Today starts my flush week for this beautiful wedding glue from fastbuds the gelato is budding really nice an should only have another week or two before flush time

She looks very good and healthy, hope she was gonna get a little bigger, same thing with her sister, however I like the aroma she's starting to produce both of them, let's see how they perform. Peace guys ✌️💚🌱❤️

Looking good seems happy, just been watering her

Día 9 (10/06) N/A Día 10 (11/06) N/A Día 11 (12/06) Llueve mucho. Humedad alta por aquí. Eso les favorece Día 12 (13/06) Se empiezan a desarrollar las hojas verdaderas a una buena velocidad! Todo en marcha! 💨 Día 13 (14/06) Riego ligero 100 ml sólo H20 EC 0,5 en previsión del trasplante en el día 15 de la planta Día 14 (15/06) Se nota que estamos en el día 14 desde germinación y la mayoría de las plántulas van viento en popa! Día 15 (16/06) Hoy procedemos a trasplantar a las chicas a su maceta intermedia de 6,5 litros Se prepara con 5,5 Litros (85%) de sustrato PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS+MYCORRHIZAE + 1 Litro de Insect Frass (15%) + 65 gramos de Earth Vibes Super Soil (10 g/L substrato) Se llena la maceta de sustrato con las manos (limpias) y rompiendo los trozos más gruesos, para que el sustrato esté aireado y esponjoso, sin presionar Se coloca una maceta vacía de 1L para que quede la forma perfecta de la maceta donde están las plántulas (ver fotos) Se espolvorea la parte proporcional de la probeta de microorganismos sobre el agujero de trasplante Se saca la plántula de su maceta actual (bonitas raíces 😍) y se coloca en la maceta final Se riega muy lentamente hasta percolación profunda con H2O EC 0,5 pH 6,5 Se coloca mulch (acolchado) de paja para evitar traspiración excesiva y cuidar a los microorganismos del suelo A ver como reacciona al trasplante! 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

DAY 1 - Finally, the girls are ready for bloom stage. I mixed 75 grams of biobloom manure with soil, each for a 25-liter pot. I used schwazzing technique for defoliation. I gave short flowering fertilizer for indica genetics, also i gave for sativa long flowering fertilizer in half a dose. DAY 4 - Girls began to consume nutrients very quickly.

Giorno 1 è molto bella e in completa salute, questa settimana sarà la più cruciale per la vegetativa Giorno 7 la sera viene annaffiata con 2L di acqua

This week I transplant her into her last pot ,a 6 gallon air pot, as some top grew taller ,I top them and fim them depending of the space needed to be fill with some more tighting it down but she grew strong and took everything I did flawlessly

12week Leaf started like mutating into like a claw and some leaf don't have the same amount but I think she doing good. Almost finishing week 12 buds are getting size now getting a little bit dense

I took scrog off if I need to be a able to turn and water with better access. This girl practically takes up the whole 2*2 tent

The fimming does what I wished. The single headbud, „twin‘ed“ into 3 headbuds. The fimming also stops the vegetation, but most times luckily only the node of the headbud! Then does the twinheadbuds build a roof-crown with the other nodes.

Cookie begint van start te gaan nadat ze waarschijnlijk moest wennen aan de meteen grote textielpot, bladgroei gaat nu wat sneller en de ph waarde staat mooi op 5.8, waardoor alle voeding goed kan worden opgenomen. Komaan, groeien meisje!🌱 Update 11 mei : Ze is eraan begonnen, ik zie ze steeds beter groeien nu alles in orde is na de moeilijke start💚 Ik hoop dat de bloei nog wat op zich laat wachten, dat ze toch met een redelijke grootte kan gaan bloeien👊

Developing into a nice stout indica structure.. I’ll do some dry backs on this one to build up the root zone ✌️🏼

1 plant was very ripe, 1 plant was almost perfect to harvest and the 3rd could take another 1-2 weeks...but it was end of 10th week of flower and i had to go on vacation, so i perhaps choped 1 plant abit too early....still awesome result!

Day 5 - lollipopping and removing dead fan leaves. Harvest is very close.

We've reached the end of this journey, the result was good, a very good strain to cultivate, a little sensitive at first, but then it reacted very well. The buds had a very good aroma, dense and resinous, now just wait for the drying and curing process to complete the cycle.. ✌️✌️✌️

best cannabis I ever grew and smoked. Others agree. This is a cup winner I would win with no competition. 3 months harvested, 90% consumed. Will run more genetics and future cross, backcross. Feels like energy drinks, positive, 100% youre high and lit, extreme ripped. Smell is slight citrus, this is very sweet tasting and smelling because of my methods of growing. Oozing sticky like an industrial adhesive. Daytime smoke, ripped no couchlock. For heavy daily smoker this is above your level of comprehension, good luck finishing 0.5g session. 10/10 all categories. 4 months after harvest video macro, this is what 40% looks like

Second week of flowering in the bag, and they’re all looking really healthy, even healthier than when I first threw them in the flower steady as she goes