This week was a quiet week to avoid disturbing the beginning of flowering. I think the deficiencies are under control and there's no worsening to fear. Nevertheless, I will need to remain vigilant. The plant is starting to smell.

Start of week 2 commences 🌱💚 Few days late updating last week but not much change allthough all testers are on the hunt for light and standing tall 🌱 I have opted too start them with aptus startbooster and regulator and may continue too use the full aptus line but not yet still 100% I will decide on the start of proper vegetation on monday, I may stick with shogun as I'm quite confident & keep my other diary which I currently have humboldts ice cream cake & blacktunaco toronjaz all on aptus range as my learning journey with aptus too begin 👌 Appolagies minimum images as I had not accessed them untill 2 days later... Many photos and videos pending monday start of veg 😍 I will say they are looking eager stay tuned too see 😎👊💚

Gracias al equipo de Fast Buds 420 por la donación de las semillas y poder inscribirme en el concurso del año. Creada a partir de la genética de la Girl Scout Cookies y la Gorilla Glue #4, seleccionadas a mano y en combinación con nuestra famosa Gorilla Cookies Auto, esta variedad lleva todos los mejores atributos de sus padres al más alto nivel. Este híbrido maravillosamente equilibrado prospera en el interior y en el exterior, y en todo tipo de climas, a la vez que es superresistente a los bichos y las plagas. Es una productora masiva que ofrece a los cultivadores de todos los niveles rendimientos de hasta 650 g/m² de cogollos de primera calidad que no decepcionan en absoluto. Siendo una de las versiones más potentes de esta genética, la Gorilla Cookies FF (Fastflowering) presume de un enorme porcentaje de 29 % de THC que se traduce en montones de resina y terps sabrosos que hacen las mejores extracciones. Es la elección perfecta para los cultivadores de hachís que buscan cepas de gran potencia que produzcan sabores y aromas excepcionales. Consigue aquí tus semillas 😁🌻🚀: https://2fast4buds.com/es/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering 📆 Semana 11 de floración: Es la planta mas grande y con mas resina de todas las que tengo, esta aceptando muy bien los nutrientes. Los cogollos continuan engordando y cargandose de resina. Riego una vez con nutrientes ec 1850 ph 6.2 y dos veces con agua reposada 2 dias ec 150. La planta sigue aceptando muy bien los nutrientes, los tricomas empiezan a tomar color, se acerca la etapa final.

06/24: fastidieuse 3h de trim.

Lots of bud development, starting to stack up a bit. Thinking I will see a lot more bud growth in the coming weeks. The older PT is finishing up this week and starts our harvest for the next few weeks. I’ll be checking seeds on the buds I pollinated and trichomes on the others. There are a few random seeds isn’t he tent but so far it appears that the majority of the bud is seedless. I think I was able to minimize the pollen like I wanted to. Male plant was chopped at the beginning of this week after only a few pods opened. I only needed a few to get enough seeds to grow again in the future.

In this week i decided to only give them another startbooster which contains some rootstimulator. Some days after feeding with startbooster, i gave them some water. There are still so many kinds of nutrients in the soil. The plants look a little light green, i have been checking my run-off water and it should be fine( still higher EC then i used to have but i have already explained why it is that way). I'm not overwatering so it's not a (N)itrogen problem which can most of the time results into light green leaves. ( when there is no nitrogen in the soil the roots will not or barely take any water(nutrients) I had the same thing with other sativas in the past, behind the window before and in later stages it got solved. I still have to remind myself that it is a fun-outside-grow so i should'nt complain about low humidity(40-45) which should be 85%, temperature 20-21 degrees which should be 26-27, being behind a glas window instead of better exposure to the sunlight or lamps, not having fans on it to get better firm stems or closer lightsource so they don't stretch that much. For now i start getting them used to the sunlight by carefully putting them in shade places or with a few hours sunlight. It went well but except for the bigger pot plant, you can see on the highest leaf that it got a little bit curly but still not a big issue. I might buy some Canna Cure this week. Canna cure is good against insects, molts and such. It also holds some nutrients. Very usefull for outside growing. Since i don't want to overwater or overfeed my plants because i want them to root alot, this might be a solution to give them some extra nutrients, it also makes the leaves more green. When the plants are getting bigger and more thick i want to start doing LTS, i order to do so i just have a little bit time left to bully them a bit with keeping them dry for rooting. I don't want to do that while doing LTS. Don't mind the temperature meter, its not 32 degrees outside. It was still inside behind the window between the curtains. It hotter there. ( might also be the reason for some stretch in the plants)

Chopped them today, great coloring so far, really excited to see how they turn out by the end. There weren't any issues this week as it was just a flush and a few days of darkness. I've got to get better at lollipoping and maintaining the skirt in the future. Definitely a lot of wasted energy and nutrients going into flowers that never budded out.

Tiene unos cogollos bien duros y compactos,son muy pegajosos y los pistilos son de un naranja radioactivo,tiene un aroma muy rico como terroso y mentolado

MATARO BLUE by KANNABIA Week #12 overall Week #11 Veg This week all is well she hasn't faltered under the heat stress she's been a strong healthy plant so far this summer. Waiting for this lady to start and flower. Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com MATARO BLUE

Left alone for a week in autopot. Lack of nutrients :(

Soil used in 5 - 5 Gallon Pots RO Water 6.8 PH 40% FFOF 40% FFHP 10% PERILITE *1% BAT GUANO - 1 Handful per 10 Gallons EWC 1 Handfuls per every 5 gallons of soil LIME 1 tbsp per 2 Gallon of Lime Soil 1 - 3 Gallon Pot RO Water 6.8 PH 45% FFOF 45% FFHP 10% PERILITE Any comments welcome!

Nothing new. The feeding schedule stayed the same just riding through the weeks now. Started to defoliate gently.

got bud rot on top head had to chop her down last time im doing a auto next to veging plants could not keep humidity down at last 2 week

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I learned a lot this grow. The plant survived which lends to its resilience. It smells mostly skunky with some hints of rubber. Mistakes: 1. Overwatered seedlings 2. Ran unfamiliar nutes 3. Ran an unfamiliar feed method (fertigated instead of top dressed) 4. Gardened based on web description instead of what the plants were communicating to me. 5. Got a seed Successes: 1. They didn't die! 2. Got climate dialed in well 3. No fungus gnats or other pests! 4. Got 2oz total of good dry bud!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Just in 1.5 day roots went really big 😁 I wasn’t watering plant since 17.02.25 So it still drink drenaje. Don’t know is that really good. Haven’t check what it shows. Next time will do it. But I think I can damage plant if won’t give oxygen in water. Help please

Started the seeds by soaking in Distilled water for 12 hours. After that, directly into the soil which is a Promix HP and Worm Castings mix. Seeds we’re planted on different days as I discovered the others I had started weren’t going anywhere… First seed Day 1 was Jan 8, the Second and Third seed sprouted Jan 12. Keeping the RH as high as it can be, and temps consistent with a 24 hour light cycle. Misting the plant with distilled water very sparingly, trying not to overwater and let the humidity keep the plant going. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️

FUCK BOYS .... AND ONLY A LOOK TO LOOK AT THEM ... THOSE SUGARS FILLED WITH SUGAR MAKE YOU WANT TO EAT THEM ... I ALREADY FEEL A GOOD SMELL !!! .... I CAN'T WAIT TO TASTE THEM ALL * THE CENTRAL PLANT ENDED TO BURN HIMSELF ... BUT THE IMPRESSIVE THING IS THAT, AFTER HAVING SPACED THE LAMPS, THE LATERAL ROPES ARE COVERING THE SANDED PART * THE STRAIN ON THE RIGHT AND GROWING SELF-DRIVEN AND HAS DEVELOPED TWO APICAL TOPS WITH TWO DIFFERENT BRANCHES .... I AM IMPRESSED BY THE RESISTANCE OF THESE CHILDREN .... @FAST_BUDS YOU ARE A GREAT