I defoliated this week, in the 3rd week of flower. The stretch should be about over. Pistils and bud sites abound. I increased Tiger Bloom. Now we wait.

Bueno, le salió la radícula en las primeras 24h, pero quise esperar a que se desarrollara más antes de transpartarla al sustrato, tras pasar más de 48h me quedé sorprendido que siguiera (aparentemente) igual, la pase a la tierra(💦mojada en el centro con 100ml del agua que utilicé para germinarla), se me hizo eterno esperar a que sacara la cabeza, tremenda alegría al 4 día ❤️🙌🌱, al ver el sustrato relativamente seco volví a mojar💦(esta vez con la mitad, 50ml aprox.). Decidí comer hummus (como ella jijiji) y ponerle el plástico de invernadero con la idea de manter la humedad alta💦💦💦

Instagram:happy_stoney ~~ 2nd week for Guava Dawg x Tangie aka *Clifford* By DNA Genetics and Crockett Family Farms. They are enjoying life. Even if my humidity levels have been a bit low I've managed to keep them moist by giving a couple mists a day.

Das ist der neuste Stand von heute 18 Uhr ungefähr und sie riecht langsam wen man direkt daneben sitzt und sie wird größer und größer Ich habe vor sie Ende Juni noch umzutopfen in einen größeren Topf mit compo Erde was ihr bestimmt gut tut die Sonne scheint und es läuft. Es ist ein regulärer Samen von irgendeinem Strain da es würzig riecht gehe ich von einer Skunk Genetik aus. Hoffentlich wird die Pflanze Weiblich👍👍

Скоро харв, нормальные новости, пока молочные в основном, жду процентов 20% янтаря. Даю только Ripen. Давно не видно ботов, комьюнити крутится только вокруг конкурсов?

The green sensation product is doing magic you can see that they love this 😍🙏

Broke one of the original 8 growth tips early on, but she's grown nicely into her heptagon shape. Living soil still seems to have too much nitrogen for her, hopefully vegging her a few more weeks before flipping will burn through some of it. I've had to "mow the lawn" of clover a couple times now just to keep good airflow, and that fallen cover crop is starting to make a nice mulch...which in turn makes watering in coco a little less stressful. We're in late veg now, so tent is holding steady at: - PPFD = 600 - VPD = 1.0 - Temp = 82 F (28 C)

Lots of bud sights, starting to smell strong now, plants healthy and drinking plenty,

Werde die woche PK 13-14 geben

On day 1 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. I defoliated leaves blocking the inside/lower canopy to give more light to lower growth points keeping the top 2 leaves on cola tops. The girls are deff still stretching :) So far so good. I'm glad I flipped to flower early this run and could see even dropping the veg time by another week. Its tough working in a small grow space but I'm determined to master it lol. I lowered the lights intensity from 85% to 75% to give my tops 600-800 PPFD. Usually I just blast the plants with 100% until the stretch is over but I'm realizing that I'm way over doing it based on my quantum sensors data. On day 2 the reservoirs PH is 6.1. The girls are still stretching and putting out new preflowers. My tallest cola is 9" from the light(the other lower colas are between 10"-12" away from grow light). On day 3 I adjusted the reservoirs PH up from 6.0 to 6.3. My tallest cola is 8.5" from the grow light. Lower colas are mostly 10" away from light. On day 4 the reservoirs PH is 6.3. My tallest cola is 7.5" from my grow light and the average/lower cola distance from grow light is 10-11". I defoliated large leafs that are blocking lower bud sites and or touching each other causing wet spots on the leaves. I want as much airflow as possible as I can not control my night time humidity which can be as high as 80%-90%. My last run I noticed some sugar leaves touching my grow box walls and this caused them to start rotting. I want to avoid that this time around so I'm being careful not to have any wet spots from leaves laying on each other as well as keeping all colas far enough from my walls. In the future I would like to have the ability for de humidification but being in a small grow box in a garage makes it difficult to control my lung room. On day 5 I adjusted the reservoirs PH up from 6.1 to 6.3. My tallest cola is 7" from the grow light. Lower colas are mostly 9"-10" away from light. I defoliated and removed lower bud sites not receiving enough light. On day 6 the reservoirs PH is 6.1. My tallest cola is 6.5" from the grow light. Lower colas are mostly 9"-10". My tallest cola is getting 1000 PPFD while my lowers are 600-800 PPFD. On day 7 I changed out the reservoir and adjusted the PH to 6.1. The tallest cola is 6" from the light. Lower colas are mostly 9"-10"

they are taking nicely to 12/12 and they love the new pots- hoping nothing but good things for these girls! i have the other two GBs switched to 12/12 to show their sex. jan 12 looking good

First brown pistol hairs.

Il Super soil è stato preparato e le mie bambine sono nei loro vasi finali! Non vedo l’ora di vederle crescere sane e forti, faranno 16h di luce e 8h di buio così avranno più oscurità per migliorare la loro resina 😏 Vediamo intanto questa CBD Auto 20:1 di Fast Buds come cresce nel suo nuovo vaso!

finishing week 3 of stretch. Plants started to look pale, unclear if it was leaving the rez on too much vs. just hungry for higher EC. Towards end of week pulled them out of the trays and put drip trays in to give them a top-feed with generous runoff + some recharge. Pics of that are more in next week's photos.

Harvest in week 12. But I screwed up, I didn't have enough room to separate each variety, so I would put an average weight when everything was dry... I had done everything well, I had to mistake on the place of the drying bag Last pictures, mixed buds

for the 2nd week of the euphoria I gave her 2 ml of trimix, which contain mycorrhizae, trichoderma, amino acids and microelements, all organic (is what the brand says)

I can say I didn't expecting this.. she amazed me, and teach that you can get decent amount of buds in 1L pot also.. this is my first growing in small pot and teachs a lot about using your space..54300

Turned off IR @ nights Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

Week 7 green space looking lovely