Over all + Speed Auto is doing well. Seemed a bit slow taking off but she is progressing nicely. Had (1) seedling that completely stalled out. I went ahead and germinated another bean which was placed in soil (germinated tap root about 2 inches long) 5/18. Day 7: + Speed Auto showing second leaves coming in. Still slightly yellow, might be hungry or slightly over-watered. Will feed nutes in the next few days and see. Temp: 75º RH 75% PPFD: 300 VPD: .41 kPa Day 8: Just misting no water or nutes yet. Looking good. Temp: 75º RH 75% PPFD: 300 VPD: .41 kPa Day 9: Fed 2ml Cal-Mag, 2 ml FloraMicro, 1ml FlorGro, 1ml FloraBloom PH 6.2. Temp: 75º RH 70% PPFD: 400 VPD: .72 kPa Day 10: Responging well to nutes. Looking much darker green today, must have been hungry for nutes. Temp: 70º RH 75% PPFD: 400 VPD: .72 kPa Day 11/: Growing and looking darker green today. New leaf growth. Replanted new + Speed Auto in 3 gallon pot. ProMix HP. Temp: 77º RH 55% PPFD: 500 VPD: .67 kPa Day 12/Day 1: +Speed looking healthy. New seedling popped/ Day 1 under humidity dome (Gatorade bottle cut in half). Temp: 73º RH 62% PPFD: 500 VPD: .67 kPa Day 13/Day 2: New leaf growth. + Speed seedling coming along. Temp: 75º RH 60% PPFD: 500 VPD: .62 kPa Day 14/Day 3: New leaf growth. Fed 4ml FloraMicro, 6ml FloraGro, 3ml FloraBloom and 2ml CalMag. Seedling got spritzed/sprayed and left humidity dome in place. Roughly 1" tall with first leaves coming in. Seems to be doing better without rapid rooter start. Temp: 78º RH 61% PPFD: 500 VPD: .76 kPa

Only water

End for this SLH ! Dutch classic I must ran ! Never forget the first time I smoke it in Amsterdam XXX !

Overview of my grow: Tent: Secret Jardin DS120 4 x 4 (120 cm by 120 cm) Lights: 2 x 120 Watt CTlite c4 clusterled Climat: Trotec Dehumidifyer 240 watt- 10L/24h Filter: Prima Klima carbon filter PK2600 fan: 2 x Secret Jardin 20watt osc. fan Pots: Gronest 4 x 11 liter airpots Water : automated water system PH: bluelab Nutrients: Plagron cocos A + B Plagron PK 13/14 ATA cal/mag Epsom salt Week 6 She stretched another 8 cm but i did also some LST so i think it was a little bit more. I think most of the stretch is done for her now. I started this week with a PK boost, so EC is up to 1.4 . i do the PK for one week. You can see some nice pistels and she is stacking up nicely. it is a very easy plant so far. Thanks for watching and feel free to leave a comment 😋

02.11.'24 After 5 days of drying, this little girl who was a little bigger than a meter gave 950 grams and a little bit of popcorn...this picking was 870 and a little bit of popcorn, and 4-5 weeks ago during a storm, one branch broke, which yielded about 100, but let's say 80 for sure, a total of 950 grams of beautiful, huge, potent buds

New week nice development in 2 weeks show the sex too

Starting week 6 Tent is being slowly full A little bit too hot for the next days as the weather outside will climb to 36-38°C, I thnk I will bring them some CO2. I will check with the growshop. Any idea is welcome. The stretch is really impressive, 1 of them get 20cm in 7 days Waiting for the buds 😁 Day 39 I have now added CO2 with an organic boost, it is linked it to the fan. Should be a little bit better with that temperature

8/31 Week 7 and the damned tent is full .... such problems err? 25 sq ft of green, did not expect this really was hoping the extra space would allow more plants but this is full on 5 Plants doing well just trying to make em all fit Nuets remain as is Defoliation to try and get they to fit in the tent a bit easier, removed fan leaves. 9/1 Upped PK to 2ml/g the cotton balls have begun 9/2 Stretch continues hit 28" 9/4 Major defoliation cleaned bottoms middle tops get the buds in light and help them fit in the tent better. Still hitting about 1 inch-ish a day nut seem to be slowing

Sugar leaves getting sugar. Nugs getting nuggie 15 sb 15 cm 30 PBPB Deez

D22. Defoliated, gave plain RO water and dimmed the light. Next is auto irrigation. D23. Finally received all of the Athena nutrients and fed for the first time. D25. Removed the small runt plant with the twisted stem. The plant started growing pollen sacks. D26. Raised light as much as I could without using zip ties. PPFD now 650-790. EC tonight 2.4.

Today I have diced it is time to switch to 12/12 scheme. Net is almost covered and I am expecting some stretch during pre-flower phase. Watering volume is increasing day by day, thanks to my dehumidifier I can keep the VPD around 1.2. Temperature is a thing... probably need to cool down some in a few weeks. Thankfully I am already adding CO2 so that should do it. As you can see I have raised EC a bit. That was easier than bringing the PH down with PH-minus. Some little burned tips on the leaves but I do like the overall colour. So let's see how it goes. 15/06: Sorry... something more important came up than updating my report.... On Monday, I start working for a boss... it's been over 20 years, so it will take some getting used to... I also suddenly had to buy a car because I hate cycling. I usually dislike driving too, but as long as the car has enough power, I can live with it and stay dry. Regarding the ladies... the problem with the persistent lighting does indeed seem to be an internet issue, as it hasn't occurred again. Furthermore, the amens is just brutally large compared to the others and will soon overgrow the whole net. I don't mind... I always prefer the strongest. In the photo from 3 days ago, this is still fairly visible, but in the photos below, it's getting harder to see... Harvesting will also be fun... Keeping the stuff separate by type will be a challenge. Water values are currently nice and stable, though I did increase the CO2 slightly to an average of 1350ppm. I've also already hung my blooming lamps (not visible in the photo). These are again Chinese quantum boards, but 400W each. They will run 4 hours a day for the last 3 weeks. This way, the dehumidifier doesn't have to work as hard, and I keep the stuff around 30˚C. Actually quite satisfied.... the first signs of flowering seem visible, but not convincing enough to take pictures yet...

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Week 2 using Dutch pro grow A and B Dutch pro root solution Calmag , multi total

Lovely week 17

Hey there! I’ve only just started using this site and I’m halfway through this grow so I’ll try and fill in the veg and early flower up until this point. This girl really is on auto pilot. She’s just getting bigger everyday with some really good resin production so early I’m really optimistic that this will be a great harvest. 🙌🏼 She’s a really decent size and has responded incredibly well to LST in Veg. The only defoliation I have done up till this point is if bud sites are covered. Any pointers are always greatly appreciated.