Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 27/02/2020 - Gave her 1.5l of RO water.

Wow, looking great, buds have taken shape and can start with filling up a bit. This Mars Hydro light is amazing, the buds are quite big for week 4. Cant wait to see next weeks development. The boosters name is Pro Bloom, most have new names in europe, same company, different names

Had to tear out my best looking Deep Purple because it was a male :(. So bummed 🙁 so only have one left so fingers crossed. Two of the fast buds CBD got about one week left. The other on is twice the size and about 3 weeks left. They smell very citrusy 🍋. Grow on!!

Week 9: So it feels like this could actually be week 10 as I've been flushing this one early girl....She's a beauty and I'm flawless finish flushing. Gonna go with a few more doses b4 we harvest but she's ready. My other I've been Overdriving with Nirvana, Mike's OG, Bud Candy and Bud Factor X. Going into week 9 with strong finish on these other girls. The Buds are hand ✋️ sized and I got like 8 huge branches on each plant so already thinking about what my harvest is gonna be like when done. Also thinking alot about curing and my cure set-up. So basically gonna have buds curing all through the winter. The next grow should be done by Christmas so 2024 Bud will cure through election season and I'll be ready... Day? What's a day?: So @ this point my girls are women now and I'm already on to tha next!!! Actually maybe one more over drive session for a few but just letting these ladies kindo of just hang out by the pool. Taking lights down last hour of the grow to spray with a Grease, Golden Goddess mix so when light go to 6 they can feed through the leaves. Same thing in the morning. Spray and let them go on that dimmer light for a few then back to bright. I'm like the towel boy @ a pool of lovely ladies all asking me to spray oil on their backs. I'm getting huge buds and just kind of overwhelmed by all the work. There is alot of "love/hate/labor" in growing "Top Shelf" and I'm to the point in my grow where I'm think about of all things, "More nutrients" and where I can get the best bang for my buck. Went through my B2 like huh but only a 250ml bottle. The Grease gone. I thinking that or Canna. I few other nutrients running low but not low enough to stop this next grow, The Christmas Grow. Fast Flower, not Auto but Fast Flower. Growing 420 FB's line-up!!! That's like 6 strains so excited about that. Other than that spending thinking about the clean up of my tent and the floor spacing for the next grow. Woke up and started cutting of one of my ladies. Took three huge bud limbs, cut and trimmed b4 putting them in a paper bag to dry. My fingers smell like I've been "finger banging" the ladies. Almost out of weed and closing down the whole re-up operation. It's been fun dealers but bout ta give up my spot! Sunday..middle week 9...so one of my girls was officially retired 2day. Cut her and am goinging paper bag dry. Flushed her for a week and soil was almost dry enough but could of let her sit @ least til end of week grow schedule but said fuck it My other girls had their last or next to last feeding depending on how this particular feed goes. I did a couple of different things regarding nutrients. I dosed them well in honor of the one missing. Water and fed with care making sure that this last or next to last Overdrive shot gets me extra extra large buds. Almost start of week 10: Bout ready to flush these girls and get set up for the next grow. Watching a particular plant though that is not an A/F and pretty fuck'n amazed by it's size. 4 of these would fill my tent easily but zap my nutrients so waiting to see how these girls smoke b4 deciding what direction my next grow will go. Got one plant drying though and should be ready for the jars in another 8 or nine days. They are very sticky and big so excited about the next few weeks. This whole curing thing is gonna be fun and looking to try some stuff....fruit peels in a jar and flavorful terpene's Up early to get this grow flushed and finished. Since it's the start of Week 10 going into FDC mode on all these girls and get em out of this tent and into dry mode. Really proud of my first grow and hoping to harvest and cure goes smoothly. Some of my nutrient are low but looking @ the girls seems like they took the feedings very Stargate 2023: Somewhere in between flush and dry but picked up some cardboard boxes along with 5 cases of water. 2 cases maybe to finish flush and 3 to start the Xmas grow. I got my first girl in paper bags but am switching to hang drying. Started flushing all but one. Gave her some OD but will join the rest in flush in a few more days.(needs more density). Think I'm going 3 maybe 4 more flush feedings but after that gonna give em another week b4 the deed. Experimenting with flushing b4 the cut to see how far a can take these!! What ever week what ever day: So my first girl down and drying.... I mean it looked like she was moving faster than the rest so I flushed a week and chopped. This seems rushed and it is just a bit. So by having one plant ahead of the rest F.D.C. on this gives me an opportunity to figure out how I'm gonna fdc the others. So once my bud dries will cure for about a week and test. Other girls will be still flushing. I used alot of nutrients in this 1st grow and want to make sure my buds don't taste like shit and smoke smoothly. Been spraying my girls an hour b4 lights on with Golden Godess. Ran out of Grease a week ago but still confident my plants are loving the GG. So thinking about the next grow and how to deal with this photo...this mf is gonna be a doozy so considering giving it to a fellow grower I talk with sometimes. Gonna need the space and a light cycle in unisoness with my fresh girls in this Xmas grow. A big bitch in the corner bullying my babies and stealing they light aint happening. She might have to go outdoors...(Johnny Lee Hookerish) Not really worried though cause if I put her on the stroll, she'll get chose no doubt. Next grow in less than 2 weeks so be on the look-out for a new diary. This grow is giving me so much information and style. I'm a writer and writing/documenting this grow is a form of therapy. My career is an algorithm; I'm pretty good @ my job; I genuinely love all with the exceptions of a few. What was written is coming to pass. The earth will be aight, the people on it...there was a song made back in tha day called "Self Destruction" we headed that way So mixed that song with a few Burning Spear songs followed by some E.L.T G.B.A and here we are!!!!! So I've been drying in paper bags one plant and setting up for cure. The others are in flush so have have starting cutting leave. Got all my plants nice and manicured during the flush so that i can go straight to dry but found a few stems that actually dried from the last defoliation and found a couple of branches I had cut due to being small. I crumbled a bit and put it in my blunt.😁 with some D weed that pretty good. Yeah it smokes really good and I can notice and taste the flavor in that portion smoked.....Can't wait to cure cause if i can smoke on this one plant while curing these others propper. Say 20-30 days I think my T's are gonna shine but definitely noticing the nutrient quality difference in the smoke. Awgh man I think I this is gonna change everything!!!

Morning of day 14- tops look dry but it’s just the very surface. They took a little longer than I wanted to dry out. The weather has been cold windy and rainy, not much sun lately, and we are still about a month away from our potential last frost date. Farmer’s Almanac says last frost date is May 30th or something crazy, even though the days are normally rather warm by now. I haven’t fed as of Day 14 because they are not dry enough, there is plenty of amendments in the pot, especially towards the bottom, except I will still spoon feed a little bit. I just rehydrated the tops as they were really dry at least 1-2 inches of the tops were dry, but the bottoms are still plenty wet, so with clean water in a spray bottle, I just lightly rehydrated the top a lil, so I might be feeding tomorrow for day 15, but I don’t know yet. Keeping the tent around 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and only about 25-30% RH. This helps me compensate for the lack of heat provided by the LEDs and help the plants adapt to a higher water demand. I haven’t seen the low humidity effect the seedlings, intact all the plants that grow outside in the hot bone dry climate LOVE IT! They were praising all last year. So to help keep me away from damping issues and to better prepare the little ones for the outdoors, I’m trying to match a hot and dry environment in the tent. With VPD levels way up in the red, I have yet to experience a negative impact. I have damped off enough plants in my life, it’s a lot harder for me in 60-70%RH to water the plants and get them to dry out fast enough in the tent with cold LEDs.

Day 35 and things are moving along fantastic and all the girls are very happy.I typically wouldn’t run so many different strains in one tent but Fast Buds genetics are very versatile.I can already tell these girls will have strong,amazing buds in the upcoming weeks into Christmas 🎄😊

Tan solo esperando la flora ajajsjsjs no puedo estar más conforme con la estructura que alcanzó, sin duda hasta ahora es una de las mejores cepas que eh probado

привет всем, вот еще одна неделька пролетела очень быстро, растиха выпила воды 3.5 литра воды за неделю, на этой неделе добавил PK13-14_ надеюсь продолжение роста будет хорошое... скажите свое мнение по поводу цеветов, нормальные они на этот период или нужно что то изменить

🐹I pruned them FIM a few days ago, and future outbreaks appear. I also did a slight large leaf defoliation. 👌🏻

On February 6th, I transplanted clone into a 7 gallon fabric pot. I put 70 cups of Ocean Forest in, then placed clone (still in pot), in the center of 7 gallon fabric pot, then filled the rest of the pot up with Happy Frog. Before I transplanted, I sprinkled Great White in transplant area.

These plants are growing really strong despite the minor bug problem which I refuse to address...hopefully they just go away. I replaced the last seedling 🌱 with new seed as the bugs totaled the last plant.

Hallo zusammen 🤙 Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

Haven't really been updating much as traction is low and I keep hella notes upstairs and on paper. Flowers forming, slight stretch began days ago. Looking and smelling good. May need to hook up the external RES with how massive the root system has gotten. Main stem is over an inch thick. She's drinking ALLOT and eating well. F Day19 - RES clean/change. Mixed 3gal M-4.6ml/g G-4.6ml/g B-6.6ml/g PH'd to 6.2 since it's been dropping last few days on its own and needing adjustment. F Day23- stripping day... added a goodmorning vid of the Booshberry prior to stripping it. Will update post pics/vid this afternoon.

1-16-2023 Pups are really growing pace is fast. Raised the smaller pup with a plant stand. Still on 20 light schedule More LST Was done to even out canopy everything is OK. So what you think 3''plant stand was good idea. More PK less N in the coming weeks.Warm water flush 1-16-23 to remove salt for new Nutrient solution on 1-18-23 more bloom less growth they love ❤️ Nutes.......!

Week 10 - 1/3 -1/10 1/4 - update - not sure what to do next. my feeding schedule only has 10 weeks of feed so i might flush with water for last 2 weeks until it is ready to go? **i think the deficiencies are either Maganese or something im not sure .... i think i should add some cal mag to my feed but i didnt want to go "rambo" mode just yet with this being my first grow i wanted to stick to the gameplan. going forward i might cowboy up a little more because i didnt realize that the food chart was more of a guide and then depending on what the plant tells you - you adjust appropriately... but whatever live and learn . PPMS havent really gone over 500 during the whole grow either so i think i got some room to work with.... people said they use 3ML of CalMag the entire flower stage. flower ppm should be 1000 and veg between 600 and 800 .... ill try that moving forward

Hola esta semana fue muy rápida las plantas pegaron un estirón demasiado violento y crecieron en demacía, espero que no se espiguen porque todo ha salido super bien, uso sustrato cannabiogen en otras plantas y en estas como resultado el sustrato canna me provoca gigantismo, hace que mis hojas crezcan de manera extrema, nos vemos la próxima semana

7/11 Got half in of rain last night. Glad I didn't water. Ph of rain water is very acidic. Added supports to the blueberry cheese in the 50. I just used string and went diagonal and attached to the cage. Wrote a ton but it disappeared. Anyway looking at previous diaries I was wrong about senescence. It wad the life cycle of those earwigs that did that to my plants (see other diaries). This soil mix is amazing. These plants gave only gotten like two small feeds of big bloom. I showed my commercial buddy and I'll keep it between us what was said but it made me feel really good. I'm considering either expanding the cage in one direction with some lumber I already have or moving a couple outside tge cage. That way I have more room. He said he's seen plants structurally similar reach huge heights (14f) so I'm just trying to avoid future problems. I at least need to get the trellis on. I hope poor that's food enough. Did a real nice video this morning but nothing wanted to upload and it just uploaded the same one twice. I'll try again and hopfully it will go up. If not I'll put it up tomorrow. 7/12 Dad has surgery this morning. I did a quick video and took some pictures. I need to do some rearranging with the plants and cut a pallet to fit in the back. Then I can put a vertical trellis up. Haven't decided if I'll add on to the cage, remove a couple plants or just rearrange things but I'm leaning towards the later. They will need water again and I'm wondering if I should start nutrients but everything looks so good. By this time on past diaries I'd be losing all my leaves bu now. MI think it wad part ear wigs and part to many nutes. This soil mix is taking these plants through veg. I'll probably do a feeding soon but it will be organic and it will he small like a big bloom or ancient amber. Im leaning towards not using growbig this year as my plants seem to be doing great without it. We'll see. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: Went back over and gave plants a full watering. Some were slightly drooping. I was going to add nutes but decided against it as I didn't see any deficiency. So far NO Earwigs! I comed through the plants and I did find a jpn beetle which I happily killed. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and gave it to the 11 plants so it wasn't quite a gallon a plant. I need to rearrange the plants so I have room to move around. I also need to cut another pallet and use the spaces I'm not. Trellis needs to go up. 7/13 I think I've got the watering amount down. Now just to find how often which will depend on weather. I've watered very little this year. They loved that gallon. I was going to use big bloom and kelp me/you but looking at my garden I decided not too. My buddy asked what i was addingvthings for and to wait fir what i added to do what I wanted it to do. I see no nutrient deficiencies so why add anything? I think this soil mixture will get me all tgexway through veg. I dont plan on using much in fliwer either. Definitely good genetics. I really need to cut that palley and move the 1 10gallon to the far back coener. It will open thibgs up so much better. The garden looked so beautiful this morning. Getting very aromatic. I started untangling trellis netting but had to leave. I'll update what I do. Happy growing folks UPDATE: Went back over as I had a slight intuition that I needed to check the garden. I found and killed at least 7 jpn beetles. That's what's been making holes. They tried to escape and bounced off a tarp but I got it. I went through the interiors and found two pillars. If these beetles are gonna be around I'm ordering a net. I'm also close to positive I'm going to extend my cage in the back a few feet. Things are getting unmanageable in here. My buddy said I'll be having problems soon if I don't do something. I'll document what I decide to do. 7/14 Found ONE jpn beetle in the garden this morning. I can manage those well enough. The birds help too. I check my garden multiple times a day so I manually remove many pests. However I've noticed some thrip damage on a leaf and a leafhopper damage on "A" leaf so there are "some" pests around but not enough to spray shit. A couple wasps were doing there job while I was there. Supposed to get thunder storms after three and tonight. Supposed to get over a half inch of rain tonight. I lifted the bags and decided to hold off and let mother nature take care of it as the bags weren't totally dry. Only problem I really have is space. I AM moving that 10gallon (that's the same size as some 20's) in the back. There's 27in not being used and a few feet the other way. My buddy cautioned me that I'm going to have problems since my plants are so crowded. I agree with him. I spoke with me father and we have most materials to extend my cage four feet in the back. I think that's my plan. I'll extend the structure before the stretch then I can put up the supports. We'll see how this goes. UPDATE: Went back over to check the girls as I had a feeling I ought to. When I got there I saw that a couple of the blueberry cheese were pretty light (liftng the smart pot) but the others seemed to be fine. ONE 10th planet was light like that and the purple punch in the 10 gallon was as well. Each plant thar needed it got at least a half gallon of water. I'm waiting to see if we get the thunderstorms and the half inch of rain. I watered the MASSIVE blueberry cheese in the 50 but I only gave it 1 pitcher which is like 1/4 gallon or so. Don't know why I even gave it that. Looked fine but the soil WAS pretty dry. Next year I'm giving myself way more room. I was running trying to chase these jpn beetles. This time I have the dawn and water and a measuring cup to knock them in. This ain't my first rodeo. I did notice some bright yellow streaks on a leaf edge and I'm hoping it's not septoria. I doubt it but I have an anxiety disorder and I worry. I hope I can get the cage extended sooner rather than later. It's getting hard to move in there and more importantly I can't take any more plant pathogen problems. I'm considering starting a plant doctor regimen just to be safe. 7/15 Got a bunch of rain last night. No jpn beetles in the garden and not really much damage. I did notice this (I think it's leaf hoppers) that leave those dots close together on a leaf so it appears I've got a variety of pests. I'm considering how to approach this. I mean the damage is very minimal but I don't want it to get out of hand. Another thing I need to look out for is leaf septoria or any other fungal pathogens. I believe that has been part of my problems in the past. I think that's what caused my earlier grows to drop all their leaves so quick. I think I'm being overly cautious but its very crowded in there. With my father just getting out of surgery the girls will need to wait a little bit before before I can extend the cage. I could still cut the pallet and move the 1 10gallon and that would give more room. I rearranged a LITTLE BIT so they have a little more room but I've really got to get this cage extended. UPDATE: IT Rained so hard I had to pull the car over. We hydroplanned the whole way home. After working ob my house I went to see what the damage would be like. NOT A SINGLE BREAK THAT I COULD SEE. I took a video but since the wifi here sucks I'll have to upload it tomorrow. Walking around in the cage even if I cant get it extended I think I'll be OK. It obviously will open me up to lots more issues but at the very least I can reorganize before I build on. The 10 gal purple punch would fit perfectly in the back and I have a pallet I can cut to fit it in place. Putting that one back and pulling the others forward will be much better than what I've got going on now. I'm also thinking about running an extension cord and putting fans under the canopy or at an angle to keep the wind moving. Just thinking outloud. However after that storm the girls looked as happy as I've ever seen them. All happy praying to the sun, thankful for the much needed rain. Mother nature does a pretty good job with out me messing with it. I've noticed a couple interior lowest leaves turn yellow and die like a nitrogen deficiency but everything else is fine. Also noticed a leaf that looked like a p deficiency but again, it was the VERY bottom leaf on ONE plant. Again the rest of everything looks fantastic. I'll keep an eye out for anymore nutrient deficiencies and if anyone that reads this sees some please let me know. I should've taken stills since they looked so good but I got it on video. 7/16 It POURED last night and throughout the day. TORRENTIAL rain. The branch breaking sheet rain that us outdoor growers learned to fear. My plants aren't trellised currently. I know what I need to do now. I have a pallet to put in the back corner and I'm moving the purple punch in the 10 there. And pulling others forward where there's more room. Then when I extend it (it's gotta be done this week) everything g will be in their proper place and I can just throw on a vertical trellis. I also noticed more (leafhopper) damage on a leaf. Different leaf of the same plant so I'm considering spraying something. I have a number of products but I was trying not to use them. Luckily I have these diaries so I can look back and see certain plants reactions to certain nutes or fungacide/insecticide/nutes and the doses used. I haven't been using much but if my plants will remain cramped I'm going to start the plant doctor. I'm seeing more pillar damage too but BT is super narrow so I'm thinking when I fo spray for pests I might use cap jack and be done with it. Then I can apply the BT in flower if it's necessary. I took a video but I have to wait until tomorrow to upload. I took a quick snapshot though. 7/17 Despite the torrential rain I don't have any breaks. I'm noticing more pest damage though. Another leaf on the same plant had those closely shaped round circles. I forget what pest it is but it's there. Caterpillars are there I'm sure so I may do a preclcentative spray. Just unsure what I'm going to use. I lost a COUPLE very bottom interior leaves that look like they just got used up. After this rain I think think the plants might benefit from a feeding. Probably next water after they dry out. I REALLY need that cage extended. I expressed that today and it should be done this week. I'm looking for pallets today. I have the little one that I can put in the back which will allow me to move the 10 gallon and move the other forward. That will help some but I need more room. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT A SMALL PALLET AND IT FIT PERFECT IN THE BACK ROW. I MOVED THE PURPLE PUNCH IN THE 10 GALLON ONTO IT. I SHIFTED A BUNCHVIF THINGS AROUND. I ROTATED ON BLUEBERRY CHEESE 180 DEGREES SO IT WOULD FIR BETTER. CROP ROTATION IS GOOD ANYWAY. I TOOK VIDEOS AND YOU CAN NOW SEE THE ROWS MUCH BETTER. 2 WITH 3 and 1 WITH 4. IT'S SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN IT WAS. I CAN GET AROUND ALL SIDES OF EVERY PLANT NOW. GRANTED THE LARGE 50 IN THE BACK IS GOING TO HAVE SOME TROUBLE BUT ILL JUST STAKE IT TO THE CAGE. IT WILL GROW TOWARDS THE SUN ANYWAY. IM SUPRISED I DIDN'T LOSE A BUNCH OF LEAVES AFTER THIS RAIN. MOVING THINGS AROUND AND LOOKING ON THE INTERIOR OF PLANTS I FOUND A COUPLE LEAVES THAT HAD BEEN USED UP. I REMOVED A COUPKE LEAVES THAT HAD DONE THEIR JOB. I'LL UPDATE AS I GO ALONG.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.