First week of flowering!! I’m glad to have 4 weeks of veg and start flowering. It’s August 17th and this tent can only be out on my balcony until the end of September to early October. So I have about 6-9 weeks of flower time before it’s too cold. I feed 1L every other day with an 8-10ml per litre of the 3 nutes I’m using Royal Gorilla is growing ugly , it’s bush is lush and tangled Day 34 update - Royal Gorilla is actually in vegetation... next week it’ll start flower for sure

FASTBERRY 35 Days from sprout. Light training. Leaf tucking, pony tailing and some bend and secure. Pony tailing seems to help with the side branching. Which will be useful as she seems to be on the smaller side. Possibly due to lower RH early on. Otherwise she seems to be doing ok. Attempted a layer of clay pellets after soaking in PH'd water for 16 hours, to combat the gnats from reaching the soil. I feel like sand may have been a better choice and removed the clay before feeding again. There are so few gnats that its not much of an issue, but I'd like to eliminate the threat before flowering really kicks in.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Heading into week 4 of Flower everything is budin up really nice Zake is the frostiest and really has a mint smell to it Looks like i already can say that breakpad breath will take more than 8 weeks Pink runtz x Hollywood has a Creazy Sweet smell to it

Was a busy week in this tent . Needed my 2x4 tent for some tutankhamon that I have coming up so this big girl got a roommate . Starting to have to feed her every day and a half and she's drinking 1.75 gallon each time . Also had some leaves higher up taco and the tips of the edges go brown and figured out that I sm pretty much over driving the plant with the light . So dropped it down to 70% for now to see how it reacts .

So this week is the start of flower !! Woooohooo finally get to show what I'm made of ! Step one ) take all the big fan leaves Step two ) establish a "light line" and take all small shoots that are unable to get the proper amount of light due to their distance from the top of the canopy. * These are the places we all wish would grow ! These are also the places that are at risk of - hermaphroditism - mold - waste of energy for the plant. ** These are also some of the best places to take clones ** Continue to tie and secure everything in preparation of massize buds ! I hope some people looked at this like " This took way too much off " I took ALOT. Yes I push , I push hard to know how much they can take . Yes I would say 60% of plants DO NOT like a massive defoliating. But, the ones who do , you will unlock a yeild like never seen . It's the risk we take . One thing I have noticed is when I'm gonna defoli , I don't combone high stress or toping + a bunch of other techniques . Should have some pretty huge plants by two months ! Thanks for stopping by more notes and pictures to follow . First week of flower was a great success!!! Unfortunately I did have covid this week so my pictures weren't exactly where I would want them . For these genetics, it's crazy , they haven't been topped or LST'd and yet they are growing flat at the top ! *** I did have covid this week so my pictures weren't exactly up to par. So I'll do my.best to make it up with notes , - this week very little flower stretch that is definitely a plus for people who want medium sized bushy plants . Not saying that this one won't stretch but so far there has been very little stretching . - there are ALOT of nice shoots throughout the canopy, plenty of places to take clones *** this genetic clones very well so that is another thing to note ! So great clonability . The end of week one I have seen very little stretching , in my opinion these could all be considered S1 . It interesting, even with no topping or training these plants NATURALLY grow FLAT! so for all you Screeners out there this is a primal genetic for that !!! In to week two !!! Here We Go !!! -------------------------- Find these world class genetics at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/products/exotic-animal#:~:text=What%20is%20Exotic%20Seed's%20Exotic,be%20cultivated%20indoors%20and%20outdoors. Or https://www.seedsman.com/eu_en/exotic-animal-feminised-seeds Find all about the nutrients that fuel this grow on here:. https://diablonutrients.com/ Absolutely a life-changing nutrient company for me really brought my game to the next level.

May 11: wildfire smoke rolled in this morning for the first time this year. Last year was horrible but hopefully this year won’t be as bad. Today was stay inside the house sort of bad smoke but it’s supposed to blow over soon. Hope. Plant looks good and happy in the final container. May 12: took out a couple of small cedars and I have a new sunniest spot in the yard, or at least for the next 12 weeks or so. Today’s sunlight is like what it will be like in early August (6 weeks to solstice). May 16: cool and rainy today but some sun at the end. She’s still doing great, and definitely better than most of my previous starts. I think I had the soil too wet before, or maybe the apple thing actually works. Either way she’s off to a good start and we’re on schedule with the May long weekend coming up. May 17: cool and rainy all day. Left plant in the mini-greenhouse all day.

I poured a whole bucket of 1000ppm trough the coco yesterday as long she goes under 800ppm runoff from her normal feeding. Shes massive under these bars, thats a spiderfarmer SE5000 (480watt)

Die Reise ist zuende. Es war spannend sie wachsen zu sehen. Leider hatte ich irgendwann Probleme mit dem Dünger bei ihr und sie litt sehr darunter. Aber sie hat sich tapfer durchgebissen und hat mir am Ende deutlich mehr gebracht, als ich gehofft hatte. Green Gelato Auto von RQS gehört wie Cookies Gelato und Fat Banana Auto zu meinem ersten Tagebuch. Leider wird das Tagebuch nicht angezeigt, daher habe ich jede Pflanze jetzt nomma einzelnt hochgeladen, damit ihr auch sehen könnt, wie mein Start auf Growdiaries war. Das Tagebuch hatte damals vor 2 Jahren ganze 4 Likes abgestaubt... 🙄🤷🏻‍♂️😁

Starting to flower this week, Dropped my lights closer to canopy and started giving full strength nutes + big bud and bud candy from here out :)

For some reason, it's been difficult to upload any video on here.So I can only do the stationary pictures

Este post es el de cosecha, pero voy a hacer el Harvest cuando tenga procesadas las fotos de cogollos secos y haya hecho una buena cata. Estas dos mangos fueron preciosas de cultivar. Cogieron un tono azulado y algunos petalos se volvieron de un color rosa muy fuerte. No fue dificil de cultivar aunque la empezara en octubre, tuvo la visita de algunas orugas pero no causaron casi ningun daño. -Empecé el cultivo en octubre, lo que hizo que mis plantas no llegaran a la altura deseada, no tubieron todo el sol que necesitavan y se espigaron. Les hice un corte FIM a una planta y apical a la otra, lo cual hizo que las puntas desarrollaran una forma curiosa. This post is the harvest one, but I'm going to do the Harvest week when I have processed all the photos of dried buds and made a good tasting. -These mangos are amazingly gorgeous. They took a bluish tone and some petals turned a very strong pink color. It was not difficult to grow considering that I planted it a little late, I only had the visit of some caterpillars. There are some pics of one of them. -I started cultivation in October, which caused my plants not to reach the desired height, they did not have all the sun they needed and they sprouted. I made a FIM cut to one plant and apical to the other, which caused the tips to develop a curious shape. Thanks to you all for the support!

Включили центральное отопление, показатели температуры и влажности стабилизировались. Для профилактики засола промыл с FloraKleen. Выключил диоды синего. 13.11 Сделал дефолиацию, и наконец поднял досвет до нужного уровня (может быть нужно было закрепить еще чуть выше, но пока оставлю так) Появился первый "снег" на листьях, всё развивается хорошо, я доволен. 👉планирую добавить еще один досвет😎 - диоды deep red специально для цветения, на отдельной планке, оставайтесь на связи👈 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶

The tallest one of the bunch to date by a few inches. I topped and defoliated every plant. I'm trying to form them into canna-bushes. Hopefully I'm doing the correct training procedures to make them all grow that way both indoors and out.

Día 78:

Last week I fought some yellowing of the leaves. Did some small adjustments on PH to keep it in the 5.6 range. Seemed to stop it from progressing. For Week 3 Veg I topped the plants. I plan to flip the lights at the end of week 3 and move into flower. Day 15 I continued to have yellowing leaves even though I had everything looking right. (Added Pic). I decided to look into the PH to see if I was having issues with it. I have a meter in the water 100% of the time taking a reading every 1 sec. It all looked right. But I decided to Calibrate it in 4,7,10 solutions. Found out that my meter was off. So new to the check list is to calibrate the meter before each grow. I was thinking my PH was High, when in reality it was low. put in some PH up to get it back to 5.5 and over the last 16 hours things look pretty good. Leaves look darker. Day 17 Things are looking good. Leaves are getting darker and new growth coming in. Day 18 Turned room temp down to 73F from 76F. Fearing it is warming up my res tank too much. Day 19 Starting to get yellowing again. checked everything and can't find a good reason for it. Did notice some cloudiness in my res tank. Added 2 ML/Gal of peroxide. have Hydroguard on the way to help. I'll be adding more fans this weekend. I have light air movement currently. Also found a few spider mites and sprayed Greencleaner to all plants. Current environment settings: Room Temp 72.74 F Room Humidity 63.63% (After spraying, Trending down). Room CO2 589PPM Tank PH 5.70 Tank PPM (500 Scale) 953 Tank Temp 74.05 F Day 20 Recalibrated my EC probe just to be sure it was also accurate. wasn't off by much. Dialed back my flooding to every 5 hours to encourage Rooting. <-- Strong roots = strong Plants Sprayed for mites

Here's some video of day 11 of flower. You can't even tell I defoliated at the flip. Top left is London mint cake. It's the shortest plant and I'm hoping I don't need to reach it in the later stages of flower. Bottom left is rainbow cake and the big girl on the right is pineapple express. She's much more leggy considering I started them at the same time. Same nutrition amount as last week. Just letting them stretch out. No issues so far.

They've been having a bit of trouble with calcium deficiency due to me overwatering them and not giving them CalMag every feed but have learnt my lesson for next time and will be getting the bare minimum nutrients from a recommended supplier. Been feeding them half nutrients one feed and pHd water with CalMag the other, and that's taking a day break between watering. Think they've only got this week left now then I'll start flushing with water I think, the one in the corner may need another week or 2 but at least it'll have loads of space to finish up when they're out of there 🙂 Was gonna start flushing this week but they just look so poorly so gonna have 1 more week with nutes every day cause I think they're thirsty bitches which has slowed them down possibly, full nutes, no nutes doesn't seem to be doing me any favours so I'll start flush the 2 that I think are ready next week and the last one a week after 😊😓 Have ordered a microscope to check the trichomes, no idea what to look for but I'm sure I'll see something.. feeding them everyday again as it's been another hot week should've just stuck with a daily feed probably. Will upload some trichome pics soon hopefully 😊

Today I don't give a lot of nutrients, but I focus on the use of acid and alkali. And this is the day I clear the big leaves again. Hope your enjoy.🙏💚🥦

First day of vegetative state. I use 125 ml of spring water mixed with 0,2 ml of bio-grow( npk 3-3-3) and 0,1 Gr of rooting powder. She looks healty . This is the first day that i let her to direct aire, without protection. I am curious how She will handel the aireflow from the fan