Day 2 - no training needed..plants need ntime to recover

tons of issues in veg but we made it. Just waiting the final few days. gonna go to day 60 and chop.

i accidently bought some unbuffered coco and mixed it with my ussual earth, had major calmag problems in mid-flower but i´m still pleased with the results...also had a little trouble with mold at the end due to bad weather and high humidity in the final weeks of the grow, had to remove a few buds and harvest early @ day 55 of flower....but there's still alot of great looking buds left for me to enjoy and all look mostly done... Just harvested and hung them upside down, currently drying them at constant 19.5-20.5°C and 50-60% RH..will update as soon as they are dry

Es ist soweit! Am Freitag habe ich die fünf Easy Buds nach knapp 11 1/2 Wochen abgeschnitten und geerntet. Leider musste ich feststellen, dass eine Pflanze ziemlich stark befallen war. Ich vermute eine Milbenart oder möglicherweise Fliegeneier. Unterhalb der Blätter waren etliche dunkelgelbe und dunkelbraune Eier, die man auf den ersten Blick kaum erkennen konnte. Bei genauerem Hinsehen sieht man jedoch, dass sich der Befall auf die ganze Pflanze ausgeweitet hatte. Glücklicherweise blieben die vier anderen Pflanzen verschont. Aus diesem Grund trockne ich die Pflanzen auch getrennt voneinander. Die befallene Pflanze wollte ich nicht direkt wegwerfen, sondern erstmal trocknen lassen. Im Nachhinein werde ich schauen, wie ich mögliche Schadensbegrenzung betreiben kann. Die vier gesunden Pflanzen werden in einem geschlossenen Zelt in einem Trocknungsbeutel getrocknet. Die befallene Pflanze habe ich in dem Folienzelt aufgehängt und mit einer Plane abgedeckt. Nach wenigen Tagen der Trocknung sieht soweit eigentlich alles gut aus. Die Eier scheinen nicht mehr zu schlüpfen, sondern fallen von der Blüte ab oder verschrumpeln zu Kompost. Ich hoffe, dass es dabei bleibt. Der Geruch hat sich nach dem Abschneiden deutlich verändert. Schon nach der kurzen Trocknungszeit kann ich einen intensiveren Geruch feststellen, der sich noch nicht so richtig beschreiben lässt. Die Blüten waren stark mit den sogenannten "Sugar Leaves" verwachsen, weshalb ich sie grob getrimmt habe, um sie zum Trocknen aufzuhängen. Nachdem die Blüten vollständig getrocknet sind, werde ich die Buds noch einmal einzeln trimmen und durch meine Trimm-Maschine von Vevor jagen. Der Ernteprozess hat zu zweit circa eine Stunde gedauert. Die Pflanzen waren zum Zeitpunkt der Ernte noch sehr gesund und kräftig. Die Verwurzelung war trotz des geschlossenen Topfes sehr gut. Die schönste Bud hat definitiv die zentrale Pflanze, Greta, ergeben. Nass hätte ich den Bud auf mindestens 12 g geschätzt. Ein Gesamtgewicht des nassen Pflanzenmaterials habe ich nicht ermittelt. Sobald alles trocken und fertig beschnitten ist, werde ich das Tagebuch um den trockenen Betrag ergänzen. Stand jetzt würde ich schätzen, dass der Ertrag aller Pflanzen bei circa 40-50 g liegt, was mich für meinen ersten Grow ziemlich zufrieden stellt, besonders in Anbetracht dieser wirklich sehr simplen Strain. Mehr Infos und Fotos folgen in Kürze, wenn das Curing beginnt. Bis bald! :)

Despite the fact that this is an auto flowering plant, they are a very worthy example that show that even autos can be better than photoperiodic flowers. I am growing this strain for the third time, it always pleases me with the amount of taste and, most importantly, the way it is smoked, very good THC. Thank u @Sweetseeds 🦅

Sindsygt godt ramt af mig ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ 0.1 minus grader i nat. I morges 6.8 grader. kl 7dansk tid. Og kl Ca 13. 39.8 grader. Lige nu kl 1645 dansk tid. 23.4. 😉

WEEK 5 SETUP - ROOT ZONES Optimizing cannabis performance requires balancing a strict temperature gradient between a cool root zone (68°F–72°F) to maximize dissolved oxygen and active nutrient transport, and a warm canopy (77°F–95°F) to accelerate photosynthetic enzyme activity and electron transport rates. There is a critical anatomical temperature gradient required for optimal cannabis metabolism: The Root Zone (68°F–72°F): Must be kept cool to maximize dissolved oxygen, preventing root rot (Pythium) and ensuring active transport ATP powers root elongation. The Metabolic Sweet Spot (77°F–95°F): The primary Electron Transport Chain (ETC) enzymes and ATP synthase complexes in the foliage require these warmer temperatures to maximize molecular collisions, accelerating respiration and carbon fixation. The Destruction Threshold (104°F): Enzymes and lipid membranes denature, causing structural metabolic collapse. Active transpiration constantly pulls dissolved O2 down through the top of the substrate like a piston. At night, the top-down pump completely stops. When transpiration shuts down after dark, the root zone can quickly become stagnant and oxygen-depleted because the mechanical "pump" is off, while the roots still need to breathe. Having a hole in the middle of the 100 gallon, in which all the air intake in an indoor grow tent comes up through the middle of the pot rather than open side panels, and having tent exhaust connected to RH allows cellular respiration to enact the exhaust, which creates a negative pressure differential that will act as a pump at night similar to daytime, but with a different mechanism. By routing the intake exclusively through a central hole and linking the exhaust to a Relative Humidity (RH) controller, effectively replacing the daytime transpiration-driven pull with a nighttime vapor-driven physical pull. Because the side intake vents are sealed, the tent is forced to draw its replacement air directly up through the center of your massive pot. This actively pulls stagnant, CO2-heavy air out of the root zone and replaces it with fresh, oxygenated room air. UVC 264nm duct sealed with HEPA filters to prevent contamination of pathogens. Constant airflow of 0.2m/s underside of the elevated pot to prevent potential runoff stagnation. Polystyrene insulation to prevent core desiccation, HVAC climate-matched intake, inline UVC/HEPA filtration, and constant underside air velocity are successfully engineered around every major failure point. Because cellular respiration spikes RH in waves, ensure your exhaust controller has a tight deadband (e.g., +/- 2-4% RH). This prevents the fan from "hunting" (short-cycling on and off too rapidly), which would cause erratic pressure shifts in the root zone. Using large-sized Hydroton (expanded clay) pebbles to fill a 12-to-14-inch diameter middle cavity in the pot solves the air channeling problem entirely. By replacing a dense substrate core with a highly porous, structural aggregate, it creates a dedicated internal air plenum. This ensures that the negative pressure differential acts uniformly across the entire vertical column of the root zone. Often referred to as a sub-surface aeration plenum or negative-pressure root system. By using negative pressure to pull or push conditioned air through a Hydroton (expanded clay pebble) plenum, this setup optimizes the root zone microclimate while preventing the typical gas stratification found in traditional containers. The 12-to-14-inch Hydroton layer acts as a high-porosity distribution vault. Because Hydroton has massive interstitial spacing, air can move through it with minimal resistance before diffusing into the denser substrate above. Instead of air channeling up a single path, the system forces the conditioned air to spread outward and upward evenly across the entire radius of the root mass. Roots actively consume Oxygen and respire Carbon Dioxide (CO₂). In standard pots, heavy CO₂ and excess Nitrogen can settle at the bottom, creating an anaerobic "dead zone." This negative pressure actively pulls those heavy gases out, replacing them with oxygen-rich, HVAC-conditioned air. Roots that penetrate the polystyrene/mesh barrier into the Hydroton core will experience incredible growth due to the hyper-oxygenated environment. However, because of the high nighttime airflow, the surfaces of the Hydroton will dry rapidly after irrigation. This will create a localized, self-regulating air-pruning zone, forcing the plant to explode with dense, lateral feeder-root branching just outside the core. Turns one's massive pot into a bi-directional, lung-like matrix. Equipped to destroy all limits set before it with nearly zero points of failure. With these safeguards implemented, the root zone environment achieves an unprecedented level of equilibrium. The plant drives the system. High transpiration creates a powerful top-down pull, dragging oxygenated moisture through the upper profile. The HVAC and HEPA/UVC intake runs passively or under low static pressure to maintain ideal ambient baselines. Transpiration ceases(Photosynthesis), and metabolic cellular respiration triggers a spike in relative humidity. The RH controller instantly fires the exhaust fan. The negative pressure vacuum instantly engages the clean, conditioned cohesive air column. Fresh air sweeps through the sealed duct on the underside of the buffer zone(pot), enters the 12-to-14-inch Hydroton plenum, and diffuses radially outward through the HVAC-controlled substrate. Stagnant CO₂ and nitrogen are actively evacuated. This setup prevents root rot, boosts oxygen levels at the root zone, and accelerates plant growth by ensuring the root system always breathes fresh air. Polystyrene keeps the core from drying out prematurely, the physical barrier keeps the media from migrating into the plenum, and the climate-controlled intake ensures the root zone never drops below its metabolic sweet spot. In standard growing systems, a root zone of this massive scale always runs into a diminishing return curve: the larger the pot, the easier it is to create cold, stagnant, anaerobic dead zones in the deep interior. This design completely smashes that ceiling. By turning the absolute center of the mass into the cleanest, highest-flowing, most oxygen-rich zone in the entire garden, it allows the root system to expand exponentially without ever hitting a wall. One is giving the plant the ultimate foundation to maximize its genetic potential, pushing growth rates, nutrient uptake, and overall vitality to their absolute limits. Also allows intake while catching all CO2 generation in the bottom half of the tent, kicking it up into the canopy every morning, even all around with 360 distribution, zero dead spots. Sub-surface aeration and magneto-electroculture matrix: a highly sophisticated, closed-loop engineering framework that perfectly bridges plant physiology with fluid dynamics and electromagnetic physics. By turning a traditional container into a bi-directional pneumatic lung, the design successfully bypasses the biological stagnation limits of massive root zones while leveraging micro-Lorentz forces to enhance nutrient mobility. Integrating a massive copper rod with an iron core (an electromagnet core) directly down the central axis of the Hydroton plenum—and driving a magnetoelectric field at the base using a neodymium magnet—shifts setup from a basic galvanic circuit to a specialized magneto-electroculture matrix. Running the earth battery's DC current through a highly conductive copper casing insulated around a ferromagnetic iron core transforms the central air column into an inductive broadcast tower for the rhizosphere. Just big enough to fill the massive root zones but not enough to leave the 4x4 tent. The physics and structural safety of this addition alter the system's dynamics in a couple of ways. Copper is an excellent electrical conductor but is non-magnetic. By wrapping the high-permeability iron core inside that copper column, you focus and amplify any magnetic flux lines generated by the circulating micro-currents. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ 38 mm OD x 19 mm ID x 6 mm N52. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ ⚠️Keep it well away from pacemakers, credit cards, mechanical watches, and sensitive magnetic sensors.⚠️ There is a permanent neodymium magnet at the base of this core, inducing an electrical current; this creates a localized electromagnetic actuator. Because it sits at the bottom of the plenum (where HEPA/UVC filtered intake air enters), the air moving up the column passes through a dense, structured magnetic gradient. As HVAC-conditioned water droplets and dissolved nutrient ions flow outward from the Hydroton plenum into the biochar, they cut perpendicularly through this magnetic field. This exerts a micro-Lorentz force on the free ions, altering their kinetic trajectories and potentially boosting ion mobility through the substrate's high-impedance boundaries. The central rod is sealed in a non-conductive jacket below the soil to allow the magnetic field to pass through while physically isolating the raw metal from moisture. Iron cores radically increase magnetic field strength, but they also introduce electrical resistance. If the current from the earth battery hits a bottleneck in the central rod, that energy transforms into heat. Given the root zone has a strict oxygen threshold above 75°F, use a digital multimeter to verify the central rod is not acting as a heating element. Copper is highly toxic to plant roots in elevated atomic concentrations. Because the central plenum experiences a massive, nightly rush of high-humidity air driven by the pneumatic exhaust lung, an unsealed copper rod will oxidize rapidly. This creates copper carbonate or copper sulfate runoff that will toxicify the hydroton pruning zone. Luckily, we don't top water in that zone. Roots exhibit magnetotropism (growth responses to magnetic alignment). A constant, hyper-intense magnetic field can distort root elongation or cause root tips to prematurely deviate from their lateral path toward the biochar. Ensure input voltage stays strictly in the micro-current range to keep the magnetic flux lines subtle and non-disruptive. The permanent magnetic field has a profound, measurable effect on the surrounding rhizosphere. Placed right in the middle of the massive 100-gallon pot, the 38 mm neodymium magnet acts as a powerful bio-magnetic anchor. Because the magnet is completely sealed and safe from corrosion, its magnetic lines of force will constantly radiate into the soil matrix. In plant biology and soil science, this triggers several notable physical and biological shifts. Water molecules are diamagnetic (weakly repelled by magnetic fields). When water moves through the soil near the magnet—whether from watering or root suction—the strong permanent magnetic field temporarily loosens the hydrogen bonds between water clusters. It breaks larger water groupings into smaller, highly uniform clusters. This "magnetized water" moves through soil capillaries more fluidly, lowering surface tension and allowing the roots and surrounding microbes to absorb moisture and dissolved ions much more efficiently. The field stimulates soil enzymes like phosphatase, which unlocks bound phosphorus in the soil and turns it into a bioavailable form for the plant. Many beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR), including nitrogen-fixing strains, are magnetically sensitive and show increased activity and modular clustering under a magnetic field. The field strengthens the communication networks among soil microbes, which actively boosts the plant's natural tolerance to environmental stressors like salt or drought. Roots exhibit a subtle trait known as magnetotropism. Plant cells use internal electrical gradients to guide growth and transport nutrients. The permanent magnetic field alters the transport kinetics across cell membranes, influencing auxin (growth hormone) distribution. As roots grow into the middle zone of the 100-gallon pot, they will likely develop denser branch networks and thicker root hairs to maximize surface area contact. Magnetic field strength drops off drastically with distance. A 38 mm neodymium magnet exerts a massive effect on the soil within a 10–20 cm (4–8 inch) radius around it. In the 100-gallon pot, it will not drastically affect the outer edges of the soil, making it a perfectly sized "core zone". The roots must grow relatively close to the center to interact with the high-flux zone of the field. Once they do, 432. Explosion. Those faint, clean yellow tips with zero browning, crispiness, or structural curling are not a sign of disease; they are a system-level operational signal from a plant running at maximum physical capacity. The system uses a 1.34 kPa leaf VPD, an N52 bio-magnetic anchor, and an active earth battery; the plant's water and mineral translocation is running at an incredibly high velocity. When a cannabis plant experiences zero osmotic shock but displays clean yellow margins at the extreme tips, it points to Early Photo-Regulatory Nudging (Incipient NPQ)At 84°F and 60% RH, stomata are completely open. If the light matrix is pushing a high PPFD, the chloroplasts at the very tips of the leaves—which receive the most uniform light and highest wind velocity—are operating at 100% saturation. The faint yellowing means the plant has initiated Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ) at its furthest boundary. It is temporarily slowing down chlorophyll production right at the tip to dissipate excess photon energy as heat, protecting the rest of the leaf blade from building up harmful Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). By incorporating marine crustacean biomass (shrimp and crab chitin) into the substrate catalyzed by the N52 magnetic anchor and an earth battery, this engineers a highly advanced biochemical trigger. In standard agriculture, elicitors are used topically to simulate pest pressure. In this system, chitin functions as a continuous, molecular sub-surface signal. When this organic polymer interacts with the super-fluid, magnetized water, it unlocks a powerful bio-energetic loop that forces the plant to maximize terpene synthesis without experiencing actual tissue damage. Raw chitin is a dense, insoluble polymer made of long chains of N-acetylglucosamine. In a typical organic soil, breaking down this structure takes months. However, this root zone features active soil electrolysis and magnetically restructured water. Water molecules passing through the 10–20 cm high-flux N52 magnetic gradient undergo diamagnetic restructuring. Their hydrogen bonds loosen, lowering surface tension and turning the moisture into a superfluid. This highly fluid water penetrates the crystalline structure of the crustacean biomass much faster than standard irrigation water. The earth battery's direct-current micro-voltage alters localized redox states, increasing the metabolic speed of beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR). These microbes rapidly produce chitinase enzymes, cleaving the dense chitin chains into low-molecular-weight, highly bioavailable chito-oligosaccharides. Relevance will become clear in later weeks.

Flushing her as her end draws near with just PHed water.

La plante est passé en 12/12 pour lancer la floraison des féminisées Flo 8: Arrosage engrais complets et taille secondaires Flo 12: Arrosage eau

WEEK 1 FLOWERING Since I will use the 7 weeks AN full nutrients program, one week is only 5 days Keep doing LST and defoliation every day or two I am using 100% RO water and give water every morning with nutrients included 🌱

Week 7 flowaaa !! Let me just say I am soo in love with growing cannabis I don’t do it for anything but the love for it just watching something grow to become these huge pretty colorful smelly plants is amazing! The GMO PUNCH is coming along very well becoming more vigorous and bright green as the days go on. The plants are still stretching which I was dreading so I actually put in another Scrog net you will see on my next post to help keep them from stretching too high .

J’ai fait un peu de lst et de défoliation. J’ai des mouches de terreaux j’ai donc ajouter des pièges collant jaunes. Mes plantes sont tout de même petites quand je compare à d’autres journaux mais c’est la première fois. D’ailleurs si vous avez des conseils pour faire mieux je suis preneur

Added some CO2 to help with photosynthesis while at higher temps. These ladies really blew up at the end of last week and this week! The smell has really starting to be noticeable and pistols / flowers are finally showing! Side note I finally got more seeds to replace the one I lost early on. These ladies are really starting to become a treasure. Ended my LST this week.

Começando a flora

Beginning of week... Out of the blue.. For no reason at all.. I went ahead and topped her. The branches are already beginning to form.. so I just wanted to speed them up a little 🤷 lol.. I also removed the bottom node (leaves and branches).. They usually just don't grow like the 2nd, 3rd, etc... and the branches were not symmetrical whatsoever lol.. That really grinds my gears (it really bothers the shit outta me lol).. She is left with 3 nodes at the moment.. I will decide which nodes I want to use and go from there.. So I will be going up a tad on the Armor Si.. Up on the CALiMAGic, adding in some FloraGro, amd going up just a tiny bit on the Floralicous Plus to bring it up to the normal dose.. Still using the Hydroguard and the MYCO Plus (powder) at the normal doses.. Other than that, just been watering/feeding when the top of the medium is dry, and when you can clearly feel the weight of the pot (bucket of butter lol) is pretty much weightless.. Basically, I feed on a Monday.. Then just plain pH'd water on Thursday or Friday.. Then back to feeding again on Monday.. This will obviously change once the roots fill the pot (bucket o' margarine) within the next couple weeks or so.. Btw.. Not sure if I mentioned this already.. Dont feel like going back and checking lol.. But I put about 2 - 3 inches of just perlite at the bottom.. Not sure if this helps or does anything lol.. But I've seen other people do it.. Had some extra on hand.. Sure! Why not? I never let this sit in runoff.. Infact, when I water/feed, I place the pot on top of a cup so that she won't be sitting in runoff and so I can collect the runoff as it drips out the bottom.. So far, the runoff pH comes out a little low still.. Going in at 6.2 and the runoff will be like 5.8 or 5.7.. But, I do believe that it has been slowly making its way up.. I should really start buffering and finding a way to remove roots when I harves, so I can keep reusing and avoid issues.. Anyways.. She is happy and healthy.. Topped her and remove the bottom node.. That's all there is to report on so far.. Will be updating mid week and end of week as I usually do.. So excited!!! 😁 Mid week.. So it looks like the bottom 2 branches are triploids! I could be wrong.. But that's what it looks like to me! Can't be mad about that! Lol.. I can tell she is going to be a short thing.. Perfect for this grow box! Not sure what these weird markings are.. But this literally popped up overnight.. Will be keeping an eye on it!.. Hopefully nothing.. But we shall seeee!... End of week... She's doing good.. I removed the very top node that I left.. Lol.. Yeah I can be very indecisive when it comes to that stuff.. Can always just remove one later if I need too.. But yeah.. I've kinda just been tucking the top 2 branches under the bottom 2 branches so that the bottom 2 can get some good lighting too.. So I try to switch once a day or sometimes twice a day.. Once the tops grow a bit more they should all be able to get their own light without the tucking and whatnot.. But still just been feeding toward the beginning of the week and just plain pH'd water toward mid/end of the week.. The runoff pH is a little acidic.. But it doesn't seem to be hurting anything so far.. The roots have made it to the bottom of the pot.. They did a long time ago, but have really filled the pot alot already.. But I've pushed plants alot longer in much smaller (veg for 6 weeks in a 9oz solo cup).. Her branches are so thick and sturdy! She is gonna be so strong!.. I really need to make sure I don't LST too late cuz it's gonna be hard to bend these tree trunk branches.. But I'm playing with her at least twice a day, so I doubt I will miss the opportunity lol.. But I can't wait to taste some Blue Berry!!! On to the next week!...

Any advice will be greatly appreciated

Gave a feed as had let them dry up a wee bit and am good for watering or should I say over watering so need to keep tellin maself less is more less is more also hav enuff feed to last so at least a know the plants won’t go hungry the amount a spent on feed n soil a coulda dun a 2 week shopping at Fukin marks n Spencer’s lol also spent 40 qwid on bio heaven they say it’s the coffee for your plants witever that means anyone who has used this product please comment n let me know how it worked for you even if ye were not impressed let me know