El living la Vida chedda mother Fukin Bob 112 here wee fuking go usual rite troops need tae go see a man aboot a dug

It grew so fast, I’d definitely recommend it for a first time grower, im gonna try growing a photo next time, It’s was very sweet tasting, but a bit dry think I need to learn a bit more about drying and curing before my next grow

Allright guys & gals, In my Quest to mastering the art of growing my own bud I've reached the classic, overfeeding point but i've decided to just dile it down a gear and keep at it...I'm amazed with the Northern Lights blooming, it looks way readier then the Diesel Haze, eventhough it was planted 2 full weeks after. the budsare smaller still, but fostier and just looking riper....I have noticed the bigger leaves getting some nasty nuteburn (or at least I guess thats what it is) . I will definately go super easy on the nutes next grow. ....Trust the process.... Update... The NL is suffering quite a bit... Update... Giving just water the next times to see if they recover... Pistils becoming brown now and smell slowly getting stronger...

35 dias de actividad en el indoor, foto periodo de 20 horas de luz y 4 de oscuridad

Lost the top two colas due to bud rot after 2 weeks of storms :( apart from that she is a fantastic strain to grow an absolute pleasure

Le Royal Gorilla 🦍 stanno proprio 😌 una meraviglia, avvicinandomi sento un adore floreale meraviglioso e già posso vedere il ghiaccio ❄️ sulle foglie da zucchero, non vedo l’ora di vederle alla fine della 9º settimana come saranno gonfie e gelide 🤞🌬️🚀✨mi piace tanto questa varietà, è la terza volta che la coltivo e sono rimasto sempre soddisfatto, a parte ovviamente gli errori da coltivatore 👨‍🌾 inesperto ma sicuramente quelle volte ho avuto la fortuna di trovare ottimi fenotipi…cerchiamo di tirare fuori il massimo da ognuna 🤩🙌🦍📸

Updates coming

Had a slow growth due to my veg tent had very low humidity but they starting to bounce back to life

The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Coop Poop, Molasses, Feather Meal, and Soluble Kelp are ml/gallon of soil top dressed. Everything else listed in nutrients is ml/gallon of water fed to plants without checking the solution Ph. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 87°F. We had over cast skies, some gusty wind, and rain. Luckily the thunderstorms missed us. The rain did water for me. Day 2 we had a high temperature of 81°F. We had a break from the rain and I watered about 4-5 gallons per pot. Girls are still drinking heavy. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 68°F. We had overcast skies and rain most of the day. I left the house in the morning and was out til the night. I came home and a thunderstorm had wrecked most of the garden. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 72°F. The sun came out and it was super humid. I watered a few gallons as the pots and ground were still soaked. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 78°F. Skies were mostly sunny and other than the powdery mildew thriving in the humid rainy weather these girls are looking and smelling very good. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 70°F. Skies were mostly cloudy to partly cloudy. It's been very humid. I watered about 4-5 gallons. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 70°. The chance of rain was 50%. We caught the rain again. It was off and on most of the day. It was misty when it wasn't raining. I fed the number 2 plant 80ml molasses poured on top of soil and let the rain wash it in. Despite the major challenges with weather, this week was a success. These girls are really loud. They have a wonderful watermelon smell. One is straight watermelon funk. The other has a noticeable melon smell but the glue peppery, spicy, gassy smell is dominant. The powdery mildew has been the biggest challenge. This weather is just dominating my efforts to keep it sprayed off. The Ozarks make for a challenging outdoor environment.

i'm in love with this grow. I'm also drunk! good pics and druken videos. I love fastbuds/ Fastubds is life!

🎩🌈🍬

Lefty was dropped during veg that explains why she looks a few days behind the other i damaged a high fan leaf in about week 5 of veg and now I know what effect it has so not to do it again! Started on pk13 two days ago just a video update for now 😋

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

The blueberry smells lovely but what I want is ripe seeds to start a true feminized plant lol…I love the blue berry cross I can’t wait for some ripe seeds

Ho iniziato a fare lst del primo secondo internodo gli altri li farò inseguito cosi cerco di allargarle il piu possibile in modo tale che la luce prenda tutti i nuovi getti

GORILLA COOKIES 🍪 FF / FASTBUDS WEEK #12 FLOWER WEEK #4 FLOWER This has been another good week for this lady her buds are getting bigger with decent trichomes coverage! Stay Growing!! Gorilla Cookies FF / FASTBUDS

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Habe sie heute geerntet. Wir hören uns in 3 Wochen mit dem Erntebericht. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent