Last few days - Day 65 - Fat Monkey Auto from @anesiaseeds Nutrients: @atami_deutschland / @atami.international / @stefan_atami / @daniel_atami Soil: @promixgrowers_eur / @promixgrowers_global / @promixgrowers_unfiltered / @promixmitch LED: @powerlux_spain Tent: @secretjardin_ Thank you to everyone who follows and supports my work 🙏🏻💚 This means a lot to me and you should know you are a part of it and only with you all this is possible, you are the best community 😎 Growers love, love for everyone

Just stripped these down 5 days ago and it looks like a forest already.

Still maintaining, no defoliation up to this point. There are still some deformed fingers on leaves from the stress but they are doing well!

Plants took a few days to get stripped down. Missed the second week of flowering and stretching but oh well there is always next time. Very excited to see this canopy full of uniform buds its going to be a sight to behold haha.

Woche 4 bricht an und es läuft hervorragend! Die Orange Sherbet bekommt diese Woche frischen Boden: eine Mischung aus Bio-bizz All-Mix und Greenhouse-Feeding, perfekt für die letzten Vegetationswochen und blüte. Zudem hat sich die Orange Sherbet sehr gut mit dem Backhefe-Buttermilch-Melasse-Experiment entwickelt, was zu einem starken CO2-Anstieg auf bis zu 1500 ppm geführt hat. 💨 Ich bin gespannt, wie sie sich in der neuen Umgebung entwickeln wird. Auf der anderen Seite explodieren die Frozen Black Cherries förmlich in der Hydroponik! 🌱 Die Entwicklung ist beeindruckend, und ich könnte nicht zufriedener sein mit ihrem Fortschritt. Die Blütephase rückt näher, und ich bin gespannt, wie sich alles weiterentwickelt! Ich halte euch auf dem Laufenden! 🚀 Week 4 is here, and things are going great! The Orange Sherbet is getting new soil this week—a blend of Bio-Beth All-Mix and Greenhouse-Feeding, setting her up perfectly for the final weeks of vegetation and . Additionally, the Orange Sherbet has responded well to the back yeast-buttermilk-molasses experiment, resulting in a significant CO2 increase of up to 1500 ppm. 💨 I'm excited to see how she adapts to her new environment. Meanwhile, the Frozen Black Cherries are absolutely thriving in hydro! 🌱 Their growth has been phenomenal, and I couldn't be more impressed with their progress. The flowering phase is getting closer, and I can't wait to see how everything unfolds! I'll keep you updated! 🚀

Day 72 since seed touched soil. All is okeish in garden. Twins are showing signs of light burn and toxicity. I always get toxicity during first few waterings with slow release nutes. One twin is bigger and way frostier than any other plant in garden. Mars TSL2000 is now on very healthy distance. Works fine. Temps are in good range. Humidity spikes to 70 on watering day, but is in 60-65 during others. Happy Growing !!!

Eccoci qui... Tutto va per il meglio, questa settimana non ho applicato stress alle piccole, ma ho guardato l'evoluzione che hanno avuto dando i nutrienti. Ora hanno un odore davvero intenso ed uno strato di resina pauroso, vediamo come si riprendono dalla defogliazione che ho fatto settimana scorsa. Seguiranno aggiornamenti, grazie a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️

21 days of flower 🌸🌼 Big bushy pheno

First I need to thank Mrs_Larimar for helping me through this process!! Thank you!!!😅 The good girl was rinsed with 20 liters of tap water and surrounded with approx. 1.5 - 2 liters of fresh soil in a larger pot. After strong concerns about whether it will be something with the good, one day later I have already enjoyed 6cm of height gain and much stronger fragrances. Now, on the third day after the action, she looks more fresh again and her scent....... * Awwwww * No nutrients or other aids have been added. Only when the weight is right, it will be poured again. Yesterday one day after rinsing I removed the 2 lowest fan leaves as it seemed to me from stress of the plant as I could do that. It does not seem to bother her. Wish me good luck! xD

Been too busy to update the last few weeks, but they’re surviving longer then I expected. When I received my new light I did not take in consideration of the heat output and within the first night of use the tent reached a scorching 88 degrees

One auto-ultimate os dried and curing, well for my first indoor and second plantation all time I AM truly happy. 105grs dried in first auto ultimate. Thanks for all the gelo guys was crucial.

Works?

Good day to all my friends and visitors here on GD. After this week end, we will cut the first Tropicanna XL plant:D Middle this week we changed the reservoir water for a fresh solution. This plant will not get a flush before harvest, it's the first time i'm not flushing a plant for the cut but you know only two of the four girls are ready to chop and it's not possible in my RDWC to seperate feed them. So yes it's kind of an experiment for me. Something's not right with my fresh solution or the plants get root rot or something but the girls starting to show K deficiency...good that the plants are on the finish line :) The SE7000 runs at 540 Watt and about 33cm from the canopy and is doing an astounding job. For anyone who is interested in obtaining this efficient and affordable light fixture here's the link: https://spider-farmer.com/products/spider-farmer-upgraded-se7000-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/ A shout out to Sweter Seeds for the gift of genetics, this cultivar really rocks 💪☘️💚 https://sweetseeds.es/en I also want to thank Jungle Indabox nutrients for supplying me with their excellent nutrients line: https://www.jungleindabox.cz/en or https://numazon.cz/homepage/ That's it friends, I hope to see y'all next week, bless.

Welcome! Week 7 flower! I'm dying in anticipation. Part of me just wants to stare at it forever, because I'm pretty sure the color will get darker when its dried Pistols are turning orange top, so getting closer. I took a few videos this time. One shows the Mars Hydro lights, and my tents I'm using. The other is the best I could do to capture the beauty of this plant. I wish I had a tent full of only her. I cut way back on nutes, I only plan to feed one more time and will be checking the trichome color next week. Overall I'm super happy 😄 If you have some colorful grows going let me know and I will check it out Thanks for checking out my med grow, see you on week 8. Follow and subscribe if you like my content and want more Peace

Week one of flower 325 ppm 6.0 pH 65 F water temp. 71 F tent temp. 41 % RH Things are looking good. The girls are looking nice and healthy. The small one isn’t gonna catch up though lol. Oh well we will see what happens now.

Day 35 - All still growing very strong, both plants that aren’t being mainlined are very short & bushy but have a lot of bud sights! This strain has taken very well to mainlining as well, the double mainline is up to 8 tops now and doing great! Thank you to everyone for following & make sure to check back for daily updates! Happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱

Day 29. My friend is lazy and I have itchy fingers. Needed to do photos before, but generally he doesn't tuck leaves and expose branches, some are very underdeveloped, some are curly from being under leaf, not the best run .... Super healthy, about overstretched, I told him to increase light height every day - he does like me, only forced by plants almost brushing lights ... So internode current spacing - terrible. Girl in front is Wedding Cake. Gelato a bit taller. Still only water with small bacterial weekly top dressing. Happy Growing !!!

Plants took a tumble while I was at work and came home to everything laying on the ground like a robbery. I also learned that my plants wasn't burning but in fact when the tree hit the deck the 33C heat and the roof torched the leaves. The vertical growth is slowing as it only grew 4" in the week so far, next year I'll use 20 gallons for more growth. Just solid knowledge for next year as I wanted all 3 tree to hit around 6ft after the stretch and all the training. This is the only plant that hasn't lost any branches so I'm pushing desperately for 1.5lbs.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Cookie begint van start te gaan nadat ze waarschijnlijk moest wennen aan de meteen grote textielpot, bladgroei gaat nu wat sneller en de ph waarde staat mooi op 5.8, waardoor alle voeding goed kan worden opgenomen. Komaan, groeien meisje!🌱 Update 11 mei : Ze is eraan begonnen, ik zie ze steeds beter groeien nu alles in orde is na de moeilijke start💚 Ik hoop dat de bloei nog wat op zich laat wachten, dat ze toch met een redelijke grootte kan gaan bloeien👊