Flushed these out a little yesterday to prevent build up. Starting to swell up a little bit.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Nothing but plain pH adjusted water from now until chop, Any comments appreciated Missed aot of footage on herebut not really ram into any problems.

hello some news on vegetation day 22, start the bio grow, and bend the four Lateral head, and crap when i bend a stem has cracked but she is not cut I straighten them with a piece of iron she can go back. 😀👍

Week 7

The light that came with my 4x4 tent can't even change the light cycle

That was the most difficult week. It was very cold and rainy, the humidity of the air reached 90% at most, but without sequels, thank God. On day 63, I defoliated and she is strong, fat and definitely smells like cheese.

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 30/01/2020 - One more week to go ! Trichomes still transparent. 01/02/2020 - Gave her 1,5l RO water

Приветствую всех, кто следить за мной. Ваша поддержка очень важна для меня. На следующий день после того как я обновил прошлую неделю дневника наступило время пересадить растения в более крупное ведро. Я покажу вам как использовать дешовые пивные стаканы для пересадки ваших растений. Вы можете посмотреть это на первом видео. Когда я пересаживал растения я дополнительно добавил микоризу в большое ведро. Они укоренялись менее недели, порядка четерых дней. После чего они всё ещё показывают некоторое замедленный в росте и стресс, но в этот раз я забыл открыть окна, чтоб свежий воздух попадал и сбивал тепмературу в помещенье, так как мои лампы достаточно сильно греют несмотря на мощную вентиляцию. Поэтому сегодня я так же я дал корневые и вегетативные стимуляторы роста, а так же основное питание и поставил комнату на проветривание. Я так же удалил первую пару непродуктивных листьев и отростающих от них боковых ветвей, так как правило они бывают непродуктивными и замедляют рост растения отводя на себя часть гормонов роста и питательных веществ. До новых встречь, если вам интересно следить за Русской травкой, подписывайтесь на мои дневники ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greetings to all who follow me. Your support is very important to me. The day after I updated the last week of the diary, it was time to transplant the plants into a larger bucket. I will show you how to use cheap beer glasses to transplant your plants. You can watch it on the first video. When I transplanted plants, I additionally added mycorrhiza to a large bucket. They took root less than a week, on the order of four days. After which they still show some growth retardation and stress, but this time I forgot to open the windows so that fresh air enters and knocks down the temperature in the room, since my lamps warm quite strongly despite the powerful ventilation. Therefore, today I also gave root and vegetative growth stimulants, as well as basic nutrition and set the room to air. I also removed the first pair of unproductive leaves and lateral branches growing from them, since as a rule they are unproductive and slow down the growth of the plant, releasing some of the growth hormones and nutrients. Until we meet again, if you are interested in following Russian weed, subscribe to my diaries

He hecho varias podas para controlar el crecimiento de las plantas. Sirve también para hacer las ramas un poco más fuertes, porque es una variedad que tiene tendencia a crecer alta, fina, con ramas débiles.

Harvest day for the Fat Monkey Auto from @anesiaseeds In the video, the Main Bud has already been removed Nutrients: @atami_deutschland / @atami.international / @stefan_atami / @daniel_atami Soil: @promixgrowers_eur / @promixgrowers_global / @promixgrowers_unfiltered / @promixmitch LED: @powerlux_spain Tent: @secretjardin_ Thank you to everyone who follows and supports my work 🙏🏻💚 This means a lot to me and you should know you are a part of it and only with you all this is possible, you are the best community 😎 Growers love, love for everyone

Hi All, The week was pretty uneventful, the plant is developing nicely. I removed a leave here and there to make sure maximum light exposure in the middle of the canopy is guaranteed. The buds stopped stretching so I’ll will stop with the boost and add the pk 13/14 to help with the fattening. Dried and smoked a few of the lowest popcorn buds and they are by all means not there, but smell and taste pretty awesome. I have also added a few pictures of the new box that I have built for the cuttings. The box was build pretty low budget, however I will still need to add a better light source as I am currently running on only 60W veg lights. Was planning to buy the Greenception GCx5solo 150W full spectrum LED, as it would fit exactly Inside the box.

Are these autoflowers doing ok my first grow week 4

Was great till hplvd destroyed my prior photoperiod run, and got transferred over to this one. So destroying this run today as I have met my Spider Farmer contract date. I can now clean and start over. I will be back. 👍🏻 Thank you Spider Farmer, and AMS. Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer G300w: https://amzn.to/3S2zvsd Spider Farmer 10X20 Heat Mat Kit - https://amz.fun/lsa0J Spider Farmer Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/spiderfarmer Spider Farmer Official Site: https://spider-farmer.com Discount code: saveurcash

Photoperiod buds 🤩 The smell is absolutely divine very fruity,sweet & tropical🍋🍊🍉🍌 Solid like a diamond 💎 Bay harbor butcher’s trim to show the density

Day 15 Update : Decided to grab a tape measure to check canopy heights on a whim and discovered that my light was hanging 35 inches from “Cellie” Cereal and Milk . Wowzers 👀! So I raised the plant to be 26 inches from the light that I also dimmed down to about 40% . It works out that I can try to get the most out of the end of flower stretch for the older gal who shall no more than be mentioned for reference to accentuate the great glorious glamorous “Cellie”. The humidity plummeted after I did a major defoliation of the older gals so I adjusted the airflow rate of the lower in-line fan and the upper inline exhaust fan with the carbon filter . I lowered them both to the lowest setting & the humidity returned to “normal” Let me explain my reasonings/thinking behind my adjustments which are experimental at BEST. It’s worth also mentioning without having to preset a single thing on my 70pint Dehumidifier located inside this tent it is legitimately only plugged into my PRESET humidistat controller which is set to 50%-46% RH WITH an alarm on highs of 55% and lows of 43% . In real life what this translates to is when this humidity controller triggers the dehumidifier ON @50%RH immediately the fan of the Dehumidifier begins running. However this does not help the rising humidity that is occurring (it will reach 55%-60.2%RH ). Given a fixed amount of time , the condenser(atleast what it sounds like . .again, it could be anything) turns on . It is when this “condenser” “sounding” component begins working that the humidity IMMEDIATELY plummets down to my low point of 46% So to make a long story short the humidity gets vacuumed to 46%RH & the dehumidifier turns off, bc of the PURPOSEFUL EXPERIMENTAL TWEAKING making all air exchange fans low leveled the humidity slowly but steadily rises to 50%RH then the dehumidifier is triggered on but only the fans initially and the humidity eventually reaches 55%RH-60.2%RH & then the humidity gets all its hair snatched out by the dehumidifier and drops back down to 46%RH. 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 with all that said of anybody was even interested per my tents leaf canopy height temperature average good to great OR LITE GREEN TO DARK GREEN VPD for my temperature begins @ 60 & ends @ 52 which is kind of a perfect storm for OUR GIRL “CELLIE” oooooooorrrrrrrrrrr sssssssoooooo I think/hope . She still hasn’t needed watering since being transplanted, she should now ready and willing to stretch those toes and we need the opportunities to top water that soil a few times to make those dry amendments available to her . More pics of later the week coming as we go . . Hopefully . Diligence is a practice Day #17: giving her some water today, no specific amount just until she feels the right amount of “heavy”. She was given 3 different batches of water once ph’d to 6.3 once ph’d to 6.7 one ph’d to 6.5. She’s grown an inch in 2 days. Also swapped out the smart hygrometer system to a different brand . So far it has all the capability I was looking for but I need to run 2 more experiments to know for certain it lives up to my needs and its price tag 😁 Day 18 Update: she grew an inch taller nice 👍 The smart hygrometer system has reported/experience Bluetooth failures twice already(although I don’t know exactly what that means considering I purchased this for it’s Wifi capabilities ) I didn’t think to check it whilst I was away so I cannot yet say If it meets my final expectation/need I bought a soil ph meter & it indicates “my mix” is at 3.1 ph 👀 hmm 🤔 I’m wondering if this is a must fix or can I get by .eventually she will be transplanted and at that time I can use my new digital soil ph probe to construct her new blend moving forward but I am curious is I mixed another batch at 3 something ph would it matter ? In the beginning I wasn’t ph’ing any of my watering just because I assumed my soil mixture was highly acidic because of the 70ish pecernr peat moss base . I also assumed that it would be acid fixing for the water I put in it and therefore wouldn’t need to ph it and I did just fine just giving plain old tap water when thirsty until I experience VPD issues & in an effort to pinpoint what my exact issue was and how to fix it I of course eliminated all the variables and dialed in on my ph of my feed water and now my soil so it leaves me wondering does the soil need to be relatively 6.1 ph or is the 3.1 I’m flying at alright also . I checked the other 3 currently in here getting through flower & two of them are in the 3’s for ph & one of them is 6.2(the largest of them all) how ever she was the largest of them all always and oddly enough I mixed one big batch for them and transplanted them at the same time so I get two of them having the same ph as “Cellie” but the other that is in ph heaven is an oddball Should I top her here or supercrop later hmm I need to decide my vision for this thing Day 19 Update: ponytailed her youngest internode for about 16hrs she aggressively popped out of it twice ! It didn’t even work for 24hrs when I try it again it’ll be before the internode is so strong . Also rigged up a 16in oscillating wall-fan that currently being held with 2 zip ties , 2 rubber bands , & a smidget of duct tape and MAJORITY OF FAITH keeping it in place . The biggest plus to my added circulation is that I got the 16in fan for ! A win is a win . Pics uploads will be held for the next 3 days until the end of week 3 upload . Drop a thumbs up Day 20 Update : THE FAN FELL! But no one was damaged or injured . I re-rigged it . This time with duct tape , 3 popsicle sticks , 2 heavy duty zip ties & 1 regular strength zip tie . SHES SOLID NOW 😂 I did some solid rigging this time & have videoed my handy work . Also I forgot to turn my A/C back on before leaving the house so temps and humidity skyrocketed and swung for 9 hours until I got home . The temp in the tent was 84.4 and the humidity went from 42.4 to 57.5 to 42 every three mins. Day 21 Update : SHES A PRETTY GIRL. RQS says Cereal Milk is a slightly sativa dominant hybrid but the pheno of this particular seed seems to lean more towards indica I’m not mad at it ! I’m getting more stoked to see what she can do. She still hasn’t received any additional water since day #18.