The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Commencing Week 8: day 50 on January 19th Update is late my sincerest apologies. I will make it up by giving a very thorough smoke report when all is done. Otherwise all is going very well 😁😁👏👏 On day 50 I took the head off of bloody skunk. I checked trichome colors under USB microscope. At least 90% fully milky-white with maybe 5 or 6% Amber and the remainder clear. 😁 On day 55 I gave all of the plants a fan leaf trim including the remaining bottom half of bloody skunk. as I sit here and think about it I believe this will help with ensuring the entire plant ripens and matures at the same time - versus the tops being ready before the bottoms. I still plan on letting the bottoms of all these plants go way beyond the recommended time to see if I can initiate the process of rodelization. Either way I am glad to report that Bloody skunks pollenization looks like it is resulting in some seeds. (See photo). In hindsight my only concern is that because the plant finished a bit earlier than I expected the seeds may not make it to full maturity but I believe it should be okay we'll just have to wait and find out. That being said besides the bloody skunk being done just a few days early everything else seems to be right on time as described in plant profiles on company websites.👍 That's all for now thank you for your patience and attention and support and as usual feel free to leave any suggestions comments or questions and I'll do my best to get back sooner rather than later 😁
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Feb. 17 Ph 7.5 Moist - plucked all the bad leaves that were ready - Removed all the dead leaves - 3 gal of water ph of 6.4 + 15 ml big bloom + 20 ml tiger bloom + 9ml apple cider vinegar + 30ml blackstrap molasses unsulphured - Light burn seems to be the #1 problem, then ph fluctuations and nutrient burn - I think i held the measuring cup a little awkward most feedings instead of having it on a level surface and I probably overfed by 5ml each time - Most of the bottom leaves are green but have burnt tips, they are usually pretty attached - the middle section has lots of dead leaves but they are tiny little ones that have burnt and fallen off - the top leaves are all yellow on plant 1, with burnt tips, clawing up, very red stems, and are fairly easy to pluck off, not much effort on most - the most green areas are semi-shaded and off on the edges of the tent, and all the shaded areas remained green - Therefore, I would say my #1 problem was light burn, which made the ph fluctuations worse, nutrient deficiencies worse, and i over compensated and did not measure precisely causing nutrient burn - there is also some wind burn on the bottom areas - all in all the buds are developing nicely and bulking up decent amounts on plant 1, especially with all the topping - good trichomes coming out - plant 2 has different light burn but the leaves are praying up, and pointing up much more, more rusting also but they are not easy at all to pull off - the buds on plant 2 are also not growing nearly as well but the trichomes seem nicer and it seems to have more - the buds hopefully are more dense despite being small, they do look compact though - roughly 100 bud sites visible from the top of the canopy feb. 18 - ph. 7.2 - the clawing up and yellowing and burning of the tips has continued, likely past problems continuing to persist - these problems really only exist on the top set of leaves, which always brings me back to light burn - plucked another 10-15 clawed and burnt leaves from plant 1 - the buds got bigger, and the trichomes continue to pack on - seeing more promising growth/ recovery from plant 2 - trichomes appear to be quite clear, no signs of amber - The crop king seeds guide suggests 8 weeks of flowering time, we are a couple days into week 7 right now but the pistils are still about 60% white and somewhat straight, and the trichomes are quite clear. This would lead me to believe about 2 full weeks is left and likely closer to 2.5 weeks. - Trying to plan out my flush, leaving me a full 7-10 days to have the plants finish their nutrients, that flush would best occur at the mid point next week - I am expecting the trichomes to be cloudy by mid week 8, around feb. 25, I would flush them, and look to harvest 7-10 days later, around mar. 4-8 feb. 19 - ph 6.8 - moist - definitely bulked up more, plant 2 is back and growing strong, damage on top canopy continues to burn and curl, yellowing a growing splotchy brown spots, but I am very confident that this is past damage from light burn which has since been fixed by dropping the watts down by 140 - more pistils are going orange feb. 20 - buds fatting up really nice Feb. 21 - Daytime temps reduced to low 70s feb.22 - ph. 7.5 - moist - will water tomorrow - trichomes not yet fully cloudy - mostly orange pistils - mostly curled inward pistils, lower down popcorn still white and straight - excellent trichomes on plant 2 - will feed tomorrow then I expect the next thing will be to flush so this will likely be the last feed - daytime temps now 70-77 - nightime 65 +/-1F feb. 23 - plants look very thirsty, leave shriveling from before but hanging down and not perky at all - Dirt is very dry, moisture meter reads moist 5/10 - Ph: 7.6 - The plant is very hungry - Some noticeable stretching or just more visible now - Buds look to continue getting fatter and look really nice - 4 gal of water ph = + 22ml of big bloom + 30ml of tiger bloom + 30ml of blackstrap molasses + 9ml of apple cider vinegar - plucked more super dead leaves - Expected dates: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected cloudy trichomes: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected flush date: - feb. 25 - expected harvest date - mar. 4-8 Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for veg - 4x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for flower (190 watts - 50-40-50-50 back left, back right, front left, front right) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom - Wholesome - Blackstrap organic unsulphured molasses Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Mini fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Dehumidifier: - Frigidaire 30-Pint 3-Speed Dehumidifier Timers: - 2x VIVOSUN dual Digital Timer - 2x Kuman Digital Timer
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@Randyb4
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Day 70 First day of Week 10, 12 days of flower - Plants look like they are loving life in the tent. White hairs coming up everywhere. Smell is starting to increase. Soil is still moist so no water today. Day 71, day 13 of flower- Buds are forming nicely, soil is pretty dry so I'll water tonight or tomorrow morning. The closest top to the light is about 18" the others are about. 24"from the light. Currently at using the Growers Choice ROI-720 at 60% using 432w from the wall. Watered with 3 liters of plain water per plant. Day 72, 14 days of flower - just measured them today. Day 73, 15 days of flower- I turned the light up to 70%. Soil is pretty dry today. Day 74, 16 days of flower- watered with 3 liters per plant with 2.3ml/g of micro, 2.3ml/g of grow, and 3.3ml/g of bloom with 1 tsp/g of molasses. PH 6.4 @ 71°F. Plant B has some lower leaves turning yellow. Day 75, day 17 of flower- trimmed alotnof yellow leaves off of plants B and D, plant A is starting to yellow at the tips of the new growth. White hairs are growing fast. Day 76, day 18 of flower- you can start to see the tricomes on the sugar leaves now buds are starting to form. Starting to claw at the ends again. Mabey from too much water. Not sure why they are yellowing, not sure if it's over water or under water or over feed or under fed.
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This is week 4 we are about to flip them to flower. 8 strains being test grown new strains.
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@Krissci
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Little bit of last this week to expose the nodes and buds.
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Papayton feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de floración puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. De momento van creciendo a buen ritmo y tienen un buen color, estaban muy bien enraizadas al realizarle el trasplante se notaba la abundancia radicular. COMENTAR: que una de las 3 salió macho. Agradecer a Agrobeta por el kit Gold series que mandaron, siempre os portáis, unos maestros. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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Moved her to her final bucket, sat for a few days - then topped her down to the 3rd node, defoliating the 1st nodes completely It recovered and is now getting a set of nutes 24hr light cycle 7ph water
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Exactly a week ago these five Sour Diesels were planted. The sixth plant you see in the pictures is a CousKush Auto that is being nursed for 2 weeks to then be taken care of by family. They germinated quickly, after less than 72 hours most cotyledons were fully open and the roots grew through the root cubes. At this point they were transplanted into 0.12L seedling bags filled with pre-buffered coco and perlite (saturated with PH'd RO water). They will stay in those to develop a good root structure for around a week before moving to 1L pots. They reacted decently to the transplant although the cotyledons curled down on some of the seedlings. I attribute that to the coco being too moist when they were transplanted. I waited to give them more water until day 5 to dry the coco out a bit. Day 5 is when I first watered them, using a 0.3 EC nutrient solution. They all get 8-10 ml every 24 hours now and seem to be doing great.
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@Lazuli
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Final week and what a frost theres on those buds
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I forgot to do a video every week, I hope I'm not kicked out of the contest, because this plant is pretty sweet
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Week 6 - chugging along. Trained two (lst+defo). Third plant underwent heavy defoliation only.
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😈 Only On It'z 3 Day Of It'z 12 Week Binge! I Can Alwayz See Her Name Disintegrating From Their Lipz! "3rd Day" 😈-[V][V]-😈 Day 4 And Already Show'n Root! Using Clonex Water Solution In RO Water Ph'd Down To 6.5 And 2 T8 6500k Fluorescent 2' Tubez! 🌱 Day 5! She'z Reach'n For The Sky With Her Root Get'n Longer! After Her 2nd Node And Fan Leaf Im'a Put Her On The Juice! (Emerald Harvest'z) Cali Pro Gro A-B, Emerald Goddess, Root Wizzard And Study Stalk Into RO Water Ph'd To 6.8! After Her 6th Node And Fan Leaf! Move'n Her Into Her Lucious Condo! To Start Her Low Strezz Workout'z, Manicure'n And Scrog'n! Im'a Start Add'n (Emerald Harvest'z) Honey Chome And King Kola To Her Mix! Until She Hit'z Puberty! Once She Get'z A Little Fuzz On Her Peach! I'll Switch Out The Cali Pro Gro A-B With Cali Pro Gro Bloom A-B And (Emerald Harvest'z) Cal-Mag Keep'n Her Drink At A Chilly 59° And Her Air At 68° All While Get'n Her Hook'd Like A Crackhead On Co2! After That, 1-2 Weekz B4 She'z Ready To Pop! Im'a Starve Her Little Azz Cauze It'z Flush Time! (Botanicare'z) Clearex And RO Water Only! Don't Want Terrible Tasting Headaches! 🌱 After The 1'st Week I'll Only Be Updating Once A Week Unless Something Spectacular Happenz With The PC Grow. I Got To Much To Do With The New Big Auto Grow! Man I Love Fastbudz! Thiz Run Will Be FB'z GG Auto Fem And FB'z Six Shooter Auto Fem Som It Shoulb Be Exiciting! But Back To The Micro PC Grow! I Just Posted This Morning Day 5 And Damn! Big Difference From Thiz Morning! It'z The End Of Day 5 And The Rootz Are Fill'n The Grodan Like It'z Last'z Year'z Shoe! It'z Get'n Straight Shwifty! 😈🌱Day 6! Hey! Your A Crazy Bitch! But You Fuck So Good I'm On Top Of It! When I Dream I'm Doing You All Night! Scratcez All Down My Back I Keep It Right On! Crazy Bitch, Crazy Bitch, Crazy Bitch! "Crazy Bitch" Buckcherry🌱😈
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@Ninjabuds
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Growace.com aircube only discount code NINJABUDS ELUFAH / Amazon discount NINJABUDS The plants are very close to being large enough to start useing the watering system to water them Black sugar 2.0 is a beast from the start I think it’s gonna be a monster plant
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@TJHeadley
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This week was a little late due to the holiday. This is the week RSQ Wedding Cake flipped to flower. I accidentally super cropped her when trying to bend a branch over. After that she started drinking a whole lot more (hence the underwatered pictures)
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Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis jour84 arrosage avec 25 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Jour87 arrosage avec 30 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Jour88 pratique de la techniques du tronc fendu (videos explicatives) et arrosage avec 20 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 COMMENT FENDRE LES TIGES DE VOTRE PLANT DE CANNABIS Pour fendre les tiges de votre plant de cannabis, il vous faudra : Une lame propre et aiguisée (une lame de cutter fonctionne bien) Un mètre ruban Une ficelle ou un adhésif pour marquer les coupures que vous ferez le long de la tige Un crayon, une baguette ou une brochette pour séparer la tige une fois fendue 1. Tout d'abord, commencez par mesurer la partie de la tige que vous allez fendre. Il faut faire une incision d'environ 10–20 cm juste sous la branche la plus basse de votre plant. Utilisez un ruban adhésif ou de la ficelle pour marquer le début et la fin de l'incision. 2. Ensuite, prenez votre lame et faites une incision en travers de la tige, en commençant par le haut. Attention à faire une coupe propre, jusqu'au centre de la tige. 3. Utilisez votre lame pour tailler en descendant vers le bas, jusqu'à la marque inférieure de la mesure que vous avez prise auparavant. Essayez de tailler aussi droit que possible. Une fois que vous avez atteint votre marque du bas, laissez la lame au centre de la tige, puis utilisez un crayon/baguette/brochette pour ouvrir la partie coupée, puis sortez votre lame. QUEL EST LE MEILLEUR MOMENT POUR FENDRE LES TIGES ? Il existe de nombreuses théories sur le meilleur moment pour passer votre tige au couteau, mais la plupart des cultivateurs suggèrent de le faire à la dernière semaine de floraison. Même si certains cultivateurs recommandent de le faire dans les 3 derniers jours avant la récolte, nous recommandons de le faire un peu plus tôt (7–10 jours avant la récolte). QUELS SONT LES RISQUES À FENDRE LES TIGES ? Fendre les tiges est une technique à stress élevé très agressive que nous ne recommandons qu'aux cultivateurs expérimentés. Nous ne recommandons également pas de fendre les tiges sur les variétés à autofloraison, car cela peut être bien trop intense pour elles. FENDRE LES TIGES, ÇA MARCHE VRAIMENT ? Il existe un solide ensemble de cultivateurs expérimentés qui déclarent que le fait de fendre les tiges peut produire de bons résultats. Malheureusement, peu de données qualitatives le prouvent. Cependant, il semble que la fente des tiges soit originaire des Pays-Bas, où elle est pratiquée par des cultivateurs néerlandais experts depuis les années 1970.
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@CheeRz
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Flower week 3 and Lady Runtz still happy af. From now on it'll be fun to watch 💚. I gotta admit that Plagron is so much better than Biobizz. I'll definitely stay with Plagron 💪🏼