Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Since the flush, the leaves with lot of yellow, keep turning yellow and have been removed, but the other leaves look under control. Buds keep growing and pistils are more and more orange/brown, Trichromes not yet milky (video) Harvest maybe in 2 or 3 weeks. 💧 Give water each 2/3 days. 1,5l Water 1,5l Water + Easy Plus + Sugar Royal PH @6 - Easy plus tabs 1 tabs/6l water 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 44 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light Zamnesia - Frosted Guava Auto🌲🌲 Discount code -20% with GROWITGD code 🔥🔥 https://www.zamnesia.com/7679-zamnesia-seeds-frosted-guava-automatic.html

420Fastbuds Cinderella Auto Week 2 What up grow fam weekly update on these two. This week has been fun seeing the first leafs getting bigger. I started adding some GH Calimagic to my feed. I'm feeding 500ml of PH'd well water and .25 tsp/gal of some calmag about every other day. Started also my preventive maintenance of sparying PureCrop1 every Monday as the plants seem to respond well and keeps the pest away. All in all Happy Growing

Bomb week!! All pictures/ video was takken on day 9 and i gotta say its looking wild. I Didnt expect them both to start growing so crazy. Lst really seemed to help some of these just explode with tops. I feel like compared to my first indoor run these are like a week ahead, as far flowering goes. Wich is also interesting because Double Ds can go for 9-10 weeks! Cant wait to see how these babies do there thang One problem actually i found a little bit of aphids nothing crazy but im going to continue using the growsafe insecticide/fungicide/pesticides.

In size they grow ;) attempting to keep mainlining and light defoliation. biggest plants starting to flower up. gonna feed her with bio pk, next watering sensing that the other plant is a little week behind. 24-05 sweet cheese got her first dose of biopk

So amazing strain

We are in to the 10th week of flower. I stopped ultimate pk as I ran out of it , also I can't find any info re 12wk flowering feed schedule. All looking good, some of the top leaves are a bit dry maybe that is because they are coming to the end of wk10 . Some leaf tips are starting to turn purple but that is probably down to temps, lowest temp during lights off has been 9c , not perfect but hey ho . I am going to flush towards the end of wk11 , I will flush for 10 days, as mills nutrients are a mix of non organic and organic ingredients it only requires 7 days of flush but I will flush for 10 just to make Sure . Buds smell incredibly sweet and are very frosty I had another look while lights were off which gives me a better idea of progress, I am going to start my 10 day flush from tomorrow and take these down at the start of wk12

Hello my fellow Growers👊 It was another Great week for the Kush Fromage 🙌 All the pictures were taken on Sunday, which was Day 42 of Flower. She is really starting to reek the whole area up. It is a very earthy kush like smell with fresh grapes on a grapevine mixed in, it's a very unique smell😊 She is supposed to be a very heavy resin producer and have a high THC and CBD content. Anywhere from 18-26% THC and ~3% CBD according to the breeder. I can tell you this it is one very very resinous plant😵 even the fan leaves and smaller leaves that have no trichomes on them have developed an oily resin on them. It's awesome so I can definitely say it is a heavy resin producer. If a sugar leaf touches another leaf you can see an oily resin where it touched it, my fingers get sticky just from the fan leaves👍The breeders estimated time of Flower is around 63 Days. So we got a few more weeks to go!! I hope the buds will fill in a good bit more but I am not counting on them getting huge due to this strain being more on the quality over quantity side of things. It's not a bad producer and I'm sure they can get some pretty huge flowers on em, but I have seen plants that can produce way more, but this strain makes up for it in its potency and resin production. Plus I personally like the Quality over quantity strains. Though at least nowadays its nice that we have a lot of strains that are a nice compromise and have great yield while also having great quality😎 Thank for stopping by and checking out the Grow👊👍 Happy Growing an plentiful Harvests to you all!!🙏

Hello m8 welcome to this journey with me in this diary will have very interesting strains hope u find something useful PersianGirl - [ ] 1st week Veg: germinated in substrate lighting very close so it jets medium high humidity after the 3rd day they started sprouting - [ ] 2nd week Veg: this week my ventilator broke down and as the temperature stayed very warm nothing developed much - [ ] 3rd week Veg:fortunately this week i had fixed the ventilation and the temperature has go down a bit allowing the little plants to develop and reinforce - [ ] 4th week:very good developments in this week I already started feeding a bit two times but i didn’t have to…once was enough - [ ] 5th week Veg:this week they were very strong green i only had to water them good and keep the ventilators going no stop .They have good hight already ,but as i have to strains together. I want to transplant them when the hight of the other one have stretched… I’m thinking to transplant next week if not the next one - [ ] 6th week Veg: this week it went great fortunatly i dont have pests that eat my buds i’ve givven a fed once the substrate is very rich already the plants streached very well i will transplant today so be ready m8 i cant wait to show you the progress - [ ] 1st week Fl:they started stretching and looking very healthy just transplanted - [ ] 2nd week Fl this week I’ve been away i had a friend taking care of them they stretching very well i hope that she starts putting energy into the flo - [ ] 3rd week Fl:they are streaching very well ..getting the light very well - [ ] 4th week Fl:there we aree guys the good stage is heree good high hope dosent effect de prod - [ ] 5th week Fl:pumping very good this week a lot of changes started already being fros - [ ] 6th week Fl: - [ ] 7th week Fl

Esta semana supere al tercer nodo los 4 brazos y recorte las hojas que tapaban los brotes de la luz. Además comencé el entrenamiento. Atento a comentarios.

These are very sticky and very smelly I’m probably going to do 1 or 2 more nutrient feedings until I flush for 7 days. Then I reckon I’ll let them druy leave them in dark for a couple days and then chop chop. Very suprised with these tbh and ready to nail the cure 4/13 start of week 7

It’s the first week of flower!! I’ve been having troubles with knowing where to foliate and direct the growth with these plants. As 2 seem to be growing faster than the other 2! Over all looking good I think.

Week 16 - Day 103 08/16: Harvested Aaliyah on 08/15, Day 102 from soil and Day of flowering. After one week of pure water for Aaliyah, some of the trichomes have turned amber. I decided to harvest about 3/4 of the plant. Some of the lower buds didn’t receive enough light during the grow, so I’m hoping they can grow a little more before I bring the whole plant down. I also removed some of the dead and very young growth that was coming up. I didn’t have another spot to hang the buds because of the smell, so I tied them over the other plants. Now that she is mostly harvested, the smell has increased. I now have Annie on the side so she is getting less direct light. She already took some bleaching on her main colas. Alexis still has about a week left. I’ll check her trichomes before the next watering to see if I should start flushing. 08/18: Aaliyah’s harvested buds were getting close to being dry, so I decided to start cleaning up some of the sugar leaves. The smaller, less developed buds got chopped up and set aside for some dry ice hash. Since she was on the left side of the tent, a lot of her colas did not receive enough direct light. I hung up a few of the nicer looking ones that I’m keeping as flower to finish drying. [General notes: I still don’t have a scale to take note of the exact wet weight, but I’ll make sure to have one for the dry weight. And since all three plants are of the same strain, I’m going to wait till the last one is chopped up before posting the full harvesting results.]

Day 49 of flower. The cookies is doing well, the smell is very fruity, lights now are set 11 on 13 off. Next week maybe i will start the flush.

Ripennig week Day 63 600 par Uv+IR+FR 16/8 Single Hydroponic 120*120*200 Light W= 240

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 01/11/2019 - Started using BioBizz Alg-a-Mic on spray, using it once per day at lights off, 1 or 2 puffs to create a light mist, only on non feed days, I mixed 0.1ml on 100ml water 6.4 PH. 03/11/2019 - Gave her 250ml plain water with 6.4PH 05/11/2019 - Gave her 0,15ml of each BioBizz Grow, Max and Bloom on 300ml water 6 PH didn't manage to get it higher to 6.3 at least. 06/11/2019 - She started to show some pistols, probably entering pre-flower. 07/11/2019 - Soil was to dry due to 2930c temps gave her 0,500ml of 6.5PH water with 0,25ml Grow, 0,25ml Max, and 0,45ml Bloom BioBizz.

This plant was germinated along side three other strains , it stayed short and compact ,it was very leafy and compact . If I was to grow it again I would spread and thin out the canopy and defoliate more heavily . This strain was in a10 litre pot and produced 90g of dried trimmed bud . It was a low producer but the flower is really nice , a very enjoyable evening flower through a volcano vaporizer.

So here we are end of week 9 and is almost the end for Betty . I think 4-5 days and she I'll be ready for the chop . Has been 10 days flush so far and just been feeding her pH water . I will get some better pics up when chopping her down got real bad lighting in my flat and only take out at night .😀

Still going through flowering. She has stayed short and stocky throughout since week 3/4 actually. About that time I remember watering her with nutrients that must have been too acidic. I'm pretty sure I omitted add ph up. 😭 The damage was done, growth all but stopped. As she is an auto flower there is no time to 'save' her and grow a big plant, so we will go to the end with what we've got.