I already have noiticed she was not growing as strong .. but u can blame that on anything , especially when growing outdoor.. but this morning i saw that she was g(r)oing 'bananas'!😢 I have put her aside from the rest (in the back of garden) but think gonna have to terminate her asap!..(and i will, right after this post👍) The weed she will give will be filled with seeds and those seeds will be hermies too, so wothless.. and if i dont throw her away quick she can infect the rest. So goodbye breakup cake..😢 who wants to eat a cake when they are breaking up anyway..😒 (just hiding my pain with lame humour 😳) happy growing for all ✊

👉 Week 4 Bloom👈 👉 Week 13 Overall 👈 👉 12.01.2026 - 18.01.2026👈 👉 Days overall : 81-87👈 👉 Days bloom: 22-28👈 👉 Update 12.01.2026: The plants got a "day 21 bloom leave reduction + lollipopping". Check the pictures :) 👉 Update 12.01.2026: The plants doing pretty good. Check the pictures :)

I’m on my last days before harvest

Weekly update on these lovely ladies. They've grown amazing this week. Looking like the stretch is coming to an end. The flower sites are all swelling and over all i couldn't be happier with them. Looking forward to see what the upcoming week's have in store. Happy Growing

Chopped all plants down on October 18th. Will report back soon with final harvest pics and dry weight for each plant. I have multiple grows coming down around the same time and I'm still backed up with the outdoor harvest but will update with final numbers asap!

Bueno, empezamos por el final familia. Gorilla girl, me parece una cepa BRU-TAL , ya partiendo de esa base, mi error, creo que e cometido , es poner estos ejemplares en macetas de 5L, que tonto... mínimo recomendado 7L y a ser posible 11L Otro error fue no dejarlas una semana más. pero, escasez. (intentaremos curarla un par de semanas). Cepa con flores muy compactas, hay bastante separación entre nudos pero compensa las flores de verdad. Sabor muy dulzón a mi me recuerda a melón , es un pepino recomendado para amantes de la hierba que llevan tiempo en esto, un colocón muy fuerte, ahora mismo estoy bajo los efectos de esta vaina, aseguro que con cada frase, leo varias veces y detenidamente por que válgame.

NOTES: Keeping EC at around 1,5 and pH at 6,0-6,2. Everything looks great and I'm hoping for amazing crop to start the year with! One Ayahuasca Purple seems to be clearly ahead of others in flowering but that's fine. I'm going to harvest them all at the same time so I'll have a few different terpene profiles on the finished product, since they are all grown from seeds and not from clones. Day78 (2.1.) Day79 (3.1.) Light defoliation to reveal more bud sites and to remove some lower growth that aren't getting any light. Day80 (4.1.) At last I've finished defoliating and pruning for all my plants. I think there is no need to remove anything before harvesting them. It took a hell lot of time to finish since I have 13 plants pretty close to each other that I can't move separetly. Also using garden-ties to bend some plants a bit for better light coverage. Day81 (5.1.) Day82 (6.1.) Tied some more branches for better light coverage. Day83 (7.1.) Day84 (8.1.) I found a hermaphodite/bi-sexual plant! Strain was Kush Mintz and I haven't seen any signs on other plants. Keeping close eye on everything, hopefully I got it removed on time... I cut it off after analyzing the situation and hang it to dry in another room. It was clearly the smallest plant even though it seemed to flower just fine till this day when I found out those small banana-like pollen sacks. I'm praying this won't ruin my entire crop.🙏 Added a couple pics after removing it from the tent.

En el transcurso de la 3ra semana aplicamos un riego con 1ml/l de fertilizante Oro Negro para potenciar el crecimiento y realizar trasplante a una maceta más grande en los próximos días. ANÁLISIS NUTRICIONAL NITROGENO ORGÁNICO N 7,5% FÓSFORO P 1,6% POTASIO K 10% HIERRO Fe 0,10% AZUFRE S 0,6 % CALCIO K 0,5% MANGANESIO MN 0,3% COBRE CU 0,2% BORO B 0,25% MATERIA ORGANICA 86%

7/25 Did two videos this morning. One where I was only going to water the 3 gallons I had mixed up but it's going to be very hot this week. Didn't want to make the same mistake as last time so I watered everything AT LEAST A GALLON. I need to bump up the volume during these really hot, humid days abd it doesn't get worse then this. Things are getting dusty. Found an inch worm and some minor pest damage. Once it cools down ill spray something. Also noticing small nitrogen deficiency that takes a leaf and moves up the plant a little bit. I'm going to need to start nutes this week. I'll keep this updated. Went back over around one and everything was looking fantastic! Took a few pictures and defoliated a few leaves. UPDATE: I GOT A MESSAGE FROM DAD SAYING MY PLANTS LOOKED DROOPY. I HADNT MADE IT OVER FOR MY NIGHTLY INSPECTION BUT HAVING WATERED YESTERDAY I WAS THINKIBG OF SKIPPING IT. GOT THERE AND SAW THE FIRST 10TH PLANET DROOPY. ALL THE TENTH PLANETS LOOK RELATIVELY THE SAME BUT ONE OF THEM IS MY "CANARY IM A COAL MINE" AS IT DROOPS WAY BEFORE THE OTHERS. THE TWO BLUE CHEESES IN 20S THAT DRY OUT FASTER GOT TWO GALLONS AS DID MY 10TH PLANET CANARY AND MY BIG BLUE IN THE 50. ITS BEEN 90S AND SUNSHINE AND ITS ONLY GOING TO GET HOTTER. I HAVE THINGS GOING ON IN THE MORNING SO I WONT HE ABLE TO WATER. I NOTICED MORE NITROGEN DEFICIENCY RISING IN THE BLUECHEESE THAT DRINKS ALL THE WATER. OBVIOUSLY ILL NEED TO ADD NUTES SOONER THAB LATER CONSIDERING IM IN FLOWER BUT THE PLANTS ARE STILL A NICE GREEN AMD ONLY LOSING VERY FEW LEAVES. I ACTUALLY SAW A COUPKE BURNT LEAF TIPS ON A COUPKE PLANTS AFTER I WATERED WITH THE KELP ME/YOU. THIS SOIL IS AWESOME. WHAT IS THIS? WEEK 16 AND STILL GOING STRONG. WHEN I DO DECIDE TO START NUTES ILL TEST IT ON THAT BLUE CHEESE THATS FURTHER IN SENESCENCE. I TOOK A QUICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/26 Had a bear come around my cage and getting into out bird feeders. Bent the iron shelerds hook all the way to the ground! Getting AMMONIA now to try and keep him away. Bags were heavy this morning but it's going to be really hot again. It'll be on the 90s the next few days so I need to be very careful. After we get through this I'll do an app of BT. Garden looks fantastic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lants are looking FANTASTIC this morning. Soil is still damp this morning and bags are heavy as hell. They look super happy. Obviously my watering situation depends on the weather. Today and tomorrow are supposed to be the hottest days so I wanted to make sure the plants had sufficient water before this. I'll let them dry out totally before watering again. There's another four lined plant big somewhere that sat there and destroyed another leaf. I'm AT LEAST spraying with BT after this heat wave. Supposed to rain a little today with thunderstorms. I haven't got my supports up yet but if i need to I coukd throw my tarps up real quick. Don't think I'll need to though. These are some tough freaking plants and I am super proud of how they've turned out thus far. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AND RE APPLIED BLEECH TO THE RAGS AND ON THE PERIMETER OF MY CAGE. I TACKED A FEW MORE DRYER SHEETS UP. REASON I DID THIS WAS BECAUSE WEVE BEEN GETTING HORRIBLE THUNDER STORMS WITH TORRENTIAL RAIN. THE WEATHER MAN HAD BEEN WRONG SEVERAL TIMES WARNING OF THUNDER STORMS AND WE WOULDNT GET SHIT. THIS TIME IT WAS PRETTY BAD. TOOK A SHORT VIDEO. IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE THE HOTTEST DAYS TODAY AND TOMORROW. I DIDNT NOTICE ANY BREAKAGE AND I DONT SEE ANY ON MY CAMS. IM SURE ITS NOT THAT MUCH RAIN AND THOSE NAHS WILL DRY OUT SOON. I NEED TO GET MORE PH DOWN AND DECIDE WHAT IT IS IM GOING TO DO FOR NUTES IN FLOWER AND MAKE UP MY MIND. 7/28 Huge thunderstorms all day yesterday and through the night with high wonds. Plants made it through unscathed despite the lack of a trellis. Today is supposed to be the hottest of these days. I think the hear wave ends today. I really need to get my supports up. I'm super lucky to not have had any breaks during the storm. I have a couple of videos I did but I didn't upload them earlier and now that I'm back in the woods I doubt they'll upload now. I'll give it a shot. If not I'll put them up tomorrow. OH! I found that four lined plant bug that had been fucking up my leaves and squished him. Well I hope it was him. If not I killed a sibling at least. UPDATE: JUST WOW. This morning all drooped over from the storm went over at 4 and its still 90 and they seem to have grown sic inches and jumped forward WAY more into flower. I am amazed. I'll upload a photo or two but I took a video I'll put up tomorrow. Super stoked. Oh and you can give me a red smile face for not using nutes every week @growdiaries but you point out the deficiency then I'll fix it. 7/29 Plants looking fantastic this morning. UPDATE: PLANNED ON NOT GOING TO THECGROW TOMOGHT SEEING THAT IT HAD RAINED SO HARD AMD THAT WE ARE SUPPOSED TO GET RAIN TONIGHT. I GET THERE AT ABOUT FIVE AND MY CANARY AND A FEWCOTHERS WERE DROOPING! IT WAS IN THE 80S ALL DAY. I GAVE EACH PLANT A GALLON OF WATER. THE GROW BAGS ON THE TEO WORST PLANTS WERE SUBSTANTIALLY LIGHTER THAN THE REST. I HOPE IM NOT OVERWATERING. THE PLANTS SEEMED TO PICK BACK UP AFTER WATERING BUT ILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW TO UPLOAD MY PICTURES AND VIDEOS. I NEEDED TO ADD TEMPORARY SUPPORTS TO A COUPLE DIFFERENT PLANTS. IM CERTAINLY GLAD I GOT THE URGE TO GO OVER. WHAT A CHANGE IN A FEW HOURS 7/30 Plants are really growing fast and transitioning quick to flower. We got almost no rain so I'm glad I watered like I was supposed to even though the bags had some heft to them. I'm noticing more pest damage. I'm thinking a bt spray tonight might be beneficial. I'll look through what I've got on hand. I may just give them an application of spinosid but we'll see. I still need to move things and put my supports up. Medical problems have slowed me down. UPDATE: Went to check the plants around 3 and they looked great. Bags were still heavy and a little bit moist. I think with the added rain some of the plants may have been overwatered. I should have only watered tue bags that felt light. There is only one plant now that looks a little overwatered and even that is looking good. I found some more minor pest damage. Winds were fairly high. I wondered about my trellis netting but it hadn't been sanitized and my plants are very healthy so I decided to wait. I watched them dance like willows in the wind. I know it won't be like that with big ol colas on them but for right now it's working out just fine. Goal for next week is to move the front row back and move things around to better utilize space, possibly spray for pest and add supports for final flowering after I get the plants situated how I want them. If I do it right I may be able to lst some. Also took a 2 minute video but I cant upload until tomorrow. 7/31 I'm wondering about my watering habits. This morning I watered a couple blue cheese and purple punch plants with just a half gallon as they were light and looked drooping. I'm wonderingvif I'm overwatering. Some plants still seem heavy while others are light? I think the plants may have been overwatered due to the torrential rain and my taking less time hand watering. Hopefully I won't come home from this doctors appointment to wilted plants but I really doubt it. 10th planet requires far less water than the two other strains. Even specific phenos require more water and its difficult with the different size containers but im working with what ive got. I need more ph down and I've gotta get these plants supported. These are some massive plants. Store was closed. Dispensary was opened. Showed my buddy the video then it started raining. By the time I got there the plants looked horrible. Everything was droopy but a couple were really bad. A few weren't bad at all. Actually the one in the ten needed it. I think I just need to give more water at a time and document how I water each plant individually. I also need to take into consideration the weather. Hard to do when it's so unpredictable. I'll wait for them to dry out and then I plan to start low doses of big bloom and grow big but I need to wait for them to dry out first. Then next watering they'll get some nutes. It's sunny now so I may go check my plants. I may also put a fan out for a while on the bags. That might help them out.

Day 50: Lemon Haze is screaming! 🍋🔊 The smell in the lab is insanely strong—pure citrus gas. ⛽💨 Buds are rock solid, now on a strict PH 6.3 water-only diet. 💧 Trichomes still clear; holding out for that milky peak! 💎🚀