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@Louder
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VEGETATION WEEK 1 (Oct 1-7) ------------------------------------------------- We're starting the vegetation stage after about 2 weeks from open cotyledons. There's a few sets of true leaves and visible daily growth. Starting EC at 1.0 and will get to 1.2 at the end of the week. By raising the EC 0.2 per week, we'll be at 1.8-2.0 after 4-5 weeks and ready to go into bloom at high strength feeding. _______ Oct 1 • No water 🌡️- 26.9c ✅ ❄️ - 23.5c ✅ 🌧️ - 81% ✅ ☁️ - 67% ⬆️ 📈 - 0.76 ✅ 📉 - 0.67 ✅ 📊 - 0.7 ✅ ________ Oct 2 • No water • Hygrometer in other room for comparison _______________ Oct 3 (150ml) • Hygrometer in other room for comparison • 1.0 EC/6.0 pH • Added extra CFL light _________ Oct 4 • No water __________________ Oct 5 (250-300ml) Fed all pots @ 1.0 EC/6.0 pH and got a small amount of runoff from each. They were super dry because I've removed the domes permanently. Still getting some lower humidity (57%) but they seem to be happy. Shockingly, the Banana Daddy #5 is the largest plant so far. BD5 and both King's Tart are ready to be topped. ______________ Oct 6 (250ml) • Topped BD5/KT4/KT5 to 3rd node • All pots 75% dry • EC 1.0/6.1 pH 🌡️- 27.8c 🆗⬇️ ❄️ - 21.9c ✅ 🌧️ - 67% 🆗⬆️ ☁️ - 41% ❌⬆️ 📈 - 1.58 ❌⬇️ 📉 - 0.92 ❌⬇️ 📊 - 1.35 ❌⬇️ Brutal environment going on. Can't keep the humidity up and can't fit a dome on with the plants sizes. I've got 5 full 5 gallon buckets of water in a TINY area and can't get past 47%. Ambient humidity in the house is much lower now that I have to run the furnace. It was 27c outside on Wednesday and we got a high of 12c yesterday. ______________ Oct 7 (125ml) Pots are drying out super fast now, likely due to the hot and dry environment they're getting. Not sure how I'm going to water because my ph reader took a shit and I can't get it looked at until Tuesday. It's reading buffers 1.2 pH HIGHER (7.0 = 8.2) so I guess I'll have to wing it for now. So annoying.
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Start of week 4 for Space panda Shes really getting quite frosty! Also put the other pheno into flower 2 days ago or so.
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Toca cambiar las lamparas que hemos estado utilizando durante el periodo vegetativo, con un espectro lumínico más azul (entre 5000ºK y 6500ºK), por unas mixtas de 2500ºK. Más adelante las cambiaremos por las definitivas 2000ºK. Es importante decir que realizar fotos o videos bajos lamparas de floración, no ofrece un buen resultado... Así que a partir de este momento voy a utilizar un filtro corrector en las imágenes que muestro. Sigo regando cada tres días, alternando entre agua+Bio Rhizotonic+Bio Vega y riegos solo con agua. Llevo un diario de cultivo en una libreta y los principales cambios en una pizarra.
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W11.Day.1(73) As the 7th week of flowering begins, managing the scent becomes increasingly challenging—the aroma is exceptionally potent and permeates everywhere. Even my older robust ventilation systems are struggling to cope. Additionally, new white pistils have started emerging on the aging flower clusters. W11.Day.2(73) Hey fellow growers! 🌟 Just wanted to spread some positive vibes and share the latest highlights from my grow journey. Things are buzzing with excitement as my plants continue to thrive. 🌿✨ It's like discovering a whole new world – from thinking of them as Christmas trees to realizing they're more like pineapples now! 🍍🌲 The flower clusters are taking on a fascinating resemblance to miniature pineapple crowns, and it's truly a delightful surprise. Nature has its own way of keeping us in awe. 🌿🌈 Every day brings new wonders, and I'm enjoying every moment of this leafy adventure. Happy growing, everyone! 🍃💚🌿 Cheers to @chamomile 😜
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Grow report week 4: The training and the topping Hello dear growers and groweresses, it’s time for an update on my grow. My plants have completed the fourth week and have grown further. But they have also experienced some measures that I will tell you about. The training This week I continued the low-stress training (LST) and tied the plants further. The LST is a method to gently bend and tie the plants to improve the light distribution and air circulation. The goal is to keep the plants low and wide and promote more side shoots and flower heads. The topping In addition to the LST, I also applied the topping to make the plants even bushier. The topping is a method to cut off the top of the plant to interrupt the apical dominance and produce more main shoots. The goal is to branch the plant and produce more flowers. I performed the topping as follows: I watered the plants well to reduce the stress. I cut off the top of the plant above the third or fourth node to create two new shoots. I observed the plants and looked for signs of stress or shock. The topping also worked well and the plants recovered quickly. They formed two new main shoots that will later become large colas. They also put more energy into the side branches, which will also carry more flowers. The fertilization I also fertilized for the first time this week, although I actually wanted to start late with it. I used the Fish-Mix from BioBizz to give the plants more nitrogen. Fish-Mix is an organic liquid fertilizer that consists of fish parts from the North Sea and organic sugar beet extract. It stimulates the biological activity of the soil and the plant growth. The Fish-Mix did well for the plants and they showed more growth. They formed more leaves and shoots and became greener and healthier. They also absorbed more nitrogen and produced more proteins. The outlook I am very satisfied with the result of the fourth week. My plants have been well trained and topped and have shown great growth. I am very curious about the next week, where I have to activate my setup completely to give the plants their final place and pots. It will be exciting for me to see if my system works as I wished. I will continue to observe the plants and respond to their needs. I will adjust the light intensity, the fertilization and the training to achieve the best results. Thanks for stopping by and see you next week! 😊
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Start of week 5 for Kalini Asia Shes really got a perform note to her scent! And has a clear purple coming in too while new pistils are completely white. Ive been able to bend her colas a bit outwards everyday to try get better light penetration to the buds and i think its working well. What do you guys think? Still bottom feeding her everyday just water.
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Привет садоводы! Вегетация в полном разгаре я удаляю некоторые побеги, чтобы она не была слишком густой
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Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ________________________________ 📅 D70/B08 - 24/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 🍗 💼 🧠 pH is finally stable on the lower side (hopefully) 🚀 The Tent-X is on its way, I can't wait to get it.. 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D71/B09 - 25/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Put T-H Sensor of TrolMaster on the SCroG net 🧠 🚀Tent-X from TrolMaster received, I'm going to set it up tomorrow 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D72/B10 - 26/01/24 🛠️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6 🌊 Added 6L 🍗 Added Bloom A-B - CalMag - Big Bud - Bud Candy - B52 💼 Tent-X set up finished 🧠 It works perfectly and as I just see so far, from now on I'm going to experiment a new way to grow ! 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and Set-Up videos and pics ________________________________ 📅 D73/B11 - 27/01/24 🛠️ EC: 1 pH: 6 -- EC: 1 pH: 5.5 🌊 🍗 💧 Added a little of pH- 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D74/B12 - 28/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D75/B13 - 29/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video
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This is the start of week 6 of flower! She will be getting the last bit of nutrients given to her this week. This way she's got a little bit of food for the next two or three weeks. Then she can ripen up the last week or two with nothing. I'll be top dressing her with some Kashi, flower finisher, worm castings, bloom booster...
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Everything just fine. Lst and defoliation done. New fan and grow light added laat week. See ya.
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 The flowering starting good, girls have a good stretch and coming along nicely, hedgehogs are there The weather is cold here ❄️, someday was very low in the tent. 💪 Continue training, defoliation, Working on the scrog. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 2 l Water + Roots + Bloom + Zym + Sugar Royal (1 + 3 + 1 + 1 ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% - 50 cm Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 6 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Fast Buds - GG4 Sherbet FF🌲🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/gg4-sherbet-fast-flowering
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Girls are happy and doing a big stretch, some stems start to be big and hedgehogs are arrived 🦔🦔 💪 Continuing Defoliation, scrog and fight with leaves. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day And vaporise plant with water + Plagron Roots (1ml/l) 2 l Water + Roots + Bloom + Zym + Sugar Royal (1 + 3 + 1 + 1 ml/l) 2 l Water + Roots + Bloom + Zym + Sugar Royal (1 + 3 + 1 + 1 ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 33 cm Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 6 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Fast Buds - Gorilla Cookies FF🌲🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Girls are happy and doing a big stretch, some stems start to be big and hedgehogs are arrived 🦔🦔 💪 Continuing Defoliation, scrog and fight with leaves. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day And vaporise plant with water + Plagron Roots (1ml/l) 2 l Water + Roots + Bloom + Zym + Sugar Royal (1 + 3 + 1 + 1 ml/l) 2 l Water + Roots + Bloom + Zym + Sugar Royal (1 + 3 + 1 + 1 ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 33 cm Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 6 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Fast Buds - Gorilla Cookies FF🌲🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering
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Start of Week 4 ❤️ Watering 2L every 2 Days per Plant. Waiting for 10 more Days until flipping to flower. Defoliation on first day of the week. LST Bending with Bending Clips on 26.01.2024 Topped Pheno 2 as it’s growing little higher and we want an even yield. (28.01.2024)
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Its time to prepare for war. FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • Add 1/4 cup organic matter to 1 gal. of water • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 tsp Bee pollen • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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Did the heavy defoliation open up most of the bud sites Slight smell starting, Tropicana cookies is mild but semi sweet, absolutely insane colors to show this early on IMO, can’t wait for and result! B.P.P is more gassy and a stronger smell, having good trichome production on this plant
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The buds are fattening up, getting there… Some colours appeared, the pistils are turning pink and the sugar leaves got a slight orange-ish tint on the edges. The smell gets stronger, but nothing unpleasant at all. I will change the watering schedule to 4L in every 3 days