another big day for pHresh Farms 001. moving into mid-veg (week 4) with the family and all of them are now in 5-gallon pots with 70/30 coco perlite, fed on GH trio plus calmag. Calmag has been lower then ideal, grape stomper has been affected by nitrogen toxicity due to an early experiment with worm castings in the coco. leaving the coco amendments for another time, going with what I know now which is the GH trio. runtz Grape stomper and black ice gelato are older then the rest (gorilla zkittles, bubblegum, amnesia haze), and our topping efforts are bearing fruit. Will continue to optimize this juice mix for mid veg. oh yeah. we're now using our GrowGen 720W LED. intended for flower only but as this is batch 001, it deserves some luxury. Runtz Muffins, Blueberry, White Widow coming soon... will upload gd for batch 002 when they're germed and in 1-gals. we continue on this journey. happy to see these beautiful plants happy. till next week ...

She didn't care for the high dli I had goin apparently. Seems she topped herself from the light , dimmed back to a 40DLI and all is well looking. Rest of her looks nice and healthy just my mistake trying to push alil more with the co2 going for the photos In the room. But really strong smell of candy with this one right now, Skittles or Starburst I can quite place it without having the candy in my face too. Curious to see how it finishes tho, 57 days roughly from seed so she's going pretty well. Not looking for any specific number of days. She goes till It's goes basically .. Into week 8 we go !!

The first experiment I decided to do on the mother plant is a two-tiered pot. I cut the Cup and put it in a plastic plastic canister, wrapped with tape the upper tier of the pot, so that the light does not interfere with the roots, but the lower tier I left open, to nablidat for the development of the root system and show you. I also cut the four lower large vegetative leaves so that they do not interfere with the access of light to the side branches. Now the plant is 2 weeks old, it has been living in a new house for 3 days and has already adapted and taken new roots.

The ladies have almost reached 40 cm in height, so we are switching to the flowering stage. For the next two weeks, they will receive fish mix before I switch to Biobizz Bio Grow.

First setup and i think it looks pretty ok, i still need a few things but ill get them soon. Got some Organic chem dawg bagg seed that im playing with for a start so ill see if i need some changes. Follw me wile i go on this endless journey and please if you have any tips and advice, il be very happy to listen and post when i try it

First time running hydroponics. And I’ll say it’s pretty easy although running into problems with ph rising cause of not using ro water so it started getting a potassium deficiency. I think I’m prepared for next run.

Was away 18/6 allday 19/6 *Water day / Looking thirsty -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60% RH (2+-) -950ml to Biobizz Topmax, Bio heaven, and Bloom (1ml/L) biobizz grow 1ml/L 20/6 -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 21/6 - I did some defoliation/trimming and removed a couple of branches that i didnt believe in. -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 22/6 Some pistils are starting to show, they look happy, but soon thirsty. -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -60%RH (2+-) 23/6 *Water day + i denoted lower shoots and romoved a couple branches and small leafs -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -58% RH (2+-) -1050ml to Biobizz Topmax, Bio heaven (1ml/L) Bloom (2ml/L) 24/6 Removed a couple of top fan leaves that were shading some tops. It looks good an healthy -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -55%RH (2+-) 25/6 -Temp 25-27day/21-23night -53%RH (2+-)

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

1/11/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 1- I have a root almost in the water.. Yay!! Top feeding is almost done. she is looking a little sad as I work the transition Top feeding but once the roots are fully in the water she will start to take off. Ensured my PPFD is set between 250-300 it is set to: 258 1/12/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 2- I have a root in the water.... NO TOP FEED TODAY SIR!!! now that a root is touching the water and she looks stable, I am not going to topfeed, I will see how she looks tomorrow and as long as everything looks good I am going to go ahead and do a change and week 1 fill on Nutes.. I know it is a couple of days in but the same Nutes go through Week 2 and get changed at Week 3 So I should be good to go.. I will just ensure I fill to root touching the water when I change tomorrow. 1/13/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 3- Water Change Day!! I added 36 Gallons of Water to the system: Silica= .5mil/gal= 18mil CalMag= .75mil/gal = 27mil FloraMicro=3.0mil/gal = 108mil FloraGro=2.0mil/gal = 72mil FloraBloom= 2.0mil/gal = 72mil PH DOWN= 30mil Very important thing with this system is to now wait the 24 hours for the system to adjust.. Do not make any further adjustments to your PH up or Down for 24 hours to allow time for the system to balance. 1/14/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 4- Today I just adjusted the PH to ensure that it was right at 6.0 1/15/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 5- Today I Cleaned up the lower damaged leaves from the transition from top feeding to roots in the water. She looks good today. 1/16/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 6- Today I just took a picture of the beautiful lady for Log. Other than that just normal day to day operations, check the pH, check the Humidifiers and fill as necessary, check level of water in the Res. Everything looks great. onto Tomorrow!! 1/17/2024 Vegetation Week 1 Day 7- Today I filled the humidifers, checked the PH and just let her grow.. Grow baby Grow.....

Feast your eyes :) I love the purple hues developing on this plant. Getting very close to harvest, I want to say another week to ripen before I chop. Full Flush twice a week with only filtered water. Stay Blessed! 🙏👽

Me están pidiendo magnesio a tope, aparte de abonar con cal mag vía riego, también he abonado foliarmente... También he aprovechado y he añadido delta 9,... 5ml litro... Los tayos de las plantas y hojas algunas las tengo rojas, hay quien dice eso es la genética..., pero mis genéticas,no son rojas... Es falta de magnesio debido a la potencia del led... Les crea déficit de magnesio, también me pasaba con los LEDs chinos, pero la luz era rosa y no sé apreciaba ... Total que quiero indagar sobre el tema, yo creo que es carencia magnesio debido a la luz led ,la planta no da abasto,a asimilar tantos lúmenes y crea carencias... Mañana y pasado mañana abonaré foliarmente, solo con magnesio haber que pasa....

Hi 👋. This week I stopped the nutrients and I started flush. In first week of flushing I use 2ml /l of Canna Flush and then only pure water until harvest. 15 liters every flush. Buds are hard like stone 😁 and the smell is amazing. Now i know why they call it Zkittles 🍍🍓🍬🍊. Thanks for watching.peace✌️

Time challenged again so comments a a whole lot of shit talk are in the video.

Hey hey hey, welcome back, just updating this purpcouskush ! So it's awesome to see some purps coming in on the flowers, but it's really hard to get good pics of this plant so i hope you can tell. I'm actually really happy with this grow and how these gens are coming along, but I will say that this plant is HIGHLY apex dominant. So much so it's to the point where there's not (yet?) much action happening on the secondary colas , it's mostly on the main cola which is shaded by a thick canopy of fan leaves making hard to see what's going on under there. Seems like the main cola has plenty of flower nodes though and the spacing is such it's still stretching and filling out. Really interesting process seeing the color come through the base of the flowers but not really "bleeding" onto the leaves at all, staying on the buds and giving an adorable pink hue. Love this experience. Thanks @PharmaZ 🙏, really i think it's even a better growing experience growing seeds sent by another grower 🚀 .

Real easy plant to grow. A dream for LST she takes it very well and will give you a uniform plant. Some real nice looking buds with hints of purple. They are dense too. After a week curing it is a very nice indica with white ash, a relaxing strain that packs a punch. The yield is average but the buds are high quality. Autos just seem to get better each year. Next up I will be trying the new and improved Banana purple punch RF3. I also have a strawberry gorilla seed I will use. Going for 4 big XXL yielders next. I am happy with the yield in total this run but I can improve that. Final result : Gorilla Z 130gram Frostbanger 142 gram total : 272g 300 watts used = 0.91 gram per watt. Great results I recommend frostbanger to anyone it's finished in 65 to 70 days grows just like a feminised and it's very easy to train. 10/10 auto genetics.

so normal grown, i've made her some LST technique for a while and respond perfectly, nothing to complain, she wa so strong , if i do it again i'll do topping or fim for sure

Terpenes are like an invitation to travel I’d say to Brazil, on Copacabana beach, sipping a citrus and passion fruit caipirinha!🤤🤤 *Autoflowers and Fast Flower have the same terpene profiles, but with Fast Flower, the terpenes come through way more powerful💥

Bit late posting this but the pictures are from D70, with work I didn’t have time until now. They’re still filling out the room ever so slightly. The girl at the front is suffering from light stress even though she’s the shortest, I have dimmed the light above her down to 70%. Out of all the the plants she has been the most difficult to manage from the start and has the smallest root mass. The other plants seem to be handling 100% with no issues. I have to say, at this stage of the grow, they do smell nicer than Strawberry Lemonade, very sweet and perfume like, harder to grow it seems but I am looking forward to trying her in August! Thanks guys!

Start week 9 From the end of last week i feed Dolomite 9tbs per 1 gal of water to fix soil acidity(hope will help) and no fill any more nutrient. At this point seem to be all plant will ready for harvest in next 2 week. So additional nutrient should be not require on this period, just watering until harvest day. Over all bud of BCN looking good and Pineapple looking better from last week but still smaller than expect. I try to change light hrs. By 12/12(some local professional recommend i will try).