Bonjour les cultivars 😎 photo de la semaine deux et début de la semaine 3 les petits vont bien je pense être pas mal niveaux croissance +17 arrosage a l'eau depuis le début sa varie entre 2 et 3 jours l'arrosage... J'ai effectuer le LST YA DEUX JOURS j'espère être dans les temps... Et j'ai monter un peux lampe pour quel s'étire un peut surtout la moby j'avais de mal pour la lst sur la moby cause entre noeud très court j'avais peur d'abîmer les secondaire... Je vais commencer à nourrir la vie microbienne avec de la mélasse de canne sinon tous questions et conseils sont les bienvenu merci bonne culture à tous🎄🎄🎄

Sigue atrasada la floración. Le puse un HPS + Cob para dar mayor temperatura al ambiente.

Hi all! our creative grownig is going great! the branches began to grow more actively .. I had to make a topping of the rear central branch (I call it the tail) in the hope that the front branches will catch up with them on the top .. in general I am happy with how the composition will appear)) but still ahead ..

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Week six! Pre-flowering stage! The plant continues to grow very wel, apparently it will have a very good flowering, I'm spraying colloidal silver on one of the lower branches in order to get some pollen, I have other bananas to pollinate.

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Had bend her main cola over again!! She was growing into the light. She just keeps spreading out too! Wish I had a bigger tent for her. The buds are starting to fatten a bit. I defoliated her again. Trying to get some better light penetration and air flow.

I continued like normal with the feed expect for one day which I just put pH correct water in the tank as I saw I little nutrition burn on the leaf tips. The temperature was difficult to maintain so I added a fan adjuster so I could regulate it easier.

Una delicia esta genetica, muy alimonada. Lo que he notado del 13/11 ademas de que se atrasa bastante la cosecha, es la cantidad de tricomas q se generan, y las flores quedan hecha roca. Excelente servicio para el q sabe eaperar

11/13 Started Super Cropping on Amy, Gina, and Rosa, Judy is just at her 4th node, so i reached the second node and twisted the stalk until I could feel the fiber break and then I bent the stalk in the direction that I will ultimately tie down in, not long enough yet to get to the edge of the pot. In an hour I checked on the girls and they were all back to normal. 11/14 Watered 500 mil 6.5 PH tied down Amy, Gina and Rosa, broke a leaf off of Amy while bending 11/15 Spritz with Yucca foliar spray reapplied LST girls are looking great really healthy and green 11/16 Reapplied LST and accidentally broke the main stem on Gina, decided to go ahead and top her since the break was at a node and impossible to tape, so I guess we are also testing topping as well as going Organic. Adjusted lights to 25 inches above Judy the shortest girl. Brewed up an Organic Tea using 1 Cup Nature's Living Soil Concentrate, 1 Cup EB Stone Earth Worm Casings, 1 Tablespoon Unsulphered Molasses, 1 Tablespoon Fish Meal with Kelp, let the tea brew for 18 hours. 11/17 Fed each girl 1 Liter of Compost Tea reapplied LST the thought is the plants are three weeks in the soil and are growing at a healthy pace (with the exception of Judy), I want to make sure they have enough food in the soil available to them now to take them to flower. Next week I will apply dry amendments and 2-8-8 fertilizer to be available that first week of flower. 11/18 Out of town so gave them a light spritz of Yucca before lights on and that's it. 11/19 Man one day without reapplying LST and it freaking shows!! I had to go to town and really work the stems back into shape, really started to figure out what I am actually trying to achieve with spreading the stems out to expose as many sites as possible and trying to get as even a canopy as possible. So at the end of it I had to Super Crop a few stems on Rosa that had grown a little too long, tied down the rest of her stems and tucked the large leaves as best as I could to get as many sites as possible exposed. Applied the same approach to Gina but since she was inadvertently topped little easier to do, also I can see since I fed them the Compost Tea Gina has bounced back from her chop and her leaves are upright and pointing to the light, the two new "main stems" are growing outward and are close to the Mesa that i am creating. Judy is the weird little runt with tight, tight nodes like she's hiding something.....Trudy Judy.....So I just bent her main down and moved the stems as best as I can, I would love to let her just do her thing but I also wanted to try ScrOG on this run but we'll see after next week. Amy, Amy, Amy my pouty princess I don't think she likes being shorter than Rosa because she's become almost shy, not as aggressive growth that she was showing before. Reapplied LST on her main and tucked leaves, also started defoliating some of the lower leaves off of her. I'm going to start plucking lower leaves off of all of the plants going forward to prepare them for the switch to flower. The girls are all showing their sex and I can safely say that they are all Ladies, I'm seeing pistils forming and sites starting to show. I soaked the ladies down with 1/4 tsp Nectar of the Gods Bloom Khaos and 16 oz PH 6.2 bottle. Checked back on them 3 hours later and all of their faces are pointing to the lights, the leaves look amazingly green with no noticeable deficiencies. The Ladybugs are going to town and I don't know what I'm more excited about the amazing growth of the girls or seeing a ladybug crawling on a leaf!

420 Fastbuds Amnesia Haze Auto Week 6 This week has been interesting especially since the outside Temps have gone back up into the mid to high 90's. Over all the plants have been OK and still growing well. Definitely can't wait for mid flower to see how they'll start to smell. Happy Growing

Hello this is week 8, week 4 of flower 4-5-6 weeks of flower are the most important because it's bulking phase, i have already see trichomes on sugar leaves are forming, which is a good sign! Wish me luck. Day 51 i did a small defoliation to open up the canopy for better light penetration and airflow Day 52 slightly lime green leaves on the top can be caused by low nitrogen in my water soo i decided to ise more Pro Organic Bloom nutrient, or it may can be just because of flowering stage, who knows😁 Day 55 plant is still yellow at the top, i don't know why, it can be either low PH in roots or nutrient deficiency, but PH is 6.8 at roots, so it must be PK lockout, i will stop using full disagree of Big Bud, for a few waterings. It also can be from genetics because i have seen many Wedding Cheesecake with the same issue, so i don't worry too much.

Really picked up in growth this week but even though there Auto still no sign of flower. The research I've done seems to suggest that a photo period of 20 4 is neassery to induce flower

Solid 10 inches of growth this week. Ladies were top dressed with more soil on Thursday night. Also game them a cal-mag boost with some Earth Pods back on Monday. The larger ladies are staying out in the garden, but the more finicky Critical Mass and Charlotte's Angel's are in the small greenhouse.

Week 12 – Day 88 / FLO 58 BOX: 80x80 - lamp 250W 🌞 Temp: 25°C 💦 RH: 50% 💥 PPFD: 700+ µmol 🌬️ VPD: 1.5 ⚡ EC: 0.2

Royal AK: Buds are still somehow small, but I see their promise. Hopefully, they will get more forsty after I cut the quick one and move the light further. Quick one: Buds are maturing quickly. I started flushing already on day 50

Chopped one before vacation and off to dry while I'm in Ireland and the UK, leaving the other one to keep going and chopped on return.