Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 30/11/2019 - Struggling with high humidity, change led strip color from red,green,blue to red and green. 1/12/2019 - Checked and adjusted the light distance. 2/12/2019 - Pot feels light and dry, gave her 1,5l PH 6.3 with a 1/4 of recommended Biobizz nuts, notice almost no run off. 3/12/2019 - Finally her first pistil appeared on the main stem I was starting to get worried.

Estas dos últimas semanas están creciendo notablemente y ya tocaba hacer algo. Esta segunda semana de flora tocó ir preparando la estructura para poder más adelante atar todas las ramas sin mucha dificultad. También se le añadió un tutor central para mantener la planta bién recta y aguante bién en un futuro el cogollo apical. a dia 60 diria que dejaron de crecer en altura como lo venian haciendo estos últimos dias, esta semana no llegaremos a los 20 ctms de más. Sin embargo se han ido ensanchando algo más, las ramas bajeras miden ya lo suyo. Observamos también el inicio de la formación del cogollo sin ninguna duda. con 63 dias Nº1 - 156 ctms. y la Nº4 133 ctms. de altura. de nuevo volvimos aplicar via foliar el Plant Vitaly Plus 50ml/L. por última vez.

Changed over to 300wat led

01-11-2021: Good afternoon everyone... here we are again. My Bruce Banger will be ready in a week so I thought... I can probably germinate some seeds. I still have a lot of them (thanks to zamnesia) Every now and then I also post a report on Growdiaries and since you can only enter a competition there by using only one Strain I decided to put a round of Wedding Cake. I wanted to grow this variety when I still got my seeds from seedstockers, but found it too expensive at the time. Now I had two fish vouchers from zamnesia, each one good for 5 Wedding Cake Auto seeds. I didn't really like AFs per se (although I enjoy the result every day) so I called them and asked if I couldn't get Photos instead of Autoflowers... That was no problem at all, so I now have 10 have seeds. I have not yet found a method of germination on Hydro that works well for me, so we're going to do it in the most reliable way for me... old-fashioned in Cocos plugs. I let it fill itself with acidified (PH5.9) water and then provided each plug with a seed. I now put this under a 60W purple LED lamp that I still had from my very first cultivation attempt. Once they are up (I'm guessing/hope with a week) these will go into my budget system to grow there under 480W LM301H panels for a few weeks but with only 12 hours of light. The idea is to move these to the large closet as soon as they are about 4 weeks old, but that is not necessarily a requirement because you can also remove the lamps from that loft and move them to this room. That depends a bit on the size. What I'm going to test this round is how good/bad 12/12 from seed is doing in Hydro. Since most feeding schedules with hydro assume that you only pre-grow 1 week, I thought I might as well rule out that one week. In addition, from the moment the roots emerge from under the net pots, I want to increase the EC to 1.5 fairly quickly. I like small stocky plants without having to scrog. Maybe I'll top and maybe even mainline, but that depends entirely on the development of the ladies. In any case, there will be no feeding computer for the first few weeks (a bluelab Guardian) and as growth food they are given Hy-Pro Hydro A/B with Calmag (4-4-1 ratio). I expect very low temperatures in space so it won't be a banger. I have the impression that a correct root temperature compensates to some extent. I'm still looking for a way to transport the ladies in the right way (or I have to find a way to be able to use the same net pots in both systems). But that is of later concern. Since I only have 1 pre-growth room and 1 flowering room, I will put these ladies in a kitchen cupboard for the next week. The Bruce Banger goes on Sunday and then I can put them in there. The idea is to continue breeding on 12/12 from now on. After six weeks, new seeds will always germinate and no more than 5 at a time. I now make a round with originally 15 ladies, 3 of them were left behind in such a way that I took them out (to prevent rot) with the probable cause of too little light. 5 Planting will probably yield a little less, but hey, I can't finish it otherwise. And now my friends are very happy with my clearing days but of course that is not what I grow for. In addition, it also hurts a bit to give away 3-4 ounces after so many months of work. Just a summary of the materials used for the enthusiasts.... Lighting: 3x Meiju LED Samsung LM301H 240W with Jisun Drivers. Heating: Juwel 200W aquarium heater Nutrition Growth: Hy-Pro Hydro A/B, Ata CalMag. Nutrition Bloom: Atami ATA AWA Max, Ata CalMag, Plagron Green Sensation Containers: 5x 11 liters Bato (2 liters of nutrient solution per container) 36 liter reservoir Extraction: G-Tools 400 M3 adjustable extractor and PK2601 Filter Measuring equipment: Bluelab Guardian EC/PH/Temp Meter, Ali temp/lv meter Irrigation: Pressure compensated drippers 7.6 L/H Disease Prevention: H2O2 50% Silver Stabilized

Start of week 15 5/20/25 Fed with a gallon of nutrients 5/22/25

Everything going well. Girls got their first recharge bath and loved it.

Day 71 (65 for cindy 2) - Cindy 2 and Diesel gonna to flowering stage before Cindy 1 and Critical. I will work on vegetation for 2 weeks more (maybe 3 😇) I uploaded one video with few bugs, Can you identify what bugs are? Good? Bad? 😐 Day 77 - All plants are in 8.5 l pot (Cindy 1 its in 5 l pot).

*Pre-flowers have micro trichomes upon formation, LOL. Based on my early observation, I predict that these will be frosty frosty on the trichomes. Added 20lbs of black lava rock as mulch, raising soil temp around 1 and a half degrees to 72.8F. Some nice little bud formations are creeping up already. Nice little foliar spray of some aminos to the underside of the leaf. Hard to guage or know how much the aminos help, but after reading how energy intensive it is for the plant to make them from scratch its something I feel I need to do as a habit. An EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter, one that's made for the soil, it's so useful, as it indirectly indicates soil moisture as well as salt mineral nutrient levels. Just pop your metre stick in the soil and if ec is low, then it's time to water. Once there is water to assist in the conduction of electricity, the EC" will kick back up. 0.3-1.8, if it stays low, then you know it's time to add more mineral salt ferts! While Electrical Conductivity primarily indicates the overall salt content in soil, pH provides information about the relative proportion of cations (positively charged ions) in the soil's salt capacity. High EC signifies a higher salt concentration, while pH reflects the balance of cations like calcium, magnesium, potassium, ammoniacal nitrogen, sodium, and hydrogen. Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata Sugars, classified as carbohydrates, are composed of the elements carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). They are characterized by the general formula (CH2O)n, where 'n' represents the number of carbon atoms. The most basic units of sugars, called monosaccharides, have this ratio of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. For example, glucose and fructose, both monosaccharides, have the formula C6H12O6. The reality of your typical plant. After harvest, with all water remove,d you are left with. (Ballpark) Mother-nutrients: Carbon 47%, Oxygen 43%, Hydrogen 4%. Macro-nutrients: Nitrogen 3%, Phosphorus1%, Potassium1%, Calcium1%, Magnesium0.5%, Sulfur0.5%. Micro-nutrients: All the rest combined 1% Nothing good can happen in a soil that can't breathe. The aerobic zone in soil is crucial. Microorganisms can break down sugars into their constituent atoms, though they don't typically do so completely to the individual elemental level (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen) in one step. Microorganisms utilize sugars through metabolic pathways like glycolysis and fermentation, converting them into simpler molecules like pyruvate and then potentially to other compounds like lactic acid, ethanol, or carbon dioxide, releasing energy in the process. Glycolysis: This is a central pathway where a glucose molecule (a common sugar) is broken down into two molecules of pyruvate. This process generates some ATP (energy) for the cell. Fermentation: If oxygen is limited, some microorganisms can ferment pyruvate, producing various end products like lactic acid (in lactic acid fermentation), ethanol and carbon dioxide (in alcoholic fermentation), or other organic acids. Further Breakdown: The products of glycolysis and fermentation can be further broken down through other metabolic pathways, potentially leading to the release of carbon dioxide and water, and the extraction of more energy. Not Always to Atoms: While some microorganisms can completely oxidize sugars to carbon dioxide and water, releasing all their energy, others may stop at intermediate stages, producing various organic compounds. Role of Enzymes: Microorganisms use specific enzymes to catalyze each step in these breakdown pathways. In summary, while microorganisms don't typically reduce sugars to individual atoms in one go, they break them down into simpler molecules, releasing energy and potentially forming new compounds as part of their metabolism. In conditions of high CO2 concentration, the pH of a solution or system will decrease, becoming more acidic. Conversely, low CO2 concentrations lead to an increase in pH, making the solution more alkaline or basic. This relationship is due to the chemical reactions involving CO2 and water, which produce carbonic acid and influence the concentration of hydrogen ions, ultimately determining the pH

She’s starting to really fatten up now!! The buds feel dense all ready and she’s still got another 3 and a half weeks 👊🏻 She’s mad sticky too 😆😎

Not long now! Trichomes turning milky. I would think within the next week she will be harvested.

I've been pulling the top fan leaves to stop the main stem growing any taller and repotted them into 4L pots, once they show roots I'll flip them over to flower. They've all outgrown their mutations but the apple fritter has a slight varigation.

Day 7 - Everything seems to be going ok they are all growing about the same pace! Day 8 - They are all growing pretty equal right now , extremely happy with how things are going!✌️🏼🌱 Day 11 - one plant has some twisted leaves hopefully it’s nothing serious😫 will be keeping a eye on her, other than that they all seem to be growing great! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱 Day 13 - have a few with some weird leaves & growing a little slow, other 3 are growing pretty good! Hopefully they all do alright, fingers crossed! Happy growing friends!

6/14 These are some thirsty girls. It seems the roots have filled the grow bags. The added wind makes it so that I need to stay on top of the water. I also need to spray again. When defoliating I saw some WPM on the very inside of a couple plants. I killed a few aphids on one plant. It seems if I just manually kill them it takes a while for them to repopulate. Also found a worm. I should bust out the BT but I am undecided considering I have the WPM as well. Foliar spray will probably be Dr. Zymes or lost coast plant therapy. Note LCPT seems to not do shit against aphids. Will update as the week progresses. UPDATE: Went back over after noticing strong wind. 15mph sustained wind had my plants going as sideways as possible. Luckily the vertical trellis and supports I made have stopped any major damage thus far. I decided NOT to put tarps up on the south which is where the wind is coming from. I hope I do not regret that decision. I plan to spray tonight. 6/15 Rained all night so I was unable to spray. Surprisingly no damage from all that wind. 6/16 Rained during the night and soil was still wet so didn't water this morning. I noticed markings on one of my transplanted seedlings. Found Thrips. I've never dealt with these before. I was planning on spraying BT but now I'll need to switch to something else. LCPT, Dr. Zymes, or spinosid (captain Jack's dead bug). Considering I have been dealing with PM I'll try to use something that will deal with both. I'll update as I go. I have defoliation I need to do on at least one plant. I also need to reevaluate my space and consider moving a couple plants that way it isn't to crowded. Another windy day but it's from the north west which is better as the tree line and tarps help.UPDATE Went back over and watered all plants. One plant had a slight droop which is surprising considering the two days of rain. The wind dries those grow bags out quick and it was sunny day. I watered the one that looked a "little" droopy first before applying Lost Coast Plant Therapy to the entire garden with a half gallon pressure sprayer. I hope this was a good idea. The droopy plant got treated last. We shall see tomorrow. 6/17 Everything looked great this morning. Lightly watered before feeding 2 gallons. Replaced microbe brew with kangoroots this time. Plants looked very happy. No negative results from the lost coast plant therapy. If anything they look better. My cage is getting overwhelmed. I need to remove at least two smaller plants. They are exploding in that 50gal and the tote. If I removed just those two I think it would work a lot better. I would have more room to work as well. 6/18 LCPT doesn't seem to effect aphids. I noticed a few on ONE plant and had been killing them manually. Population was only on literally a leaf or two. I think my follow up treatment will be Spinosid. It works great and hits pretty much everything. I've used it once already. Plants are incredibly healthy. Leaves were wet so it lightly rained last night. I lightly watered as the soil still seemed moist. Different size containers makes a consistent watering schedule difficult. UPDATE: Went over and watered tonight. Checked the one plant that had a few aphids for aphids and found like a dozen lady bug larvae instead! They survived the wind and had babies! These are just wild guys that are all over the place here. Couldn't find a single bug other than that lol. 6/19 I watered early this morning lightly as the soil was not totally dried out but then it started pouring. Plants looked great this morning. After the rain I'll do some defoliating and check for any remaining thrips. Later in the day we had torrential rain that knocked out my cameras. Plants look fine as you can see and all cams and motion sensors are back online. I have backups but still. 6/20 We had torrential rain but plants are fine. Watered what needed it lightly. Bags dry out fast and I've found I need to water often or some will droop. Found spiders that had killed a couple of my lady bugs. I killed what I could. Still need to defoliate and apply second application of whatever I decide.

Day 42, start of flowering week 3: they are growing nicely, had to do a lot of defoliation on each plant, except the one in the 3L pot. Day 43, I started to discover that the roots are coming out aggressively from the bottom of the pot. I did not move the ones in the back, but I guess same thing. The one in the 3L pot doesn't have this problem. Day 45: getting really excited for these guys! I'm trying to keep the temp and humidity low, and I hope I can achieve some of the purple color :P any advice on that? day46: defoliaton

Craaazyyyy weeks Craaazyyyy growth Loving it AAALLLL Ok, so, this is the 5th week. Plants started flowering during 4th. They've had massive growth (from my perspective and experience 😅😅) and started to smellll I think I was consistent on that LST. Always trying to give all the heads as much light as possible. It was a lot of work, but I still loved it. Having 2 plants makes it more fun because I need to have a diferent point of view for each one. S has been toped, and with LST I was able to have lots of heads very well positioned B is responding marvelously to bending, wich makes it hard to bend because THERE IS NO MORE ROOM TO RUN TO 😂 she is growing a lot, and there's just to much leaves to tuck... As I was saying they're different, wich I am loving I decided to defoliate them as my last stress move towards the plants. Cutted the leaves that were on the bottom and covering the top heads, and the very small, tiny, thiny side branches. I am lowering the LST to minimum. Since the heads I chose, now have space and LIGHT to grow at will, I want to not disturb them as much as I can. You can see that when I defoliated them, there was light on the soil. And just in 1 day difference, even at this point, you almost can feel them grow! I was amased, because of the stress I had caused them. Yet, look with attention, you can spot the differece. (I hope you can see it too through the screen, because it's real 😅) Look at the S. She is doing just greaaaaat. Think it was a good decision to top her. Hope it keeps growing as it is! Smell is increasing Day 30 changed the light to 24h ON. Day 31 - Heads bigger - !QUESTION! -I always water the plants simultaneously. B's vase is noticeble heavier. Cant understand why... I'm going to start checking if they need to be watered at different times. I can only imagine that the root system is different, due to its "differences outside". But really! They have suffered different stress at different times... different root system = different drainage? Food for thought Day 32 Defoliated them because I thought they were too bushy. Felt like it maybe was a mystake, later, due to some recommendations i read... Day 34 Plants seem to have reacted ok to defoliation, lets see how the next days go by Day 36 Starting to get frosty and smelly Plants seem healthy ❄️ TEMPERATURE: 22-27°C RH: 40-60% WATER PH: 6.2-6.5

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