We have Day 2 of Week 5 from flowering. Everything looks green and nice. The Buds get every day Bigger and more and more Frosty. Wir sind in der 5. Blütewoche und alles läuft perfekt die Buds werden größer,keine Zickt rum und die zeit zur ernte Nähert sich langsam.

She's starting to fatten up nicely! Terps still off the meter,and the roots are ridiculous. Definitely one of the best plants I've ever grown.

Big Bitch Downunder 19th April 2024 11 weeks of flowering finished 😀 The buds are fattening up nicely now and are covered in big trichomes . The smell is getting better and better every week and I am anticipating a fantastic sativa harvest. As usual cheers for stopping by 👍

Overall harvest was satisfactory, no complaints or concerns during her grow, she grew shorts but healthy and had amazing COLAS!! Would surely grow again soon. 😎😎😎😎😎😎

Looks like she’s going to be a yielder!

13.4. - Slowly switching to bloom ferts. Also added Bud Candy to the mix. I had to defoliate a bit more as the humidity is raising during the night, even with dehumidifier. Watered 💧 15.4. - Seems like plants like the new mix. 4 of 7 plants already in flower. Jack even started to form the first buds. Watered 💧 17.4. - Plants look nice, buds are forming and each day I find more. Unfortunately, one plant (Gorilla) is probably some bad pheno and has a lot of thin leaves. However, it also starts to form some buds sites so nothing is lost! Watered 💧 19.4. - I'm totally out of free space. Plants took over the whole growbox and they're thriving ! However, I'm spotting some signs of nutrient burn/deficiency, so I gotta change up the mix again. I guess I will try to remove the Bio Grow. Watered 💧 13.4. - 19.4.2024

CALIFORNIAN GOLD DWC 19th April 2024 8 Weeks of flowering finished and I have emptied the rez and refilled with plain rainwater . I don't know how important ph'ing the water is for the flushing week but just to be sure , I dropped it to 5.7 👌 She sure smells good and the harvest window is fast approaching . I'll give her as many days as she needs to finish up and I'll cut her down . See ya's next week and Thanks again for stopping by 👍

Nine weeks since the switch and the Runtz have had 7 weeks of actual flowering. I've noticed more trichomes were produced, wich I checked and most of them were still clear, maybe 10-20% was getting milky and very few were amber. I want to see way more amber before harvest, so +/- 70 days of 12/12 will be needed. This week was the last time I gave them nutrients. That was on the first day. The rest of the week I gave them ph adjusted tapwater every other day. (ec 0.5 – ph 6.24) Next week I'll start flushing with ec levels of 0.3 For that I will use a mix of tap water and demineralized water. 3 liters(0.8 gallon) tapwater and 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of demineralized water gives a 0.3 ec level. The distance between the cobs and the plants got a bit higher, from 48cm(19inch) to 55cm (21.5 inch) and the power of the cobs was reduced to 300watt. Autumn is here...🍂🍁 Temperatures stayed between 18,4 – 23,9 °C (65 – 75 °F) and humidity levels between 34 – 50 % One week of ripening & flushing and then it will be time to harvest. To be continued... ✋ Do you want to grow this strain? 👉 https://www.zamnesia.com/6000-zamnesia-seeds-runtz-feminized.html 👈

Hi there, the mimosa cake is doing good so far. She is Not showing any signs of flowering so far. I Hope she will stay in veg for about 1 more week🙏 Hope you all have a nice day!!

Día 26. Estamos en la 4ta semana. Por ahora mantengo la solución y la planta sigue creciendo pero ya está casi para cortar los esquejes. La semana que viene seguro estoy cortando, y ya tengo que preaparar todo para pasar al otro modulo del infoor. Decidi dejar de aplicar HST y apliqué una recnica con colgantes que bajan las ramas y las mantienen perpendiculares al piso. De esta forma las ramas laterales empiezan a subir. Está técnica me ha dado muy buenos resultados anteriormente. El crecimiento ha sido acelerado y las ramas estan bastante gruesas. Mañana voy a cambiar la solución. Vengo realmente contento con los resultados. Este experimento me va a permitir saber cuanto puedo llegar a sacar de este espacio y ver si me permite armar un ciclo para poder llegar a la próxima cosecha con remanente para poder ir guardando variedades diferentes. De paso ya tengo una referencia de cuantas semanas toma hasta poder cortar esquejes, y así saber en que momento poner la próxima semilla. Puse unas semillas bastardas que tenía, y las pienso mandar a la terraza a florecer directamente en el invierno. Otra experiencia que si bien no ha dado grandes resultados, ha sumado al stock. La semana pasada no llegué a subir mucho. Pero mañana hago un update de cómo se han movido las ramas bajas. En el último video se muestran bien las ramas que pretendo convertir en esquejes. Seguro saque varios, así que habrá para regalar si logramos que enraizen varios. De por cierto las manchas blancad que se ven, es tierra de distomeas que ha quedado desde la aplicación en 2da semana.

Smooth few days after the defoliations. They seem to be happy. Malted Milk can be very temperamental but I have been catching on to her ways. Still wary with my feedings tho. Want to give all these different nutes and unknown what the results will be? Installed ac units in each room to ensure good temperatures and RH outside the tents. Hoping for another good week!

💐💐

Two obviously very different plants. Both huge, especially for autos but one looks like a typical sativa (long, stretchy, naturally well-aerated and allowing light to penetrate all the way down) and it smells exactly like Amnesia (citrusy with a slight earthy/spicy background). The other needs a couple more weeks to reveal her terpenes but looks wise it’s the typical cookie-type morphology with big round tight nugs and short internode space. Now maybe this is just a case of wild phenotypical variation or maybe I’m inadvertently growing some other strain. The package sure said Break-Up Cake auto but regardless, these are showing great promise in terms of quality and yield! Vamos a ver!

Week 2 of flower

Questa settimana flush!! ..abbiamo fatto girare l'impianto con solo acqua osmotica a ph 6.2, siamo giunti al termine di questo ciclo, tra qualche giorno raccogliamo e attendiamo la fase di seccatura delle cime per gustare finalmente il prodotto e stabilire la qualità il risultato finale!

Initially I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, everything fell so much that they all just kinda keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high Intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. First, Calcium Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth. I always stress it's best to know for sure before you apply any specialized nutritional supplement like Calmag. For a general boost, a broad-spectrum tonic like kelp meal is a safer option. Manure We’ve been applying manure to crops for as long as humans have been gardening. Its benefits have long been understood, and we’re increasingly aware of just how beneficial manures are to the garden. Different animals produce manure with different levels of nitrogen. Cow manure is the lowest, starting at as little as 1% nitrogen. Once allowed to age, that can drop to effectively zilch and even very high nitrogen composts like poultry manure will reach nitrogen of zero if left long enough. It also loses a lot of its characteristic odor and becomes simply another olfactory note in the garden. It’s rich in phosphorous and potassium, as well as all the trace minerals key to plant development. That includes calcium and magnesium, though not as abundant as other sources. Kelp Meal Kelp meal is probably my favorite of the low-nitrogen fertilizers. It’s low in the big three – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but provides an astonishing range of other micronutrients, as well as plant hormones that stimulate root growth. It can be added to the soil loosely, or used to produce a nourishing tea. I write at great length about kelp meal here. Suffice it to say that it’s an excellent source of trace elements that are often overlooked in other fertilizers, with very few drawbacks. Bone Meal For calcium, you can’t go past bone meal. It’s exactly what you’d imagine – ground bone. Gruesome though it might sound, it's a very sustainable soil amendment, and safe to use too. The bone is superheated to kill pathogens before being finely ground, resulting in a nutrient-dense material that provides abundant calcium, as well as being a rich source of phosphorus.

Initially I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, everything fell so much that they all just kinda keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high Intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. First, Calcium Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth. I always stress it's best to know for sure before you apply any specialized nutritional supplement like Calmag. For a general boost, a broad-spectrum tonic like kelp meal is a safer option. Manure We’ve been applying manure to crops for as long as humans have been gardening. Its benefits have long been understood, and we’re increasingly aware of just how beneficial manures are to the garden. Different animals produce manure with different levels of nitrogen. Cow manure is the lowest, starting at as little as 1% nitrogen. Once allowed to age, that can drop to effectively zilch and even very high nitrogen composts like poultry manure will reach nitrogen of zero if left long enough. It also loses a lot of its characteristic odor and becomes simply another olfactory note in the garden. It’s rich in phosphorous and potassium, as well as all the trace minerals key to plant development. That includes calcium and magnesium, though not as abundant as other sources. Kelp Meal Kelp meal is probably my favorite of the low-nitrogen fertilizers. It’s low in the big three – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but provides an astonishing range of other micronutrients, as well as plant hormones that stimulate root growth. It can be added to the soil loosely, or used to produce a nourishing tea. I write at great length about kelp meal here. Suffice it to say that it’s an excellent source of trace elements that are often overlooked in other fertilizers, with very few drawbacks. Bone Meal For calcium, you can’t go past bone meal. It’s exactly what you’d imagine – ground bone. Gruesome though it might sound, it's a very sustainable soil amendment, and safe to use too. The bone is superheated to kill pathogens before being finely ground, resulting in a nutrient-dense material that provides abundant calcium, as well as being a rich source of phosphorus.

First day under led lights after receiving the fresh cuttings. All of them are healthy but unfortunately is the night temperature at the moment a bit to low. All lights are dimmed; the sunlight leds on the lowest setting and the Cree cobs around 20%. Output watts for all leds is at the moment 280W. PAR readings coming up in the next days 💡 Now the PAR readings: 3x3 measurements at plant tip. Front row to the back. Measurements in mmol/m2s with the quantumsensor from apogee. 400,570,400,550,620,610,410,470,410. Around 500 in average.

Initially I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, everything fell so much that they all just kinda keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high Intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. First, Calcium Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth. I always stress it's best to know for sure before you apply any specialized nutritional supplement like Calmag. For a general boost, a broad-spectrum tonic like kelp meal is a safer option. Manure We’ve been applying manure to crops for as long as humans have been gardening. Its benefits have long been understood, and we’re increasingly aware of just how beneficial manures are to the garden. Different animals produce manure with different levels of nitrogen. Cow manure is the lowest, starting at as little as 1% nitrogen. Once allowed to age, that can drop to effectively zilch and even very high nitrogen composts like poultry manure will reach nitrogen of zero if left long enough. It also loses a lot of its characteristic odor and becomes simply another olfactory note in the garden. It’s rich in phosphorous and potassium, as well as all the trace minerals key to plant development. That includes calcium and magnesium, though not as abundant as other sources. Kelp Meal Kelp meal is probably my favorite of the low-nitrogen fertilizers. It’s low in the big three – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but provides an astonishing range of other micronutrients, as well as plant hormones that stimulate root growth. It can be added to the soil loosely, or used to produce a nourishing tea. I write at great length about kelp meal here. Suffice it to say that it’s an excellent source of trace elements that are often overlooked in other fertilizers, with very few drawbacks. Bone Meal For calcium, you can’t go past bone meal. It’s exactly what you’d imagine – ground bone. Gruesome though it might sound, it's a very sustainable soil amendment, and safe to use too. The bone is superheated to kill pathogens before being finely ground, resulting in a nutrient-dense material that provides abundant calcium, as well as being a rich source of phosphorus.

Day 21 Yay, Fiona is a dream of a plant so far. Huge, dark, lush leaves and fast development. She is going to be topped tomorrow as I am 100% sure she will be able to take it like a champ! Day 22 Got up early to top the princess and fed her nutes and calmag afterwards 🤞 Day 23 Fiona took the topping without any issues so far. I am expecting her development to be a bit slowed down but no major complications. Her leaves are as big as my hand and I am pretty sure she will fill up the entire 60x60 tent by the end of next week. Day 25 Yes, well. I don‘t even think Fiona slowed down after topping. I love this plant. Tomorrow, the two Autos will be gone. About time because she has started to stretch in every direction lately. Day 26 Today was a good day for the Princess. Started her with .3 water breakfast. In the afternoon, her roommates moved out and in the evening, I added the humidifier I got her and set up the SCROG. Hope she is as happy as I am.