Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Gorilla cookies Auto de FastBuds. Tiene muy buenas reseñas y pues me animé a colocar 4 plantas. Alimentamos nuestras plantas con Agrobeta. Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2 y riego en intervalos de 48h. La temperatura está entorno al 22/24 grados y la humedad anda sobre el 50%. Las plantas en si ya están bien sanas, tutore la rama principal para que no se fuese de madre, y así controlaré la altura. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Some big autos! Starting to get fat now as they pack on the weight. Starting to use powdered Koolbloom half way through the week here. 1/4 teaspoon. They are getting frosty and they are beautiful. Will add new pics tonight, these are from start of the week on Saturday.

Basically just watching her become seasoned..She will be having her last feeding this week.. She looks absolutely gorgeous if I must say so myself 😆 🤣

Strain Type: Feminized THC: 21% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 600 - 650 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 650 - 700 gr/plant Height Indoor: 80 - 140 cm Height Outdoor: 130 - 170 cm Flowering time: 9 - 10 weeks Harvest Month: Middle of October Genetic Background: Lemon Skunk x Shining Silver Haze Type: Sativa 75% Indica 25% Effect: Balanced, Clear, Stoned Climate: Short Summers Flavour: Citrus, Fruity 20/04/24 Left the seeds to germinate directly in the moist plugs at ~22°C ~80%RH, expecting to see them sprouting between monday and tuesday 🤞 23/04/24 They are already at 12 DLI ~23°C and ~80%RH, good news they look good but bad news, one sister became moldy and didn't managed to sprout, so it's five seedlings left, two of them strugeling one I had to help remove the cap and didn't opened it's cotyledons yet, and the other one looks like sprouting at a far different pace, let's see tomorrow 🤞 24/04/24 I helped two of the trapped seedlings. 27/04/24 5 of 6 seeds did it, great success! The 50L pot will end up in the little tent with 120W LED and the four 25L pot will stay in the big one with 300W LED. D7. 29/04/24 Last day of first week, they are looking good and already stepped up DLI to 18 💪

Ya estamos en proceso de formación de la flor. Se ven algunas más grandes que otras. Pero a grandes rasgos estan muy parejas. Me preocupa un poco la cercanía a la luz, dado que estoy en 15cm y cualquier estirón extra, sería una complicación. Vamos a ir viendo como se dan las cosas, pero al momento, no me puedo quejar. Las plantas se ven bien y saludables. Día 24. Se empieza a notar el engorde. Esperando a que aparezcan las hojas de azúcar, que ya se empiezan a visibilizar las primeras. Voy a ver si puedo conseguir overdrive de advanced para cuando se terminen de formar las flores. Entre tanto solamente tuve un inconveniente de pérdida de agua por una manguera que moví al atar las plantas, pero ya repuse la solución perdida y todo va encaminado. No sé si van a tardar las 6 semanas que dice el catálogo, pero cuanto mucho serán 8. Seguiré actualizando. Día 26. Las flores empiezan a yomar su forma voluminosa. Estoy en duda sobre si agregar PK la semana próxima o la otra. Quizá empiece a usarlo en el próximo depósito. No quiero tampoco sobrepasarlas y agregar el producto antes porque tengo entendido que puede ser contraproducente. De todos modos me quedan dos días para el cambio de solución, así que voy a ver cuando termine la semana. Entre tanto, ya empiezan las emociones. Día 28. Hice ina poda de hojas bien fuerte. Ya de esa forma dejo expuesto a la luz todo lo que tiene que terminar de engordar y de paso me esquivo posibles problemas de humedad. Al final voy a usar el PK de greenhouse que tengo, pero voy a subir la dosis. Mañana se viene el cambio de solución, para lo que sería la ante última semana en teoría. Vamos a ver como evoluciona, porque los cambios son muy abruptos de una semana a la otra. Y llegado el momento miraré los tricomas, como para ir haciéndome a la idea.

Today 7/30/19, day 57 and the start of week 9. I'm still continuing to alternate between days with my pesticide treatment (especially after finding that bug living on one of hulkberries fan leaf) and thrive alive green daily foliage spray as a prophylactic solution against any possible pests or mold going into these last few dog days of veg. I will flush them with distilled ph'd water for two days this weekend in preparation for flower. Then I'll start them on some "flower fuel" bloom booster on top of my secret for success flower recipe at 1/4 of the recommended strength. Outside of that still no adverse issue to report for the end of the 8th week. After my last trim, they both have responded very nicely, I was kind of worried about fat banana stalled growth. But one thing I noticed when I topped her at the 6th node, yes the main stem stopped growing but it developed many bud sites up and down every stem. Whereas hulkberry was topped at the 8th node, she has mainly focused on developing long stems and only 2 or 3 bud sites along her stems. Even though hulkberry in structure, is much bigger than fat banana and has a way bigger root system. Fat banana is bushier and has developed way more bud sites than hulkberry. I can't tell which strain will yield the most at this point only time will tell! Also, a big shout out to "J"@RQS, thank you for the excellent customer service. Another reason why Royal Queen Seeds is top 3 in breeding!!

Indian kush roots are taking off on day 12 of veg in the dwc pots under 315cmh in 1.2 tent The black hell and black apple hitchcock and the kukulikan are still dragging there feet.

3.23.25 Fastbuds LSD-25 auto #1 Germination 1st week Only watering with spring water. Going to be using foop nutrients with Humboldts secret cal/ mag and nectar for the gods ph up and down! Here we go!

Dat 1 of flush 6/1 20 gallon of water 25ml of floraflush 35ml of fishshit

The white residue is from Epsom salt foliar spray... Hydroponic buds (Banana Daddy) are getting noticeably denser than soil (Pluto Runtz)

So far so good. Will upgrade to bloomspect 1000w grow light

Day 29 Flower (Day 71) Woohoo! First day of week five of flower and an easy day at that. I just gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.2 water and took some pics. I'm still experimenting with bud photography. This time with a tripod but still no additional lights. I also need to take the pics when the lights are off as the flowers look funky under the LEDs. The right girl is slowly starting to bulk up, but the left girl is lagging. That is no wonder, though, considering that she has had much less light due to those space issues. Also, there's a huge quality difference between the lights in each tent. So I'm looking forward to comparing the bud quality that each tent will generate. Day 30 Flower (Day 72) It slipped my mind, but it's been over two weeks since I gave the girls nematodes to get rid of the gnats. As always, the nemos did their job quickly and effectively, and I haven't seen any gnats since. However, to ensure that they stayed gone, I did a second treatment today, mixed up 10 million nemos into 6 liters of water, and gave each girl half at pH 6.6. Day 31 Flower (Day 73) Chill day. I just gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water and cut some clones from her. She is deep in flower so I'll try to monster-crop her. Never tried that before but have heard that it creates some really bushy plants. As she already is bushy I'm curious to see how bushy a monster-cropped clone of her will be. She had a few low branches that I left during lollipopping for this reason and I cut four of them with a sterile razor blade, then scraped the lower part of the stem and dipped them in Clonex. They're now sitting in the window with a small LED spot to make sure that they have enough light to re-veg. Day 32 Flower (Day 74) I know that I got a new tent for my left girl only a few days ago, but I decided to upgrade to give her a bit more space. I went to my local grow store today and picked up a tent made by the same company as my main tent (UndrCovrLab). This new tent is also made specifically for my wardrobe, maximizing the available space. I went from a tiny 40x40 cm tent to a "massive" 75x45 cm tent. Still very small but almost 2x bigger. Woohoo! The left girl was squeezed into the 40x40 tent for so long that I had to use some LST to spread her out and increase light penetration now when she has some more breathing room. Speaking of lights, my small ViparSpectra is a bit underpowered now in this larger space, so now I have to consider upgrading that as well. The simplest solution would be to get another ViparSpectra, and while this little light has been performing well, it lacks UV diodes. I'll look around for options. We have gotten hit by a heatwave here, so now my tents are sweltering. The main tent reached 36 degrees C today at one point :/ Oh well, I cannot do much about it except hope that the heat doesn't stress out the girls too severely. The girls are very thirsty in this heat though, and I gave each 4.5 liters of pH 6.5 water. Day 33 Flower (Day 75) All I did today was to give the right girl 3 liters of pH 5.9 water. A bit low as I used too much pH down and then was too lazy to fix it. Day 34 Flower (Day 76) No idea what happened, but an army of fungus gnats invaded my right girl. It's only four days ago since I watered her with Nematodes against gnats, and there were no gnats at all then. A few days later, it is gnat central in my main tent (the left girl in the other tent has no gnats). It's almost like I didn't give nemos to the plant but instead gave her gnats. Weird as the nemos have always worked great in the past. Now I need to start fighting these annoying little shits. Sigh. I'll give nemos another go, and if they don't work, then I'll use some sand. Worst case scenario, I'll use Neem oil, but I really don't want to go that far. I gave each girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water, and that was it for today. Day 35 Flower (Day 77) The last day of the fifth week of flower and all is (pretty well) well in the tents. The left girl is 103 cm tall (6 cm increase in a week), and she is lagging quite a bit behind the right girl. She is healthy and quite sticky to the touch, but the flowers still have a lot of fattening up to do. I hope that will speed up now when she has a bit more room to spread out so the light can penetrate the canopy deeper. Getting a more powerful light would also help. When in doubt, add more photons! Someone who doesn't need more photons, though, is the right girl. The top bud has been burnt slightly, and there's light bleaching on a couple of colas as well as on a few fan leaves. I removed the driver from one of the lights and raised the light a bit higher. Every centimeter counts when you're running out of space! The right girl increased another 3 cm this week and is now 123 cm tall. I hope that is it as I'm now completely out of room. The gnat army in my main tent is still going strong. So strong that they have now sent out a small expeditionary force to my small tent and started to colonize the area. Sigh. I Will hit the girls in a day or two with nemos, but today I just put up some yellow sticky traps and gave the right girl 3 liters of pH 6.5 water.

It went pretty good this week (*I'm sorry because of ly work I could not take pictures this week so you have 2 videos*). I will not cut anymore branches before turn into flowering next week, normally it will be a 20 week grow from seed to budd I hope great results with this Cheese from Greenhouse Seeds Company :)

Hi everyone i just put the seed in today . I'm running it with Coco perlite and xpert nutrients will do updates in the week to keep you informed. Thank you for looking at the diary and a remember it's 420 somewhere 🌱

Starting to swell more each day...still very pleased with overall quality..

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.