The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Chucky324
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Hello. This is the end of the veg cycle and the first week in flowering. It's May 30/2023. The Breeders Description said 8 to 9 weeks of flowering. That should take us to August 1st. That would be the start of week 9 and Aug. 8th would be the end of week 9, so I plan to harvest around then. The greenhouse looks a little different than last time. My buddy Jerry brought me some bamboo (he went out of his way on his birthday to do that for me) What A nice guy he is. I used 18 of the longest pieces to make a Scrog type of net to hold up the big buds I hope to get. First year to try this bamboo thing. Hope it goes good. I might have to tie it up tighter. I did a good trim/prune, under the table mostly, but did remove some big fanleaves up top that blocked the lower branch ends/tips from seeing good light. I think it's also good to remove the big fanleaves that don't get much light any more. It promotes more growth up top. While trimming I left the branches that were growing straight down. I'll trim them off today for cuttings, for clones I'll make later. I mix 10ml of liquid seaweed with 1 gallon of water to put the cuttings in. I'll make 6 cups for 6 different plants numbered 1 to 6 so I don't mix them up. 😁 I'll pack up the lights later. I'll mix some transition to flowering, nutrient solution tomorrow. That means a little less N and a little more P and K. Thanks for looking in. Chuck.
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@MG2009
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06/15/2020 Harvesting a good amount of pollen, not sure if you can see but it is cloudy in here. Female will be fed Happy Frog fruit and flower 9-4-3. And that will be all she gets till harvest time (seeds popping out.) Next week male should be spent, putting out clouds of pollen every day very copious amounts! And diary will continue till I harvest her seed. Just topping off reservoir with plain water for the male I have got 1.3 grams of beautiful pollen to selectively pollinate only the finest of female specimens for at least 6 months. Cookie Cake will get dusted with this bad boy. As well as Red Sky #1
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@Roberts
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This was a great grow under the Unit Farm UF2000 light. Was a great yield for 100 watt light. Thank you again UNITFARMLED_justin. There will be more Unit Farm grows in the future. I will be conducting a photoperiod grow with a UF4000, and the UF2000 in my photoperiods room once my current grow is completed. The flower is very tasty, and potent as it has been in past. Thanks again grow diaries community for the likes, follows, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. I greatly appreciate the support. Happy growing, and be safe out there 🤜🤛🌱🌱🌱 Ps I named this girl Gretchen, she has a sister plant named Ingrid for those who know where Ingrid is. 🤣🤣🤣
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@Dico29
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Day 101, been cutting off fan leaves on lower nodes, adding ice cubes and spraying cold water on buds. Expecting about 5 more weeks till harvest but I don’t know just guessing Also I don’t know how to change the question so I’m gonna put it here, has anyone tried to defoliate some smaller colas then tie them together will that be beneficial for bigger bud(promote one another) or is it better to leave oxygen to pass through, thanks
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Very nice and healthy and easy veg grow..flipped
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Hello growers day 49 in the garden with the crystal candy/ red poison autos it’s been an easy week but getting very excited the red poison is starting to swell and it absolutely stinks I’m in my front room writing this and I can smell it bellowing down the stairs 😁the crystal candy Is also doing a banging job they’re filling out nicely what would of top the day off is if Iceland would have had a box or 2 of turkey twizzlers can you believe there back fuck you jamie Oliver it only took 15 years to bring en back and I go in there after work and all the shit cunts been in wiped em out wankers anyway back to the plants I’m going to start flushing what ever plants need it next week so until then be safe and happy growing ✌️
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@BodyByVio
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Day 9 I had no choice but to defoliate, the canopy was getting way to dense and humidity was hard to control even with my 30 pin dehumidifier. Hopefully will not affect to much. Probably I will do another defoliation on day 21. TDS stays at 550PPM this week and CO2 at 1200PPM.
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What's up Growmies🤟🏽. Week # 8 is in the books🙌🏾 Hello week #9💪🏾 I went a little overboard on pictures this week, they are so happy and healthy that I got carried away. I know we are supposed to post pictures with the lights off, however it's something about the contrast it gives with the lights on that makes it look sexy to me😁. I have had to tie the stalks of both White LSD plants due to heavy sagging. I'm noticing with this strain the stalks seem to topple over even though the buds are far from fully developed. A trellis net probably would be ideal however I hate them. They are easy to put on but very difficult to take off come harvest. I use garden wire and string them as if they are puppets being controlled by the puppet master🤪. I continue my feeding schedule with the recommended "bloom" concoction using general hydroponics Flora series trio. I give them 1 liter every 3 days. I have them on a 2 to 2 cycle (feed them twice with nutes and then twice with plan water) I keep the p.h. around 6.1 to 6.6. Temps and humidity are in the perfect range I'm enjoying it while it last because spring and summer in VA makes it difficult to keep the humidity in check. All in all everything is going well for me and my ladies. I hope the same for all of you. Until next week my friends Happy Growing 🤟🏽 and may the grow goddesses bless you all with a bountiful harvest 💪🏾
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@Rob691
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D-77 : Girls are going well and they are beautyful but, they are growing alot less than expected. They are 30cm behind they should be. I hope it is because of all the effort I made on the mainlining process at the beginning....
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The third week is over, and the ladies have finished their stretching phase. This meant one last trimming. I removed all the solar eclipses that were on a flower. This way, every flower receives light and photosynthesis is absorbed through the lower part. This way, I achieve maximum yield and no undeveloped flowers
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@SgtDoofy
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April 11 Just got done with some serious defoliation. Removing all kinds of nodes that would have wound up as less than popcorn bud while taking up valuable space in the light. Some of the tips of the leaves up top got sacrificed as I waited to feed for a bit too long while I wanted for a calmag solution to be delivered. Little ugly, but no worse for the wear.
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Erster, photoperiodischer Outdoorgrow. Hätte einiges besser machen können, jedoch hatte die Pflanze keine Schädlinge und hat sich insgesamt gut entwickelt :) Habe leider keinen Südbalkon aber bin trotzdem happy mit dem Ergebnis!
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@Grow3rPT
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Total de Dias 15 - 17/08/2021 / Inicio da 3º semana Total de Dias 16 - 18/08/2021 Total de Dias 17 - 19/08/2021 / Rega Total de Dias 18 - 20/08/2021 Total de Dias 19 - 21/08/2021 / Rega com 2ml de calmag apenas por prevenção Total de Dias 20 - 22/08/2021 Total de Dias 21 - 23/08/2021 / Rega
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Cut back on the nutes mostly using flowering products nothing really major to report I’m happy to see the amount of frost forming on the cheesecake, and the purple squirrel are nice and chunky! Did res change last nite. Aug 23.
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Start of week 1 flowering. Growth is really amazing this week.
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@growwise
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Dream Queen #1 tallest @ 5.5". Been a struggle this week trying to dial in humidity. Had ranges between 20-80%. Hope to get a humidity controller this week. Watering with leftover fish fertilizer from last feeding. Added 8 oz of worm juice from my worm farm totes. 20% runoff with 6.2 ph and 2900ppm. Crazy high I think. Watching to see how the react before I make any adjustments. 1/13 everything going as planned 2 dream queen and 2 g.s.c transplanted to 1 gallon pots